plymouth laser rs n/a 4g63 map/ mdp?

[DaytonDsm]

A buddy of mine said that my map sensor is bad but reading I see all kinds of different posts saying we don't have a map sensor or we do and some people calling it a mdp sensor. Also I started looking and I cannot find this sensor. Where is it located? Also is there a quick easy fix or do I have to replace it all together?

 

[kennygw]

you have a mass airflow sensor, its inside the filter in the big canister.

 

[19Eclipse90]

MDP - manifold differential pressure - sensor is not found on 1Gs. This is the sensor as located on a 2G: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/151528335-post2.html

 

[DaytonDsm]

Okay, so instead of 1g not having one, what would be similar to a map sensor or mdp sensor for a 1g?

 

[19Eclipse90]

1. Do you have what I linked to on top of your manifold?

2. Is this what your manifold looks like (more or less)? http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/397414-bov-vacuum-line.html#post152523473

 

[DaytonDsm]

No I do not, but you're not reading my questions. so instead of 1g not having one, what would be similar to a map sensor or mdp sensor for a 1g?

 

[19Eclipse90]

I feel like your question didn't say that the whole time.

19Eclipse90, a member by the name of "DaytonDsm" from the DSM Forums has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - plymouth laser rs n/a 4g63 map/ mdp? - in the Maintenance & Repairs forum of DSM Forums. This thread is located at:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/mai...lymouth-laser-rs-n-4g63-map-mdp-new-post.html
Here is the message that has just been posted:
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So the thing on top of my manifold isnt a mdp sensor?
*********************************

To answer that question: nothing that I'm aware of. As the link I provided to you states, the sensor is to ensure the EGR (emissions) system is working properly on a 2G. There are a number of solenoids that function with the EGR system on a 1G, but none actively monitor whether the system is functioning or not.

 

[DSM1G90]

(...sounds like the buddy doesn't know anything about DSM's ... ) How would he know, or what's his reasoning on what he thinks you got is bad?

 

[DaytonDsm]

Okay, he is still saying I have a map sensor. So is the maf like a map sensor or what. He is saying its on my drivers side by the intake manifold

 

[19Eclipse90]

No. The MAF is your mass (though actually, it reads volume) air flow sensor. It is by/in your air filter.

Has he pointed this supposed object out to you? Can you show us what he's on about?

 

[DaytonDsm]

Ok, I figured out he was thinking of a turbo, he didn't know mine was a n/a. So the question remains. My car has a kinda bad miss and it hits a wall at different rpms, i've had to take my maf apart to clean it and I think I might have messed it up. Would this cause my car to run like shit if my maf was bad

 

[19Eclipse90]

The MAF didn't change location between 1.8L and 2.0L engines or turbo and non-turbo 1Gs, nor was there ever a MDP/MAP or similar sensor, so the answer remains.

A bad MAF could very well be your issue. I will ask, just to be thorough, if you were having any issues before you cleaned the MAF? Are we talking about a 1.8L or 2.0L? Do you get a "Check Engine" light?

 

[DaytonDsm]

2.0, and yeah but i solved the remaining issues when i replaced my iac and tps then they came back once i took apart my maf

 

[19Eclipse90]

So... why'd you break it?

Let's get this laid out. Initially, you were having these issues, missing or what have you, so you replaced the IAC and TPS and it solved everything. Then, some time later and for whatever reason (mind sharing so we have a complete picture?), you took apart and put back together your MAF only to find yourself back to where you were before you replaced the IAC and TPS. Right?

That seems to point pretty heavily to something related with your MAF unless your ECU has decided to take a dump. Do you get a "Check Engine" light? Are your vacuum lines all hooked up?

 

[DaytonDsm]

Okay, here is the full story. I bought the car for 800. it is a 93 plymouth laser rs gold package only 97k miles. I got the car it stuttered bad bucked under even the smallest load (ie when I pushed the gas pedal) I thought it was a simple fix. It would not idle at all and I had to play with the pedal just to get it to pass certain rpms or it would act like it would want to go but did not. I replaced the iac and the tps within the 2 weeks I had it, That fixed the idling issue and some of the bucking issue, the stutter (misfire) still continued. A friend say I should clean out the maf. So that's what I did, I also removed the maf silencer. He said it would help with the air flow. The problem continued still but got a tad better but worsned over time. Now it barely wants to move and it starts to buck and misfire like it's a machine gun. I noticed that the battery had been arched on the bottom of the hood would this cause this problem also? I'm kinda at a stand still and or what I should replace next. So if you would mind lending me your advice on what you think it would be greatly appreshiated now that you have the full story. edit: also I the car turns over about 5-6 times before it actually starts. It's getting fuel dilvery and spark I just gave it a full tune up.

 

[19Eclipse90]

In the realm of electricity, it seems like anything is possible.

I assume your "Check Engine" light isn't on with the engine running since you haven't made mention of it. That would be the easiest place to start. Otherwise you start doing a number of tests to figure out what is what.

Other than that, for starters, how's your compression at full operating temperature?

 

[DaytonDsm]

I did a compression test. All held out at 120-140 threw a peroid of 5 minutes nothing fell. And no my engine light doesnt come on.

 

[19Eclipse90]

When you replaced the TPS, did you adjust it properly? Does it test okay?
TPS Adjustment
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/323258-how-do-i-test-my-4-wire-tps.html

Test the harness side of the throttle position sensor
-With the connector unplugged from the sensor and the ignition switch in the "ON" position, check the power supply voltage on pin 1 (green w/ red wire). It should read 4.8-5.2V.
-With the connector unplugged, check for continuity of the ground circuit on pin 4 (green w/ black wire).

After you did your tune-up, did you set base ignition timing?
Engine Timing
Base Timing Adjustment

Can you verify the ISC is working as well?
Idle Surge FAQ

Do you have any vacuum leaks?

Perform the following in steps for each section (sections are denoted by the space in between one another). If one portion fails, stop and aim to correct the issue before proceeding. A single failure may indicate a wiring issue whereas multiple failures may indicate an ECU issue.

Test the harness side of the volume air flow portion of the MAF sensor
- With the connector unplugged from the sensor and the ignition switch in the "ON" position, check the terminal voltage at pin 1 (green w/ blue wire). It should read 4.8-5.2V.
-With the connector unplugged from the sensor and the ignition in the "ON" position, measure the power supply voltage at pin 2 (red wire). It should read battery voltage.
-With the connector unplugged from the sensor, check for continuity of the ground circuit on pin 4 (green w/ black wire).

Test the intake air temperature sensor
-With the connector unplugged from the sensor, measure the resistance between terminals 4 and 6.
At 32 degrees Fahrenheit, resistance should be about 6000 ohms.
At 68 degrees Fahrenheit, resistance should be about 2700 ohms.
At 176 degrees Fahrenheit, resistance should be about 400 ohms.
You can use a hair dryer to vary temperatures, but for the most part, a higher temperature should produce a lower resistance. If the resistance remains unchanged, the sensor is faulty.

Test the harness side of the intake air temperature portion of the MAF sensor
-With the connector unplugged from the sensor and the ignition switch in the "ON" position, check voltage at pin 6 (green w/ orange wire). It should read 4.5-4.9V.

Test the harness side of the barometric pressure portion of the MAF sensor
-With the connector unplugged from the sensor and the ignition switch in the "ON" position, check the power supply voltage at pin 3 (green w/ red wire). It should read 4.8-5.2V.

Test the harness side of the closed throttle position switch
-With the connector unplugged from the sensor and the ignition switch in the "ON" position, check the power supply voltage (only one pin). It should read 4 or more volts.

Test the closed throttle position switch
-With the connector unplugged from the sensor, check continuity between the pin and ground. With the throttle closed, there should be no continuity. With the throttle open, there should be continuity.

Those are some "free" tests (assuming you have a multimeter and timing light) you can do to check if everything is up to par, more or less.

 

[DSM1G90]

(...makes me wonder if his ECU took a dump when he started to fool with those sensors - shorted out the drivers in the ECU that runs these sensors - it's not hard to short out a driver since there is very small current that runs through them to the sensor...... or, blew a ground trace on the momboard of the ECU, in which I've been there and done that with my ECU since I started to have the basic same problems as OP here is experiencing prior to getting it repaired)