v8s_are_slow
20+ Year Contributor
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- 266
- Sep 30, 2002
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Panama City,
Florida
P.S. The systems differ from the 95 to 99.
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I don't but after looking around i realized that the 99 gsts have the evap canister in the tank, and the gsx have it behind the front bumper driver side. Which means . . . I have no canister and vent solenoid on my car. Im thinking of just doing the evap and egr delete since itll be easier than hunting down and adding a gsx canister to the evap system. What do you think?Don't have access to the emissions stuff from when you did the swap?
Guys still need help, am I supposed to splice the fwd harness into the awd one or replace one with the other, top pic is the mess ive been using for the last year, gauge stays at the half way Mark and works to 3/4th maybe a lil more. Second pic is both theharnesses, the one in my hand is from the donorYou must be logged in to view this image or video.You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.this is what i followed
You supposed to use the awd harness. Looks like thisYou must be logged in to view this image or video.be sure to zoom in and wire it just like i did. My gauge works fine. Theres also a diagram a few pages back. Its the one i used
That one connects to a harness that goes to the driver sideYou guys are awesome ya i have 2 of the diagrams I just couldn't figure out where to splice it on the harness. My only other question is do I leave the marked in red harness not connected to anything just like it's shown in your pic?You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Hope this helps! I can take more measurements if needed.Hey all, does anyone know the lengths of the FWD subframe bolt and the AWD subframe bolt? I'm really looking for the difference in lengths - whatever I can get.
Fantastic! Thank you!Hope this helps! I can take more measurements if needed.
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What do you do about the left rear subframe bolt? Is cutting the cross bar really the only option?I now have another spyder and will be doing the awd swap sometime early next year. Will be the 3rd awd spyder swapped I've done, so it should be a quick swap.
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That driveshaft mount looks pretty good.Got the whole rear end of the car done. Very easy to do just time consuming, especially if the donor parts aren't in the best of shape. Had to fab up a rear driveshaft hanger as well as the pinion side rear diff mounts. Used the fwd e-brake cables which fit perfectly with some small mounting bracket changes. Used all the fwd e-brake hardware/shoes as well. Used all the fwd control arms; had to plasma cut out the bolts on the awd ones. Solid subframe bushings, diff bushings and prothane suspension bushings. First engine start with the new setup was tonight but still waiting on the driver side fuel sending unit plug to come in the mail and I have some new tires to mount up before its back on all four again. Then its onto rebuilding the tranny. Once that's done it'll be solid front subframe bushings, prothane suspension bushings, gsx calipers, and debating an ndd manual rack. And of course making a new exhaust.
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Also I decided to use 2G GSX rear end. We found a donor rear end even though it was rusty, most of the components will be changed out and we sandblasted the frame and it turned out amazing. Also instead of using the 4 mounting points for the rear subframe, my dad decided to use the factory FWD mounting point as well so now it will have 6 mounting points instead of 4. So he fabricated a bracket to weld to the frame. We are also using a LSD rear differential, just don't have it fully cleaned up yet.
I'm currently working on a solution for this. We have all of the components drawn in CAD and plan to go into production in November. But basically, it's a bushing kit that makes it so you don't have to cut into the frame rails at all. It requires you to weld on two studs to the frame rail, and it also utilizes the two shorter rear subframe bolts. Should make the swap much easier to do for everyone.What do you do about the left rear subframe bolt? Is cutting the cross bar really the only option?
I'm okay cutting for the front bolts, as it's fairly non-intrusive. Would I be able to just get the rear bushing pieces? This would be a game changer!I'm currently working on a solution for this. We have all of the components dran in CAD and plan to go into production in November. Bit basically, it's a bushing kit that makes it so you don't have to cut into the frame rails at all. It requires you to weld on two studs to the frame rail, and it also utilizes the two shorter rear subframe bolts. Should make the swap much easier to do for everyone.
Sadly I don't have my own welding machine or sheetmetal shop (wish I did). Plus his extra 2 mount locations were partly due to the entire subframe being dropped away from the rails because of clearance. May not be able to do the same thing with the subframe in the normal position.@spyderdrifter @IHeartMyHonda. You may want to explore what @Mitzu Garage did when converting their GS-T. This is from their build thread:
There are pics in the thread. Here is the link. See Post #33:
Thanks for the tag, feel free to ask anything you like.@spyderdrifter @IHeartMyHonda. You may want to explore what @Mitzu Garage did when converting their GS-T. This is from their build thread:
There are pics in the thread. Here is the link. See Post #33: