Well, It was sugested that others including myself should put a tech article on a Front Mount Intercooler install, well I'm going to do just that with a Custom FMIC water Sprayer and a Custom Cold Air intake venting
Try to bear with me, I haven't had the chance to get the pictures, just want to get the info out there. I'll revise this with photos in the future.
OBJECTIVE 1: GREDDY 24R INTERCOOLER INSTALLATION
Things you need to remove
-Front Headlights
-Wheel wells
-Front bumper
-Front Bumper support bar
Step 1:
First, to take the headlights out, there are 4 bolts, you can see 3 of them, the 4th one is a pain, located at the bottom of the headlight. Also, disconnect all the lamp bulb wires so you don't rip them when you take the bumper off. You don't want to make more work for yourself later on.
Step 2:
Then you need to take the driver and passenger wheel wells off. They are those horrible plastic screws. Then there are two bolts from the bumper on each side that you need to shove your hands near the well for. They are located specifically near the side markers of the front bumper.
Step 3:
After that, the rest of the bolts for the front bumper are all the plastic ones like the wheel well....there is like 15 of them all around. Ex....Under License Plate, under the lip of the bumper. There are also like 4-5 of them when you lift your hood up...those are easy to spot. Yank the bumper off
Step 4:
now you need to take the bumper support off (the big long black thing you see at this point. There are 4 bolts....2 on each support. One on the top and one on the bottom. It should loosen right up. Depending on the size of the front mount, this might or most likely will need to be modified to also fit the intercooler.
Step 5:
What I did to know where to position the intercooler was I put on the piping first....then the intercooler. You need to mount the sucker. I went to Home Cheapo and went to building material isle and got some flat 2 foot bracket....who knows what they are for...but they work and cost me a total of 3 bucks. There were 2 bolts on my intercooler, the one on the top, and on the bottom there is a bracket. You need to support the thing. I also made one for bend on the upper left part of the intercooler where the straight pipe crosses to get to the left side of the plumbing
Step 6:
Then I placed the front bumper over the intercooler to figure out how much I needed to cut on the front to fit this BIG @SS fatboy (damn thing is sooo big, got to love that greddy kit). Be careful when you do this step...only shed an inch at first then 1/2 inch, you don't want to make the job look like crap or cut too much. Trust me, when you fit a large intercooler, the finish work is so beautiful.....just picture it, the screaming of a Turbo Eclipse with this big FAT intercooler that takes 75 percent of the front bumper with the wonders of power written all over it.
Step 7:
This is probably one of the most important parts, the Greddy Stencil....
Unfortunatly for me, I got my intercooler kit used but in well taken care of condition without a stencil, so I had to make one by blowing up a greddy picture off of google. Painted it blue...looks so perfect. I also repainted all the pipes Greddy Blue, the pipe that crosses the intercooler to the opposite side of the plumbing i wanted visible on the front bumper. Tighten all the couplers and make sure everything is secure. If you have to, make certain of everything, Do a boost leak test to make sure all clamps and couplings are married to the pipes.
***NOTE***
If you want to do the Custom cold air ducks, then leave the wheel wells apart for ease of installation.
OBJECTIVE B: INTERCOOLER SPRAYER
Materials needed (founded at home cheapo plumbing isle and electrical)
-2 open/shut valves
-2 T's
-a push switch to mount underneath the throttle pedal
Step 1:
The Wiper canister and pump is located in the trunk, you most likely new that already. Well there are 2 hoses, one for the rear, and one for the front. You will need to tap off the one for the rear and place a t. Now on the t, place both the open/close valves and connect one to the rear winshield hose. Now the other one is going to be used to run to the front of the bumper. Run a line with another t if you are going to use 2 sprayer nozzles or just keep the line with one nozzle. You need to mount them so that they spray evenly on the intercooler. I used 2 Blue L.E.D winshield sprayers you see on the Fart Can powered Rice Burners (AKA Honda's). I mounted those under the bumper in an angle that would spray the cooler.
Step 2:
Now you need to hook up the electrical part. The idea i used was to connect a switch to the pedal and when you go to "WOT", the sprayer would turn on. You need to tap that switch off the switch button used to spray the rear window.
Step 3:
when you want to use the sprayer, you just the valve off of the rear winshield hose and open the valve up for the hose you ran to the front of the car. Make sure you use a sealant paste when using T's and valves. Thats why I mentioned to put the water lines outside, we don't want any electrical fires
OBEJECTIVE C: CUSTOM COLD AIR VENTING
Materials
-a 90 degree Venting duck
-a straight venting duck
-Dremel with Macenary Blade
-Shop Vac
-Zip Ties
-Duck tape
-sheet metal cutters
Now that you have your little wheaties box cooler out, you have a nice little space opened to insert some venting to bring the cold air to your filter. I'm going to brag and tell everyone i have a nice KN filter with an injen intake pipe wrapped in Exhaust heat wrap.
The Heat wrap is a good idea, it will keep the cold air inside the pipe. Although its a short distance to the turbo anyways, underhood temperatures can get pretty high.
Step 1:
The 90' bend is going to be used where the entrance of your bumper is located that provided that air supply to you Lucky Charms box. Its going to direct the air towards the intake filter (if you havent noticed....we will be cutting a nice good size hole where the filter lays over, thats another step) Use the straight venting piece if needed to bring it to the frame. We need to keep an inch extra on it so we can cut slits on the top and bend them to keep the pipe on the frame and prevent it from falling down.
Step 2:
We need to guestimate how big and where the circle is goign to be cut out on the frame. I used a Dremel to do this with a Macenary blade. Make sure that you don't have metal shavings laying around. Paper towels and that Home Cheapo bag you have will be good to cover the intake filter and other various lines.
Step 3:
Lets mount the ducking....seriously....I just used a bunch of tip ties and ducktape....we don't need to go crazy with this...just make sure that it stays on. What we do need to go crazy is cutting the slits on that xtra inch I mentioned. This is goign to prevent it from falling downward....if you feel like it won't work, a couple of self tapping screws will do well here
Step 4:
Use a Shop Vac and clean everything. Make sure you get shavings near the filter. Connect everything back up and clean again....very key to have a clean engine
Now... if you completed these objectives, you should be able to bring your boost up and enjoy the wonders of DSM. I really do hope that everyone uses this article and replies with feedback and questions so that I can revise and clear information about anything. I'm not that new to the DSM community, but I am new to DSMtuners. I'm always have time to help a fellow DSMer as much as I can. If anyquestions about anything of the following, just establish a ways of communicating and I'll be glad
THANKZ and have fun.....How was everyone's Thanksgiving?
Try to bear with me, I haven't had the chance to get the pictures, just want to get the info out there. I'll revise this with photos in the future.
OBJECTIVE 1: GREDDY 24R INTERCOOLER INSTALLATION
Things you need to remove
-Front Headlights
-Wheel wells
-Front bumper
-Front Bumper support bar
Step 1:
First, to take the headlights out, there are 4 bolts, you can see 3 of them, the 4th one is a pain, located at the bottom of the headlight. Also, disconnect all the lamp bulb wires so you don't rip them when you take the bumper off. You don't want to make more work for yourself later on.
Step 2:
Then you need to take the driver and passenger wheel wells off. They are those horrible plastic screws. Then there are two bolts from the bumper on each side that you need to shove your hands near the well for. They are located specifically near the side markers of the front bumper.
Step 3:
After that, the rest of the bolts for the front bumper are all the plastic ones like the wheel well....there is like 15 of them all around. Ex....Under License Plate, under the lip of the bumper. There are also like 4-5 of them when you lift your hood up...those are easy to spot. Yank the bumper off
Step 4:
now you need to take the bumper support off (the big long black thing you see at this point. There are 4 bolts....2 on each support. One on the top and one on the bottom. It should loosen right up. Depending on the size of the front mount, this might or most likely will need to be modified to also fit the intercooler.
Step 5:
What I did to know where to position the intercooler was I put on the piping first....then the intercooler. You need to mount the sucker. I went to Home Cheapo and went to building material isle and got some flat 2 foot bracket....who knows what they are for...but they work and cost me a total of 3 bucks. There were 2 bolts on my intercooler, the one on the top, and on the bottom there is a bracket. You need to support the thing. I also made one for bend on the upper left part of the intercooler where the straight pipe crosses to get to the left side of the plumbing
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Step 6:
Then I placed the front bumper over the intercooler to figure out how much I needed to cut on the front to fit this BIG @SS fatboy (damn thing is sooo big, got to love that greddy kit). Be careful when you do this step...only shed an inch at first then 1/2 inch, you don't want to make the job look like crap or cut too much. Trust me, when you fit a large intercooler, the finish work is so beautiful.....just picture it, the screaming of a Turbo Eclipse with this big FAT intercooler that takes 75 percent of the front bumper with the wonders of power written all over it.
Step 7:
This is probably one of the most important parts, the Greddy Stencil....
Unfortunatly for me, I got my intercooler kit used but in well taken care of condition without a stencil, so I had to make one by blowing up a greddy picture off of google. Painted it blue...looks so perfect. I also repainted all the pipes Greddy Blue, the pipe that crosses the intercooler to the opposite side of the plumbing i wanted visible on the front bumper. Tighten all the couplers and make sure everything is secure. If you have to, make certain of everything, Do a boost leak test to make sure all clamps and couplings are married to the pipes.***NOTE***
If you want to do the Custom cold air ducks, then leave the wheel wells apart for ease of installation.
OBJECTIVE B: INTERCOOLER SPRAYER
Materials needed (founded at home cheapo plumbing isle and electrical)
-2 open/shut valves
-2 T's
-a push switch to mount underneath the throttle pedal
Step 1:
The Wiper canister and pump is located in the trunk, you most likely new that already. Well there are 2 hoses, one for the rear, and one for the front. You will need to tap off the one for the rear and place a t. Now on the t, place both the open/close valves and connect one to the rear winshield hose. Now the other one is going to be used to run to the front of the bumper. Run a line with another t if you are going to use 2 sprayer nozzles or just keep the line with one nozzle. You need to mount them so that they spray evenly on the intercooler. I used 2 Blue L.E.D winshield sprayers you see on the Fart Can powered Rice Burners (AKA Honda's). I mounted those under the bumper in an angle that would spray the cooler.
Step 2:
Now you need to hook up the electrical part. The idea i used was to connect a switch to the pedal and when you go to "WOT", the sprayer would turn on. You need to tap that switch off the switch button used to spray the rear window.
Step 3:
when you want to use the sprayer, you just the valve off of the rear winshield hose and open the valve up for the hose you ran to the front of the car. Make sure you use a sealant paste when using T's and valves. Thats why I mentioned to put the water lines outside, we don't want any electrical fires
OBEJECTIVE C: CUSTOM COLD AIR VENTING
Materials
-a 90 degree Venting duck
-a straight venting duck
-Dremel with Macenary Blade
-Shop Vac
-Zip Ties
-Duck tape
-sheet metal cutters
Now that you have your little wheaties box cooler out, you have a nice little space opened to insert some venting to bring the cold air to your filter. I'm going to brag and tell everyone i have a nice KN filter with an injen intake pipe wrapped in Exhaust heat wrap.
The Heat wrap is a good idea, it will keep the cold air inside the pipe. Although its a short distance to the turbo anyways, underhood temperatures can get pretty high.
Step 1:
The 90' bend is going to be used where the entrance of your bumper is located that provided that air supply to you Lucky Charms box. Its going to direct the air towards the intake filter (if you havent noticed....we will be cutting a nice good size hole where the filter lays over, thats another step) Use the straight venting piece if needed to bring it to the frame. We need to keep an inch extra on it so we can cut slits on the top and bend them to keep the pipe on the frame and prevent it from falling down.
Step 2:
We need to guestimate how big and where the circle is goign to be cut out on the frame. I used a Dremel to do this with a Macenary blade. Make sure that you don't have metal shavings laying around. Paper towels and that Home Cheapo bag you have will be good to cover the intake filter and other various lines.
Step 3:
Lets mount the ducking....seriously....I just used a bunch of tip ties and ducktape....we don't need to go crazy with this...just make sure that it stays on. What we do need to go crazy is cutting the slits on that xtra inch I mentioned. This is goign to prevent it from falling downward....if you feel like it won't work, a couple of self tapping screws will do well here
Step 4:
Use a Shop Vac and clean everything. Make sure you get shavings near the filter. Connect everything back up and clean again....very key to have a clean engine
Now... if you completed these objectives, you should be able to bring your boost up and enjoy the wonders of DSM. I really do hope that everyone uses this article and replies with feedback and questions so that I can revise and clear information about anything. I'm not that new to the DSM community, but I am new to DSMtuners. I'm always have time to help a fellow DSMer as much as I can. If anyquestions about anything of the following, just establish a ways of communicating and I'll be glad
THANKZ and have fun.....How was everyone's Thanksgiving?
