T-Belt Tensioner Pulley

[peteb69]

I started my timing belt replacement this weekend, and everything was going fine until it was time to do the timing belt tensioner / pulley. I have been following the VFAQ and have searched tons of forums, but none describe what is happening to me. After I line up the timing marks and install the belt, I move on to adjust the tensioner. I turn it counterclockwise into the belt and then hand tighten (actually a little more or it won't hold. At this point, the tensioner arm is being held down to the auto tensioner by the special tool. Additionally, the pulley is positioned such that the two holes are in the 6 o'clock position. Next, I tighten down the pulley to the specified 48 NM (this is tough to do using the spanner wrench I have, it has even bent the prongs). Once tighten, the pulley holes are slightly moved (the lead hole is at maybe 7:30). Now comes the issue, once I remove the pin on the auto tensioner and back out the special tool, the auto tensioner cylinder ends up almost completely extended, no where near the specified .155". Any ideas where I am going wrong? My friend and I went nuts trying to figure this out, redoing the tension at least 6 times! My next step is to completely start over by removing the t-belt and starting from scratch. I also am going to create a tool for the pulley using the 90 degree pliers method. Any other suggestions? My friend has done a t-belt job before, but years ago. He can not recall having this much difficulty doing his t-belt. Should I be turning the pulley even further counterclockwise prior to hand tightening it (like 3:00)? I don't think I can turn it any further by hand at that step, or should I be using the special tool to adjust the pulley ccw to begin with? This is driving me nuts, I am about the to give and try and find a shop to finish the job up for me! I need to get my car going, it is my daily driver, can't afford to be replacing valves and heads either!!! I appreciate any help I can get.

 

[Frickadella]

You should rotate the engine one full turn and then come back in 15 minutes to measure.

Personally, I turned the pulley by feel since getting any kind of torque wrench in there was a joke.

From memory... if the gap is too small, you're turning into the belt too hard, and vice-versa for too large a gap. It's late... pretty sure that's correct

And I've never bent a pin on the tool so yeah, maybe a little too hard?

 

[luv2rallye]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...5-timing-belt-tensioning-tips-4g63-turbo.html

 

[peteb69]

Thanks luv2ralleye, but my buddy and I studied your tip sheet for hours that day and still no luck. Here is what I am thinking is wrong, any agree / disagree:

- the first time the pulley is turned CCW, should this be done by hand or using the tool? We did it by hand, and can only get the tool holes to about 6 o'clock.

- I noticed that the 90 pliers hand made tool has the one grip cut to clear the A/C compressor. This is only necessary if you turn the pulley to about the 3 o'clock position. Should I be setting the pulley there the first time I turn it?

What I think is happening is that the pulley is not putting enough tension on the belt when we first turn and tighten it (step 28 of VFAQ), as we are only able to turn it by hand so that the tool holes are in the 6 o'clock position. It feels fairly tight, but not "stretched". This in turn does not create enough pressure on the idler arm to keep the auto tensioner pushed in. Once the special tensioner arm tool is removed, the auto tensioner simply keeps pushing up until it is fully extended. Does this sound logical to anyone else? Am I the only one that has ever had this same issue?

I am headed to Harbor Freight to pick up some long 90 pliers to make the tool using my old pulley. If this doesn't work, I will be looking for suggestions for a tuner shop in the Troy, Michigan area to tow the car to and let them finish it. I can't afford it, but it will be cheaper than replacing valves / pistons / heads.

 

[stuckwithgsx]

This may be dumb, but did you put the auto tensioner in a vice and put a little allen wrench through the holes to keep it pressed in? And then tighten the timing belt to spec, and then pull the pin, or allen wrench or whatever out?

I'm just curious because nothing has been mentioned about it yet.

 

[peteb69]

I installed a new auto tensioner and left the grenade pin in while doing the initial adjustment of the pulley.

 

[luv2rallye]

With no other tools holding anything, use 90 degree pliers or allen wrench or special tool MD998767 to rotate the tensioner pulley against the timing belt (so belt gets tightened) until the holding (grenade) pin slides easily in it's hole. Then tighten tensioner pulley and remove holding pin. Then rotate crank 6 times, wait 15 minutes for belt to stretch, and redo tensioner pulley adjustment so pin can again slide easily in/out hole (but don't leave pin in when done). When pin slides easily through the hole AFTER tensioner pulley bolt is tightened and crank rotated, you have the correct adjustment for timing belt tension.

90 degree pliers:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=117421&d=1295035958

Allen wrench on pivot (this for 1g, for 2g place it to go ccw): http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=56211

Special tool MD998767
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=117420&d=1295035958