7 Bolt Build Path

[Disturbance]

So im going to be completely rebuilding my 7 bolt and would like to get a solid list going of what i will need and if there is any thing i am looking past such as should anything oil ports be ported out or any tricks like that. Im going forged internals and going to be shooting for around 400-450 hp. So other than the obvious pistons, rods, cams, gaskets, head work etc.. is there anything else i should do to the motor that you would recommend? Also brand recommendation for internals would be great too, i want to do this right the first time and not have to pull the motor out again 4 years down the road. i would rather overbuild than under build. Thank you for all the input

 

[BogusSVO]

Deck the block, clean up front oil galleys in the block. Block off the oil squirters in the mains. BSE
Remove and tap the oil galley balls in the crank, oil port mod for the head


400-500 HP.. pick a flavor or 4340 rods, and forged pistons.

 

[oldmanfrost]

Just search ... the info is out there. Don't be lazy.

 

[Disturbance]

Deck the block, clean up front oil galleys in the block. Block off the oil squirters in the mains. BSE
Remove and tap the oil galley balls in the crank, oil port mod for the head


400-500 HP.. pick a flavor or 4340 rods, and forged pistons.

Thank you that's the kind of stuff I'm looking for. And I have done lots of searching and been planning this out for about 6 months but just thought it be nice to have it all in one thread

 

[BogusSVO]

Most of what I have suggested can be found in this link list.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/450429-bogussvo-how-links-other-info.html

 

[black97spyder]

Manley bottom end is good for 175 horse per rod ... just built a 9.5:1 full Manley bottom end and I feel very safe about it holding all the power I can throw at it.

Also ARP head studs... and smooth your oil galley channel with a dremel (the channel behind where the oil pump bolts to) as well as the oil port mod on the head. (Both can be found under Bogus's how to links)

 

[Disturbance]

So i put together this list, let me know if i should add anything or go with a difference brand on something or any critiques. EPSI stands for extreme psi by the way. thank you for any input.

Full oem gasket kit from STM-$260
Metal headgasket from STM-$140
HKS SSQV 4 from EPSI-$243
Hallman pro boost controller from EPSI-$80
ACT 2600 street disk from STM-$496
ARP Flywheel bolts from STM-$47
ACT streetlie flywheel 600165 from EPSI-$260
Innovative MTXL wideband from EPSI-$179
ACL race tri metal main and rod bearings from EPSI-$109
OEM power steering belt & Alternator belt from EPSI-$25
HKS fine tune timing belt from EPSI-$202
ARP headstuds from EPSI-$114
ARP main studs from EPSI-$63
ARP cam sprocket bolts from EPSI-$16
AEM black cam gears from EPSI-$255
Brian Crower 272/272 cams from EPSI-$399
Eagle H-beam rods from EPSI-$345
Eagle 4340 crankshaft from EPSI-$649
OEM water pump from EPSI-$169
Topline revised lifters from EPSI-$99
OEM fuel filter from EPSI-$21
Prothane motor mount inserts from EPSI-$71
Wiseco forged pistons with rings 9.0:1 compression .020 over from EPSI-$442
Balance shaft elimination kit from STM-$55
Supertech exhaust valve guides from EPSI-$39
Supertech Intake valve guides from EPSI-$39
Supertech Exhuast valve seals from EPSI-$14
Supertech intake valve seals from EPSI-$9
Supertech valve spring and retainer kit from EPSI-$289
Supertech standard exhaust valves from EPSI-$115
Supertech standard intake valves from EPSI-$115
Punishment racing 02 housing recirculated with tial purple wastegate package from STM-$560
Fuel injector clinic 750cc ball style injectors from EPSI-$283
Aeromotive A1000 fuel pressure regulator kit from EPSI-$229
Walbro 255 LPH fuel pump and install kit from EPSI-$95
Glowshift instrument cluster gauge bezel from EPSI-$35
Extreme turbo systems FMIC 10.5" race kit with HKS flange from EPSI-$860
Prosport EVO green/white electrical oil pressure gauge from PS-$77
Prosport EVO green/white electrical boost gauge from PS-$85
Prosport EVO green/white electrical water temp from PS-$60
Prosport EVO green/white electrical volt gauge from PS-$56
Prosport oil filter adapter plate from PS-$37
Prosport water temp adapter from PS-$29

 

[boost97gst]

Ok, That is a KILLER list.
1. BC 272s? How about some kelford 272s
2. Injectors: Go bigger, just trust me, go bigger. We all end up buying injectors 2 maybe 3 times. Get a set of hi-z injectors greater than 1600cc
3. If you have a crank thats still at stock clearances you can have it cut/ polished. Save ya some money. You dont NEED the aftermarket crank at all. Take some of that spare change and spend it on a fluidamper harmonic balancer.
4. 255 is great and will meet yhour needs for a while. However, the wally 450 is pretty easy to install and itll take you much further down the road. Its not as good as 2 255s but i have no doubt itll do 600whp all on its own
5. The HKS timing belt is probably great but gates belts are used on a lot of high hp apps and cost a bit less.

Just thought id weigh in. Nice build youre going to have. You arent cheaping out anywhere.

 

[talonguy85]

Fuel pump rewire and bigger injectors. Link? Downpipe? Catback? Turbo? Looks like a stout build man.

 

[Disturbance]

Thank you guys, I'm planning on overbuilding and doing it right the first time, rather grow into my setup than outgrow it! I have read some bad stuff about 1600s in these cars but figured I should go bigger so I will step those up and get the high z, and I was thinking about doing the dual 255s later down the road. Any benefit on the kelfords over the BC's? And I already have link v3 full, 3 1/2" exhaust from the turbo back and no cat and it has a evoIII 16g on it

 

[WES_393]

Metal headgasket from STM-$140
If you go this route, you need to have the head and block resurfaced specifically for an MLS gasket. But MLS isn't necessary anywhere near 400-450hp.

ACT 2600 street disk from STM-$496
I would suggest taking a look at South Bend.

ARP Flywheel bolts from STM-$47
Don't bother. There's tons of reported issues with the bolts bottoming out. Stick with the stock bolts.

ACL race tri metal main and rod bearings from EPSI-$109
Race bearings are usually best for race cars. They're not meant to be smashed, scratched, and starved like a Street bearing. A good choice would be Clevite P-Series. Mine have been through every form of torture you can imagine and still going strong. And make sure to order these after your crank is squared away.

ARP main studs from EPSI-$63
Money well spent, but I would highly suggest getting the mains honed with the studs.

Eagle 4340 crankshaft from EPSI-$649
I would stick with the stock crank, even if you have to get it cut. It's not uncommon for aftermarket cranks to need machine and balancing work. The stock crank is very well balanced and extremely strong.

Prosport oil filter adapter plate from PS-$37
I wouldn't use this. Our oil filter housings are problematic enough without adding a sandwich plate. Install a sending unit into the OFH.

Overall that's a pretty decent parts list, there's just some things that you could really do without. Such as the Supertech valves and volt gauge. I can tell you 400-450hp on pump gas alone isn't going to be an easy task, and that's assuming you have a truly genuine Evo 3 16g. Switching to a larger turbo or running alternative fuels (W/M, E85, etc) would make things much easier.

 

[killercolt]

I would try to find a 2.4l galant block to start out the build I stead of using the 2.0l that you have. The 2.4l is dirt cheap if you got one of those pick and pull junk yards around you.

Why 2.4l?
Fast spool and a lot more power on low boost. Combine with 10:1-12:1 compression pistons, the 2.4l can easily make 500-600hp at 18-23psi on a small frame turbo with very little timing.

You can get the 10:1 pistons and H-beam rods combo from Manley for about $750-800. Get the King bearings for your build because the thrust bearing have bigger thrust flange than any after market brands. This is critical if you don't want to have crank walk. I like it because the tolerant is always dead on as oppose to ACL racing bearing or Clevite 77. Watch out for ACL race bearings because they can come banged up and warped out of the package. Maperformance is the only dsm vendor that carry the King bearings.

Recycle oil pump if possible but make sure you get the straight cut oil pump gears for it. Make sure you debur the teeth on the oil pump gears. This is the number screw up when building a 4g. Debur the case too. Use 1000 grits and finer sand paper. This will ensure you are not going to have a FML moment.

If you get a metal head gasket, make sure you get a 86.5-87mm bore size gasket. This is because the head can have too much casting shift and the gasket can over hang too much I to the bore. Cometic is the only company that i know make the 86.5-87mm bore gasket.

Arp head studs and arp main studs are a must. You do not have to align hone your block with the main studs. Just make sure to smack the crank to align the thrust bearings before tightening the main cap down.

Reuse the old lifters if you can depress them with a needle. 2g or 3g lifters replacement is not a guarentee fix for lifter ticks.

Get the oem oil filter housing and oil pump case gaskets from extremepsi. Get a new water pump and it comes with a new oring and gasket.

Evergreen sell a complete gaskets and seal kit for cheap on eBay. Get the oem gaskets and seals from JNZ or Extremepsi. Don't bother with STM because they take too long.

BC cams will do the job. People swear by kelford and GSC for a 150 bux more.

Oem timing belt and tensioner. A new crank pulley is a good idea since the old one is one step from going out. Buschur racing carry the OEM crank pulley.

 

[BogusSVO]

That is defiantly an overkill list for a 400-500 build.

Some of the ARP's are not needed unless you just want them for pretty parts.
Keep the ARP head and main studs, I'll bump heads a little with Killercolt, But on the mains, install the main studs and check the line bore, if it is in spec, good, if not then have a line hone done.

Since you want the BC272 cams, you may as well get the BC Valvetrain, valves, springs and retainers. Plus you can save a few dollars.
Same for the cam gears, the new design BC cam gears can be had for less than the AEM.

If you are going to the expense of getting new valves, you may as well get the +1mm os and have them fitted properly and pump some more air.

If your crank is not junk, just have it checked, and polish it or go .25mm/.25mm grind on it and be fine.

Also, just get a good composite HG, OE or Felpro, you are nowhere close for needing a MLS HG.

Save about another $160 on the Gaskets too, Get an EngineTech gasket kit and the Felpro HG for around $100

I am going to mimic Wes and say stay away from the Race bearings for street use, I like the King bearings and have not had a bad report back about them.

Also check out the OE EVOIX timing belt, it is Kevlar backed, like the Gates Blue or HKS and is under $100

What I see missing on your list is timing parts, the auto tesioner. idler pulley, and tensioner pulley Add about $200 for that.

 

[Disturbance]

Thank you guys again on all the help, this being my first major engine build i dont want to have to pull the engine out again in a month. So i will add all the timing parts to my list, look at getting king bearings, and look at just getting my stock crank machined. Trying to do this on as tight of a budget as possible but dont also want to skimp out at all. So the reason i went with the aem cam gears is i read everywhere else that aftermarket ones dont have the little notch or whatever it is to mount the sensor on them? is this true?

 

[WES_393]

Thank you guys again on all the help, this being my first major engine build i dont want to have to pull the engine out again in a month. So i will add all the timing parts to my list, look at getting king bearings, and look at just getting my stock crank machined. Trying to do this on as tight of a budget as possible but dont also want to skimp out at all. So the reason i went with the aem cam gears is i read everywhere else that aftermarket ones dont have the little notch or whatever it is to mount the sensor on them? is this true?

According to Corey from STM, the black AEM True Time gears do have a spot to mount the 95/96 CAS trigger plate. But like you said, they are the only ones I know of that support that style CAS.