Street Build She's A Keeper

[TheBrownMike]

updates yay! I LOVE the edm corners! I just put some on mine as well!
View attachment 609903

These cars look SO much better with window tint, I need to get mine done still

 

[Mech Addict]

I can totally relate to your first challenge with this project, that being the fuel tank full of crap. Yours looked more like dirt than rust. I take it your fuel gauge still reading OK? I really appreciate all the interior photos; it's in great shape. I wish my car had started out that nice inside. After all, that's where you spend time while driving... might as well be nice. In fact, the interior is often overlooked for how right they got it on these 1Gs. Logical, direct, but really great style too. Keep up the great work!

 

[TheBrownMike]

I can totally relate to your first challenge with this project, that being the fuel tank full of crap. Yours looked more like dirt than rust. I take it your fuel gauge still reading OK?

The crud was a mixture of small granulated stuff and bigger flakes, definitely mostly metallic. Fuel gauge still reads fine, the low fuel light seems to come on around 1/4 tank, seems a little early.

Started working the FPR install tonight, -6 push-lok line running down to the Aeromotive FPR that will be pretty well hidden under the brake lines and booster vac line. Once the pressure is set and stable, the gauge will be removed, and the FPR will be secured (somehow) underneath the brake line manifold.

Cut the stock return about halfway down. Fitted 1/4" fuel line (tight!) to the 5/16 AN fitting.


As seen without brake boost and cruise control vac lines, which provide more concealment. It will be tucked under the brake lines in the end.


You can still see the gauge/fpr propped up in the back, -6 fuel rail adapter is pretty low key but would still like more stock looking. Might look into making a plastic cover for it

 

[TheBrownMike]

Not a whole lot of updates, been enjoying taking the car out here and there on the weekends, and a few windy roads where I realized the suspension is in need of serious upgrade. It still is overheating on uphill grades, but cools back down. I think its a part-throttle tuning issue, or could be a head gasket issue too.

I sent the old blown motor from the Colt to the machine shop to be cleaned up. They were supposed to put 2g pistons back on the rods but managed to mess it up and install NT 1g pistons instead. So now I'm trying to decide/find 2g pistons to put on or go full aftermarket rods and pistons. That would be overkill for my goals but good safety measure I guess. I have a fresh head from that motor that I could throw on the running motor, along with some head studs and call it good for now too.

Recent stuff:
-Coolant flush, new T-stat installed
-Trimmed a stock style A/C fan to clear the lower IC discharge pipe
-Picked up sunroof insert and wind deflector (needs reupholster)
-Swapping in e316g currently
-Picked up used ACT 2600
-Cerakoted some hot parts

 

[TheBrownMike]

Been busy with a bunch of other projects, but did get her in for some tint a couple months ago! Also ordered a Vibrant Streetpower muffler, opted for the "retro" version with chrome tips for a stockish appearance. Probably going to go with some KYB AGX's for now as well so its at least driveable.

Fresh Tint!

Vibrant muffler ordered, stock as could be for 3" yeah?

 

[Dericsh]

Beautiful car! I just got caught up from the beginning. Great job with it so far.

 

[TheBrownMike]

Alrighty, got the old Apexi can out of there and the new vibrant stealth muffler in. They did a decent job for the price, but press-bent aluminized tubing and not quite sitting exactly where I want looks-wise from the side. Sounds great, pretty much same tone as the Apexi minus the drone. Looks much more stock, while being 3" and good sound!

Picked up an Eibach Pro Kit of another local member, gonna sandblast the coils and either powder or cerakote them, and throw them on the AGX's that just arrived. Should give a much needed refresh for both ride height and control.

Also made two more "patches" to cover up the gaps in the FMIC ducting I made originally. Car tends to run hot during uphill cruising, most likely a tuning issue but figure this couldn't hurt.

Also swapped over to crushed 1g BOV. Slightly less long whistle at higher vacuum while driving around.

Next Tasks:
- AGX/Pro Kit install
- ST Suspension Sway bar
- Possibly go back to clear front corner lights (need to find a set)
- Probably go to stock turbine wheels or FD/Evo9. I'd like to go more "OEM looking" but also wouldnt mind something simple/classic like TE37 knockoff or Slipstreams?

Exhaust update:

Ducting Additions:

 

[Mech Addict]

Muffler looks great to me. You’re wanting it slightly closer to the side? Since these bumpers never had any kind of indent for clearance, as some cars have, only other dsm fanatics can even detect the difference.

Turbine wheels are one of my favorite features of the oem look, and a factor in why I bought my car. Interesting that of all the 1g that have sold on Bringatrailer, I don’t see any with ‘cheese slicers’..?
You’re car looks great, either way.

 

[TheBrownMike]

Muffler looks great to me. You’re wanting it slightly closer to the side? Since these bumpers never had any kind of indent for clearance, as some cars have, only other dsm fanatics can even detect the difference.

Turbine wheels are one of my favorite features of the oem look, and a factor in why I bought my car. Interesting that of all the 1g that have sold on Bringatrailer, I don’t see any with ‘cheese slicers’..?
You’re car looks great, either way.

I think moving it over another inch or two to the right would "center" more between the bumper and the gas tank. But what I was talking about was from a side profile, the muffler inlet should be lower, as it looks like its actually tucked too high at the inlet currently. Very minor, but I'm fine with it currently.

I do like the turbine wheels, they were not as popular as some of the others with 1g's for whatever reason.

Went to install the AGX/Prokit yesterday, fronts went in quickly and looked good, went to do the rears and realized that they sent me the wrong shocks, 734014 instead of 741014. Order was correct, actual product wasnt. So sent everything back for a refund, and going to cough up the cash for FEALs. Overkill but but more adjustable and probably comfortable.

 

[TheBrownMike]

Well, finally got around to ordering and installing the FEAL 441's. Chris was super helpful in answering my questions and offering advice. They originally quoted a month wait but ended up getting them in two weeks, which was a nice. Coming from dealing with off road shocks, I was pleasantly surprised with the quality. Went in super easy, got them adjusted about 1-1.5" lower than stock. Im happy with the wheel gap, and seem to ride smooth and firm enough so far.

First adjustment:

Final Adjustment: 26.75" to top of wheel wells;

 

[TheBrownMike]

Some minor updates but needed to get done, I've had a little more desire to actually drive it since the suspension isn't blown anymore.

-Black Prothane motor mounts installed (except rear, not trying that without the head off)
-Rerouted some EGR and TB vacuum lines, trying to figure out the stock purge hoses still
-Added .025 restrictor to try and get the ECU boost control to function (taps out at 14 psi no matter what duty cycle)
-Added a barbed fitting to the J-pipe to shorten up the WG lines

The biggest issue I've been having is the car running warm, mostly it builds heat on any kind or grade/uphill for any amount of time. I thought maybe it was a SD issue, switched back to MAF and it slightly helped, but still gets up into 223-226* range and at that point I'm pulled over letting it cool. After researching I found one thread where they swapped the thermo switch to the T-stat housing. I had bought a new thermo switch a while back, so I plugged it in to the head in place of the EGR vacuum switch and gently moved the wired over the intake snorkel to it. I'm hoping this triggers the fans earlier as expected, thus bringing the temps down into spec.

Another thing I've been thing about, that I havent seen discussed yet, is replacing the A/C fan resistor with one of a lower spec. Accordingly to everything Ive read, with A/C OFF, it wont turn the fan on until 242*. My thought, is to replace the resistor with one that will trigger that fan to come on at say 215-220* instead.

If switching the thermo switch doesnt bring the temps down, Ill probably end up redoing the ducting and "split" the difference, using the Talon center grill to duct in outside air directly to the upper half (hottest) part or the radiator, and keep the lower half "sealed" to the FMIC.

No real good photos this time...

 

[Dericsh]

Oh! You can maybe test a theory that I have heard about how most of the unwanted vibrations from poly mounts come from the rear mount. Curious, how bad are the vibrations with a stock rear mount?

242* seems pretty hot to start the fan, hopefully you can get those temps under control.

 

[TheBrownMike]

Oh! You can maybe test a theory that I have heard about how most of the unwanted vibrations from poly mounts come from the rear mount. Curious, how bad are the vibrations with a stock rear mount?

242* seems pretty hot to start the fan, hopefully you can get those temps under control.

I don't feel like there was too much of a difference so far, but I'm also used to bumpy/vibe prone vehicles. I am interested to see if it changes once the rear mount is in.

The new thermo switch in the t-stat housing seems to work as far as turning on way earlier, around 185-190* according to link. Unfortunately it stays on basically the entire time the car is running which is not ideal. The car seemed to stay cooler longer but once again got up to the 223-226* range.

Putting the restrictor in the boost reference line got the WGS working in link, bumped it up to ~75% duty cycle and that got boost up to 20-21psi. Car keeps going lean under boost and knocking/breaking up. Adjusting SD cells didn't seem to make a difference either. This prompted me to check all my intial settings, base timing, IAC position, fuel injector sizing, etc. When I checked fuel pressure I realized it was at 45psi, so bumped it down to 37 and changed the vacuum line to be direct, bypassing the FPS. I also swapped to some BPR7ES plugs, gapped at .026. We will see if that helps with both the stuttering and temps. The car feels GREAT when its in boost and not leaning out, so I'm excited to see what happens once I fix the issue. Link HP estimate was 298 at 15* timing and 20psi which is a cool, haha.

 

[92Turbski]

I don't feel like there was too much of a difference so far, but I'm also used to bumpy/vibe prone vehicles. I am interested to see if it changes once the rear mount is in.

The new thermo switch in the t-stat housing seems to work as far as turning on way earlier, around 185-190* according to link. Unfortunately it stays on basically the entire time the car is running which is not ideal. The car seemed to stay cooler longer but once again got up to the 223-226* range.

Putting the restrictor in the boost reference line got the WGS working in link, bumped it up to ~75% duty cycle and that got boost up to 20-21psi. Car keeps going lean under boost and knocking/breaking up. Adjusting SD cells didn't seem to make a difference either. This prompted me to check all my intial settings, base timing, IAC position, fuel injector sizing, etc. When I checked fuel pressure I realized it was at 45psi, so bumped it down to 37 and changed the vacuum line to be direct, bypassing the FPS. I also swapped to some BPR7ES plugs, gapped at .026. We will see if that helps with both the stuttering and temps. The car feels GREAT when its in boost and not leaning out, so I'm excited to see what happens once I fix the issue. Link HP estimate was 298 at 15* timing and 20psi which is a cool, haha.

Hey, Mike! I've been following the build and really like what you're doing here!

I'm about to do the same with the E- BCS and sounds like I'll have to toss a .025 welding tip in the boost reference line. Just need to figure out why link won't connect,and get the csr started, first. Haha.

Sounds like you've got some good, smart fixes going back over the basics and adding the br7es plugs. Definitely lean under load causing the surge in crazy temps. Hopefully going fpr straight to the plenum will assure ithe FPR sees all the pressure and bumps up your fuel under load appropriately.

Let us know how it turns out!


Rob

 

[TheBrownMike]

Been a minute since I have been able to work on things due to deployment.
-Sold the Evo 8 wheels, so the OG fan wheels are back on for now.
-Ordered a ST rear sway bar, and got that installed today. That was a great excuse to try out a Quick Jack I picked up for cheap a few weeks ago, made the job WAY easier! Also needs a new battery after 5+ years...

Finally made a decision on the shortblock thats been sitting in my garage for the last 3 years. Originally it was a big rod/2g piston combo but the machine shop accidentally pressed on NT pistons. Soo went with the same combo I had in my last 1G back in 2008ish, Wiseco 9.0:1 and Eagle rods. Should be more than enough for this cars goals, little better off boost too. I'll probably get some pics of that going in here as well.

Next Up:
- Rebuild spare motor
- Get some new wheels and tires (Fd, Kosei?)
- New battery
- ACT 2600 (once the motor is out)
- 90 style oil cooler

 

[Mech Addict]

I think those wheels look great. Your car is in great shape, and the turbines are a perfect complement, not to mention “correct”. Groovy lift, too.

 

[TheBrownMike]

I found some FD wheels locally, unfortunately when I arrived in person the wheels did not look like the pics, they were super corroded from sitting outside close to the beach. Spent a few hours cleaning them up, but they really need to be blasted and powder coated. I was also debating what size tires would fit the best both performance and aesthetically. Tires are toast, but 225/50-16.

I also came across some Evo 9 wheels, which I decided to give a shot. They have "fresh" tires on them, although they are older (2018) they are free of dry rot, so they will be fine for now until I figure out what tire to run next. 225/45-17

And been slowly plugging away at building the motor, ordered some new hardware, cleaned up some parts and got the fittings needed for the oil cooler. I do need to verify that the correct order or the crank sprockets are B-shaft sprocket > timing plate (angles toward motor) > main timing sprocket > washer > crank bolt.