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car wont go into gear

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gsx4357

10+ Year Contributor
103
0
Sep 26, 2010
maricopa, Arizona
hey guys im have a problem with my clutch...i just changed the master and slave cylinder in it and bled everything through and adjusted it. i took the car for a drive and it was fine. then i turn it off and 5 minutes later i turn it on and try again and it wont go into gear again. i adjusted it by tightening it until i couldnt depress the slave anymore and then loosened it by a half a turn. i bled it first at the master cylinder and then when there wasnt anymore air coming through i bled it and the slave until it was only fluid. bottom line is...it will go into gear sometimes when you make some kind of adjustment...other than that it wont into gear at all. any ideas?
 
I've had this issue many times, and every time it's just matter of MORE BLEEDING :( I know it sucks and when you think you've blead it all you realize you haven't and get mad.. but there's a couple areas where air can "pocket" and get into the system easily again. ONe is at the master where the plastic cap goes on it and the other although i cn't describe it the way you bleed it is when some one is holding the pedal down you push on the slave's arm and depress the slave all the way into it's self while the bleeder is open.. close the bleeder and then release it and the spring inside will cause it to extend back out and draw fluid into the air pocket that's always there.

Another thing i've noticed is the line at the master as well as the banjo at the slave where it bolts in sometimes won't seal right and will leak fluid out causing the clutch to stop working within an hour or so's use. The best thing i EVER did for my clutch was to get a -3 SS braided line.. I had built a -4 and it wouldn't bleed for the life of me so i scrapped it ( a local shop told me the only way they could get the -4 lines to bleed was with a vacum bleeder too) SO i built one from a few feet of -3 and two fittings from the aeroquip rack of brake parts and it was like a dream.. The thing bled out the first couple of pumps and was and has been perfect ever since. This is one mod that i highly recomend. I had done the SS line mod (short piece in place of the short rubber pieceon the bottom) and it wasn't nearly as effective as running a dedicated -3 from master to slave.
 
i guess ill just keep trying...i went out there just now and turn the car on and i went into gear beautifully. then i turn the car off and back on. as soon as turn it on for the second time it wont go into gear...ill just keep trying and bleed it i guess
 
That's weird but not un-heard of or un-familiar to my car either LOL

The only way to look at it is that if there's a change in the system you either have a leak in the system or air in it some where. When i was having major clutch release issues it ended up that the pedal was cracked and flexing. YOu couldn't see the crack until removing the pedal assembly because it was hidden behind the "Helper spring", had i not removedthe entire assembly to machine new bushings for it (i was on my last hope of guessing what the hell it could be that was wrong but i had VERY similar issues as you describe)

I thought it was bushings because it would flex sideways allowing the pedal to contact the floor a little to the left on the rounded area of the floor pan. Much to my surprise the arm wascracked about 3/4 the way through, with one endof the crack being at the hole where the pivot pin is for the master cylinder arm to connect to the pedal. I don't think you can even spot the crack wihtout removing the entire assembly or at least that helper spring, or notice it when the pedal finallyt breaks in half as some people said they had happen when replying to my thread about it (i've got a thread going somewhere in this section that has pics of the pedal and how i welded it up to fix it)

BEst of luck man, the 2g's i thought were just prone to having major clutch isssues as i've witnessed a lot fo them but since i fixed my pedal i've had the best clutch i can remember having since the car was new. I litterally have so much throw now that i'm about 7 full turns IN from the point where the slave arm won't move, and i did that because i didn't need or wantthe release/grab point being as super high up as it was once i got the pedal fixed and set it at half turn in from blockingthe reliefe valve. (i was affraid of over-throwing and ruining the clutch honestly LOL BIG CHANGE from what i was expecting to ever have for clutch release in my car with the ACT2600)
 
ok thanks guys ill let you know what happens. im going to go try it now. the adjustment for the pedal is adjusted right as far as i know...make it tight until you cant depress the slave and then release about half a turn.

tried it and didnt work...i just ordered the stainless steel line to put from the master to the slave straight. i dont know what else it could be
 
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