About to put the 1G together... look good?

[illeagle92]

A while back I picked up an Amazon Blue 1GB that was fairly complete without a head. Bought it from a friend of my boyfriend's who got it from his buddy who said it dropped a valve. The car has been sitting for probably 2 years without a head on it.

The cylinder walls look good as do the pistons. I drained the last weekend and while it was dark, it didn't show any evidence of metal shavings whatsoever.

With that said, I've come back down to Earth, realized how broke I am, and decided to just put it together and see what happens. At least I'll have something fun that runs for the summer and should give me time to fix the head on my GSR...

As it sits:
thermal exhaust and downpipe
apparently has some kind of ACT clutch in there
bottom end and drivetrain all intact
trans seems to shift around smoothly
some oil lines/fittings

Parts sitting waiting for installation:
1G head (machine shop tested good)
intake & exhaust studs for head (missing a few)
FP 20G
FP exhaust manifold
OEM timing belt
OEM timing belt tensioner
OEM idler puley
OEM timing belt pulley
Mitsubishi Metal headgasket
ARP headstuds
Gates waterpump
OEM thermostat
radiator (dont remember brand, got it off my buddy)
walbro 255
Punishment FMIC
uncracked valve cover
OEM alternator (tested good)
AEM wideband gauge
Balance shaft elimination kit
DSMlink V3 & socketed AWD Turbo ecu
STM O2 dump
SD setup
RC560 injectors off the evo




Parts I need:
boost/vacuum gauge
oil pressure gauge (electronic)
AEM wideband sensor/wires
valve cover gasket set (autozone)
spark plugs (autozone)




Am I on the right track? I appreciate any pointers. Is there anything else I should go ahead and do now besides pulling the motor/trans apart? I'm pretty sure I've got everything (less a few odds and ends I'm sure)... just wanna run this by somebody really.

 

[92AWDHX40]

I would say its a good start doesn't take a whole lot to get started, basics and then some are there.

 

[KuckFatrina]

So far so good. You could pick up some injectors from the classifieds here to give you more room to grow since you have link already. One thing people don't really talk about is the money spent on cleaning supplies and all the miscellaneous cost of putting together an engine. Just finished mine and it adds up!

 

[illeagle92]

Oh yeah! Youre roght abput that. I have some Evo 560Ccs already. Not too big but they'll let me get it running.

I forgot abput a wastegate too i thought the 16g was internally gated. Turns out this one isn't.

 

[kchaazz]

One thing I will mention is that you should not use that Mitsu metal headgasket unless both the block and head have recently been surfaced with the proper finish for a metal headgasket. If not, you will have serious sealing issues and will leak oil, coolant and cylinder pressure with the metal gasket and should use a composite gasket instead.

 

[illeagle92]

One thing I will mention is that you should not use that Mitsu metal headgasket unless both the block and head have recently been surfaced with the proper finish for a metal headgasket. If not, you will have serious sealing issues and will leak oil, coolant and cylinder pressure with the metal gasket and should use a composite gasket instead.

Yeahhhh. You're right. Shit.

I have another bare block I was going to build that checked out perfectly. I may swap everything over. But then I need to do bearings and everything else.

Man I didn't even think about that. I thought the composite gasket didn't like extra boost?

 

[kchaazz]

Its not the gasket, its the tune, for the most part. If youre running lean and or knock, it will cause the head to lift and burn the composite gasket. If youre running a metal gasket, youll blow the pistons out of it first. Ive run 25psi on pump gas with a TD05H 18G with a composite Felpro and ARP studs for years and never popped the gasket, but Im careful with the tune. Lots of people run a composite gasket without trouble.

 

[illeagle92]

Its not the gasket, its the tune, for the most part. If youre running lean and or knock, it will cause the head to lift and burn the composite gasket. If youre running a metal gasket, youll blow the pistons out of it first. Ive run 25psi on pump gas with a TD05H 18G with a composite Felpro and ARP studs for years and never popped the gasket, but Im careful with the tune. Lots of people run a composite gasket without trouble.

I may clean it up and give it a shot since I already have it. I know the head side is good and I have faith in this bottom end. Worst case it leaks and I throw a composite on there. Seems like dry without copper spray should do the trick. Tune will be dialed in well. This guy's good. I really appreciate the input man. That honestly didn't even occur to me at this point.

 

[illeagle92]

What about an FPR with this Walbro 255? That's pretty much a must, isn't it?

 

[ErikTande]

What about an FPR with this Walbro 255? That's pretty much a must, isn't it?

Most people agree to upgrade to an AFPR with the 255, but the stock FPR in good working order can handle that fuel pump just fine.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...uel-pump-without-fuel-pressure-regulator.html

 

[Gerg]

I may clean it up and give it a shot since I already have it. I know the head side is good and I have faith in this bottom end. Worst case it leaks and I throw a composite on there. Seems like dry without copper spray should do the trick. Tune will be dialed in well. This guy's good. I really appreciate the input man. That honestly didn't even occur to me at this point.

You should really buy a composite and throw it on there. That block would need decked by a machine shop with the proper equipment to run that MLS gasket. It will never seal right and you'll have to replace it anyways. Composite head gaskets can handle a good of boost as long as the arp's are torqued correctly.

 

[illeagle92]

I did a bunch more reading and I am going to go grab a composite headgasket. I did switch plans over to a 20g and I'm adding a fpr but other than that the plans the same for now. I'll upgrade injectors/cams later, I just want to get it running.

Thanks a bunch guys.

 

[serviceguy]

Are you using a local machine shop? I need my head checked as well, I am pretty much in your situation except I do have all the parts but I'm quite confident my head is cracked.

 

[illeagle92]

Are you using a local machine shop? I need my head checked as well, I am pretty much in your situation except I do have all the parts but I'm quite confident my head is cracked.

We use Haledon Auto in Hawthorne for all of our machine work. From 2js to 4g63s - definitely recommend them!

 

[serviceguy]

We use Haledon Auto in Hawthorne for all of our machine work. From 2js to 4g63s - definitely recommend them!

Thanks, I was going to use them after finding out that Edwin Automotive has closed shop (at least in the old location).

Do you mind posting a few pictures of the car, I love that color and I've been looking for a 1g eclipse GSX forever, how did you find it in this area?

If you still have the stock parts (14b, fpr etc) I would first put it together stock and make sure there isn't any other problem before moving to bigger things, unless you know they're broken already.

 

[illeagle92]

I don't have any on me now, but I will. I love it. Very happy I found it! I do have a 1GB Talon shell for sale also... it's on craigslist right now. It's red and on evo 8 wheels in the photo.

I bought it as a stock 6 bolt bottom end in a car. I got it from my boyfriend's friend that got it from his buddy and just never got to put it together. The original guy said it had dropped a valve, but it certainly doesn't look that way. Turns out there's been oil in there all this time so I drained it and while it's dark... it looks perfectly fine. Not sludgy, milky or shimmery. I'm probably going to put the used 16g on the car for startup, but It's not being driven on the road without the 20g (partly because i don't have a wastegate for the 16g). I'm really just kinda piecing it together.