The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Rix Racing

bluish white smoke.....alot!!!!!!!

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

slick06emp

10+ Year Contributor
53
1
Apr 28, 2009
Lawrenceville, Pennsylvania
ive come to the conclusion that i ###### need a rebuild on the turbo....which is odd because its practically new....neways its a t28 and i was wondering if i should get a carbon seal kit or a dynamic seal kit....any ideas?

another issue im having is when i begin to dissengage the clutch my front end (suspension or motor mount) shakes and rattles pretty good...any ideas on what would be the culprit. my struts are tightened down as well....thanks everyone.
 
Sounds like the seals on the turbo went bad, same thing happened to my friend when his t25 went out.
As for the clutch engagement, your front motor mount is most likely wasted, check it out and if it's bad change it.
 
would it be the front motor mount???? when i go to take off my buddy say it looks like my tires shake a little bit.....and it kinda feels like the motor is rocking the front....the other thing is, the turbo is like new pretty much not even 2000 miles
 
well is it smoking all the time? or just after start up or pull off from a stop light?

if it smoke after start up or after sitting at a stop light, it is a good chance it is valve seals/guides

if it smokes all the time, its eather a bad turbo oil seal ir the rings are shot in the block.
 
most of the time its just when i stomp on the gas or rev it in neutral. after i take it for a short run and come back. i can run my finger in my exaust pipe and have a finger covered in black oil????????????
 
You should really bring it in if you are not really mechanically inclined as this could be the begining of something big. If you are pretty comfortable with these things you should

1. Pull intake check turbo for shaft play-little side to side is exceptable in and out is not a good sign. If there is oil on the inlet of the turbo and none really being recirculated into the intake pipe. You found your culprit.

2. If the above goes fine and you have access to an air compressor do a correct leak down test. Buy yourself a guage unit it will be the most beneficial tool you ever buy. Have all the spark plugs out and have a friend rotate the engine from the crank pulley bolt and test each one. This will give you an idea of your engines ve and what is leaking. For the veicle to actually be burning oil i would look for a cylinder where you here little coming out the throttle body(leaky intake valves) or it coming out your exhaust(leaky exhaust valves) but still are seeing more that 30 percent leak down. Anything above this would suggest enough blow by to show burning. If results seem a little weird just post up what you are seeing and someone will be able to diagnose this for you, because things like headgasket have signature signs such as blowing out coolant or oil and coolant mixing, but if these dont happen and it isn't an obvious headgasket in such a way that when you pressurize one cylinder air comes out of one of the nearby ones it can be hard to diagnose.

3. If all that goes well, which it wont sorry to tell you unless you have leaky valve seals and just unable to explain what it is doing well. So at this point if your turbo isnt leaking and oil is not passing rings your going to have to look for more obscure things. One possibility in this case if the two problems you stated are related is a severe case of crankwalk(I think its overrated, but it does happen). The reason i suggest this is it would explain your engagement problems a little and if the above is good oil has to be coming from somewhere and if its not leaking in your tests its unlikely, but possible at stop lights and hard acceleration as you said, engagement of the clutch could move your crank as much as 30 thousandths with the veicle still able to run causing your rings to briefly stop sealing. I have never seen this happen, but if it is the case you will know cause soon it will get much worse.
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top