which spark plugs? turbo g4cp on a 1g eclipse

[racepak]

Hello everyone.
I have a Hyundai Sonata stock 1G g4cp on a 1g Eclipse with a ecumaster black with VW R8 ignition coils. Turbo is a Turbonetics 50 trim .63 ex that I'm gonna boost to about 10psi. Which spark plugs do i need?

Sorry if it might seem like a dumb q but I'm a Honda\VW guy. I assumed the 1g 4g63 used BKR6-7-8's like us, but after searching I see I'm suppose to use NGK BPR's?

Can anyone please tell me which ones are preferred. BPR's orBKR's or something else?
Thanks alottttttttt

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

NGK br7es (non protruding tip) would be the plug you want to go with. Br6es is the original plug and at that low of boost from that small of a turbo you’d probably be fine, but the 7 wouldn’t hurt and would be my go to in that case.

Edit: in 19 years of doing this I’ve never heard of the bkr plugs being used in our application.

 

[curt-s]

Br6es for 10psi is fine. As @Spleen8urLSX mentioned, it's the factory plug and stock was more boost than you're running (now...)
The slightly hotter nature may help keep it clean of carbon easier due to the more obstructive heat dissipation path but br7es will generally do just fine too.

If you're doing more frequent boosting without cooldowns inbetween, go with a 7. For a street cruiser spending most of its time in vacuum and under 10psi, go with 6.

You can always go 7 later if you're thinking your tip heat is causing detonation. Plugs are pretty cheap still.

 

[racepak]

thanks alot guys!

sorry for adding to the question, i 1000% trust everyone here.
but. the rock auto catalog says i need bpr6es and after looking at ngk's website both bpr6\br6 plugs are the not the same
do you use br's and not bpr's are due to piston to combustion chamber clearances? milling etc? y not use the bprs?

also i searched and i cant seem to find a iridium version of the BR6es no BR6EIX only BR7EIX anyone ever seen a BR6EIX?

BR6ES​

Overall Height ISO 50.5mm (1.98").​

Projection Non-Projected​

​

BPR6ES​

Overall Height JIS 53mm (2.086").​

Projection Projected​

​

 

[curt-s]

Neither plug will get anywhere near the top of the piston.

Projected plugs will position the spark closer to the middle of the combustion chamber, albeit by millimeters, but in certain cases this can help. In turbo applications, the air and fuel density is much greater than NA so the flame velocity is faster anyway. This is why we drop timing so fast when we get into boost -- less time needed to (attempt to) harness maximum cylinder pressure. A projected tip won't really help thaaaat much there, if at all.

A projected tip exposes more of the insulator to the combustion process and, a such, will allow more heat to reach it. This can help burn off deposits. However, it lengthens the path heat must go to get to the cylinder head, which retards the ability of the plug to cool. It's all within the same heat range, however.

There are likely a few other plusses and minuses, but those stand out the most to me personally.

Basically you use whichever one provides you the best spark and least detonation for your particular setup. There is no one cure-all plug. You may end up trying a few.

Me, this year (should I get my car back together by summer), I will be trying out BPR7ES just to see how they work with the 68HTAv3. I've been running BR7ES for years with no complaints but figured I'm curious to see if it makes any improvements, even if minor.

 

[racepak]

Neither plug will get anywhere near the top of the piston.

Projected plugs will position the spark closer to the middle of the combustion chamber, albeit by millimeters, but in certain cases this can help. In turbo applications, the air and fuel density is much greater than NA so the flame velocity is faster anyway. This is why we drop timing so fast when we get into boost -- less time needed to (attempt to) harness maximum cylinder pressure. A projected tip won't really help thaaaat much there, if at all.

A projected tip exposes more of the insulator to the combustion process and, a such, will allow more heat to reach it. This can help burn off deposits. However, it lengthens the path heat must go to get to the cylinder head, which retards the ability of the plug to cool. It's all within the same heat range, however.

There are likely a few other plusses and minuses, but those stand out the most to me personally.

Basically you use whichever one provides you the best spark and least detonation for your particular setup. There is no one cure-all plug. You may end up trying a few.

Me, this year (should I get my car back together by summer), I will be trying out BPR7ES just to see how they work with the 68HTAv3. I've been running BR7ES for years with no complaints but figured I'm curious to see if it makes any improvements, even if minor.

thanks alot for the long reply, i assumed i could use the bpr's since my boost is kinda low,(and it also says on rock auto catalog to use bpr6es for the turbo model.) but ill go with br7es gapped to .028 just to be safe. you guys dont use iridium NGK BR7EIX on dsms?

again thanks for the reply

 

[curt-s]

There's no measurable benefit beyond longevity and they're more expensive.. so it doesn't make sense economically. I'd sooner toss in a new set of coppers every other oil change. The 7s and 8s are well proven and cheap.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Evo guys use the iridium’s a lot, but they’re used to throwing money at their platform.

I’m with Curt and spleen though, just throw some coppers in there and change them as needed. They’re cheap AF enough and well proven. Use BR7ES

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

I’ve personally seen the Iridium’s fight spark blow out on the dyno and stretch the stock ignition just a touch further, however just because I’ve seen it doesn’t make me agree with it. To me that’s bandaiding the inevitable of being at the limit of the stock ignition system and a cop setup with standard copper plugs would solve the issue correctly and go even further, not to mention on that turbo at that boost level you’ll be far from spark blowout being an issue so at that point it’d just be unnecessary money with no gain to go with iridium’s.

 

[diambo4life]

Just run the regular NGK BPR6ES plugs. Those are perfect for a stock power engine.