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(HELP) Intercooler Piping

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marcman804

15+ Year Contributor
484
10
Mar 5, 2005
Cumberland, Virginia
I just bought an intercooler and it is 32" x 12" x 3" with 3" inlet/outlet. I have a turbo XS blow off valve and my car is a 2g gst with the evo III turbo and i was wondering what pipes i should get to install my intercooler. I was thinking about buying the piping from summit racing but i dont know what angles and couplings i need to install my intercooler. any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
i don't know what kind of kits there are for that MASSIVE intercooler but you could always get a shop to fab up some pipes for it or do it your self the size pf the piping also depends on your setup.
 
First things first, take the front mount off your wishlist.

I am doing a front mount setup, though not nearly as big of a fmic as yours, I have a 24" wide one. You would be better off getting a piping kit with couplers off ebay, and just putting it together that way. The kits usually come with 2 90* bends, 2 45* bends, 2 straight pieces and all the couplers you need. Some larger kits come with 33* bends and full 180* U bends that you cut to whatever angle you need. Just look around.

And take pictures.
 
okay i installed it but the piping coming from my driver's side connecting to the turbo is kinda low to the ground. I have a "J" coming from the intercooler and it goes under the crossmember in the middle or whatever its called. and then i got a "90" coming from the turbo "J-pipe" and I have a coupling connecting them together. Anybody have any suggestions on how I could better this setup?
 
I was lookin at my car today as I have to install my new fmic and I think I'm gonna have the same pproblem. If I mount my fmic to high it won't clear the fame on the driver side when I go to make my 90* bend back toward the engine bay in front of the radiator, but if I mount it too low it will stick out the bottom of the front bumper and look dumb not to mention be more prone to scraping and damage which is def not an option. I'm a 1g but I think we are both lookin for the same solution. By the way fmic is a ebay special 31x12x4.
 
here they are
 

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Stock MAF, vented bov. Flimsy supports. Massive intercooler with 16g. Oy where do we begin...

Those fogs are not in the stock location, are they? How do you plan on getting them to work with the bumper?
 
No_Skillz said:
Stock MAF, vented bov. Flimsy supports. Massive intercooler with 16g. Oy where do we begin...

Those fogs are not in the stock location, are they? How do you plan on getting them to work with the bumper?

Don't forget the couplers on the IC...they might last a day or 2 at high boost.
 
CanadianTSi said:
Don't forget the couplers on the IC...they might last a day or 2 at high boost.

Don't know how I overlooked the worms. I think I was distracted by the chrome wheels. ;) I kid, I kid. Seriously get some nice T-bolts.

Edit: I was also wondering why no short route when.... wait, what is this I see... stock plastic UICP and flexi-hose?!?! Dude... c'mon now.
 
instead of criticizing me, could you please tell me where i could find a pipe kit that will work with a 16g? and also that has a flange for a turboxs bov. my bumper fits nicely. and the fogs are in the stock location and function properly
 

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Your IC is very high, but definitely not 34" across (I'm thinking you made a type, it looks like 24"). With only a 16G, you don't need that massive of an FMIC. Your turbo now has to pressurize all that extra space before giving you boost and you might have heating problems due to blockage of your radiator. I wasn't criticizing, I'm saying you should research and know what you're doing before you go ahead and do it.

Your pipe route goes through the stock location, so any set of stock replacement UICP pipes from a vendor will work. A popular one is Dejon Tool. Lose that BOV. You can't recirc and they are poor quality. I have yet to run across one that does not leak. When you order your UICP, you will be able to pick a new flange. You can also grab some high quality couplers and clamps from www.extremepsi.com. Yeah, I know I'm being a consumer whore but they are by far my favorite vendor.
 
hey No_Skillz, you were criticizing my car. My car looks much better than yours with the chrome wheels and its faster, I don't street race and when I do go to the track i put the stock 16s back on. For all the mods you have its weird how my car is so much faster than yours. You are running near 15s and im near 13s, 2 seconds are a big difference, I proabably would put about 5-6 car lenghts on you in the quarter mile, so i must be doing something right. I run low 14s on 13lbs of boost with the turboXS bov and thats before I put the fmic on my car. Oh yeah I forgot to add that i once ran a 14.4 with the 19" wheels, a sub box with two 12" subwoofers, and the stock sidemount IC. well i just wanted to get that off of my chest.
 

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Way to push your e-nuts around :rolleyes: Bench racing isn't allowed here, so don't even try it again. Besides, No_Skillz was only kidding with you. Also, you do realize that he is on t25 and you are a 16G right?

p.s., your FMIC supports will suffice, but the couplers and clamps you are using WILL BLOW off on high boost. Using plumbing Fernco couplers only spells trouble. They are not designed for high pressure usage and will explode. Trust me, I've been down this route a long time ago and using silicon 3 ply and t-bolts is the only way to go.

As for your "piping kit", there are several available for a 16G and downfiring turbos, but you will have to fabricate your own 180* and more to make it fit properly.
 
well back to why I started this post. "TO GET HELP!" Coming from the J Pipe on the turbo to the intercooler I had to use the garbage radiator hose stuff straight down to a j pipe from the intercooler but its going across the bottom of the car under the crossmember, does anyone have a suggestion on how I could do this without running the pipe this way? here is a pic of what im talking about. I wanted to run the pipe behind the intercooler but the little black pipes from the power steering are in the way.
 

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Here's my suggestion:

appropriate radius (2.25" or whatever size endtank you have):
180* ubend with 6" radius
1.5' of straight pipe
90* elbow
8 or so inches of straight pipe
that should get you to your j pipe
 
Wait, I just saw your picture. Just angle your Ubend up until it clears the crossmember (above it) and then shorten your last pipe to the j-pipe. Get me a shot of inside your engine bay of how you routed it. If your power steering lines are in the, gently move them so you don't crack or bust them up and ziptie them out of the way.
 
Well, I'll just assume that you have no sense of humor and was having a bad day today. I don't really want to start a feud, but if you would like to know my list of mods of the time of my listed timeslip, feel free to PM me and ask. I'm happy for you that you're currently faster than me.

Back to your setup; If the PS lines are still in the way even after trying that Blcknspo0ln suggested, you can try finding a larger U bend that will go behind them, or do a hack job with the stock rubber IC hosing.

As far as routing the piping above the radiator support, you will have to squeeze it between the motor mount and the fan. I don't remember exactly if there's anything else really in the way but you will have to trim the stock fans or get slim ones.

Please don't ignore my post before the one you felt like you had to vent. I honestly think you need t-bolts (are your pipes beaded?), recirculateable BOV and replacements for your stock UICP system.
 
I've never seen two 14 second guys argue like this before. ROFL
You're both slow. I was running low 13s on the stock sidemount and stock exhaust. You could probably be that slow without a huge FMIC.
 
I ran into clearance issues with my intercooler piping set-up. That's why it's not done yet. :) But here's my solution, and I've mocked it up and it works: Buy a 45* coupler. This will be put on the bottom of the J-pipe, with the angle towards the radiator. Into the open end, you'll put in your L-pipe or 90* pipe, whatever you have. This will turn to the right and squeeze between the wastegate actuator, motor mount, and radiator fans. Attach the 180* pipe to that, and you're set. It sounds, and honestly it looks, a little kinked, but it works, at least until I upgrade turbos. I just need to buy pipes and T-bolt clamps to make it all work. :) Next week.

You can re-route your power steering lines and bypass the power steering cooler to make more room if you need to. There really aren't any negative effects of it, unless you're doing some hardcore autoX. Here's a link to how I installed my FMIC and rerouted the P/S line: Link. Post #5 deals with the P/S lines. It really didn't take very long at all to get the PS cooler gone and lines bypassed.
 
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