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feel of a race clutch?

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shaneyeend

15+ Year Contributor
241
0
Nov 26, 2003
laramie, Wyoming
My factory clutch was stiff, and felt good when used, after putting in a spec stage 4 race clutch it feels like nothing, i push it in and feels like i'm only pushing on the spring is this right? also about half the time it wont let me shift while the pedal is pressed.
 
My factory clutch was stiff, and felt good when used, after putting in a spec stage 4 race clutch it feels like nothing, i push it in and feels like i'm only pushing on the spring is this right? also about half the time it wont let me shift while the pedal is pressed.

Did you bleed the clutch?

Shim the pivot ball?
 
yeah i bleed it about 4 times, my buddy did then i had a shop do it LOL, i was convinced that was the problem but the slave pushes out just like it supposed to. Never heard of shimming the ball, can you explain a bit further?
 
yeah i bleed it about 4 times, my buddy did then i had a shop do it LOL, i was convinced that was the problem but the slave pushes out just like it supposed to. Never heard of shimming the ball, can you explain a bit further?

I've read that the pedal feels much softer to than stock when you go the stage IV route. Did you replace the throw out bearing? It may not be pushing up against the pressure plate properly which would not allow you to engage a new gear.
 
I"m having the same problem with stage 3+ the pedal feels like there's nothing behind it. I bled it twice so far and same result. Then again when I put my clutch in before(SACHS) it felt really light too but not this light.
 
I had a simular prob. I bought a spec flywheel and a fidanza stage 3 clutch and it wouldnt disengage. Changed the slave bled it a thousand times new tob and still nothing. I finally called both companies and spec had me email them pics of my set up and to find out that the flywheel i bought was for a modular set up and i bought a non mod clutch cause thats the rout i wanted to go. Even though it bolted up and all i had to send the whole set up out to spec and they used something called a hold down table which does god knows what and assembled and sent it back to me and it worked perfectrly right from the get go. I dont know if any of this will shed any light but maybe it will or you could atleast call the manufacture and see what they say
 
Adding washers to the pivot shim ball that the clutch forl sits on, check vfaq.


What kind of clutch where did you get it from, and was the flywheel machined?

May wanna check the clutch master cylinder, and the adjuster arm thing i know its a common problem on 2g do to this part
 
I had a simular prob. I bought a spec flywheel and a fidanza stage 3 clutch and it wouldnt disengage. Changed the slave bled it a thousand times new tob and still nothing. I finally called both companies and spec had me email them pics of my set up and to find out that the flywheel i bought was for a modular set up and i bought a non mod clutch cause thats the rout i wanted to go. Even though it bolted up and all i had to send the whole set up out to spec and they used something called a hold down table which does god knows what and assembled and sent it back to me and it worked perfectrly right from the get go. I dont know if any of this will shed any light but maybe it will or you could atleast call the manufacture and see what they say

Kinda carry considering I have the same stuff but i'm 99.999% possitive I have a non modular clutch and flywheel as I todl them part numbers when I ordered and I got the clutch from them directly.
 
Adding washers to the pivot shim ball that the clutch forl sits on, check vfaq.


What kind of clutch where did you get it from, and was the flywheel machined?

the washers wont fall out? what about shimming the whole slave cylender?
 
My spec stage 3+ is very light, especially compared to my cobra's clutch. LOL. But the feel isn't THAT much lighter than stock. OH and a modular setup comes riveted together just bolt-on, a non-mod is all seperate and you combine the setup (flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate)
 
My spec stage 3+ is very light, especially compared to my cobra's clutch. LOL. But the feel isn't THAT much lighter than stock. OH and a modular setup comes riveted together just bolt-on, a non-mod is all seperate and you combine the setup (flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate)

I also have a stage 3+ clutch and a findanza aluminum flywheel and I bled my clutch 2 times so far and it feels crazy light. I know how it's suposed to feel as before when I first got my car I did a SACHS clutch swap.

I have a 95 neon spec stage 3+ which is what you have to oder to get a non modular setup. Part number SD763F
 
i tried shimmingmy cluth today, didn't work, it was already preloaded pretty bad before and adding to that did nothing. the slave does what its supposed to do when the clutch petal in depressed, but the pedal is to light. it will only work and alowe me to switch gears about 50% of the time, and i can feel it in the pedal when its not going to work. I switching the slave tomorrow morn, i'm guessing that when i removed it the plunger got over extented and ruined it, hopefully it will fix the problem.
 
AHHH just spent 5 hours bleeding my clutch and accomplished absolutly nothing. i must be a total moron, ### i can not bleed it correctly
 
Eh, I'll go again, the problem is Spec. Search around about them. Plenty of info out there (I've got plenty out there).

Good luck,

MB
 
Eh, I'll go again, the problem is Spec. Search around about them. Plenty of info out there (I've got plenty out there).

Good luck,

MB

Understood that spec doesn't have the best rap sheet but I can't believe that a brand new clutch and flywheel would be bad to teh point where it has zero pedal. The clutch would have to be too small or something where the TOB wasn't reaching far enough with the rod all thw way out in which you could just get an extended rod.
 
ok if the problem is the clutch what clutch would you recomend?
 
ok if the problem is the clutch what clutch would you recomend?

I already know he's gonna say SBC(South Bend CLutch)

STage 3+ SPec clutch street disk more streetable hold up to 475trq

South bend Clutch of similar holding power more money and pucked.

That is what I looked at hen makingmy descsion. SBC is known for better quality but def more out of pocket.
 
just an update, i replaced my slave, master and the line. and the clutch works great now but still wont shift right, i think its a tranny sincrow.
 
IF you do replace your clutch, I would actualy recommend the E-Bay F1 racing clutch, (believe it or not). While Slippi is right about the SBC (great quality, great sevice and great response time), for 90% of the 420a's out there, this seems to be the best choice (for the cost).

Check out this linky: www.neons.org :: View topic - F1 RACING STAGE 1 CLUTCH on ebay

and I have heard good about it for years.

While I run the non mod set-up because I like the flexibility and cost. The F1 is probably the most cost efficient for most 420a set-ups.

MB
 
IF you do replace your clutch, I would actualy recommend the E-Bay F1 racing clutch, (believe it or not). While Slippi is right about the SBC (great quality, great sevice and great response time), for 90% of the 420a's out there, this seems to be the best choice (for the cost).

Check out this linky: www.neons.org :: View topic - F1 RACING STAGE 1 CLUTCH on ebay

and I have heard good about it for years.

While I run the non mod set-up because I like the flexibility and cost. The F1 is probably the most cost efficient for most 420a set-ups.

MB

He's GS-T though and 230 crank hp which is how f1 rates there clutches will not hold up long with any stage 2 kit. I love ebay clutches too I was like the spokesman for the XTD clutches for teh 4g63. Just not worth it to buy a stage 1 clutch to turn around and have to replace it because it's not strong enough.
 
He's GS-T though and 230 crank hp which is how f1 rates there clutches will not hold up long with any stage 2 kit. I love ebay clutches too I was like the spokesman for the XTD clutches for teh 4g63. Just not worth it to buy a stage 1 clutch to turn around and have to replace it because it's not strong enough.
While those numbers are true, there have been multiple people who have thrown boost (for thousands of miles) at it and still liked it. Check out BlackRhino's posts in that thread.

It's just one of those anomolies, that for the $200 I would have no problem trying out (of course the labor is mine).

MB
 
While those numbers are true, there have been multiple people who have thrown boost (for thousands of miles) at it and still liked it. Check out BlackRhino's posts in that thread.

It's just one of those anomolies, that for the $200 I would have no problem trying out (of course the labor is mine).

MB

Hmm well if it works it works. I have always been a thoery talks real life walks kinda guy anyway.
 
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