The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Register Log in
Please Support ExtremePSI
Please Support Fuel Injector Clinic

Brake cooling ducts

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

I'm ordering the black ones. Figure it won't look that out of place with the black wheels, hood, fenders, and everything else.

May have a week off to work on it. Starting a new job on the 7th, so my company may let me go at the end of the week with fuel costs what they are.
 
Cioc - That looks really good man. Coming along nicely there. I am looking forward to seeing all buttoned up and done. I say paint them to match the car, but obviously its up to you in the end. Nice job again though :thumb:
 
mavisky said:
I'm ordering the black ones. Figure it won't look that out of place with the black wheels, hood, fenders, and everything else.

May have a week off to work on it. Starting a new job on the 7th, so my company may let me go at the end of the week with fuel costs what they are.
Click to expand...


Anyone find some carbon fiber ones?? CF would look really nice.
 
The problem is that those are just general ducts, they don't have the round tube on the back to connect to the cooling hose.
 
talonTSIDriver said:
Sweet, after I get my car all up and running and any of the current little buggers worked out, I'll start with some brake ducting.
Click to expand...


I have found the stock foglight covers holes are exactly 3-inch. Just hook up some ducting to that straight to the rotor. Its on the front so it will see plenty of airflow. Im not running foglights so its a perfect solution for me. However, my only worry is im not sure its "scooping" enough due to the design, maybe something like a cone (called venturi something?) would help it scavenge air even more.
 
D_Eclipse9916 said:
I have found the stock foglight covers holes are exactly 3-inch. Just hook up some ducting to that straight to the rotor. Its on the front so it will see plenty of airflow. Im not running foglights so its a perfect solution for me. However, my only worry is im not sure its "scooping" enough due to the design, maybe something like a cone (called venturi something?) would help it scavenge air even more.
Click to expand...

That would work if I had a 2gb eclipse front bumper. I like my 2gb talon front bumper. :(
 
Well, these ducts really threw me for a loop just when I was about finished. After I finished everything, I bolted up the wheels and jacked up the suspension to check clearances...no good. The tire rubbed at full lock and I'm really trying to make it so I can still drive around on the street. So I re-routed the ducting a tad such that it tucks under the splash guards. The only thing I'm not thrilled about is that the ducts are now the lowest point under the front of the car but only by an inch. All in all this was a pretty complicated project but I did a little air flow testing (if you want to call it that) with my compressor blow off nozzle and they're definitely flowing pretty good. I can actually feel the air coming out of the rotor vanes. Now for the road test.

<a href="http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/cioc/?action=view&current=IMG_6180Large.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/cioc/IMG_6180Large.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/cioc/?action=view&current=IMG_6181Large.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/cioc/IMG_6181Large.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/cioc/?action=view&current=IMG_6185Large.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i116.photobucket.com/albums/o39/cioc/IMG_6185Large.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
I'm trying to view the pics to see how your the hose is routed....... If it helps, I trimmed a bit off the bottom of the splash guards on my 2g to help the hoses tuck up a bit more.

I'd still like to find an aftermarket backing plate with an integrated attachment point for the silicone hose.
 
hey just wondering how well those work. Do they scrape??
 
I don't know how well they work yet but they definitely don't scrape. I did trim the splash guards. The problem on the passenger side is that the transmission is just as low as the splash guard so I won't pickup any clearance there...and on the driver's side, I have a Moroso oil pan and the extra capacity reservoir is right behind that splash guard. I may integrate a backing plate later on but I want to see how this works first.
 
cioc said:
The optimal location would definitely be in the front of the car. I saw this picture:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


And decided to do some photoshopping to get here:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


But at the end of the day I didn't like the way it looked and figured if the side inlets were good enough for the RRE car, it'd be good enough for me. By the way, my center bumper between the headlights is not cut out...just brainstorming.

And as for the boost gauge, I highly doubt anything would register. An anemometer maybe.
Click to expand...

Where do i get that cooling duct?
It looks great plus It would be so convenient for my set up.

Info please.

Thanks.
 
The duct on the evo bumper is slightly rounded. I called the guy and he said that he hit it with a heat gun and bent it around a pipe to get it a little more of a custom fit. The only problem I see with that is that it will affect the way the NACA draws in air. Not sure how but it will definitely affect it.
 
Thanks for the info Turbosax2.
I am guessing 2.5 should be good enogh for cooling ducts since there is not much space in that area?

Am i right?
 
Mine are only 2" diameter as there isn't a lot of space in these areas. Look at it this way, 2" hoses are way larger than no hoses. By next season I may add 2 more, similar to the top mounted ones Tim runs. They seem like they would help cool the calipers and pads also.

More cooling = cooler, no?
 
Where is this thread at? I thought at some point there was talk of a company that was going to start producing backing plates for the 1g AWD; is that still happening?

I think the hose routing and inlet options can be figured out pretty easily, wasn't the hangup the lack of availability of a backing plate with the integrated hose inlet? That's what I need at present.
 
O.k, so i got my naca ducts from pegassus and isntalled the couple days ago.
I still have to work on the actual ducts and brakes brackets.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


As soon as i get time i will work on the ducts and splitter.

-Manuel
 
So, several months late, I finally got around to actually testing out the brake ducts at Watkins Glen this Friday. Unbelievable! My pedal never went to the floor and I no longer needed to brake check before every turn. I was able to reduce my lap times by 10 seconds or more. (I lost some video footage of the later runs so I cannot confirm the "more" but I know I got faster throughout the day.) Nevertheless the ducts work very well, there is no backing plates, the hose is only 2 inches in diameter and makes several bends before getting to the rotors as you can see from earlier pictures. I think you should all invest the time to do this mod...you won't be disappointed!

tsirider13,
Nice job on the NACA duct mount...I like it!
 
Let me start off by saying that I'm a newbie to this track stuff and I was looking to this thread for DSM-specific info. I noticed that no one has posted data (numbers, temperatures, etc..) to go by. I don't see any numbers, just pedal feel.
 
The only thing I could see is getting ahold of some of those test strips based that they sell. They'll only show the peak temperatures of the calipers probably, but that should at least be indicative of the change. I doubt you're going to see 400 degre drops, but if you can keep the fluid from boiling that's better than any numbers anyone could ever give me anyways.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Zmann42087
Binary EVO VI-IX Brake Ducts
Replies
1
Views
1K
ceedawg
ceedawg
2G Porsche GT3 Brake Ducts Installed on 2G
Replies
12
Views
7K
turbosax2
turbosax2
Potential solution to brake ducts on 1g and 2g cars
Replies
1
Views
562
theamsoilguy
lowell
Transmission cooling
2 3
Replies
70
Views
23K
90fiveGSX
90fiveGSX
schemauer
Better cooling system?
Replies
9
Views
1K
aaronmatusz
aaronmatusz
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top