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O2 housing and a wastegate

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Lisij77

15+ Year Contributor
32
0
Jan 23, 2006
Edmonton, Alberta_Canada
Good day everyone...
To make a question short - at what point do i need to worry about the upgrade of O2 housing and/or wastegate?
The car is 1G 1990 Talon, TSi AWD...
I am more or less decided on the mods, but those 2 are kind of foggy...
Thanks.
 
Go to the tech part of this site and look under 1g upgrade path. I wouldn't worry about a aftermarket wastegate till you decide on a bigger turbo. You could get the O2 dump and wastegate at the same time and save some money and time.
 
Bigger turbo is already decided upon. T3/T4 Garret...
I read tech article... THere are few words on O2 housing... and nothing on wastegate...
not that i am confused and worried - my timeframe for the project is undefined (reason being the distance between the car and me most of the week)... I am just checking into things "for future reference".
And since someone bothered to read, what's your take on the following upgrades:

T3/T4 garret turbo
Tubular exh. mani
3' thick FMIC
255 lph fuel pump +rewired
AFPR (recomendations?)
880 injectors (the price for 550 660 and 880 on extreme psi web site is same)
(speaking about injectors - there are plate, there are ball-and-plate. Which ones are more popular (thus i would assume better))
dsmlink
GM MAFT + translator... (read dozens of threads on that...)

Clutch (haven't looked into this one yet. Recomendations?)
Flywheel (do i really benefit from lighter flywheel? where is gain, where is loss?)
Short throw shifter...
Bigger brakes...

getting rid of A/C and ABS...
BAttery relocation
Rewire negative cables...

For now I am about to pull the engine out of the car and bolt it on the stand...
What should i look for?

And if I missed anything - correct me please...
 
Lisij77 said:
Flywheel (do i really benefit from lighter flywheel? where is gain, where is loss?)
/QUOTE]

A lighter flywheel will reduce rotating weight and thus allow your engine to put more of it's power to the wheels. Most significant improvement from lightened flywheel will be in 60 ft. times as far as I have experienced. The downside to a lightened flywheel would be slight driveability issues, although they have been negligible as far as I have seen.
 
inneedof said:
The downside to a lightened flywheel would be slight driveability issues, although they have been negligible as far as I have seen.

Issues such as?

And lets not forget the original question? do i need to worry about upgading those 2 items?
 
You would probably be fine with a Tial 40mm wg off the o2. VPE makes great o2 housings and you can get them with the dump tube re routed into the exhaust. The injector size depends on the size of your turbo, the T3/T4 doesn't really say much. For the clutch it depends on the amount of hp you plan to put out. The act 2600 or 2900 would be a nice clutch for you, just remember to get a new OEM throwout bearing and slave cyl extension rod. As for the flywheel a lighter one will help you rev up faster and gain some trap speed at the track. I as well as many others on this site all believe in the AFPR from Import Evolution, but you'll need to pick up a gauge as well.

After pulling the motor look into the cyl walls to see if there is any damage. Depending on your goal you could get by with a stock rebuild using 2g pistons on 1g rods.

Good luck :thumb:
-Adam
 
Lisij77 said:
Bigger turbo is already decided upon. T3/T4 Garret...
I read tech article... THere are few words on O2 housing... and nothing on wastegate...
not that i am confused and worried - my timeframe for the project is undefined (reason being the distance between the car and me most of the week)... I am just checking into things "for future reference".
And since someone bothered to read, what's your take on the following upgrades:

T3/T4 garret turbo
Tubular exh. mani
3' thick FMIC
255 lph fuel pump +rewired
AFPR (recomendations?)
880 injectors (the price for 550 660 and 880 on extreme psi web site is same)
(speaking about injectors - there are plate, there are ball-and-plate. Which ones are more popular (thus i would assume better))
dsmlink
GM MAFT + translator... (read dozens of threads on that...)

Clutch (haven't looked into this one yet. Recomendations?)
Flywheel (do i really benefit from lighter flywheel? where is gain, where is loss?)
Short throw shifter...
Bigger brakes...

getting rid of A/C and ABS...
BAttery relocation
Rewire negative cables...

For now I am about to pull the engine out of the car and bolt it on the stand...
What should i look for?

And if I missed anything - correct me please...

I don't want to seem harsh but that is like saying i want some go fast parts and some cool stuff now what:confused:

Your not descided on anything except the direction you want to go with your car which i s ok don't get me wrong. No one that ends up going fast did so with one goal the usualy have a idea of what they want and deals and things happen that lead you one way or another and the end goal is a journey not a destination.

1. GET RID OF THE T3/T4 lingo that is honda guy stuff. There are no such things as t3/t4 turbos they are either t3 or t4. Once that concept is realised then you start lookin at hp goals and what your car is going to be used for. If your looking at bigger turbos your probably not a autocross guy but still lag(how long your turbo takes to spool) will still be a factor if it's a dd. Then before I would look into t3 or t4 turbo I would fully understand bolt on hosuings and the benefits of the t3 and t4 housings over he bolt on housings and the often overlooked benefits of the bolt on housings over the t3 t4 housings. By the way a turbo can be exactly the same and just throw a diffrent exhaust housing on and totaly change the turbo's performance. A/r ratio(I won't even go into what it stands for or means as it is a very long explananition) of the hot side(exhaust side) along with the style hosuing it is (t3 t4 bolt on) will directly lead to what kinda turbo you have wether it be a laggy drag turbo or a everyday quicker spooling grocery getter. Like a gt35r in a bolt on housing with a .63a/r( some say the bolt ons are more like .45 or .55 a/r) will spool signifcantly faster than a full t4 gt35r with a 1.06a/r but the t4 will have more top end. So def look into these terms "a/r ratio" "bolt on housings/t3 housings/t4 hosuings" "engine VE" "lag"

2. Directly related to your main question is the tubular manifold. Once you have read up on the first thing I said then you will know what style exhaust housing you want which will directly effect which manifold style you get. Like you can't use a t4 exhaust mani with a bolt on exhaust housing. On top of this bolt on hosuings can use stock style o2 housings while t3 and t4 housings reuqire external wastegates and that can get tricky when trying to figure out where to place the wastegate. It can go on the exhaus manifold runner number 1 it can go at the collector or the base of your manifold or it can go on your dnp/o2hosuing right after the turbo. The best is the collector as you will effectively controll boost from there better than anywhere else(simply meaning you can oute the wanted and unwanted exhaust gasses best from there) So if you figure out you want a t3 or t4 housing I would look into tubulars that have built in flanges coming out where the collector is like the dnp style ones or the ones from sbr. then look into something like a 30 or 40mm hks external wastegate. If you want to go bolt on things become more simple but less effective but also cheaper so thats something to think about.


The rest of the stuff you will pick up on as you go along like short shifter aren't very useful but some will disagree. Flywheels are debated over because of like they said lack f rotating mass causes the turbo to drop boost quicker in between shifts because the engine speed dropps quicker. 880's and dsmlink sounds good GM setup good to. CLutches it all depends on car use and power goals again but anything from a act2100 to a act2900 or a sbr4500 just read up and figure out what you want to do with the car then descided
 
Quick question - how does tranni connect to transfer case? can i just pull them apart? is there any tricks/pitfalls? pulling the engine tomorrow
 
Lisij77 said:
Quick question - how does tranni connect to transfer case? can i just pull them apart? is there any tricks/pitfalls? pulling the engine tomorrow

You have to get the exhaust out of the way, then you take 5 bolts out of the Tcase, slide it off the tranny output shaft (on a tranny jack or some rigged floor jack), lower it, and slide the driveshaft out of the back. If you lean it forward, the fluid won't come out, or you can drain the tcase before you do any of this. You can let the driveshaft spline rest on a rag or hang it from the undercarriage with some wire.

The T-case has a bit of weight to it, so I recommend a jack.

As for flywheels, a lighter one doesn't add hp. It'll decrease rotational mass which will make the car quicker during acceleration just the same as knocking 100lb off the car weight (which also doesn't affect hp). The quicker rev can make for quicker downshifts and let you get to 4k faster when you're launching, but like someone already said, it'll also drop RPM faster which will drag the turbo boost down faster between shifts.

Are you going to want a 1/4 mile car or a street/autox car? A huge turbo will disappoint on the street, but a quicker spooling turbo will fade at higher revs. In the latter case, you can compensate a bit with cams to improve flow at the top end. You could also go with a stroker setup to get more low-end torque which would help out with a larger turbo.

Pick your goals and go from there.:thumb:
 
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