The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support STM Tuned
Please Support STM Tuned

Street Build Resurrection of the Red 90 Talon

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Marty, on a 6-bolt, where does the knock sensor bottom out when you tighten it down in the block?
Red arrow or green arrow?

Chenho knock sensor marked up with arrows.jpg
 
Marty, on a 6-bolt, where does the knock sensor bottom out when you tighten it down in the block?
Red arrow or green arrow?

View attachment 727493
I will grab a picture as soon as I get home. Give me about a half hour or so to post up.

Mine is touching the knock sensor body it appears. I could try different sensors but the threads aren't tapered threads so if it doesn't bottom out in the hole, it would be the same.
Pictures. This sensor is 15-20 ft lbs tight (not very tight at all but can't budge it by hand)
I am interested in the proper torque value so I am buying a 15/16 deep socket to cut a side out of, like a O2 sensor socket, and then be able to ACCURATELY install it to whatever its value is supposed to be (haven't looked it up yet). My Harbor Freight store has a socket for $3.99.

20240406_101631.jpg


20240406_101637.jpg


20240406_101659.jpg
 
Last edited:
Soooo......I took my sensor out and measured the depth of the hole at 19mm. Sorry it's a bit fuzzy. Hard to do one handed.
20240406_105057.jpg
20240406_105108.jpg

Then I measured the length of the sensors threads. 11.99mm, so it bottoms out on my sensor body for all to know. There are also "witness" marks on the body of the sensor, which is in the last picture.
Marty
20240406_105138.jpg
20240406_105242.jpg
 
Mine is touching the knock sensor body it appears.
Thanks for all that checking!

I am interested in the proper torque value so I am buying a 15/16 deep socket to cut a side out of, like a O2 sensor socket, and then be able to ACCURATELY install it to whatever its value is supposed to be
Good idea.

Then I measured the length of the sensors threads. 11.99mm, so it bottoms out on my sensor body for all to know. There are also "witness" marks on the body of the sensor, which is in the last picture.
The Chenho sensor is also 12mm there.
Is the sensor in your pics a Mitsu OEM?

Soooo......I took my sensor out and measured the depth of the hole at 19mm. Sorry it's a bit fuzzy. Hard to do one handed.
Sorry I've never seen this in the flesh with engine out of the car, but the face around that hole doesn't look right. It looks like as-cast. Rough as heck. It's not the kind of surface you would have something seat on. Unless that's just gunk and junk laying on the surface.

So the other possibility is that the threads in the hole start to run out just before 12mm depth. Since it's a blind hole right ? the threads won't go all the way to the bottom at 19mm, they'll end before. Could you put an M10 x 1.25 bolt in there, turned in just finger tight, and see how deep it goes in there to finger tight?
 
Okay for everyone's enjoyment (and head scratching).
Knock sensor hole is threaded all the way. I grabbed a bolt, ran it all the way in and wrapped tape around at the block level.
Here are the results, and also, I hack jobbed a $4 HF Impact Socket, just for ease of installation from now on as I seem to build a few of these.
I also tested the Chenho sensor, it's the exact same size and length.
Enjoy!

20240407_121232.jpg


20240407_114003.jpg


20240407_114014.jpg
 
Pure stock 1990 motor and how the knock sensor sits on it. Just like my other blocks.

20240407_170406.jpg
 
So many advantages to having an engine sitting around that's not in the car!
I've just now found my knock sensor. It's at 6:28 🤣
Still haven't seen it in the flesh. Just in this video.
It's hiding behind the coil pack bracket.
I shot this yesterday and today I downloaded and installed DaVinci Resolve (free version) just so I could go through it frame by frame hoping to find one good frame showing the sensor. This is it. The best frame out of 701 frames.
This is kind of like when @19Eclipse90 was helping me find my tach filter. 🙂
Left is Up in this shot.

my knock sensor hiding behind the coil pack bracket - screen shot from phone video.jpg
 
I see it :D
701 frames.......whew ROFL
 
You’re missing the ac bracket so the one closest to the drivers side does need the oem spacer if you don’t have it.

I have the spacer in question if you want it. Toss me your address and I’ll throw it your way for free.

@CrackedDSM If Marty doesn't want that spacer, I wouldn't mind having it. The spacer I have in there looks like it was sawed off of the ac bracket. I checked the faces for parallel and it's not very good. Going around the bolt hole with a micrometer, the thickness ranges from 0.317" to 0.321".
The bolt through that foot was broken. That's the only reason I even took a look. The bolt was hanging on by a whisker which went with a little "tink" when I started turning it out. Not blaming it on the bad spacer necessarily but besides not being parallel it's not even 8mm anywhere. 8mm would be 0.315".
This is how it looked in there before I turned it at all. I just put a sharpie mark on one flat and took the pic.

It doesn't have to be free.
I can make one if I have to, so no biggie if you want to hang onto it.
Thanks Marty for posting what you found with yours!

20240407 center shaft bearing broken bolt 550 x 550.JPG
 
Last edited:
@CrackedDSM If Marty doesn't want that spacer, I wouldn't mind having it. The spacer I have in there looks like it was sawed off of the ac bracket. I checked the faces for parallel and it's not very good. Going around the bolt hole with a micrometer, the thickness ranges from 0.317" to 0.321".
The bolt through that foot was broken. That's the only reason I even took a look. The bolt was hanging on by a whisker which went with a little "tink" when I started turning it out. Not blaming it on the bad spacer necessarily but besides not being parallel it's not even 8mm anywhere. 8mm would be 0.315".
This is how it looked in there before I turned it at all. I just put a sharpie mark on one flat and took the pic.

It doesn't have to be free.
I can make one if I have to, so no biggie if you want to hang onto it.
Thanks Marty for posting what you found with yours!

View attachment 728539


I just saw your PM. No idea how I missed it.

Let me find it, if I do I’ll just throw it in an envelope for free. It’s cheap enough to ship.
 
🙂
Ok. That might work. USPS says a letter can be up to 1/2" thick.
I'll PM my address to you in that same PM.
1/4" max thickness for letter rates, just FYI. ;)
 
1/4" max thickness for letter rates, just FYI. ;)
Ok, I think they also don't like a thick hard lumpy thing in an ordinary envelope. Their sorting machines you know.
I'd worry about a hard lumpy metal object just sort of breaking out of the envelope and being lost forever, even if they accepted it.
I don't mind paying for some better type of packaging and shipping.
The way I would do it is kind of a pain for the sender though. I'd be starting here with the USPS Send Mail and Packages page. Then from there I'd go to the Order Free Supplies page and the Calculate a Price page. A Flat Rate Small Box or a Flat Rate Padded Envelope seem like the most suitable to me.
 
Grab any padded envelope. Cut a PC of cardboard big enuf to fold over the spacer and fit inside of the envelope. It will be processed as Non-Machineable so it will ship as a Ground Advantage (replaced 1st class) package and should have a tracking number. Put a shipping label INSIDE of the package also, just in case it would open up. Tape the bushing to the cardboard inside and fold it over on itself then tape the cardboard to hold it closed.
It should run $5.50-$7.50 + your envelope.
I do this for my customers all the time at my Post Office. :thumb:
Just a tip from 34 years of "practice". I'm retiring this year so I'll have more time for my cars and ME. :cool:
Marty
 
Grab any padded envelope. Cut a PC of cardboard big enuf to fold over the spacer and fit inside of the envelope. It will be processed as Non-Machineable so it will ship as a Ground Advantage (replaced 1st class) package and should have a tracking number. Put a shipping label INSIDE of the package also, just in case it would open up. Tape the bushing to the cardboard inside and fold it over on itself then tape the cardboard to hold it closed.
It should run $5.50-$7.50 + your envelope.
I do this for my customers all the time at my Post Office. :thumb:
Just a tip from 34 years of "practice". I'm retiring this year so I'll have more time for my cars and ME. :cool:
Marty
Hmm, Ground Advantage. When I look at that, it looks like you either have to take it to a PO for them to weigh and label it. Or you can use Click-n-Ship to do all that stuff at home and then take it to a PO and drop it into the packages hopper? Either way you gotta go to a PO right?
Isn't that still going to cost $5?
The smallest Priority Mail Flat Rate Box also costs $5:

priority mail small flat rate box rate is $5.PNG
 
Last edited:
Yes you would. Click N Ship should allow a label to be printed. Guess the weight at under 8 oz and send it. It should have a tracking number also.
You can also put in for a package pickup by your mail carrier. I get them and our carrier picks them up on her route.
 
Priority Mail starts at $9.85 for a envelope, $10.40 for the Small FR Box.
I gave you guys the best rate you can get, just like I do my customers. :thumb:
If you do it from home, I believe you get a discount but I've never used it myself. Just the services I offer all of my people at my window.
 
Priority Mail starts at $9.85 for a envelope, $10.40 for the Small FR Box.
I gave you guys the best rate you can get, just like I do my customers. :thumb:
If you do it from home, I believe you get a discount but I've never used it myself. Just the services I offer all of my people at my window.
Ok I see $10.40 when I start from here and then pick "View Flat Rate Boxes". Phew.
What's that other page I found where it shows $4.95? Is that for some kind of business accounts or something?
 
I don't use the public side so I can't honestly say. Sorry. Maybe media mail rate, but that can only be a book or some form of media only. Just trying to be helpful :)
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top