1G Opinions please on usefulness of front strut tower brace on a 1G

[TrevorS]

Hi, I'm considering purchasing a Megan pre-tensioned front strut tower brace for my '90 GSX with ProKit springs (you suspend the front wheels and tighten the bar to pre-tension it). I installed a pre-tensioned front brace (Tanabe) on my 2008 xB almost a year ago and it made a modest but decent improvement in steering stability. Please note, I'm talking about a pre-tensioned front strut tower brace, not a nonadjustable brace, nor a sway bar, nor "stress" bar.

I'd really appreciate the opinion of those experienced with such braces as to whether one would be beneficial on a 1G Eclipse. If you're not clear what I'm talking about or have no experience with a pre-tensioned strut tower brace, please don't offer opinions.

Thanks !

 

[H4G64T]

Link to this bar?

 

[TrevorS]

This link shows the component parts -- the two end brackets hinge to bolts that thread into the bar ends. The threads are opposing so when the bar is rotated by hand it tightens in one direction, and loosens in the other. Correct installation requires the front wheels be off the ground and then the bar is hand tightened to remove as much flex as practical from the towers -- then the bolts are locked with the supplied nuts against the bar.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Fron...s=Year:1990|Model:Eclipse&hash=item4cf8fd36b7

 

[H4G64T]

I don't know how to say this, but, that's the same as the one sold everywhere and there is no mention of this being pre-tensioned. It actually looks identical to one we bought off this site:

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

How are you sure this does what you are saying?

 

[TrevorS]

From looking at the design. The pre-tensioning is done during install -- if you skip those steps, then you're not getting the proper benefit of the brace. (And no, the Tanabe didn't include proper install instructions either.)

PS -- Yes, the one you bought should be installed in the same fashion I just described. One thread is clockwise, the other is counterclockwise. If you don't pretension, then you're locking in slop.

 

[Bud92gsx]

The brace actually does help stiffen up the fron't end quite a bit.. I've been thinking about getting a rear one myself..

 

[H4G64T]

I think you need to call them and ask them for an actual picture of the item, when you look in their store under a 95-99 they use the exact same picture as they do the 90-94, right click and view the location, you may not get what you actually see in that picture.

 

[TrevorS]

Given they say it's Megan, I don't think there should be a problem, though if you think I should verify the manufacturer and year range, I certainly can do that. But thinking of the brace, I gather you haven't pre-tensioned it, but I'm guessing you remember whether the bar turned in the fashion I described above. Do you have an opinion on whether you found it beneficial to steering stability (recognizing you have a G2, not a G1)?

The brace actually does help stiffen up the fron't end quite a bit.. I've been thinking about getting a rear one myself..

Thanks much for the input. I'll probably not go further than the front myself since I don't want to cut the interior panels and loose the luggage space, but that's just me !

 

[H4G64T]

The only thing I am questioning about those bars is the hardware it shows. The one's that we got have hardware like this:

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And the first link you posted seemed to have a different bolting solution. As far as the strut tower bars go, they made a difference, but nothing major.

 

[TrevorS]

I saw that design on Ebay and it's not the same as the Megan. That curved front bar is not only a problem for tensioning (probably can't), but it's also likely to flex under compression or tension -- that's not what I'm looking for.

 

[bertrenolds]

What is the small bar for?

I have front and back strut bars and they were the ebay cheapos but well worth it in my opinion when you replace your bushings and get solid motor mounts your car will feel like a go-kart going around turns aside from the sloppy feel you get from an awd it will help. I have a FWD and it really tightens things up in my opinion.

 

[TSITurbo95]

The small bar is for the rear lower brace for FWD cars.

 

[TrevorS]

I saw that design on Ebay and it's not the same as the Megan. That curved front bar is not only a problem for tensioning (probably can't), but it's also likely to flex under compression or tension -- that's not what I'm looking for.

Called MeganRacingStore and they say the bar is straight (MR-SB-ME89FUG), but when I called Megan Racing, I was told the bar is slightly curved. I asked about the bolt threads and they are indeed opposite, but he felt tensioning after install probably wouldn't work due to the curve. I asked if they had a straight bar brace and he said no. So, I guess that eliminates Megan for me !

 

[H4G64T]

Called MeganRacingStore and they say the bar is straight (MR-SB-ME89FUG), but when I called Megan Racing, I was told the bar is slightly curved. I asked about the bolt threads and they are indeed opposite, but he felt tensioning after install probably wouldn't work due to the curve. I asked if they had a straight bar brace and he said no. So, I guess that eliminates Megan for me !

That sucks, I really was hoping you stumbled upon a new product for us DSMers. Unfortunately every front bar I have seen has a little hump to it because of the intake manifold. The only one that didn't was not adjustable, it was the DC Sports one, but not sure if they make one for 1Gs.

 

[Jon91TSi]

I have the same bar you are talking about, I think it helps a bit, but it doesn't work the miracles you speak of...

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[daren_p]

Better then nothing? Ya, should be. Are they the best option? No probably not. The option to "load" the shock towers, is nice to have but this makes most of the cheepo bars out there flimsy with all the pieces required to make them adjustable, plus the mounting brackets are usually far from "heavy duty". I prefer a nice, solid, one piece bar.

 

[TrevorS]

That sucks, I really was hoping you stumbled upon a new product for us DSMers. Unfortunately every front bar I have seen has a little hump to it because of the intake manifold. The only one that didn't was not adjustable, it was the DC Sports one, but not sure if they make one for 1Gs.

It's kind of a bummer since I just placed an aluminum level from tower top to tower top and there's reasonable clearance for a straight bar given just a little lift at the two bracket pivots (which appears present in that Ebay photo). 'Course, I guess one could reasonably argue engine rock could potentially cause the plenum to hit the bar. Oh, well!

I have the same bar you are talking about, I think it helps a bit, but it doesn't work the miracles you speak of...

Is that the Megan? None of the product photos indicate anywhere near as much bar lift as that! Lovely engine bay by the way ! Never expected miracles, just wondered if it would have a similar effect to the Tanabe on my xB2, hardly a killer mod, but modestly desirable.

PS. I don't know man -- I think that has to be a different brace. It just doesn't match at all with this photo of the Megan's supposedly "slightly" curved bar. In fact, the curve appears so mild, I'm tempted to give it a whirl anyway.

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PPS. OK, I decided to go for it. I just placed an order and I'll let you know if I'm able to pretension it, I want the towers "loaded" !

 

[TrevorS]

Is that the Megan? None of the product photos indicate anywhere near as much bar lift as that! Lovely engine bay by the way ! Never expected miracles, just wondered if it would have a similar effect to the Tanabe on my xB2, hardly a killer mod, but modestly desirable.

PS. I don't know man -- I think that has to be a different brace. It just doesn't match at all with this photo of the Megan's supposedly "slightly" curved bar. In fact, the curve appears so mild, I'm tempted to give it a whirl anyway.

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PPS. OK, I decided to go for it. I just placed an order and I'll let you know if I'm able to pretension it, I want the towers "loaded" !

OK, sure enough, that was the same bar -- my bad !

It took about a month to finally get my hands on the bar -- ended up going with EBSTORES on Ebay ($60 shipped). Here's how it went:
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I'm disappointed the loft in the design prevents simple hand tightening for strut tower pre-load, but I think I've a work-around !

These two photos show the appearance and shape of the Megan Racing brace:

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As received, the end brackets were switched so the word "Megan" was oriented towards the rear of the car rather than the front. This next photo shows a trial fit where I was trying to decide how to accomplish preload.

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During this I discovered there was rust on the right inner fender at the battery bracket bolt, plus rust on the battery bracket itself (I'd cleaned up bracket rust once before, but it obviously didn't last !) I'll probably hold off reinstalling the battery bracket 'til Wednesday (want the paint to be good and dry)

This photo shows the brace rotated toward the cabin to relax the pull a little.

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FWIW -- I test fit the tower brace both with front wheels down and with them suspended, but found I couldn't tighten it as much with the wheels off the ground! Wasn't expecting that, but given I need the brace tight, it dictated install with wheels down. Others may have different results.
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Having had a couple not so humid days to promote fender paint drying, I decided to complete the brace install, though I'll continue to hold off on the battery bracket.

Preloading the towers takes a few steps, but it's not bad! First make sure the two brace bolts are screwed equally far into the brace (which isn't how mine arrived). Push the two Allen pivot bolts all the way into the brackets and spin in their nuts (don't tighten). Rotate the brace between the brackets to roughly the desired length, start both nuts on one bracket (only a couple turns). Go to the other end, lift the bracket and while pulling mildly against the other bracket, further rotate the brace to position the rear tower bolt top just within the outside edge of the rear bracket hole (if the bolt top is nearer the center, rotate just that bracket forward one turn). Rotate the brace roughly 45 degrees toward the cabin, start the remaining two nuts and then finger "tighten" all four down equally. Rotate the brace forward so the top is flat and tighten the two brace lock nuts while holding the brace to prevent it loosening (19mm). Wrench tighten first the two rear nuts, then the two front nuts, and then torque them (29-36 lb-ft). Finally, tighten the two Allen bolt nuts attaching the brace to the brackets (8mm Allen, 14mm nut). When finished, there shouldn't be more than one exposed thread difference between the brace bolts.

Here's how it came out and the tower/brace structure is now pretty darned rigid !

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To remove if needed for battery access, release the two Allen bolt nuts, loosen the brace lock nuts, loosen to the last couple threads but don't remove the four tower nuts, rotate the brace toward the cabin about 45 degrees, yank up on the back of each bracket to free them from the tower bolt threads, and remove the nuts.

The nylon washers at the left are for the battery bracket bolts to protect the paint.
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OK, it's Wednesday, though admittedly not by a lot ! I've installed the battery bracket and associated hardware.

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From what I've read, most people don't go to the trouble of preloading the towers. Given it's a fairly cheap mod, and preloading is very doable, I'm hoping others will try it and I'm interested in what they think !

 

[Vincent Pandolph]

Called MeganRacingStore and they say the bar is straight (MR-SB-ME89FUG), but when I called Megan Racing, I was told the bar is slightly curved. I asked about the bolt threads and they are indeed opposite, but he felt tensioning after install probably wouldn't work due to the curve. I asked if they had a straight bar brace and he said no. So, I guess that eliminates Megan for me !

R'Active used to make one for the front. Was cheap price,cheap appearance, but it made a big difference in handling. I also changed sway bay end links and used polyurethane bushings front and rear, also used a bigger rear sway bar and polyurethane bushings for it. That was on my 91 TSI AWD

 

[dustyboner]

boosted fabrications makes the only decent slut bars i've seen for a while now.

https://www.boostedfabrication.com/collections/1g-dsm/products/1g-solid-front-strut-bar

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[Vincent Pandolph]

I just seen some generic one on eBay$45