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Attention all Fluidampr users

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We were curious about this as well so we measured the thickness of the OEM vs Fluidampr hub areas and were surprised to find them very close. I can't recall the numbers, but it was close enough that the stock fasteners would have provided proper engagement. I'm guessing Fluidampr changed the design to avoid the very problem described by the original poster.
 
We were curious about this as well so we measured the thickness of the OEM vs Fluidampr hub areas and were surprised to find them very close. I can't recall the numbers, but it was close enough that the stock fasteners would have provided proper engagement. I'm guessing Fluidampr changed the design to avoid the very problem described by the original poster.

I ordered my damper 2 years ago and used the stock bolts with no problems. Fluidampr must of addressed this issue shortly after the beginning of this thread.
 
I just pulled a new Fluidampr out of my inventory and verified the hub is now thinner. The new ones now measure .400" or 10mm. I'm not sure when the running change took place though. But, the stock bolts should be fine with the new hub thickness on these.

If anyone is still interested in running ARP's instead of the OEM bolts, the stock length (25mm) bolt part number is 661-1002. If you want 5mm longer bolts for added thread engagement, use part number 661-1003.
 
How much does these pulleys run did not see the price on there website thought I would just ask interested in buying one. thanks
 
Ya I always get scared about prices when there not posted LOL. But you get what you pay for. thanks for the estimated prices on these pullys
 
I guess that would explain why I had 3 sheared off bolts just like in the picture. I had used the stock bolts. I ended up using ARP bolts and locktite.
 
Lol I ran into this thread awhile back . And orderd the dampner and arp bolts. Rrr now I have to check dampner for redesighn. Yes good save! I guess worst case senerio put washers on the bolts if they are to long?
 
A word of caution, fluidampr may have changed the design in recent years. Using the dsm dampener with the arp bolts on my 6 bolt, the unthreaded part of the bolt bottoms out on the crank spocket and doesnt hold the dampener tight to the spocket. 2mm thick locking washers were required in addition to the supplied arp washers to hold the dampener to the crank pulley.
 
I just bought a new one as well. I am using the stock 20 some year old hardware without issue. And made 800hp and took it to 9000rpm nearly two dozen times on the dyno with no issues.
 
A word of caution, fluidampr may have changed the design in recent years. Using the dsm dampener with the arp bolts on my 6 bolt, the unthreaded part of the bolt bottoms out on the crank spocket and doesnt hold the dampener tight to the spocket. 2mm thick locking washers were required in addition to the supplied arp washers to hold the dampener to the crank pulley.



What a headache.

This thread is a good example of why I'll be running an ATI Damper.

ATI - Super Dampers® for Mitsubishi Engines
 
What a headache.

This thread is a good example of why I'll be running an ATI Damper.

ATI - Super Dampers® for Mitsubishi Engines

I would rather deal with the bolt fitment, then the pain in the ass ati damper... god I hate mine, cost me the shootout this year, couldnt get the damn thing off to change a water pump. them 9 freakin tourqes bit screws are ###, stripped mine out and had to weld nuts to them when I got home... no one in the area had a T40+ bit, so we tried to get them with a plain T40 bit, and was a no go.. also the damn crank sprocket has to be pressed off.
 
A word of caution, fluidampr may have changed the design in recent years. Using the dsm dampener with the arp bolts on my 6 bolt, the unthreaded part of the bolt bottoms out on the crank spocket and doesnt hold the dampener tight to the spocket. 2mm thick locking washers were required in addition to the supplied arp washers to hold the dampener to the crank pulley.
As confirmed a few months ago in post #31, you'll need to measure the hub thickness to see if you have an older or newer Fluidampr, and run the appropriate length bolts for it.

The old Fluidamprs used a 17mm thick hub and the new version has a 10mm thick hub.
 
I would rather deal with the bolt fitment, then the pain in the ass ati damper... god I hate mine, cost me the shootout this year, couldnt get the damn thing off to change a water pump. them 9 freakin tourqes bit screws are ###, stripped mine out and had to weld nuts to them when I got home... no one in the area had a T40+ bit, so we tried to get them with a plain T40 bit, and was a no go.. also the damn crank sprocket has to be pressed off.

Damn man I'm sorry to hear that. I know its to late now but ATI sells a puller for the damper and the T-40 torque bit. They are under accessories.
 
Well apparently my fludamper still making a loud noise and wobbles a tiny bit plus all my bolts are arp bolts.
 
The hub was the thick one and arp bolts are the fix that the stock bolts didnt have..."length" maybe i didnt make sure it was fully tight? Or the tension is too high?
 
The hub was the thick one and arp bolts are the fix that the stock bolts didnt have..."length" maybe i didnt make sure it was fully tight? Or the tension is too high?
Fixed the problem, there was a bolt loose obviously too
 
Glad we are running ARP from the get go. Thanks for the information, you may save someones life!
 
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