1G 6-bolt Main bearing questions

[Shtbox1gtalon22]

Was wondering what the main bearing clearance should be with the bearings in std. size ACL race bearings, crankshaft has already been measured and polished right at standard spec.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

.002"-.003" I like them at .002"

 

[Shtbox1gtalon22]

What I mean is like with bearings should it be at 2.24 inches ect.

 

[donniekak]

Measure the crank journal with a micrometer, then zero your bore gauge off that mic. Put the bore gauge in the corresponding main journal to measure the clearance.

As mentioned .002”-.003” is great for a street performance build.

 

[Shtbox1gtalon22]

OK I'll give this a try I only have locking T gages and a caliper at my disposal

 

[curt-s]

.002 here.
If you don't have the tools or the experience with them, get a good shop to check.

 

[Shtbox1gtalon22]

Measure the crank journal with a micrometer, then zero your bore gauge off that mic. Put the bore gauge in the corresponding main journal to measure the clearance.

As mentioned .002”-.003” is great for a street performance build.

Is your Trans built?

 

[Shtbox1gtalon22]

.002 here.
If you don't have the tools or the experience with them, get a good shop to check.

I'll borrow a dial bore gauge but I'm building everything at home which is why I wanna make sure everything is to spec.

What is the bolt sequence for the main studs does anybody have a picture? (1g 6-bolt)

 

[curt-s]

Absolutely should make sure.
It's been laid out what you need and how you basically need to do it earlier. But getting thinks checked by professionals isn't a bad alternative.
Plastigauge can also be used but it's not as exact as a good quality, confirmed accurate set of gauges.
I'd measure some known stuff with them first to validate.

 

[curt-s]

What is the bolt sequence for the main studs does anybody have a picture? (1g 6-bolt)

If you're having to ask that, you clearly don't have the service manual.

Legitimate question that follows one just like that, are you sure you're ready to assemble an entire engine at home? We all started from somewhere, but usually the first step is "get a service manual" or, at the very least, a Haynes/Chiltons book.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/forum/articles-manuals-documents.262/

 

[Shtbox1gtalon22]

If you're having to ask that, you clearly don't have the service manual.

Legitimate question that follows one just like that, are you sure you're ready to assemble an entire engine at home? We all started from somewhere, but usually the first step is "get a service manual" or, at the very least, a Haynes/Chiltons book.

https://www.dsmtuners.com/forum/articles-manuals-documents.262/

the have one download but I don't see the picture of the orientation I'm

The manual I have downloaded does not have a picture of the sequence which is why I'm asking on a forum, secondly yes I have alot of people with engine building experience at my corner I appreciate the concern.

 

[curt-s]

Alright, had to ask, as it's no different than most engines -- start from the middle cap and work your way out in an alternating pattern. Torque value is according to bolt/stud manufacturer spec.

I think I read at some point that the Chilton manual is incorrect in torque value for OEM bolts, but if you have studs, follow the instructions on the sheet.

Grab the manuals from the link above.

First engine I assembled was a 4g63 and zero prior experience, relying on my brother for help. I made tons of small mistakes, including choice of shop. That block and head ended up having under a couple hundred km on it before being sold with the guts of a parts car.

Second one I built solo, and had it for 6 or 7 years. Now it's on my shelf as a backup thats still in great shape. You'll get it!

Don't forget to proper set the thrust bearing alignment.

 

[Shtbox1gtalon22]

Alright, had to ask, as it's no different than most engines -- start from the middle cap and work your way out in an alternating pattern. Torque value is according to bolt/stud manufacturer spec.

I'm using ARP so it's gonna be 20, 40, then 60 as final

First engine I assembled was a 4g63 and zero prior experience, relying on my brother for help. I made tons of small mistakes, including choice of shop. That block and head ended up having under a couple hundred km on it before being sold with the guts of a parts car.

Second one I built solo, and had it for 6 or 7 years. Now it's on my shelf as a backup that's still in great shape. You'll get it!

I understand the curiosity I did sound a little dumb

 

[Shtbox1gtalon22]

Alright, had to ask, as it's no different than most engines -- start from the middle cap and work your way out in an alternating pattern. Torque value is according to bolt/stud manufacturer spec.

I think I read at some point that the Chilton manual is incorrect in torque value for OEM bolts, but if you have studs, follow the instructions on the sheet.

Grab the manuals from the link above.

First engine I assembled was a 4g63 and zero prior experience, relying on my brother for help. I made tons of small mistakes, including choice of shop. That block and head ended up having under a couple hundred km on it before being sold with the guts of a parts car.

Second one I built solo, and had it for 6 or 7 years. Now it's on my shelf as a backup thats still in great shape. You'll get it!

Don't forget to proper set the thrust bearing alignment.

Thank you so much for the great information and inspiration!