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Lifter Tick [merged] Revised lifters 3rd Gen Generation 3g

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95talontsi

20+ Year Contributor
275
0
Jun 29, 2002
Princeton, NJ_Montgomery
I am fixing my valve tix by taking out the lifters or the auto valve lash adjusters. I have the valves cover off, the engine is at top dead center and I am on 3# cylinder. I got instructions off the net, now with either a tool or a standard screw driver press down on the valve and remove the rocker arm then remove the lifter. Which then I will clean out.
The question is where do I push down, The valve has the spring around is and the metal cap on top of that( forget the name of that) where do I push down with out damaging anything, I will probably have to push a bit so I do not want to damage anything. please help?
 
Even though it's nothin to worry about, I've never heard it after changing over the synthetic oil.
 
Mechanic said not the injectors... I'm going to put some sea foam engine treatment through the oil... see if that helps. Satan quoted a price to fix the lifters, replacing so many parts that don't need to be replaced for like $900 plus $400 labour, $1,300 HAHAHAHAHAHA ROFL . What a rip off.
 
One thing I did to help quiet lifter tick was when I did my oil change, along with fully synthetic oil, I bought the Pure Synthetic Lucas Oil Stabilizer. This made my car run smoother and overall sound a lot better, and the lifter tick 99% went away after my car was running for a minute or two.
 
Funny you say that, I just got back from the store buying Lucas Oil Stabilizer. It's 1litre but I just got this car... this is a dumb question, but I'm assuming the oil levels on the dip stick are the grooves in the metal (min and max)? Max is 5 quart, but I don't know what the lower level notch means... I'm close to the top, so I would have to drain oil before putting the 1 litre (canadian for 32 oz)... I don't know how to do that haha, or I could wait a while for the level to drop...
 
do a search on here on seafoam. follow those instructions.

here is what I did. I got the some seafoam. bought the 5W30 fully synthetic mobile one oil. and 5W30 cheap synthetic oil. Basically run the seafoam through you oil and through the vacum line. Might want to get 2 cans one to run through the vacum on your throttle body and one to put in your oil. Eithe way run that for a few minutes till no smoke. i then left the old filter in there drained the old oil and put the cheap 5W30 in. Ran that for a few minutes to get rid of the seafoam and then drianed it and put a new mobile1 filter on there along with the mobile1 oil.


No lifter tick so far. I can hear the injectors but thats about it. Car run a lot better too.

Give it shot and let us know if it worked.

I also along with the cheap oil put in some lucas oil stabilizer to help out the lifters right away.
 
Ah hem...Lucas Oil Stabilizer will soon make your oil look like butter/milky. I'd rather mine look like honey.
 
I just can't stress about how important the look of your oil is. :beatentodeath:
 
You could drain the oil a little bit before putting the stabilizer in but I dont reccomend it. I just did it when I did my oil change. On the bottle it says 1 quart of the stabilizer to every 4 quarts of oiil. the engine takes approximately 4.6 quarts so yeah.
 
Are the notches on the dip stick for empty to full? Theres 2 notches... so if I am at 3/4 full of oil I probably have enough room to put the extra quart of stabilizer in? Or do those notche mean something else....
 
the top notch is full the lower one is the add. When it get to the lower (second one down) I usually put 3/4 of a quart...hope that helps

p.s. v2ner is right milk is bad
 
Sup Guys,

When I start my car in the morning I hear a slight ticking noise that sounds like its coming from my valves but after a while it stops. Upon doing my research the majority of results I've received is that the noise is associated with lifter tick however none of them had a 2.4 engine. Thus my question could a 2.4 (99 GS Spyder) engine suffer from lifter tick? If so how can I fix this? Is it expensive? The ticking noise is really getting on my nerves. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
All engines with hydraulic lifters/adjusters can suffer from lifter tick. The bleed hole in the lifter can erode over time, causing it to lose oil too quickly. It can also crack, and will lose oil almost as fast as it enters. This will result in it not taking up the lash in the valve train as it should, creating slightly less (sometimes very little) lift, and the dreaded "ticking" sound.

Low oil pressure can also cause lifter tick, and is very serious problem. Check your oil pressure, be sure it is within range.

Expensive is a relative term, what may be expensive to you may not be to me.

If lifters is what you need, AutoZone, Advance, and about any other place, will have them. If you search around, there MAY be stock upgrades that you could buy. I am unsure of your engine, but I know alot of 4g63 guys put revised lifters in, and 420a guys put in PT lifters and rockers.

Changing them requires removing the camshafts. A simple task if you are mechanically adept.

Good luck with that.
 
You are right, kinda. You do not have to remove the camshaft the replace the lifters, my fault. But you cannot access them in the manner you can with the 4g63.

On the 2.4 spyder engine, the rockers are shaft mounted above the camshaft. The lash adjusters are held above the valves, within the rockers. They seem to be unavailable separately, and must be replaced with the rocker arms. This will add to the price. Remove the rocker shafts, and slide the rockers off the shaft.
 
So I was looking up information on lifter tick, seeing as that's what I believe to be the noise coming from my motor. My last car laser 1.8 did it as well, this one only seems to do it when it's cold though. Now what I was wondering is some people said they solved their problem with synthetic oil. But someone told me that if you've been using regular oil and switch to synthetic it can ruin your motor. Is this true, or a myth. Any insights or links would be appreciated.
 
myth, you can change from synthetic to regular oils any time you want. Its just not recommended on a new car because it helps prevent wearing much better than petroleum based oils.

Synthetic will actually make the tick worse in most cases. Change the oil with 4 qts with synthetic and at .25qts of regular oil or lucas.

try running 20w50 that might help also.
 
So as far as 20w50 goes, are we talking at certain times of the year? Or at all times. I heard the tick is not much of a big deal, that it can just be annoying. I can live with it, I was just wondering if I had to worry about anything with the oil. It didn't seem to have any pressure problems. I may stay away from synthetic for now, I'm not so sure yet.
 
I had bad lifter tick and I tried the 20w50 oil and the lucus oil additive and even synthetic oil and nothing helped at all. But then I just tried 15w30 mobil one synthetic with the lucas upper cylinder cleaner. The large bottle that treats 100 gallons of fuel. It's not a product that accually goes in the oil so I didn't think it would help but maybe in my case and in some other's the ticking may have been dirty valves instead of just lifters. It's $7 at autozone and it worked for me 100% by the time I went through a half tank of gas. Oh, I also have 145000 origional miles and the synthetic oil switch did not cause any leaks.
 
worst comes to worst you could always do the lifters and get a set of revised lifters. They are pretty cheap for the most part and extremely simple to do.
 
Running 20w50 will not hurt anything in cold weather unless were talking -20F or more.

If you have an high mileage engine it’s gonna have leaks- synthetic will not cause the motor to leak any more than regular oil that is another myth about synthetic. It does help clean sludge up and then in turn may cause some leaks. But running synthetic oil in a high mileage car is always good to get that extra few miles out of it. Old engines really love it because they were made for old out of date oils.

pwayzjellyroll: try running 10w30 first, I have 180k on my car and run 20w50 and it runs a little quieter than the 1030. Run synthetic in a turbo car trust me......I see so many sludge issues everyday at work it would scare you to going regular oil again. Any BMW, Audi with its 1.8T, dodge/Chrysler caravan, and Toyota corollas have major problems with sludge.

Thanks for the oil info, since it doesn't ever get extremely cold here I don't believe -20F I think I may try it. I've been using 10w30 for the winter, still have the tick, but it's occasional some days it wants to others it doesn't. I hope the 20w50 will help if not I will have to look into the revised lifters. Thanks - Alex
 
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