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ECMlink Turned the boost UP.......e85 i love you

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I need to subtract fuel in my case then, as my VE's never reach 100 only real low 90's or high 80's. I was hoping you had advice, thanks Brett!!! Where will I know my peak VE's should be? It reaches its highest HP and torque around 6800 but keeps on going, although tapering off, to 82-8500. I'm just learning too. I've been wanting to ask for some help, just stubborn.

If your wideband afr lines up with your afrest due to proper tuning of the sd table your engines peak ve will show itself in the sd table values
 
My highest value then, correct? Thanks Henrysan!
 
I need to subtract fuel in my case then, as my VE's never reach 100 only real low 90's or high 80's. I was hoping you had advice, thanks Brett!!! Where will I know my peak VE's should be? It reaches its highest HP and torque around 6800 but keeps on going, although tapering off, to 82-8500. I'm just learning too. I've been wanting to ask for some help, just stubborn.

Like @henrysan said, peak VE will pretty much show iteslf in a log if everything is pretty close to being dialed in. Here's a screenshot of a log from my car:

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There's a mathematical way to determine this, but for simpletons like myself, the log will get you close.

4 things you want to look at in the log:

1) Peak torque
2) Peak power
3) Peak VE
4) Where these values "intersect"

If you look at where my cursor is, the car is making peak power, torque, and VE at that point in the log. As a general rule for DSM guys, this typically occurs around 5,500 RPM (5,274 in my case). This should be pretty close where the car is at peak VE. Reference the peak VE value, and reference all the cells that are highlighted during that VE value. For example, my VE is 1.000, so I'll scroll through the log and target all the cells that get highlighted when VE is at 1.000 or over. In these cells, you're shooting for 100% VE.

Again, if your peak VE is over 100% in your SD table, you need to add fuel via global, if it's under 100%, you need to subtract fuel via global.

This is where how your table looks actually matters. A sexy VE table directly correlates to a smooth running car that makes good power. @19gsx91 can back up what I'm saying, as he's ridden in 1837 ;)

Edit: One important thing to note; if your tune is completely jacked, the method above will not work for you. As your values get more out of wack, you won't be able to rely on your logs to give you accurate information about how the motor is actually running. For example, your log isn't going to clearly show peak VE in a cut-and-dry format (like in my log) if your tune is all f***ed up. The car needs to be fairly close to being dialed in before you can use the method above.
 
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I can tell the car is making some power.......puts your head into the back of the seat.Im sure if i had the stockers on the tires would light up
 
Im gunna keep the boost level at this point and work on the tune, any more and I think im either gunna burn the clutch or destroy my transmission
 
South Bend sounds great I had a chance to meet and talk with Tim Zimmer I'll be grabbing one down the road.
 
@GST with PSI is right.. 1837 is a monster.. still waiting for you to drive up here so we can swap transmissions on my lift ;)

I'll briefly kick in here.. I also have an ACT 2600 as does Brett.. If my clutch slips even the slightest bit in first coming off a stop it'll let go completely in 1st and second.. in that regard my clutch is unforgiving. The wheels let go regardless in first and second but I believe all 3 of you are higher horsepower then I am, my powerband is just much farther to the left then the rest of you since I make 28psi around 3700rpm. @amsrn13 Do not forget that stock transmissions CAN survive high horsepower builds but you cannot survive 400+ low end torque, or launches. You may be okay for the time being.

I have a southbend clutch setup that Tim Zimmer recommended for my specific setup and horsepower goals, he was very helpful and I definitely recommend going through him.. I just haven't put it in yet because I think Brett and I will just have a transmission party if he comes up. LOL
 
@GST with PSI is right.. 1837 is a monster.. still waiting for you to drive up here so we can swap transmissions on my lift ;)

I'll briefly kick in here.. I also have an ACT 2600 as does Brett.. If my clutch slips even the slightest bit in first coming off a stop it'll let go completely in 1st and second.. in that regard my clutch is unforgiving. The wheels let go regardless in first and second but I believe all 3 of you are higher horsepower then I am, my powerband is just much farther to the left then the rest of you since I make 28psi around 3700rpm. @amsrn13 Do not forget that stock transmissions CAN survive high horsepower builds but you cannot survive 400+ low end torque, or launches. You may be okay for the time being.

I have a southbend clutch setup that Tim Zimmer recommended for my specific setup and horsepower goals, he was very helpful and I definitely recommend going through him.. I just haven't put it in yet because I think Brett and I will just have a transmission party if he comes up. LOL[/QUOTE we will see..... I'm gunna keep pushing , I don't give a shit what happens
 
I was looking at the act 2800 or 3200 with 6 puck sprung

The TQ holding capcaity of the SB vs ACT is quite diifferent. Even on a SB-2200 with a TZ series (their lowest lvl disc) https://www.tmzperformance.com/ rates it at 500 ftlbs. Quite a bit higher than what a ACT-2600 and street disc is at 415 ftlbs.

Less pedal pressure and more holding TQ is win win.

With a ACT2600 and SB TZ-disc disc I should be well into the 500.
 
The TQ holding capcaity of the SB vs ACT is quite diifferent. Even on a SB-2200 with a TZ series (their lowest lvl disc) https://www.tmzperformance.com/ rates it at 500 ftlbs. Quite a bit higher than what a ACT-2600 and street disc is at 415 ftlbs.

Less pedal pressure and more holding TQ is win win.

With a ACT2600 and SB TZ-disc disc I should be well into the 500.
the only issue....at what time slip do you enter into roll cage territory
 
the only issue....at what time slip do you enter into roll cage territory

Not sure, depends on the local track. Ours is time based. You running sub 10's? you need cage spec xx....sub 9's you need cage spec yy...and so on.

I believe once your sub 10s and you need a cage at our track.

I'm road racing with my DSM and maybe the odd day at the strip so I need a cage regardless as we race NASA rules and I fall into the ST-1 or ST-U class both of which need cages. Since I have a cage I'll mos def do a couple rips at the drag strip to see what she can do....but my build is for wheel to wheel racing.
 
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