help choosing a crank

[kriptonite8614]

well about two years ago i blew the motor in my 94 talon tsi. ive finally gotten around to building it but cant decide which crankshaft to order. first let me tell you that i didnt blow a rod through the block or anything. i threw a rod bearing so that entails a new crank and rods and pistons and a couple other things that werent effected but i claim were. thats my story and im stickin to it. well anyways i contacted FFWD and darren gave me a reasonable price for a butchered 7-bolt but im not sure if i want to spend so much. i found a topline for about a 3rd of the price but im not sure if topline is any good. i can either get the topline without balancing for 450 or get a remanned with balancing for 450. which is a better choice...im trying to keep the bottom end rebuild under 1500 and i dont see that happening with an order for a butchered FFWD. any help is appreciated.

 

[brandonzero0]

For DD you don't want a butcher crank first of all if its a daily driver, and you spun a rod bearing not threw a rod bearing. Some reman;ed cranks are good some are bad and people claim you get what you paid for, Topline is a decent brand nothing special some people run there pistons and alot use there gaskets with now complaints. i also assume SBr wouldn't sell anything crappy. You also don't necessarily have to get a new crank you can also get it Turned cut) and and get over sized bearings. Doesn't mean you HAVE to get a crank.

 

[turbosax2]

For DD you don't want a butcher crank first of all if its a daily driver

Why is this?

 

[TSIfreek]

Why is this?

I will steal this and explain.
The reason you dont or its not recomended or needed in a street car is that a street car runs at low to mid rpms and a lightweight crank is desighned to run at high RPMs
Reason for this is that at low rpm lets say from a stop. The engine responds better with a heavy stock crank because it has the crank weight and the flywheel weight keeping the engine motion going. If you put a lightweight crank or aluminum flywheel in the motor will bog down because it does not have that rotational force keeping it going as it did with the stock equipment. Can a stock crank turn to 10k? Sure it can as long as it was properly balanced.
The only time I would run a tweeked out crank is if I was running 9s and its a track only car (and if I could afford one). And even then you can run a completly stock crank no problem and guys do it everyday. If you have to put the money somewere in the motor put it in a pair of H beam rods for 300$
Get a regular stock crank from a reputable dsm shop that has machined it properly. You dont need a brand new crank. I would look at buschur, FFWD or JAM for setting you up with what you need along with the bearings you need. Keep your rebuild simple, and take your time

 

[brandonzero0]

I will steel this and explain.
The reason you dont or its not recomended or needed in a street car is that a street car runs at low to mid rpms and a lightweight crank is desighned to run at high RPMs
Reason for this is that at low rpm lets say from a stop. The engine responds better with a heavy stock crank because it has the crank weight and the flywheel weight keeping the engine motion going. If you put a lightweight crank or aluminum flywheel in the motor will bog down because it does not have that rotational force keeping it going as it did with the stock equipment. Can a stock crank turn to 10k? Sure it can as long as it was properly balanced.
The only time I would run a tweeked out crank is if I was running 9s and its a track only car (and if I could afford one). And even then you can run a completly stock crank no problem and guys do it everyday. If you have to put the money somewere in the motor put it in a pair of H beam rods for 300$
Get a regular stock crank from a reputable dsm shop that has machined it properly. You dont need a brand new crank. I would look at buschur, FFWD or JAM for setting you up with what you need along with the bearings you need. Keep your rebuild simple, and take your time

Thanks, couldn't have said it better.

 

[Zex4g63]

The Topline crank is balanced.

 

[99gst_racer]

I don't like any of those three options.

Why not try to source out a used crank in good condition and then have it micropolished. You'd have $150 into it. Much more friendly to your budget.

 

[Defiant]

Mitsubishi says their cranks are not serviceable. When they are out of tolerance, they are to be replaced, not rebuilt.
Yes, there are thousands running rebuilt, re-worked and re-whatevered cranks. I wouldn't.

 

[kriptonite8614]

thanks everyone for your input into my new but old project. Im trying to stay away from re-anythinged cranks or any other internal parts. at this point im stuck between two choices: Topline crank with balancing or stroker kit. i only have 2 concerns with the stroker kit, i dont know if the car has to be tuned before its drivable and i already have no traction through 1st, 2nd, and then i chirp third. the stroker kit gives more bottom end power with a faster spool on the turbo but is it gonna make it impossible to drive before third gear? im still not sure but any help choosing between those two is appreciated.


P.S. im probably gonna be building the head while its off the block!!!!!

 

[Defiant]

i only have 2 concerns with the stroker kit

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=271451