1998 Eclipse GS Build

[badgoose]

This is the Build Thread for 1998 Eclipse GS Build. Reply below.

 

[badgoose]

So far after receiving the car and going over the entire car. I have found all rust and damages and have a plan to repair/ replace.
I stripped all of the interior including carpets to clean and detail.

 

[badgoose]

Also replaced the wheels that were put on the car to 18s

 

[badgoose]

Engine sounds healthy. But you can tell it’s missing a lot of parts from the engine bay. I will be putting everything back together to make sure all is functioning before moving onto body work

 

[badgoose]

Gonna seal off the vent holes in the carbon fiber/ fiberglass hood. As of now when it rains it rains directly on the ecm and fuse box. I love the hood but don’t really car too much for the openings. Also good was spray painted and the center vent has a panel riveted to it as well as silicone around it

 

[badgoose]

Ok got the intake assembly and coolant overflow installed. Was currently re-wiring the battery to the trunk but the rain the past several days has been brutal.

 

[badgoose]

Came outside and found a puddle under the car, looks like the gear oil that was in it decided to bail…. Gonna drain and refill with atf4 and degrease and clean to pinpoint the leak. At the moment it’s everywhere so I’m not sure where it’s coming from

 

[badgoose]

Update for today, I spent time last night rerouting vacuum lines, I got in the mail the intake assembly and coolant overflow tank. I have those installed. I was able to get ahold of the PO, he said the heater core is fine he just cut the hoses after they were damaged. I’ll be reinstalling hoses for the coolant systems as well as hooking back up power steering and the compressor. I’ll be draining the tranny fluid and filling with ATF and then take it for a test drive to see what else is needed

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Came outside and found a puddle under the car, looks like the gear oil that was in it decided to bail…. Gonna drain and refill with atf4 and degrease and clean to pinpoint the leak. At the moment it’s everywhere so I’m not sure where it’s coming from View attachment 731708

Check the output shaft (axle) seals and the drain plug. Those are the three most probable causes of this puddle. I'd say more than likely the axle seals though. I keep plenty of extras on hand. It's not a good idea to try to re-use one. National Seals #3459. They're always in stock locally since the same seals were used in many Honda and Mopar manual transmissions.

There are multiple other possible sources to this kind of leak, but they're too rare to call out or assume. Like the casing and belhousing not being properly mated, or the casing being cracked. Which isn't standard wear.

If you have any extra 10w-30 engine oil laying around, you can fill the transmission with that instead of ATF. It's a similar viscosity and works fine. While rebuilding these NV-T350 transmissions I use red tacky grease on all contact/friction parts then do the initial fill with 15w-40 high zinc. After putting a few miles on them for a break in period I change over to a universal ATF blend. Most of these fluids are acceptable as long as the viscosity is similar. This transmission isn't picky about detergents or additive packages like an automatic. The only reason we don't use standard gear oil is because the synchronizer linings are a semi-soft mesh material and don't need something heavy.

 

[badgoose]

Check the output shaft (axle) seals and the drain plug. Those are the three most probable causes of this puddle. I'd say more than likely the axle seals though. I keep plenty of extras on hand. It's not a good idea to try to re-use one. National Seals #3459. They're always in stock locally since the same seals were used in many Honda and Mopar manual transmissions.

There are multiple other possible sources to this kind of leak, but they're too rare to call out or assume. Like the casing and belhousing not being properly mated, or the casing being cracked. Which isn't standard wear.

If you have any extra 10w-30 engine oil laying around, you can fill the transmission with that instead of ATF. It's a similar viscosity and works fine. While rebuilding these NV-T350 transmissions I use red tacky grease on all contact/friction parts then do the initial fill with 15w-40 high zinc. After putting a few miles on them for a break in period I change over to a universal ATF blend. Most of these fluids are acceptable as long as the viscosity is similar. This transmission isn't picky about detergents or additive packages like an automatic. The only reason we don't use standard gear oil is because the synchronizer linings are a semi-soft mesh material and don't need something heavy.

I think I found the leak…. Check out the video

 

[badgoose]

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Yea those axle seals are done for. Passenger side looks torn. The drain plug gasket is still the original plastic one, so it wouldn't hurt to swap over to a copper or aluminum gasket, but it may not be leaking.

 

[ethancemer]

That will look great when its all finished, rust doesn't look super drastic compared to others I have seen...

 

[badgoose]

That will look great when its all finished, rust doesn't look super drastic compared to others I have seen...

Thank you I appreciate it! Currently working on the reverse gear working when it wants too which is the odd part

 

[badgoose]

So for today since it’s raining like crazy I decided to figure out what’s going on with the aftermarket double din it has in it. So my issue was if you used the equalizer and put the music to a specific speaker, on the right side of you move it to the passenger door speaker both front and rear would play and if you move it to the passenger rear speaker both front and rear would play as well. When you centered it brother would play. It was super odd. So I went and got a cheap double din to see if it was actually the radio and after further research I realized I had a factory amp with the infinity system. The amp is no longer in the car. So seeing the speakers had torn surrounds I figured why not rewire the entire 6 speakers. Only problem I had was keeping my tweeter domes. I came across a thread about reusing the dome but sliding new tweeters in it. I loved the idea. I didn’t see any pics so I winged if based off the info supplied. So far I have the rear 6x9s (Sony) wired and they are sooooo much louder than before. And I just completed the modding of the tweeter assemblies to hold power acoustic tweeters. Currently I’m running new speaker wire thru the doors. The toughest part about all of this is working the wire thru the rubber gasket of the doors to the inside of the car. But I will complete this.