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Evo seats in a 1G

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92AWDTalonTSI

10+ Year Contributor
334
5
Jun 2, 2010
Somonauk, Illinois
I've seen posts before asking about this.

So, today we went ahead and installed Evo 8 seats in a 1Gb.

Simple task only involving 12 feet of angle iron and 16 bolts and nuts.

We used thick perforated angle iron. Not the flimsy stuff.

It takes 2 6 foot pieces. One cut into 18 inch sections. This is for the floor.

The other cut into 4 16 inch sections. These are for the seat.

Before cutting, measure the pre-pierced holes on the angle iron. Make sure they line up with the seat. In total the had 1-2 centimeter gaps between each 16 inch piece. Make a jig to make it easier to measure the holes. Once you have 4 cut. Mount them facing in on the bottom of the seat.

On the 18 inch pieces. You shouldn't have much to worry about. Once they are cut to 18 inches, drill out the front and rear most holes a tad larger to fit the stock bracket floor bolts.

Once done, line up the rear most holes on the brackets. Place a bolt through and tighten it down. Toss a bolt in the front most hole on the 16 inch piece.

Now you should be done. Bolt them in and have fun.

For the seat belts, use your imagination. We are going to make custom brackets for the buckle.

The image attached shows the holes and angle iron orientation.

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Sweet write up, I'd love to see the seats in the car.
 
I also have evo seats installed in my 1g and just love them!!

Great write up man

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This is mine.
CANT WAIT FOR THE CARBON FIBER MIDDLE COUNSEL & ARM REST.
 

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I just picked up a set of evo 8 seats last weekend but they didn't come with the sliders and the 1g seats aren't flat. It wasn't practical to try to fab up brackets for the 1g rails to fit the evo seats so I found a set on the evo forums and all I need now is the angle steel.
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where did you get the angle pieces? and what type bolts? I think I will try this for the Galant Vr4. Also how tough are these brackets if you were to get in an accident? and do they still slide?
-Shane
 
You should ne able to pick up perforated angle iron at Lowes or HD as its used for garage doors. Any metal supply shop should be able also to supply your needs and cut it to size for you for a minimal fee. They also sell grade 8 bolts.

As far as accident coverage your going to be SOL on that. If your passenger or you goes flying though the windshield in a frontal impact the insurance company is going to have a field day with you.
 
I wouldn't trust perforated steel to save my life in an accident. At minimum I would be using .120 thick steel and have it drilled if you don't have the bits capable. If that thickness is good enough for aftermarket car frames, its good enough for properly bolted seat rails in my mind.
 
this is true^, What bits are good for drilling steel? and would Grade 8 bolts be strong enough to hold it together?
 
Any HSS (high speed steel) bits will drill though steel. Just look at the color of the chip. If its burnt, black,blue, your spinning the drill to fast or pushing to hard. Most drill bits are labeled what there recomended for.

Bolt grades are explained here. And you want to use the largest washer(s) to distribute the load.
SAE & ASTM Bolt Grade ID Marks & Properties Reference Table - Engineer's Handbook

SAE J429 Grade 7 and 8 bolts are made from medium carbon high strength alloy steel, quenched and tempered. Used for automotive, structural and high temperature applications; they are the strongest and most heat resistant of all SAE graded bolts.

Read more: SAE Bolt Specifications | eHow.com SAE Bolt Specifications | eHow.com

Besides US bolt standards, the SAE has standard J1199 for metric externally threaded fasteners. Metric bolt heads are marked with identifying numbers instead of lines. For example, a metric bolt with an 8.8 head marking is equivalent to a Grade 5, and a 10.9 marked metric bolt is equivalent to a Grade 8.

Read more: SAE Bolt Specifications | eHow.com SAE Bolt Specifications | eHow.com
 
I wouldn't trust perforated steel to save my life in an accident. At minimum I would be using .120 thick steel and have it drilled if you don't have the bits capable. If that thickness is good enough for aftermarket car frames, its good enough for properly bolted seat rails in my mind.

+1 or your going to be flying out your front windshield, evo mr seats and all:nono:

I also have evo seats installed in my 1g and just love them!!

Great write up man

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what evo seats are those maybe eclipse 4g?
 

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That is not a safe mounting method. Do yourself a favor and buy some real structual angle iron and do it right. Using grade 8 bolts is the least of your worries. In an accident the bolt will rip right through the steel.
 
That is not a safe mounting method. Do yourself a favor and buy some real structual angle iron and do it right. Using grade 8 bolts is the least of your worries. In an accident the bolt will rip right through the steel.

I know this is a month old, but I have to agree 100% here. That metal is NOT going to withstand an accident. Just look at where it is bolted to the floor. It's already deforming just from the clamping force of the nut/bolt.

Also, this is not what industry considers "angle iron" It is bent, perferated plate. Plate that is probably made of low quality steel that one could bend by hand. Please, as black92_tsi_awd said, use ACTUAL structural angle iron. Here is a LINK to what I would use. It's 2"x2"x3/16" A36 mild steel. It's not expensive, it should be relativly easy to cut/drill, and most importantly, it won't break, bend, or tear.

Please, I'm only voicing my concern. I work with structural steel and bent plate on a daily basis, and I have seen the superior integrity of structural steel over bent plate first had, many, many times.

EDIT: You can get it at Home Depot, here is the store SKU # 477643
 
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this is true^, What bits are good for drilling steel? and would Grade 8 bolts be strong enough to hold it together?

I would recommend HSS as stated, or titanium bits. hell, you can probably get by with normal bits, just go slow, and KEEP IT LUBED! if you have to, just get a small flask of 3-in-1 and use it liberally to keep that bit cool.

Grade 8 bolts were strong enough for me to keep my transmission on my 318 back when i had my charger, so im sure they are good enough for your seats. you dont need grade 13.1 roller coaster bolts holding in a seat now, do you?:thumb:

also, put in two bolts per mounting area, about 2 inches apart. get another plate piece to put on there, like a large washer, then put some washers and lock nuts on both sides of floor. that should strengthen it up a bit, but use some better metal than garage door railing. its awesome, just take what you have in to a shop, mark your spots, and they can make you something if need be. cant overdo safety...keeps you alive. an amazing and ingenious write up guy!!
 
This is mine.
CANT WAIT FOR THE CARBON FIBER MIDDLE COUNSEL & ARM REST.

Not to take the discussion off topic, but you apparently recovered your 1g seats. I looked into this many years back, but lost track of the better suppliers our there that had new covers. Those look like they fit really nice and have a deent appearance. Where'd you get them?
 
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