What do you think of my dyno day!

[CanadianTSi]

I'm willing to wager you've had a boost leak the whole time.

Make a tester and pump her up to 25psi and see what happens.

 

[slightlyboosted]

I'm going to have to go with a couple of the other guys and say get some good gas and crank the boost a little, yes some 50 trim turbos have made more than 300 - 315hp at 20psi, but it depends on the housing used, turbine wheel choice, ported or not, etc. Some turbos simply like more boost. As for the log, I'm seeing where the timing dropped, but do you have anything to detect knock? Just because the computer pulls timing doesn't mean that it's knocking, or that it's lean. Could be do to heat soak, or the ignition system being weak. As far as tuning by o2 voltages, it's dicy at best as every car is a little different, and the difference between the effective range of .9 and 1.0 is very small. In any case good luck with it.

 

[red91gst]

Even when its pig rich timing is still dropping down to 10*, then back up, right around peak torque. You have a boost leak. Try turning down the boost, to 14-5psi, and log the timing just to see what happens.

Nate
SBR

 

[boostyGST]

i Just did a boost leak test and I cannot hear any leaks, the only small hissing sound I hear is up around the throttle body, and is just sounds like the air bypassing the throttle plate.

When I put pressure into the LICP, because I dont have a tester large enough to go over my 50 trim, I can only build about 5 PSI of pressure throughtout the entire intake side. Is there something wrong, or am i dong somethjing wrong.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

i Just did a boost leak test and I cannot hear any leaks, the only small hissing sound I hear is up around the throttle body, and is just sounds like the air bypassing the throttle plate.

When I put pressure into the LICP, because I dont have a tester large enough to go over my 50 trim, I can only build about 5 PSI of pressure throughtout the entire intake side. Is there something wrong, or am i dong somethjing wrong.

okay here.. go to homedepot, pick up a 2.5 or 3" rubber END CAP for blocking off pipes, it should come with a hose clamp. Then go to hte hardware seciton and pick up two LARGE diameter (2") washers with small (3/8".. or so) inner diameter. Then go to pepboys and pick up one of their metal shraeder valves. I say metal because I"ve found the locking mechanisms seal much better than using rubber ones (no RTV or sealant needed). Then go ahead and drill a hole into the endcap.. insert washer > valve > washer into the hole. voila! you have a new comp tester for your 50 trim. trust me works, I have one .

besides, you cant simply just do a boost leak test with just listening to leaks.. you need to take some soapy water to areas of suspect (ENTIRE intake side) and spray away. you will see it bubble if oyu have a leak. I'm willing to bet that your TB leak is your shaft seals. and don't believe anyone when they say it's hard, it took me an hour to replace. If you are only holding 5 psi by doing the test through the turbo, there are some serious leaks in your system. you should be able to hold 20 psi for at least 30 seconds..

goodluck.

 

[90GSXDan]

Old school AFC, MAFT, 3" GM MAF, GT35R, built 2.3L motor, Magnus intake, VP120,yada yada yada made 635 WHP. Yes.

Big difference is set ups, don't you think?

Do not speak of apples and oranges together please, it does not make you look any smarter.

MGH

Im sorry to say this, but speaking like this, will NOT help you get customers. Not to mention, I ordered an inovate wideband a week before christmas and paid extra money for next day delivery, to get it before christmas. Its not almost 2 weeks after christmas, still no response to my emails, still no wideband. Oh did I forget to mention, you had no problems taking my money?

 

[blcknspo0ln]

okay here.. go to homedepot, pick up a 2.5 or 3" rubber END CAP for blocking off pipes, it should come with a hose clamp. Then go to hte hardware seciton and pick up two LARGE diameter (2") washers with small (3/8".. or so) inner diameter. Then go to pepboys and pick up one of their metal shraeder valves. I say metal because I"ve found the locking mechanisms seal much better than using rubber ones (no RTV or sealant needed). Then go ahead and drill a hole into the endcap.. insert washer > valve > washer into the hole. voila! you have a new comp tester for your 50 trim. trust me works, I have one .

besides, you cant simply just do a boost leak test with just listening to leaks.. you need to take some soapy water to areas of suspect (ENTIRE intake side) and spray away. you will see it bubble if oyu have a leak. I'm willing to bet that your TB leak is your shaft seals. and don't believe anyone when they say it's hard, it took me an hour to replace. If you are only holding 5 psi by doing the test through the turbo, there are some serious leaks in your system. you should be able to hold 20 psi for at least 30 seconds..

goodluck.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1746901#post1746901

 

[1993TalonTsiAWD]

Oh no, someone else laying down some "facts" look out... this should get interesting. I would like to know where you get your "facts". Have you tuned a few hundred cars on the dyno? If the answer is no, you should really watch how you use the word "fact". A fact is "2+2=4" ... an opinion is "The only problem I see with the car is person that tuned it" so please make a note.

Maybe you have some type of fancy degree that you know all the facts?

I know, I know.... you teach EFI classes at night at your local Wyotech....

No, no.... you watch Horsepower TV!

See, these are my opinions of you, but not "facts".

You contradicted yourself in your statement twice.



You made a statement blasting Nate about tq peak, then assulted him on what the a/f's were at the start of the tq curve. Two totally different animals.

First your worried about TQ peak, where a/f's were 11.6-11.8:1. IMO and all the cars I have helped with on the dyno, a well tuned DSM is between 11.5-12.0:1 at Tq peak.

If you look at the a/f graph, you will see at 4k it is 13:1, at 2-3 PSI.... this is most likely not a really big issue. This is where Nate started to add fuel, which is exactly what he should be doing. At peak TQ, the a/f's were in the 11.8:1 range. IMO, perfect for this cars set up.

Now mind you, Nate is using the awesome SAFC to tune this car. How many RPM points are we working with here? For what Nate had to work with, this car was tuned well, and ran great. Just because someone was not happy with a peak WHP #, means nothing to me. People who are just concerned with peak WHP #'s should let us know up front they want a dyno queen map, and we will tune it accordingly. If there car blows up on my dyno, I will hand them a bucket and a mop however

You think you can do it better?

Our door here is always open M-F 9-8, and Saturday 12-4.

Come show us how its done!

Mike Huml

I can't beleave the owner would talk like this. I'm sick you of you guys thinking your the best. You have this ego that no one can touch you and you talk down to everyone in your posts. Now I have been a long time customer, but the way your representing you company leads me to find other options. I think it is wrong to talk down to your potential customers and can only imagine what it's like to talk with you in person. I may even send back the fmic I bought from you, because of posts like this. Insted of making it seem your GOD so to speak. Talk on the same level and you may get more respect. My local shop talks to me on a even level even if I bug them WAY too much on little things like if this will hurt my engine or whats the correct operating temp. I really wanted to go with a fmic from them, but they don't offer one so I went with my second favorite shop sbr,but now I'm not so sure telling someone if your car blows up on my dyno I will give you a mop to clean up is very professinal. Also I go to UTI (flame suit on) and the comment reguarding wyotech was not needed at all I have a few teachers that I feel are some of the best in the nation, yes there are some that are "tire kickers",but some that even help design some of the systems we still use. Anyway I really think you should step back out of your spotlight and re read your post and ask yourself how professinal it sounded. Sure your also gonna say who are you to tell me what to do? You don't even count, you have no tuning experence,etc..Sure thats true I don't have any tuning experence yet,but some day I will and can tell my view on a tunning point,right now I'm giving you a view on the business end. So take this info how you want, just remeber a company can fall just as fast as it was built.

Derek

 

[ECLIPSE4x4]

I think the bickering has gone on long enough here.

Either stop the flaming of eachother or the thread gets closed.