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Running a Honda radiator? [Merged 7-9] half scirocco afco smaller

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no not trying to overheat the car, but with turbo set up and intercooler pipe can not run a full sized radiator, if i could even find one 3 inches shorter then factory i could use that. I am at a loss for ideas of what to do.....
 
What intercooler kit are you running? Most people remove the A/C fan from the radiator and that solves the problem. You can always get a slim fan later if you want, but a lot of people never have problems without that fan for awhile. Is that the problem, or are you doing some kind of custom piping job that has a pipe wanting to come through the radiator and thats why you need a smaller one?
 
Snowbird-If he find what he wants he is not going to overheat the car. Our stock radiators are only about an inch thick. The radiator he will buy is much thicker, just not as long across the front end. The extra thickness will hold as much coolant as our stock radiator does. The only real difference is that the smaller one will have less surface area for air to hit. That could make it run slightly hotter. But that is easily fixed with a lower temp thermostat.
 
i ended up using a scirroco radiator in my setup as i had the same problem they have very large endtanks and it fits nicely in the area where my ac condensor used to be. it could be something to look into
 
I'm using a Honda Civic "race" radiator and the only way I could make it work (with a 10" slim-line fan) was to not run a thermostat...however, that is not the preferred method...

I ended up just getting a Scirocco rad too to replace the "race" rad but have yet to install it and see how it does...my main concern is I want to use a thermostat and the only way I see it working with what I have is to use the Scirocco rad...definitely the best rad for upgraded turbo systems....IMHO
 
Snowbird-If he find what he wants he is not going to overheat the car. Our stock radiators are only about an inch thick. The radiator he will buy is much thicker, just not as long across the front end. The extra thickness will hold as much coolant as our stock radiator does. The only real difference is that the smaller one will have less surface area for air to hit. That could make it run slightly hotter. But that is easily fixed with a lower temp thermostat.

My bad. I stand corrected, I just thought there would be obvious cooling issues. I hear you saying use a low temp thermostat, but In my opinion thats a band aid fix, and I say that with all respect, but then again these are DSM's, and I run one myself :coy:
 
Snowbird-If he find what he wants he is not going to overheat the car. Our stock radiators are only about an inch thick. The radiator he will buy is much thicker, just not as long across the front end. The extra thickness will hold as much coolant as our stock radiator does. The only real difference is that the smaller one will have less surface area for air to hit. That could make it run slightly hotter. But that is easily fixed with a lower temp thermostat.

You hit the nail on the head. But if you want the "extra" protection, buy a pusher and a puller fan together. That will make sure it doesn't heat soak. You are using a smaller radiator (surface area) which air flow will be a major factor in its cooling ability, but the nominal thickness will make up for that, allowing more coolant to be stored, allowing the heat dissipation to work properly. I had this problem before, and I think I am going to sell my full radiator and get a race/honda one. My car runs about 10 to 14 degrees higher than stock, with an OEM temp thermostat. If I put in a lower temp thermostat, it will change the flow of coolant to a lower temp. The thermostat will open up sooner once that temperature is reached. So, if you have it set too low or too high, you will get a DTC for cooling system efficiencies and what not.

If you can weld aluminum, cut the endtanks, put some DSM ones on, or custom fab it, whatever. Get your setup to be YOURS, not everyone elses.
 
My bad, I just thought there would be obvious cooling issues. I hear you saying use a low temp thermostat, but I see that as a band aid fix, and I say that with all respect.

No, its not a band aid. Thermostats are meant to open up and control the flow of coolant. In any car, the thermostat has a pellet or wax coil, something that can be melted and hardened over and over again. The reason being, once that is melted at the "temp" its called for, it will allow coolant to pass and the heat dissipation to begin. It just allows you to control at what temperature to allow the engines cooling efficiency to begin... You are on the right track...
 
I hear ya ^ I know how it works, its just not what the factory had in mind. All in all I like the idea of the smaller radiator. And with your pusher and puller fan mod, I was thinking about doing this to my slimfan, having push to kind of circulate the air. You think this might be worth a shot or would the fan just be fighting the air rushing at it?
 
So, if you have it set too low or too high, you will get a DTC for cooling system efficiencies and what not.

Not on a 1g.:sneaky:




A lower temp thermostat is NOT a band aid. Why do you think many people (myself included) use a lower temp thermostat with an otherwise stock (except fan) cooling system? To have a better system. Not necessarily to fix a problem.




Edit:

SnowBird said:
I know how it works, its just not what the factory had in mind.

The factory didn't intend for these cars to be able to run single digits in the 1/4mile either. They didn't intend to have a bigger turbo or fuel system put on etc etc. You get what I'm saying? It's called modding.
 
Finding an all aluminum race style radiator for a Honda will probably be your best bet. A thicker core will definitely make for better cooling, as long as you have good airflow. It's harder to get the air to flow through a thicker radiator, so make sure you have a really good fan (not stock or cheapo aftermarket).

A lower temp thermostat will make it take longer to overheat. But I guess it depends on what temp you consider 'overheating'. When you are at say 205 degrees, a 180 thermostat shouldn't make you run hotter (unless something is wrong with it). If you are hoping to run 180 and no higher, then yeah you should have a thermostat that is a little lower than that, like a 160. Running without a thermostat is definitely a bad idea for anything more than a temporary band aid.

I don't know if you care about this or not but I don't thing your fuel trims will get updated if you are running 180 or less degrees. If I remember right from the E931 code, the temp has to be 188 or higher.

Get an oil cooler setup (like the 90 had), that should slightly help your coolant temp.
 
I actually just used a honda race radiator. When i bought some new hoses for my car they were just barely too big for the radiator. put the hose clamps on and it was fine. Doesn't even look like the hose was too big even in person.
 

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A lower temp thermostat will make it take longer to overheat.

Not always true. That is only true when something else is not up to the task of keeping it cool(radiator).

jrohner said:
When you are at say 205 degrees, a 180 thermostat shouldn't make you run hotter (unless something is wrong with it). If you are hoping to run 180 and no higher, then yeah you should have a thermostat that is a little lower than that, like a 160. Running without a thermostat is definitely a bad idea for anything more than a temporary band aid.

This is because the thermostat rating is when the thermostat starts to open. It is not fully open until after the rated temperature. The fully open position varies with each thermostat.


jrohner said:
I don't know if you care about this or not but I don't thing your fuel trims will get updated if you are running 180 or less degrees. If I remember right from the E931 code, the temp has to be 188 or higher.

For a 1G it has to be greater than 190*. For a 2G it has to be greater than 180*. This doesn't matter for me since I run dsmlink and can change the required temperature.


jrohner said:
Get an oil cooler setup (like the 90 had), that should slightly help your coolant temp.

Agreed
 
no not trying to overheat the car, but with turbo set up and intercooler pipe can not run a full sized radiator, if i could even find one 3 inches shorter then factory i could use that. I am at a loss for ideas of what to do.....

I suggest you use something like this AFCO 80107N - AFCO Scirocco Style Drag Racing Radiators - summitracing.com


It will give you extra room since it sits on the cross member. This will give more cooling capacity over stock while still providing that extra room. And unlike the half radiator you will have a lot of surface area for the air to hit. This is the type of radiator a few well known people use like evil~eagle, Joe Bucci, and eagleclaw.
 
So I'm about to get new radiator hose's and swap my radiator fluid with 50/50 and some Water Wetter. I was going to get a stock thermostat. Can I run a 170* on a stock 1g ecu? Right now I have overheating issues and when I dont I run at 210-215 constant. So I was thinking if I had the 170* which opens 20* cooler I would be around 195-200* and still be fine without confusing the ecu.
 
So I'm about to get new radiator hose's and swap my radiator fluid with 50/50 and some Water Wetter. I was going to get a stock thermostat. Can I run a 170* on a stock 1g ecu? Right now I have overheating issues and when I dont I run at 210-215 constant. So I was thinking if I had the 170* which opens 20* cooler I would be around 195-200* and still be fine without confusing the ecu.

A 170 should be fine. You will have V3 soon just get a 160* and wait to install it.;)
 
Here ya go......

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I so wanted a smaller rad. but i guess ill just have to stick whith my koyo for now.
Are you gona run a single stock fan on that?
Or are you gona use some kind of aftermarket slim fan?
 
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