The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support JNZ Tuning
Please Support STM Tuned

My $50 paint job pictures.

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

^ sure can just google roll on paint job and there are lots of write up I just don't want to roll it on.
 
Looks real good man. Keep us posted on how it fade and stresses if you would.
 
The paint I put on the wheels was just some ACE Metallic bronze paint.
 
Wow, that looks pretty good. I tried the rolling method on the hood of my 1g and it came out horrible, LOL. Looks good for $50 :hellyeah:
 
Nobody here seems to understand how to do the rolled way if it came out like shit from what everyone is saying. And someone mentioned cracking on the bumpers.... House paint is thick to start with, to properly paint a car with it to look natural your supposed to thin out the paint and take your time. The 50 dollar paint job takes alot of time but saves alot of money. It doesn't come out perfect right away, but after a week or so doing it the right way, it will shine like a new penny and flex with no issues. And requiring no clear coat is a good thing, you don't have to be like me with chipping paint all over the f'n place.

Look at the thread on here about the 2g talon that went from white to black. It came out amazing.

I'm going to try to locate a color matching Radiant Red so I can do my car.
 
Nobody here seems to understand how to do the rolled way if it came out like shit from what everyone is saying. And someone mentioned cracking on the bumpers.... House paint is thick to start with, to properly paint a car with it to look natural your supposed to thin out the paint and take your time. The 50 dollar paint job takes alot of time but saves alot of money. It doesn't come out perfect right away, but after a week or so doing it the right way, it will shine like a new penny and flex with no issues. And requiring no clear coat is a good thing, you don't have to be like me with chipping paint all over the f'n place.

Look at the thread on here about the 2g talon that went from white to black. It came out amazing.

I'm going to try to locate a color matching Radiant Red so I can do my car.

I would like to see that thread, I'm very interested in seeing somebody else's work.
 
Nobody here seems to understand how to do the rolled way if it came out like shit from what everyone is saying. And someone mentioned cracking on the bumpers.... House paint is thick to start with, to properly paint a car with it to look natural your supposed to thin out the paint and take your time. The 50 dollar paint job takes alot of time but saves alot of money. It doesn't come out perfect right away, but after a week or so doing it the right way, it will shine like a new penny and flex with no issues. And requiring no clear coat is a good thing, you don't have to be like me with chipping paint all over the f'n place.

Look at the thread on here about the 2g talon that went from white to black. It came out amazing.

I'm going to try to locate a color matching Radiant Red so I can do my car.


I did the roller job also but it came out like shit. Repainting the car right now but I'm spraying this time around. It is coming out great.
 
I've done tons of things with rollers that every one of them came out with amazing results. I must not understand how you could do it the right way and it still fail. I even assisted in my neighbors two old restoration projects. A Yellow Cuda and some other white car, both with rustoleum, both done with rollers, both paints matched to the OEM color as best as possible, both glossy and looks natural.

I will only do my car, when I find a paint that when dry and finished, matches my oem paint.
 
I was giong to paint mine with rustoleum oil-based enamel but i couldn't pull myself do it, didn't want to take a chance on something going wrong LOL but that looks really good and a lot better than I would've expected.
And there's a flex additive you can buy to put in the paint for plastic so that the paint isn't so brittle and the plastic can flex without making "spider webs" in the bumper.
 
I just think with my try at the roller I didn't put enough thinner in it. I like spraying better is the reason I decided to spray it.
 
I wont disagree that spraying is better, It is. I was just explaining some things. The thread is on this same area. Just search for 50 paint. I'm sure you'll find it. Its a white talon that gets a little bit of prep work and the paint project lasts a short wh ile but when he's done it looks amazing.

You search all over the web for "50 paint" and you'll find lots of people that do it, the main color is white, Prob since its the most common color LOL.
 
I really need to get out there and finish it, it's just so cold outside.
 
Trick on rolling is to have the paint as thin as milk shake consistency and load the roller heavy with paint and keep the roller wet-don't squeege the roller dry while you're rolling. If the roller beings to look dry, dunk it in the pan to load it up and keep going.

Let the paint actually flow over the surface and squeege the paint around the surface with the wet roller and don't roll thick-roll thin. Then let that dry and plan on doing a good 4 coats afterwards.

True, Rustoleum is durable, yet does fade quickly in UV light (sunlight) and will oxidize along with the lesser flex than acrylics. It's almost like using lacquer. Waxing Rustoleum surfaces is a chore since the paint is so porous and will soak up the wax...

If you're going to clearcoat, use oil based clearcoat sprays, not the professional acrylics/urethane stuff since it's chemical based. For it will take that oil based paint off in a very quick hurry and you got a sloppy goo all over the metal surface where you're gonna have to scrape and sand down to the original primer and start over.

If you wanna see a rolled '90 Eclipse, check my profile. I got a pict of a green Eclipse that I rolled in '07. I sold it in the spring of '09 and the paint did fade quite badly, but I brought out some of the color with a good wax and buffing. I used a quart of "Hunter Green", one pint of "Yellow" and a pint of "Black" to get the green that I wanted. Threw that all in a gallon paint can and added a pint of mineral spirits to thin it up to milk shake consistency.

Took about a week to roll this thing. It was a lot of work, esp with the prep that I had to do, but it was an experience that I'll never forget.

and you'll find lots of people that do it, the main color is white, Prob since its the most common color LOL.
Why white is that it hides the imperfections of the body's surface and the painter's boo-boo's . You go a darker color and it will definitely expose every minute flaw on the surface - both body and paint job.

But, if you want to have fun with white (since Rustoleum white is stark white - almost blinds you on a sunny day) is to add a couple of ounces of purple/violet in the mix. When the sun hits the white, it will make that you gave your car's surface a nice pearl finish since the sunlight will reflect the violet particles that are mixed in the white paint.


good luck - DSM
 
I do auto body repair and paint and have never rolled a car but have my 26' boat that wouldn't fit in the booth. Rolling can give a good finish and is easily applied by the average person. I don't think I would use anything but automotive grade paint. The shear labor involved in sanding and prepping a car for paint requires me to try to make it last You could probably get an Acrylic Enamel for little more than twice the cost and it will last 5 times as long and have a better finish and be mixed to match OEM.
I do like the do it yourself spirit. Can't wait for the finished photos.

Mike
 
Not done and not great but getting closer. Here's what it looks like now with the bronze wheels on it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
That is going to be one sexy looking 1g, imo tint the windows dark and thats it.:hellyeah:


I do auto body repair and paint and have never rolled a car but have my 26' boat that wouldn't fit in the booth. Rolling can give a good finish and is easily applied by the average person. I don't think I would use anything but automotive grade paint. The shear labor involved in sanding and prepping a car for paint requires me to try to make it last You could probably get an Acrylic Enamel for little more than twice the cost and it will last 5 times as long and have a better finish and be mixed to match OEM.
I do like the do it yourself spirit. Can't wait for the finished photos.

Mike

I work in a body shop also, yeah if you check around the mom and pop supply stores will sell you a half gallon of paint cheap about $75 and by the time you add reducer it will make close to a gallon. They sell clear coat "kits" for under a hundred bucks and it includes the activator.
 
Last edited:
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top