You are correct about ignition timing. Usually there is a cap on the connector. The 2nd wire looks like idle positionn switch since you have no wire to the switch. It's right next to the throttle body spring.
Last one check the codes again. 3 codes and 2 of them are mass air. This usually...
How about we start with what is wrong? What started this thread?
Stop throwing parts at it. I assume this is a no start? But it does start but dies as soon as you let go of the key?
What conditions led up to this? Did it suddenly start one day? Something else happen? Give us some background info...
We couldn't possibly tell any more than you could. You have to take it apart and look in the exhaust ports. I would also suspect that aftermarket drain hose. Stock line is rather large and not restricted by fittings.
If a cylinder head is bolted to the engine and cams are installed you should not rotate the crank without a properly timed belt. If cams are out all valves should be closed and it no longer matters.
I'm sorry but I disagree that the shop you have knows these cars well. No need to apologize. Call these guys.
https://englishracing.net/
They will know.
If you have a pressure problem and the hanger is suspect there there is something physically broken/rusted with it. Or the problem lies...
Can't remember differences between years but on my 90 when ignition transistor failed tach didn't move. No spark. Car cooled down it started again until transistor got hot again