Who here runs the gm maf with or with out the screen while spraying meth injection...

[silver bullit]

Who here runs the gm maf with or with out the screen while spraying meth injection Any problems with doing it this way?

I dont wanna run the screen though i know it help straighten out the air to go over the filament.

Any problems with meth injection messing up the maf?


I am thinking of doing 2 nozzles one about 6-12 inches from the throttle body and another nozzle about 6-12-24 inches in front of the maf...

Thoughts?

 

[Avionixx]

General consensus seems to be that you don't want any kind of moisture getting near the MAF filament. If there IS someone here spraying pre-MAF, I'd like to know as well.

 

[turboglenn]

General consensus seems to be that you don't want any kind of moisture getting near the MAF filament. If there IS someone here spraying pre-MAF, I'd like to know as well.

I could be wrong but i think the GM MAF sensor is a "hot wire" type and i think that if you were to get it wet not only could it maybe cause some damage but it will make your ECU think you're getting so much air from how cold teh wire would get that you'd be pig rich just dumping fuel.

I could be wrong on the type of MAF that it is, but generally speaking you want to try and keep moisture/water out of any MAF sensor you use.

 

[Burnett03]

You can't spray meth/water before the maf. End of story. It must be after. Reason is that a GM maf is a hotwire system. When air hits the hotwire on the maft it cools it down, thus reading how much air is flowing through. If you spray water/meth through it's going to super cool it and freak out thinking there is 2 or 3x the air coming through. Not to mention it could corrode it. I'll say it once more so you dont think of trying it.. The nozzle must be after the maf.

 

[Burnett03]

I could be wrong but i think the GM MAF sensor is a "hot wire" type and i think that if you were to get it wet not only could it maybe cause some damage but it will make your ECU think you're getting so much air from how cold teh wire would get that you'd be pig rich just dumping fuel.

I could be wrong on the type of MAF that it is, but generally speaking you want to try and keep moisture/water out of any MAF sensor you use.

You are 100% correct.

 

[44pirate]

I could be wrong but i think the GM MAF sensor is a "hot wire" type and i think that if you were to get it wet not only could it maybe cause some damage but it will make your ECU think you're getting so much air from how cold teh wire would get that you'd be pig rich just dumping fuel.

I could be wrong on the type of MAF that it is, but generally speaking you want to try and keep moisture/water out of any MAF sensor you use.

Exactly. Hotwire can't get wet or moisture on it. You get what is like fuel cut reaction.

 

[RipperXX]

^^^^


So with meth you would have to inject it at the TB?

 

[silver bullit]

No not necessarily but Further down the pipe away from the tb allows it to mix really well.

 

[RipperXX]

Well yea I knew that, but for people like me who have the Dejon UICP that is made for the MAFT it does not leave a whole lot of room from it to the TB, basicly beating around the bush to asking how far down wind of the MAFT is considered "safe"

I may end up redoing my IC pipes eventually to a shorter route but I don't really plan on it any time to soon since the current isn't really that long or anything. Only real reason I want a shorter route is incase my stock fog lights don't want to fit the way the pipes are run right now. And sadly I can't just go out and try to put them on since I am in Iraq.

 

[Burnett03]

I've seen direct port meth/water injection.. Looked really slick!

 

[1992awdlaser]

I don't run meth, but I removed my screen since I have seen them come loose and go in the engine.

 

[gixrman]

I don't run meth, but I removed my screen since I have seen them come loose and go in the engine.

I put mine back in and logged more stable, consistant airflow readings on link. To each his own.

 

[1992awdlaser]

I put mine back in and logged more stable, consistant airflow readings on link. To each his own.

I'm sure I would also. But, that isn't enough reason for me to take the chance of needing to rebuild the engine before I want to.

 

[RipperXX]

Have you checked on a way to help secure it?

 

[scottsee]

I have 3in GM MAFT blowthrough, with Meth injection and DSMlink. I have the logs to prove that an m5 nozzle 6-8in upstream above the GM MAF is not far enough to prevent moistier from interupting that MAF signal.

 

[scottsee]

I strongly suggest putting it on the TB elbow..

 

[RipperXX]

Thanks for the input!

 

[Black_Bullet]

I thought you have to spray meth farther down the intake system to give it chance to properly mix.
Putting it on the TB elbow sounds a bit too close?

I don't run meth, but I removed my screen since I have seen them come loose and go in the engine.

I put mine back in and logged more stable, consistant airflow readings on link. To each his own.

I have two gm mafs in my garage, one of them with a screen and one without that I plan to run soon..

So what im gathering from this is that if I dont run the screen I dont run the chance of it getting sucked in the engine ( how likely) ? Does the screen restrict airflow any? Looks like it does.

And if I do run the screen it will provide more accurate readings in terms of what.. airflow? ( I thought the maft couldnt properly calculate airflow anyways since it doesnt directly measure temp or baro?)

Does not running a screen over the 3in maft alter AFR in anyway?
Besides these two opinions ive quoted; what is the general consensus as far as running or/ doing without, the screen on the maf? Id probably rather not run one if its not that big a deal. Thanks

 

[Avionixx]

There's a thread over at the DSMLink forums about removing the honeycomb and it looks like the most that had to be done was a slight change in airflow calibration, but otherwise performed pretty much the same. I might have to try that out myself.

The screen is there for straightening out the incoming air, but as far as I know most GM cars don't have these running in blow through setups so maybe it all goes out the window when the system is under boost.

 

[Black_Bullet]

There's a thread over at the DSMLink forums about removing the honeycomb and it looks like the most that had to be done was a slight change in airflow calibration, but otherwise performed pretty much the same. I might have to try that out myself.

The screen is there for straightening out the incoming air, but as far as I know most GM cars don't have these running in blow through setups so maybe it all goes out the window when the system is under boost.

Thanks for response, Im not registered in the Dsmlink forums but I just did a little search for myself, from what I've found general consensus is to leave the grid in, but if many do it without any issues that would be negligable, then id probably just run it w/o the screen. I dont want to suck nothing in or restrict airflow any.
I dont completely understand the airflow calibration part, because ive always heard gm maft setups did not properly read/ measure airflow to begin with.

 

[RipperXX]

It has been a bit since I looked at my GM MAF, but I don't see how it's going to make it past the TB, if memory serves me correctly it's not only big but a little long too, and I guess if your like me and got upper inter cooler pipes made just for it, were it flares out into a larger diameter before and after the sensor then back to the 2.5" or so I see no real way it could get sucked in, dislodged and restrict airflow maybe, but not sucked into the engine.

Just my take on it, I may very well be wrong. For all I know it could smash into something like the TB flatten it's self out to a smaller size since it is a comb and get pulled in *shrug*

 

[1992awdlaser]

It has been a bit since I looked at my GM MAF, but I don't see how it's going to make it past the TB, if memory serves me correctly it's not only big but a little long too, and I guess if your like me and got upper inter cooler pipes made just for it, were it flares out into a larger diameter before and after the sensor then back to the 2.5" or so I see no real way it could get sucked in, dislodged and restrict airflow maybe, but not sucked into the engine.

Just my take on it, I may very well be wrong. For all I know it could smash into something like the TB flatten it's self out to a smaller size since it is a comb and get pulled in *shrug*

The one I was referring to came loose and a couple of small pieces broke off and went in the engine.

 

[RipperXX]

Parts of the comb it's self or what? Also did it cause any damage?



I must have missed your post or something because I do not recall reading it.

 

[1992awdlaser]

Parts of the comb it's self or what? Also did it cause any damage?



I must have missed your post or something because I do not recall reading it.

After the whole thing broke loose from the maf just a couple small chunks of the honey comb broke off and went in the engine. It did do some damage to the engine from bouncing around. I want to clarify that I'm not saying it's going to happen to everybody though. Obviously thats not true because of how many people run with the screen on.

In my previous posts I just mentioned about it going into the engine and didn't actually say pieces. So I figured you were referring to my post and thought I ment the whole thing went into the engine.

 

[RipperXX]

It was like 2am when I read this thread again so I may have I duno.