Altered Mental Status(1G AWD 5spd)

[CrackedDSM]

So mine is safe? Lol

For the moment.



Also: forgot to mention my rain guards came in today. I’ll install them this weekend and probably try to fix the windshield leak.

 

[Dericsh]

Sheesh.
How was your drive through Birmingham recently? I stay away from the highways/interstates in that area if possible. Luckily I live in a quite area North of Birmingham, and everything I need is nearby. You never know what you may hit or get hit by on those highways. I couldn't count how many times I've had to veer off in the emergency lane or nearly scrape a median to avoid a severe accident. Last year I watched a Dodge Challenger flip 5ish times and end up at the top of an exit ramp. While I was on the side of the highway helping a woman install her spare tire because she had a flat and no idea what to do. The driver was ejected for lack of seatbelt, but miraculously walked away. That was just another day on I-65.

We went to Birmingham a few weekends ago to see Nate Bargatze. He added much closer shows right after we bought the tix of course. I was one of the crazy ones after the show. Didn’t see my lane ending. A nice restripe of that highway might be helpful.

 

[DreamChaser7]

For the moment.

Also: forgot to mention my rain guards came in today. I’ll install them this weekend and probably try to fix the windshield leak.

One of the things that is still on my car and in good shape after 25+ years (no idea when the original owner put them on), is the plastic “ventshade” rain guards somehow.

Sorry for blowing up your thread Corey. Maybe we should add this as a lobby hangout at this point and you just start a new one? Lol. I know you don’t mind though…

 

[CrackedDSM]

Sorry for blowing up your thread Corey. Maybe we should add this as a lobby hangout at this point and you just start a new one? Lol. I know you don’t mind though…

I don’t mind it a bit. Camaraderie is just as important to my build and historical record as are the mechanical updates. Plus it eventually goes back to on topic so yeah.

Plus, I love it.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Alright, I'm invigorated and inspired. Gonna really dive headfirst into the tune this weekend. I think since everything's screwy, I'm gonna just start from scratch and jump right to speed density.

Couple things though.

1) I'm very curious what a typical DSM should have timing wise when idling. Mine is pretty solid at like 15-20 when it's idling, and I feel like that's too high. I may buy a timing light and make sure mechanical timing is set. I should've done that awhile back, I know.

2) Can't help but to wonder if my fuel pressure being lower than 43 PSI messes with deadtimes or flow ratings at all. Because the FIC 1050 sheet I found is all settings and 43.5lbs of fuel pressure. Wonder if that 2-3 PSI is making that big of a difference. May try increasing fuel pressure to 43lbs and updating global as a result.

Either way, starting from scratch is the answer. Gonna save my old settings and map though, as well as not do permanent damage to the wiring so in case it's horrible and a nightmare, I can easily switch back to MAF and struggle-snuggle with that again.


3) I honestly just wanna hear my BOV vented to atmosphere. Yeah yeah, ricer, I know. Sue me.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Alright, I'm invigorated and inspired. Gonna really dive headfirst into the tune this weekend. I think since everything's screwy, I'm gonna just start from scratch and jump right to speed density.

Couple things though.

1) I'm very curious what a typical DSM should have timing wise when idling. Mine is pretty solid at like 15-20 when it's idling, and I feel like that's too high. I may buy a timing light and make sure mechanical timing is set. I should've done that awhile back, I know.

2) Can't help but to wonder if my fuel pressure being lower than 43 PSI messes with deadtimes or flow ratings at all. Because the FIC 1050 sheet I found is all settings and 43.5lbs of fuel pressure. Wonder if that 2-3 PSI is making that big of a difference. May try increasing fuel pressure to 43lbs and updating global as a result.

Either way, starting from scratch is the answer. Gonna save my old settings and map though, as well as not do permanent damage to the wiring so in case it's horrible and a nightmare, I can easily switch back to MAF and struggle-snuggle with that again.


3) I honestly just wanna hear my BOV vented to atmosphere. Yeah yeah, ricer, I know. Sue me.

Isnt 1g fuel pressure 37 psi? Just installed my fpr last night and set it at 43 for a 2g, so came across that info numerous times. Im just getting started with fuel so feel free to school me if im wrong about it.

 

[Justin DuBois]

Isnt 1g fuel pressure 37 psi? Just installed my fpr last night and set it at 43 for a 2g, so came across that info numerous times. Im just getting started with fuel so feel free to school me if im wrong about it.

Yes - Those are the stock base pressures for stock FPR’s and Stock FP, and Stock ECU’s

When you have bigger pumps and adjustable regulators, and adjustable dead times and global fuel settings, you have some latitude to set it where you think the injectors are performing best.

I have a 6-bolt, and a 2G ECU. I use the base pressure of 43.5 to align with the ECU tables, and it works great for my injectors.

With vacuum applied, the pressure drops below targets. This is important. The operating range includes vacuum, and I generally see 37psi at idle, but this depends on how much vacuum your cam setup will provide.

Set the base pressure without the vacuum hose attached.

After that, connect the vacuum hose. You can run a boost leak test, and confirm the FP raises the fuel pressure 1:1 with the boost pressure.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Set the base pressure without the vacuum hose attached.

After that, connect the vacuum hose. You can run a boost leak test, and confirm the FP raises the fuel pressure 1:1 with the boost pressure.

The car needs to be at operating temperature without the hose attached and then set it?

 

[Justin DuBois]

Alright, I'm invigorated and inspired. Gonna really dive headfirst into the tune this weekend. I think since everything's screwy, I'm gonna just start from scratch and jump right to speed density.

Couple things though.

1) I'm very curious what a typical DSM should have timing wise when idling. Mine is pretty solid at like 15-20 when it's idling, and I feel like that's too high. I may buy a timing light and make sure mechanical timing is set. I should've done that awhile back, I know.

2) Can't help but to wonder if my fuel pressure being lower than 43 PSI messes with deadtimes or flow ratings at all. Because the FIC 1050 sheet I found is all settings and 43.5lbs of fuel pressure. Wonder if that 2-3 PSI is making that big of a difference. May try increasing fuel pressure to 43lbs and updating global as a result.

Either way, starting from scratch is the answer. Gonna save my old settings and map though, as well as not do permanent damage to the wiring so in case it's horrible and a nightmare, I can easily switch back to MAF and struggle-snuggle with that again.


3) I honestly just wanna hear my BOV vented to atmosphere. Yeah yeah, ricer, I know. Sue me.

Those timing number at idle are high, assuming your idle is 750-800 rpm. You can find the timing targets in the DA tables, and see what target you have for higher RPM idle.

IMO you should be able to achieve a ecu controlled idle not higher than 850 rpm, and a timing value that bounces around the base timing of 5deg-12deg

The car needs to be at operating temperature without the hose attached and then set it?

Yes - always set baseline at operating temps 190-212deg. If your fans are cycling on-off while idling, thats should do it.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Yes - always set baseline at operating temps 190-212deg. If your fans are cycling on-off while idling, thats should do it.

Thanks

 

[CrackedDSM]

Alright, logs for yalls enjoyment. Couple notes.

On the first log (06-14-02) is my idle log. I let the car warm up, adjusted the global to match fuel pressure/injectors, adjusted deadtimes until idle AFR was better, adjusted the BISS screw towards the end of the log until it read in the 30's(ISCPosition) and once it did, I stopped that log and saved it, starting a new one.

Second log(06-14-04) is the driving log. The first half of the log up until around 230-240ish seconds is unchanged settings wise from the first log. However on the initial pull, I saw 12.2 AFR on the wideband and got out of it around 4500. Was a little more lean than I wanted, but man the car felt great. So I cruised from there til around 230-240ish seconds, and around that mark I remembered I never zeroed out the MAFcomp sliders. So I pulled over, and zeroed them all out. Car leaned out at idle pretty severely, so I gave it more deadtime, and took away some fuel from global (like 2-3%). It idled noticeably better immediately, AFR was much more manageable, and there was no longer a lean stutter when part-throttle cruising. I felt so comfortable that I gave it WOT and revved it out to 6500(should be around the 270-280 seconds mark). Jesus CHRIST the car feels amazing. AFRs were in the mid-low 11's the whole time which I am super happy with, and it idles and cruises so smooth now.

I think I'm pretty happy with where its at, but as always feel free to rip apart the logs and me.

Another note: this car does not want to idle below where I have it set. At 850rpm its a rowdy machine. It's got BC272 cams, so I'm not sure they're dialed in at all, and could probably use some adjustment. I'm blaming my cams 100%.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

With my 272’s I noticed the richer the idle the smoother it idles. The leaner the idle the meaner and choppier it is. Take it as you will.

I have my idle set to 950 too and noticed it oscillated a bit until I made the timing at that area slightly lower and a closer/smoother transition similar like you would for a VE table.

-Daniel

 

[CrackedDSM]

With my 272’s I noticed the richer the idle the smoother it idles. The leaner the idle the meaner and choppier it is. Take it as you will.

I have my idle set to 950 too and noticed it oscillated a bit until I made the timing at that area slightly lower and a closer/smoother transition similar like you would for a VE table.

-Daniel

That's a great idea. I have noticed that more fuel makes it idle a lot smoother as far as chop goes. And I've mentioned previously that I feel like the timing is too high at idle.


Great suggestion! After the car cools down I may try lowering timing in those cells and lowering the idle and seeing if it'll cooperate more. I'm hesitant to use the sliders on mafcomp/fuel tabs though because I don't want @Stapl3 yelling at me again.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

FWIW I always save a current settings configuration to my desktop as a shortcut before I make changes. That way if I change it and it’s happy I can switch back to where I started easily and try again. Good luck

PS I’ve never used the sliders myself personally. Getting that fuel system calibrated is the key to easy tuning.

Did you convert over to SD or using the MAF still?

Also my ignition timing is non adjustable so you may want to verify you’re at 5 degrees before playing with the tune a lot

-Daniel

 

[CrackedDSM]

FWIW I always save a current settings configuration to my desktop as a shortcut before I make changes. That way if I change it and it’s happy I can switch back to where I started easily and try again. Good luck

PS I’ve never used the sliders myself personally. Getting that fuel system calibrated is the key to easy tuning.

Did you convert over to SD or using the MAF still?

-Daniel

Still on MAF. And honestly I'm pretty sure the fuel system is calibrated pretty good now. Unless someone can run through and prove otherwise, but honestly I'm not sure what more I could do to calibrate it. It's miles better now than what it was. Nothing has been touched but global and deadtimes, and I feel like it shows by how much more smooth it cruises, idles, and accelerates.

 

[99dsmer4g63]

I’m on my phone so I never can look at anyone’s logs. I’m far from a tuner that’s for damn sure anyways . Just here to share my personal experiences with a fellow dsmer.

BTW the best part about switching to SD is the cleaner bay without the MAF and the atmospheric BOV. First time I hit 24-26 psi and that greddy let loose man was I smiling . It’s the ricer hiding inside of all of us .

Once again good luck .

-Daniel

 

[CrackedDSM]

I’m on my phone so I never can look at anyone’s logs. I’m far from a tuner that’s for damn sure anyways . Just here to share my personal experiences with a fellow dsmer.

BTW the best part about switching to SD is the cleaner bay without the MAF and the atmospheric BOV. First time I hit 24-26 psi and that greddy let loose man was I smiling . It’s the ricer hiding inside of all of us .

Once again good luck .

-Daniel

I was honestly gonna switch to SD, but something told me just give the MAF another shot starting from scratch. Glad I did, because it runs so good.


Might seem stupid but I'm gonna get the MAF tune ironed out first before I try to jump to SD and have to learn all those cans of worms. Looking forward to using my cold air intake I made and venting that HKS BOV!

 

[Justin DuBois]

Still on MAF. And honestly I'm pretty sure the fuel system is calibrated pretty good now. Unless someone can run through and prove otherwise, but honestly I'm not sure what more I could do to calibrate it. It's miles better now than what it was. Nothing has been touched but global and deadtimes, and I feel like it shows by how much more smooth it cruises, idles, and accelerates.

Yeah! Awesome progress. What some people call "tuning" I call calibrating, or dialing in the base settings. You did the 1st most important thing - calibrate the fuel system so the ECU tables can do their job.

Now you can continue to tweak.

In SD mode, the calibrating takes on a whole other level, as you tweak the SD map until the AFR readings from the WB (actual) matches AFRest (a predicted calculation) When that happens, DA table target changes will have little impact the "calibration", various boost levels will still burn to your targets. You don't have to freak out every time the max boost changes, cause the table will take care to give you the right results.

The "tuning" part for me is when you start to play with the DA timing tables, and the AFR targets. These tables are really the stuff to work on after you get into SD mode and back to back runs are boring and consistent.

 

[Stapl3]

I'm hesitant to use the sliders on mafcomp/fuel tabs though because I don't want @Stapl3 yelling at me again.

Don't you dare touch those fuel sliders. And now you can touch the mafcomp sliders, except for those used during peak VE aka ~5500rpm.

I'm up north now so cannot log into my account on my laptop but was able to download your log and congratulations, you've done something 99% of DSMrs never do. You have a properly calibrated fuel system. Do not adjust the fuel regulatior or global fuel again!!

On both sides of ~5500 rpm, meaning above and below, use the mafcomp sliders to make afratioest=aemwideband. This mark of 5500rpm would be 1500/1600hz. I use MAFRaw for this. You can guilt-free do whatever is needed above and below the 1500/1600hz, sliders which again should remain at zero. This adjustment before and after will take lots of your time. Driving uphill, downhill, long stretches of x y z, 2nd gear, 3rd, 4th, etc etc. Every driving aspect ever. This is the meat of tuning.

For idle, leave the sliders alone and instead adjust deadtime only to make afratioest=aemwideband. Consider under the misc tab checking 'lock in open loop' for this. Not necessary, just my approach to it.

Youre incredibly close to a well setup dsm. Good work. Your efforts are paying off. Get this stuff right, then let's turn up the wick.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So, the sun finally started to set on this day(it was 99* before humidity, UGH), so I decided to put my rain guards on. It was easy/straightforward as far as install, but boy it turned into an ordeal.


So yeah, nothing much to say as far as install goes. It was super easy. As part of the install process it tells you to "loosen" the side mirrors and squeeze the guard in between. I had an awesome member here send me a pair of really nice condition power mirrors for a steal, and decided just to remove the old mirrors completely and install the new ones at the same time. This is where I went wrong.

So, I used the scotch-brite pad included in the kit, cleaned it up with the wipe, and peeled the double sided trim tape and attached them, then installed the "new" to me door mirror. So that's the driver's side done. Let's go to the passenger side. Sun starting to set more and losing more daylight, but while inspecting the "new" passsenger mirror, I saw what appeared to be an old dirt dauber nest or something. So, I took a screwdriver and cleaned it out. It didn't fall out like it usually did, but I shrugged and said meh, whatever.

After a few minutes of leaving the mirror on the roof while I prepped the door, I noticed there seemed to be a lot of gnats on the roof of the car and down the sides of the windows. Weird...gnats don't usually propagate outside, lemme turn on my flash light and see OH DEAR CHRIST IT'S BABY SPIDERS. HUNDREDS OF THEM. OH GOD. They're all over my tools, the roof of the car, the side of the car, and actively spreading like water rolling down the car. They're also already spinning webs connecting the tools to the roof and the mirrors to the car and the car to the carport. I'm not scared of baby spiders, but if I let these bastards escape the whole car is gonna be infested with adult spiders and then I'll have to burn it down.

So, I ran inside and put on my poker face as I grabbed my handy 2 n 1 Spider and Roach Spray (with cherry scent!), then proceeded to spray every inch of the car. The roof, the windows, inside the mirrors(both sides), inside the door jams, inside the door panels, inside every nook and cranny I could find. I emptied the can, and luckily they're so small this spray killed them immediately on contact. From this point on I continued to feel like I was being eaten alive/felt creepy crawlies all over me, but thankfully I was done. Tomorrow I'm gonna have to wipe off the car with some cleaner but my God that was an experience.

So yeah, turns out what was inside the mirror was NOT an old dirt dauber nest. It was a GOD DAMNED BABY SPIDER SAC. F-U-CK. Lol. These mirrors were inside my house...thank God I decided to install them today, or they would've spread all over the house and then I'd have had to burn the house down too.

But yeah, here's pictures of the rain guards installed. Lol.

If you've made it this far I have a bonus tip for you. If your mirrors are loose, flopping around, and generally unuseable and seem loose, check this screw on the bottom of the mirror assembly.

Just give it a little righty-tighty, and your mirror lens should tighten up. It worked great on both sets of mirrors. The new set was already tight, but I tightened them more, and my old set of mirrors are now perfect because the screws just vibrated loose. So now I have two sets of good power mirrors. Lol. But at least I have a story. What an experience...

 

[Dericsh]

Well, you win story of the day! I now have second hand heebie jeebies, thanks a lot!!

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

So, the sun finally started to set on this day(it was 99* before humidity, UGH), so I decided to put my rain guards on. It was easy/straightforward as far as install, but boy it turned into an ordeal.


So yeah, nothing much to say as far as install goes. It was super easy. As part of the install process it tells you to "loosen" the side mirrors and squeeze the guard in between. I had an awesome member here send me a pair of really nice condition power mirrors for a steal, and decided just to remove the old mirrors completely and install the new ones at the same time. This is where I went wrong.

So, I used the scotch-brite pad included in the kit, cleaned it up with the wipe, and peeled the double sided trim tape and attached them, then installed the "new" to me door mirror. So that's the driver's side done. Let's go to the passenger side. Sun starting to set more and losing more daylight, but while inspecting the "new" passsenger mirror, I saw what appeared to be an old dirt dauber nest or something. So, I took a screwdriver and cleaned it out. It didn't fall out like it usually did, but I shrugged and said meh, whatever.

After a few minutes of leaving the mirror on the roof while I prepped the door, I noticed there seemed to be a lot of gnats on the roof of the car and down the sides of the windows. Weird...gnats don't usually propagate outside, lemme turn on my flash light and see OH DEAR CHRIST IT'S BABY SPIDERS. HUNDREDS OF THEM. OH GOD. They're all over my tools, the roof of the car, the side of the car, and actively spreading like water rolling down the car. They're also already spinning webs connecting the tools to the roof and the mirrors to the car and the car to the carport. I'm not scared of baby spiders, but if I let these bastards escape the whole car is gonna be infested with adult spiders and then I'll have to burn it down.

So, I ran inside and put on my poker face as I grabbed my handy 2 n 1 Spider and Roach Spray (with cherry scent!), then proceeded to spray every inch of the car. The roof, the windows, inside the mirrors(both sides), inside the door jams, inside the door panels, inside every nook and cranny I could find. I emptied the can, and luckily they're so small this spray killed them immediately on contact. From this point on I continued to feel like I was being eaten alive/felt creepy crawlies all over me, but thankfully I was done. Tomorrow I'm gonna have to wipe off the car with some cleaner but my God that was an experience.

So yeah, turns out what was inside the mirror was NOT an old dirt dauber nest. It was a GOD DAMNED BABY SPIDER SAC. F-U-CK. Lol. These mirrors were inside my house...thank God I decided to install them today, or they would've spread all over the house and then I'd have had to burn the house down too.

But yeah, here's pictures of the rain guards installed. Lol.

View attachment 735189View attachment 735190


If you've made it this far I have a bonus tip for you. If your mirrors are loose, flopping around, and generally unuseable and seem loose, check this screw on the bottom of the mirror assembly.

View attachment 735191

Just give it a little righty-tighty, and your mirror lens should tighten up. It worked great on both sets of mirrors. The new set was already tight, but I tightened them more, and my old set of mirrors are now perfect because the screws just vibrated loose. So now I have two sets of good power mirrors. Lol. But at least I have a story. What an experience...

Reading that gave me the heebie jeebies
Glad you got em tho

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

Had a lot of catching up to do as I’ve been missing a few weeks, but plenty of progress I see!

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

I had to read that twice, and do a little research. That may be a little funny, but mostly concerning. It looks like this time of year the eggs are hatching in less than a month (2-3 weeks out in the heat and closer to a month in the A/C). Those mirrors were in my parts room for more than a month. And it seems like the eggs only hatched because you disturbed them. So mommy is somewhere in my f***ing parts room. How many other parts are a time bomb? It's time to empty that room out completely. And potentially roleplay some pest control. I've been needing to tear the room apart anyway for renovations, but have been waiting for the parts to clear out.

Yea, so all that complaining you guys like to do in terms of Florida climate... Spiders are the curse in mine. A few years ago I opened the door to an 8 inch garden spider webbed in the doorway, and I almost walked face first into it. And now apparently I sent you a ton of those f***ers, first class next day delivery . At least they all died easy. Just can't help but imagining more of that shit in my parts room.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

I had to read that twice, and do a little research. That may be a little funny, but mostly concerning. It looks like this time of year the eggs are hatching in less than a month (2-3 weeks out in the heat and closer to a month in the A/C). Those mirrors were in my parts room for more than a month. And it seems like the eggs only hatched because you disturbed them. So mommy is somewhere in my f***ing parts room. How many other parts are a time bomb? It's time to empty that room out completely. And potentially roleplay some pest control. I've been needing to tear the room apart anyway for renovations, but have been waiting for the parts to clear out.

Yea, so all that complaining you guys like to do in terms of Florida climate... Spiders are the curse in mine. A few years ago I opened the door to an 8 inch garden spider webbed in the doorway, and I almost walked face first into it. And now apparently I sent you a ton of those f***ers, first class next day delivery . At least they all died easy. Just can't help but imagining more of that shit in my parts room.

Jeebus... Ive finally found a positive reason to stay my ass in Illinois... Never thought that reason would be a tolerable insect game....