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SBR Cast Manifold

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TSIsean said:
Or, since your obviously modding the car for speed strip out all that A/C crap. :thumb:


This is my daily and I live in south FL, no AC is not an option. Besides it's a much better feeling to let someone know you're running fast times in a full weight car with AC, power steering, leather, etc.
 
Syndicate13 said:
This is my daily and I live in south FL, no AC is not an option. Besides it's a much better feeling to let someone know you're running fast times in a full weight car with AC, power steering, leather, etc.

I totally agree with you on this! But im still debating on a manual rack.

To keep on subject. What kind of power gains can you see just switching from a stock 1G manifold(not ported) to this new SBR(ported). Im trying to do 110 in the 1/4 on the stock turbo and need all the help I can get. This just might be the next thing I need to do.

what do you guys think? Have any ideas on power gains, given that everything else is held constant like boost, weather, etc.

Also when you have SBR port the new manifold, do you have to specify if you want Stage 1 or Stage 2 porting? From what they say on their website it looks like the one in the pics is a Stage 2 port job.

Looks pretty nice,
Josh
 
I don't think they do staged port jobs on their manifolds, thats a mitsu manifold option
 
mitsuclipsegsx said:
IS this the place for the EGT probe

This may be the place they intended an EGT probe to go. However, it is NOT the proper location for an EGT probe on a turbo car. With non-turbo, that would be ideal. With turbo, you want the EGT probe between 1" and 2" AFTER the turbo.

Some people run an EGT probe immediately after each cylinder on a turbo car to measure each cylinder individually. This is for consistency between the cylinders. For an accurate overall EGT reading, on a turbo car, it should go just past the turbo.

Here's a pic of mine:
 

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SlowImport said:
I totally agree with you on this! But im still debating on a manual rack.

To keep on subject. What kind of power gains can you see just switching from a stock 1G manifold(not ported) to this new SBR(ported). Im trying to do 110 in the 1/4 on the stock turbo and need all the help I can get. This just might be the next thing I need to do.

what do you guys think? Have any ideas on power gains, given that everything else is held constant like boost, weather, etc.

Also when you have SBR port the new manifold, do you have to specify if you want Stage 1 or Stage 2 porting? From what they say on their website it looks like the one in the pics is a Stage 2 port job.

Looks pretty nice,
Josh

Our new manifold, the $50.00 port job is porting the entire manifold.

Thanks for considering the manifold, its a great piece!

MGH
 
Catbox_95 said:
This may be the place they intended an EGT probe to go. However, it is NOT the proper location for an EGT probe on a turbo car. With non-turbo, that would be ideal. With turbo, you want the EGT probe between 1" and 2" AFTER the turbo.

Some people run an EGT probe immediately after each cylinder on a turbo car to measure each cylinder individually. This is for consistency between the cylinders. For an accurate overall EGT reading, on a turbo car, it should go just past the turbo.

Here's a pic of mine:

The argument for putting it on the #1 cylinder is that this is where your car will see its leanest conditions. It would be no good to take an overall temp but find out later you were frying the #1. Having one on each cylinder would be nice though :)
 
Spidey said:
I recall you guys saying there would be a T3 flanged version of the cast manifold in the future, any plans for that still or no?

We have had mroe request for the T4 first.... so it will be next... expect about 90-120 days for the T4 as of right now.

T3 will still happen however, but it is not next up right now!

MGH
 
Slowboy said:
We have had mroe request for the T4 first.... so it will be next... expect about 90-120 days for the T4 as of right now.

T3 will still happen however, but it is not next up right now!

MGH

what about a tubular o2 setup like this, the DNP combo for you manifold
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i want to be able to reap the benifits of a manifold mounted external wastegate without the harsh noise of an external dump. i like my current downpipe and would like to have an simple clean and easy bolt on. i'm already running your manni, but i'm ready to take it to the next level when i get my 50 trim.

i know i could make one custom, but you guys do such fabulous work :thumb:
 
i just bought it and i'm gonna run external so when it's all on i will post some pics but that might not be for a about a month i need to decide on a turbo to buy
 
its actually not a bad price for it considering it brings equal length manifold o2 housing and tial 38mm wastegate. do the math it cost about the same as buying a cast manifold and a ported o2 housing and tial wastegate
 
Ryan95tsiAWD said:
The argument for putting it on the #1 cylinder is that this is where your car will see its leanest conditions. It would be no good to take an overall temp but find out later you were frying the #1. Having one on each cylinder would be nice though :)

How about one in each cylinder. One in the collector. And one post turbine. ???

Because one is sufficient in the first runner for most street applications.
 
joeracer321 said:
It will out live any tubular manifold.....

How so? I can understand your statement in regards to a number of the manifolds out there since they're cheap shit, but I do not believe your statement is true when looking at the higher end manifolds (Shearer, Full Race, Autolab, etc).
 
Slowboy said:
Our new manifold, the $50.00 port job is porting the entire manifold.

Thanks for considering the manifold, its a great piece!

MGH

I can't help but to ask, if the casted manifold is made to your specs why would porting be necessary?
It's looking good neverless. I would think a t3 flange would be more of a request than a t4.
 
GstRacer said:
i just bought it and i'm gonna run external so when it's all on i will post some pics but that might not be for a about a month i need to decide on a turbo to buy
AMS GT35RL for the win...
 
green92gsx said:
I can't help but to ask, if the casted manifold is made to your specs why would porting be necessary?
It's looking good neverless. I would think a t3 flange would be more of a request than a t4.

The cast manifolds are just that - CAST. They are cast out of a mold, mass-produced. There are inherent imperfections, rough edges and slightly off-sized openings. Then you go and port it by hand to smooth out any casting imperfections and fine-tune it. This is the same reason there's always room for improvement by porting a head, no matter how good of a head the casting may be.
 
I understand that whole part of casting flashes. But why charge the customer $50 to clean them up ? Theres a big difference between porting (removing material) and cleaning up casting flashes.
 
They actually do a pretty nice job porting them. They go all the way through the runners, and really clean up the collector area. I'd say it's a good hours worth of work. How much do shops usually charge per hour?

I'm pretty savvy on porting and polishing, and I wouldn't do it for less than that.
 
upon examining mine i observed that w/ the porting the runner stayed nearly the same diameter as the exhaust manifold gasket... all the way to the collector. it really looked like it had been cnc machined. very very nice port work. sooooo smooth.

i don't know what they coat it with either, but i've had mine for 2 months now and the gray finish is still intact.
 
green92gsx said:
I can't help but to ask, if the casted manifold is made to your specs why would porting be necessary?
It's looking good neverless. I would think a t3 flange would be more of a request than a t4.

There is no easy way to answer this question, but I will throw my reasoning in here.... because people pay to have it ported. Is that a good enough answer, or did you want me to fluff it up? LOL

We have 5 to 1 request for T4 over T3.

Mike Huml
 
Catbox_95 said:
The cast manifolds are just that - CAST. They are cast out of a mold, mass-produced. There are inherent imperfections, rough edges and slightly off-sized openings. Then you go and port it by hand to smooth out any casting imperfections and fine-tune it. This is the same reason there's always room for improvement by porting a head, no matter how good of a head the casting may be.

This is reason #2...

:)

Mike Huml
 
Catbox_95 said:
They actually do a pretty nice job porting them. They go all the way through the runners, and really clean up the collector area. I'd say it's a good hours worth of work. How much do shops usually charge per hour?

I'm pretty savvy on porting and polishing, and I wouldn't do it for less than that.

We have about 1-1.25 hours in this, and 2-3 sanding rolls....

It is actually less than we normally charge for an hour!

Mike Huml
 
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