Mr PopUps
10+ Year Contributor
- 413
- 3
- Jul 10, 2009
-
Ft. Mitchell,
Kentucky
I searched, everything is almost 20 years old now. Is there a more current weight reduction thread for a 2G?
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Yea, but that doesnt help when theres a lot more technology to be had since 2004. I guess theres no list of hoods and hatches, sun roof elims etc?There was a thread that listed the weight of pretty much every component in a 2g, these items haven't changed weights over the years.
From my personal experience;Yea, but that doesnt help when theres a lot more technology to be had since 2004. I guess theres no list of hoods and hatches, sun roof elims etc?
Im looking more for a list of aftermarket goodies that can be swapped in to reduce weight, more than how much a seat weighs. Maybe that helps the suggestions more.
Cranks only vary a small amount, rods as long as they are I or H beams are light enough and even then sometimes small grams.Don't forget. Drive shaft, subframes, cranks,rods,control arms,flywheel, ac heat delete, glass, extra extra. Alot has changed since 04. If going auto add wieght .
My knife edged crank and holed crank is only a bit lighter but not by much. Winburg cranks are gun bored for even less weight and are one of the lightest.Cranks more than you think when they knifed edged, then aluminum rods . It all adds up
How did you replace the wiring??!!From my personal experience;
oem wiring = ~80lbs - I replaced it all with less than 5lbs
sunroof assembly - ~35lbs - replaced with carbonetics plug - about 4lbs
oem hood = ~45lbs - Carbon creations hood = 15lbs
I removed 18lbs from the doors while still retaining power windows
Replacing the windshield and door glass with Lexan sheds 60lbs
2g awd fuel tank is almost 100lbs with half a tank of gas
HVAC is about 40ish lbs behind the dash.
That will give you some ideas
Cabonetics also lists the weights of their pieces on their site.
Well, its autocross and track, not 1/4 mile, so i need SOME things to stay .if youre also looking to shave more weight off your shell for going racecar, you can remove all the sound detinning, all the rear seat bolt hole reinforments, some braces that arent required, etc. if youre REALLLLLLLLY trying to save as much as possible you can run half the hardware that holds stuff in too
You can see in my thread, I converted the car over to Fueltech and gutted every bit of oem wiring in the process:How did you replace the wiring??!!
Did you make your own lexan windows? Im not messing with the windshield cause i need to be able to drive the car.
Fuel tank, i guess you went fuel cell? But that would change the center of gravity...
Not giving up heat and AC.
Holy shit, thats cheap. Id rather make my own stuff, but for that price...If you want ploy windows I have a company who makes direct bolt in and good fit replacements. They are here in the UK and ship worldwide. ACW motorsport plastics are what they are called. You can save about 15+kg just on poly windows excluding front windshield.
They ship around the world and when I worked with them we were cheaper then another who made windows but theirs still had to be trimmed to suit and then painted! Oirs is much better as its made to fit perfectly and close the gap up more and pre painted ready for the window glue!Holy shit, thats cheap. Id rather make my own stuff, but for that price...