Plans and projects for the 09-10 offseason? (Related to DRAG Racing)

[TSimage]

The good thing about Texas (besides being financially stable..) is that the tracks are open all year round.

So are ours. No biggie really. Dave could come up to here is he wanted but I think he is referring to actual Events which wont happen until the 1st of the year.

 

[pneumo]

I'm aiming for CMI Sacramento on Jan. 10. I hope it doesn't rain!

 

[Gooberlog]

Sense the holset took a shit I'm not exactly sure..

I was going to stick with the hx40 with the bolt on housing and just get a smim and cams and take out some weight and try to make the thing hook and hope for mid to low 10's on a bolt-on turbo.. But now with some extra money I will have I might go away with the bolt-on turbo and get something with a little more kick

If i were you, I would send the turbo to justin and have him rebuild it for you and throw it back on. I'm sure by the time you get the HX-40 back on and back out to the track a couple times, your car will give you something else to spend your money on w/o upgrading. That turbo running right with some weight reduction should put you in a solid 10sec pass. I vote Holset

Um, just about everything! There's alot to pull out for sure. My talon is at 2335 or so.... and now I'm enroute to Gran Turismo Stage 4 weight reduction!

Um, seriosly Phil? Is your car really that light, or is that you being sarcastic like the bit about the GT stage 4 reduction??????

 

[kp116]

If i were you, I would send the turbo to justin and have him rebuild it for you and throw it back on. I'm sure by the time you get the HX-40 back on and back out to the track a couple times, your car will give you something else to spend your money on w/o upgrading. That turbo running right with some weight reduction should put you in a solid 10sec pass. I vote Holset

Im not sure how much there is to rebuild... I haven't taken it off yet but im sure the turbine wheel and housing are completely messed up... I would still like to see how quick/fast I can go on a bolt-on turbo because i know mid to low 10's is possible and a high 130+ trap is easily there as I sit. But the hta86 is really catching my eye and I could go really far with that turbo. I was thinking hta86 with a twin scroll set up.... But ideas are still pending....

What are you guys stripping out to get your cars weight down that low?
My car weighs 2720 with out me in it, and I can find anything else to strip, besides getting a CF hood!!

2720 with out you!?!?! Holy shit! mine is around the 3000lbs mark without me. What all have you taken out?

 

[bullettdsm]

Over winter Goals? Too many to list, .

MB

 

[TSimage]

If i were you, I would send the turbo to justin and have him rebuild it for you and throw it back on. I'm sure by the time you get the HX-40 back on and back out to the track a couple times, your car will give you something else to spend your money on w/o upgrading. That turbo running right with some weight reduction should put you in a solid 10sec pass. I vote Holset

Im not sure how much there is to rebuild... I haven't taken it off yet but im sure the turbine wheel and housing are completely messed up... I would still like to see how quick/fast I can go on a bolt-on turbo because i know mid to low 10's is possible and a high 130+ trap is easily there as I sit. But the hta86 is really catching my eye and I could go really far with that turbo. I was thinking hta86 with a twin scroll set up.... But ideas are still pending....
What are you guys stripping out to get your cars weight down that low?
My car weighs 2720 with out me in it, and I can find anything else to strip, besides getting a CF hood!!

2720 with out you!?!?! Holy shit! mine is around the 3000lbs mark without me. What all have you taken out?

3000lbs is damn near stock bro. When it comes to build projects/tips you'll find that the "other" forums like Talk and link are a little better for searching threads giving you advice since those are the forums the big wigs post on more regularly.

Check out this thread, its pretty much the ultimate weight reduction thread that has been made: Race Diet 1G GSX... - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

You can begin by stripping your interior or depending on how serious you are, gut it. That means getting rid of anything you don't "need" to operate the car. Power locks, heat core, a/c vent ducting, radio and a/c controls all your interior stereo system and wires, if you are feeling froggy convert your harness to a race harness and strip it to the bare minimum so all you have remaining are your ignition wires and the wires for your lights. Stock seats are heavy too, so try and get rid of those as well.

Next up is your hood which weighs a ton, hatch is heavy too.

Your engine bay can loose heeps of weight from the entire heating and a/C system to your power steering. various part upgrades are lighter than stock such as tubular manifolds vs stock and some of the regular sized smim. The list goes on and on bro, check out that link I gave you, it tells you the weight for every single part on your car including gutting your inner sheetmetal shell. Its one of the more important threads we have and information has been added to it for the last 4-5 years of experimenting.

Over winter Goals? Too many to list, .

MB

Not possible .

 

[talondave]

3000lbs is damn near stock bro. When it comes to build projects/tips you'll find that the "other" forums like Talk and link are a little better for searching threads giving you advice since those are the forums the big wigs post on more regularly.

Check out this thread, its pretty much the ultimate weight reduction thread that has been made: Race Diet 1G GSX... - DSM Forums: Mitsubishi Eclipse, Plymouth Laser, and Eagle Talon Forum: DSMtalk.com

You can begin by stripping your interior or depending on how serious you are, gut it. That means getting rid of anything you don't "need" to operate the car. Power locks, heat core, a/c vent ducting, radio and a/c controls all your interior stereo system and wires, if you are feeling froggy convert your harness to a race harness and strip it to the bare minimum so all you have remaining are your ignition wires and the wires for your lights. Stock seats are heavy too, so try and get rid of those as well.

Next up is your hood which weighs a ton, hatch is heavy too.

Your engine bay can loose heeps of weight from the entire heating and a/C system to your power steering. various part upgrades are lighter than stock such as tubular manifolds vs stock and some of the regular sized smim. The list goes on and on bro, check out that link I gave you, it tells you the weight for every single part on your car including gutting your inner sheetmetal shell. Its one of the more important threads we have and information has been added to it for the last 4-5 years of experimenting.



Not possible .

You got something mixed up! I didn't write that my car was 3000lbs mark!
My car weighs 2720lbs with out me in it.. I have done every thing that you listed, except the hood and rear hatch, and im getting only 2720lbs..
I guess i have to make another run over the car and see what I have left..

 

[TSimage]

Well the quotes got disoriented.. but someone said that their car was 3000lbs .

 

[kp116]

You got something mixed up! I didn't write that my car was 3000lbs mark!
My car weighs 2720lbs with out me in it.. I have done every thing that you listed, except the hood and rear hatch, and im getting only 2720lbs..
I guess i have to make another run over the car and see what I have left..

I think he was talking to me. I said my car weighs about 3000lbs without me in it....

 

[Gooberlog]

If i were you, I would send the turbo to justin and have him rebuild it for you and throw it back on. I'm sure by the time you get the HX-40 back on and back out to the track a couple times, your car will give you something else to spend your money on w/o upgrading. That turbo running right with some weight reduction should put you in a solid 10sec pass. I vote Holset

Im not sure how much there is to rebuild... I haven't taken it off yet but im sure the turbine wheel and housing are completely messed up... I would still like to see how quick/fast I can go on a bolt-on turbo because i know mid to low 10's is possible and a high 130+ trap is easily there as I sit. But the hta86 is really catching my eye and I could go really far with that turbo. I was thinking hta86 with a twin scroll set up.... But ideas are still pending....

What are you guys stripping out to get your cars weight down that low?
My car weighs 2720 with out me in it, and I can find anything else to strip, besides getting a CF hood!!

2720 with out you!?!?! Holy shit! mine is around the 3000lbs mark without me. What all have you taken out?

Well i know just for an over haul kit i heard they are like $50 +labor, but if the wheels are trashed you might need another donor turbo but JustinJMX (sp- his screen name is something like that, he's in the holeset threads a lot) is the guy to talk to. He is your best option for getting it back working on the cheap.

My car is just under 2800 pounds w/o me in it and i still have all interior panels, full dash, heat, radio, pwr windows & locks, front seats, about to get rid of power steering. Still has rear bumper and side impact bars. Front bumper is gone for FMIC.

 

[bullettdsm]

Over winter Goals? Too many to list, .

MB

Not possible .

Heh heh, yeah, you're right

Maybe this would have been better;

Over winter Goals? Too lazy to list, .

MB

Ok, let's see; the turbo 420a, putting her back together goes without saying. Then get me some more spark (already got the set-up in mind) so that I can go back to the dyno and get me some more power. Also, want to do some modification to the tranny (shift rails specifically) so that I can speed shift easier. In addition, I would like to get a different exhaust manifold.

The 420a NA, possibly a little more weight loss, an undercarriage cover, put the 65 mm TB on her and maybe dig up somebody that could cut some cams to my specs (within a reasonable price range ). Also, need to do little things like change out the tranny case (its got a crack from previous owner) and clean up.

The GSX (which will be the new daily) will need to be put on the road and tuned so that I can run it in the spring (I know I will because I ran my previous daily - 99 420a OZ with a 60mm TB and a Ram intake, . Hell I'd race big wheels if I had to ).

I am looking at designing some stuff for the 420a tranny as well as some new parts for the NA. But we will see how that goes.

 

[slowgsr]

Over the winter... Ive gotta get the built block/head in, the new intake manifold and another 4 injectors in, the q45tb and re-do some of the charge piping.. put the s368 on, fab up a 4" aluminum exhaust, get the cage in, thats really about it. Not TOO bad, considering the longblock is ready... just gotta get the head taken care of and get the car to the chassis shop.

Looking for a bit faster times next year on different gas and a built motor, as well as a turbo that is 10mm bigger.

 

[talondave]

My offseason build=

Full engine build--- (almost done)
Jmf race SMIM--- (on its way)
HX40 pro--- (just got it)
BC 288s---- (just got them)
Super tech valve springs-- (on the way)
1200cc injectors-- (already have)
three speed scatter shield-- (already have)
welded center diff-- (sending to shep soon)
Roll cage--- (around April)
Mild wire tuck--- (Working on now)


I am shooting for consistent 10s passes next year, and will go from there!!
Also might sell the BC 288s, and go with some thing else..

 

[Nate Crisman]

My offseason list:

• Swapping PTE SC5031 for a SC6152 (significant power upgrade)
• 4" garret core fmic to replace the 4" xs-power core Im using now.
• upgrade GM3bar map to a AEM 3.5bar sensor for higher boost ceiling.
• BR 3.5" SS exhaust system replacing a home-made 3.0"
• Drop 120lb more off GVR4 and 50lb off driver
• Possibly swapping to auto awd trans with basic trans mods
• Installed wet nitrous kit already, but haven't had open track day to use it yet.

2010 goals:
2900lb total weight with driver. Drive to track, knock off 10.5 ET without breaking, drive home. With 2 kid seats in the back!

 

[SBstar]

My offseason list:

• Swapping PTE SC5031 for a SC6152 (significant power upgrade)
• 4" garret core fmic to replace the 4" xs-power core Im using now.
• upgrade GM3bar map to a AEM 3.5bar sensor for higher boost ceiling.
• BR 3.5" SS exhaust system replacing a home-made 3.0"
• Drop 120lb more off GVR4 and 50lb off driver
• Possibly swapping to auto awd trans with basic trans mods
• Installed wet nitrous kit already, but haven't had open track day to use it yet.

2010 goals:
2900lb total weight with driver. Drive to track, knock off 10.5 ET without breaking, drive home. With 2 kid seats in the back!

That galant of yours looks awesome Nate, keep that bad boy going! I love the 50lb off the driver mod I might have to do a little of that modding myself.

 

[pneumo]

If you're upgrading to a 3.5" exhaust you should consider using aluminum tubing behind the downpipe. The cost difference isn't much, and it'll save nearly a ton of weight.

 

[TSimage]

I run 4" aluminum exhaust and recently ran into a guy who is running 4" SS that dumps out the bumper. My FULL aluminum exhaust that goes out the back weighs about the same as his shorty SS side exit piece .

 

[bullettdsm]

If you're upgrading to a 3.5" exhaust you should consider using aluminum tubing behind the downpipe. The cost difference isn't much, and it'll save nearly a ton of weight.

Wow ! Best weight reduction mod evah! Almost 2000 lbs saved

MB

 

[twicks69]

My offseason consists of several projects for the Eclipse.

*Add onto roll cage for 8.49-slower passes. Also, parachute/bracketry and window net/bracketry, and battery cutoff/relocation.

*Saturn 200+Amp alternator swap with relocation to backside of block.

*Redo engine wiring harness.

*Fab up a street exhaust that connects to my current V-band 3.5" setup out of 3.5" aluminum or SS and get an additional resonator in the stream. Keep the po-po's off my back when I am driving around on the street.

*Re-install my AEM Twin-Fire CDI ignition box after it returns from AEM for service. Redo wiring for quick-release connections using Deutsch connectors so that WHEN IT DOES FAIL AGAIN, I can easily remove it from the equation and reinstall my OEM ignitor into the harness.

*Upgrade front brakes from regular 12.2" Wilwood directionally vaned rotors to new set of scalloped 12.2" rotors along with media blasting the rotor hubs and re-anodizing them back to gold.

*Upgrade the rear brakes from stock w/ pads & lines to 11.75"x0.81" scalloped rotors w/ Wilwood calipers (NDL 4-piston's or Dynapro 2-piston's), new lines, pads, custom hubs and bracketry.

*Hydraulic staging brake, remove cable E-brake assembly.

*Quad fuel pump assembly (twin in-tank Walbros w/ twin in-line Walbros), individual -6AN feeds w/ -8AN return, and prepare SMIM for additional set of injectors on top of the FIC BM 1350's. Likely will be BM 1650's or ID 2200cc's.

*Make a logic controller and LED warning display for the fuel pump assembly to use 4 bi-color LED's to show fuel pump function, along with warning LED setup to function based upon pressure differential between fuel pressure and boost pressure, and get it to work with AEM EMS to enable a fuel-cut if a pump takes a crapper on me under load. Sounds easier than it will be to do, but there are options that I am researching currently to enable these functions.

*Redo water pump -20AN fitting, as the Jay Racing forward facing reusable fitting leaks around the o-ring on the plug-side.

*Redo upper radiator water neck on the thermostat assembly with a new piece, then weld on a fresh fitting to prevent weld contamination.

*Do something with the stock coolant overflow unit.

*Upgrade the breather catch can to use more ventilation points off the valve cover or oil cap (Hal's oil cap breather assembly w/ 2 ports comes to mind), and then weld in an exhaust bung for recirculation into the exhaust stream instead of the intake pipe, or in conjunction with it.

*Rebuild a couple transmissions with different components to see what works out best for the car.

*Work with Quarter Master to make my prototype clutch into a production level clutch for the rest of the community to use and bring a better design to the table that will be less likely to fail, while having greater than 900-1000TQ capacity.

*Drop rear end, and install an Evo 3 LSD, proper axle cups, upgraded bushings, and Andrew Kisner's reinforced 2G rear diff cover.

*Drop fuel tank and replace with Andrew Kisner's 2G Bolt-in fuel cell.

*Get an upgraded driver-side seat. Sparco Evo or Pro 2000 comes to mind!

*Re-torque head studs. Do leakdown and compression tests. Drop oil pan and inspect main and rod bearings.

*Fabricate up some larger IC pipes (3.0").

*Try out a larger throttle body as an upgrade from my 1G 60mm throttle body I currently run.

*Maybe dabble in a twin M15 nozzle custom Meth injection setup and one of AEM's new kick-ass meth injection flow gauges, and a 5-gallon cell in the hatch.

*Play a bit more with the current Borg Warner S400SX3 74mm turbo, then try out a Garrett GTX4202R and maybe even Bullseye Turbo's Comp 83mm turbo (Think Garrett GT4718R-sized).

*What else....update safety equipment for the expired things.

*Make lots of customer transmissions, and start dabbling in rebuilding 2G Automatic AWD transmissions, T56 transmissions and whatever else comes my way.


I think I have alot of learning to do this winter, and I cannot wait for it!

Now, lets see what I actually get accomplished....!


What is everyone else up to for goals/plans for 2009-2010 off-season?

 

[habitatguy187]

^^^^^ Wow that's a lot of stuff! Good luck man.

If all goes well I'll be starting on my car sometime this week

 

[shortydtp]

Time to start putting my Sfwd 2g gst for the 2010 season!

teaser!

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