Tools Needed:
1. Pliers
2. 2 10-16mm sockets+wrench and also the same in wrenches if you have them.
3. 22mm Open-ended socket wrench (or an o2 sensor socket)
4. Breaker Bar (can use other wrenches also)
5. P.B Blaster (or another type of rust removal spray)
6. A way to suspend the front end of the car somehow (I used ramps)
7. A very big vocabulary and the ability to curse uncontrollably.
8. Two 3" exhaust clamps.
Parts Needed: (I replaced mine)
1. o2 Housing to turbo gasket
2. Manifold to turbo gasket
3. New o2 sensor (If you feel it needs to be replaced)
Prepwork:
1. Drain the Oil and Coolant, also remove your MBC if you have one already.
Steps:
1. Get the car suspended in the air however you choose to (jacks/ramps) and get the oil and coolant drained out of it.
2. Unplug the mas plug from the mas. Then unscrew the dump-tube from the intake and disconnect the intake from the turbo's inlet. Now remove the other lines that are connected to the intake
Pic Engine Shot Before Removal of Intake and lines.
3. Removal of the upper and lower heat shields is next.
Pic of the heat shields.. These weren't that hard to remove at all. Once you get them removed spray your PB BLASTER (or whichever rust penetrating fluid you chose) on the four manifold to turbo bolts on the top of the manifold, let it sit and continue to the next step.
4. Disconnect the lower intercooler piping from the sidemount and from the turbo itself and remove.
5. Disconnect the electronic plug to the drivers' side radiator fan and then remove the 4-10mm bolts that hold it into place and lift the fan UP and out of the way. It was easier for me to move around by unbolting BOTH fans. So you may would rather get rid of both rather than just one of them also.
6. Follow the wire that is coming out of the o2 housing and disconnect the plug from the side of the engine. Once that plug is disconnected follow it back to the o2 housing and grab your o2 sensor socket or 22mm wrench, PB BLAST the o2 sensor in that socket and then attempt to get that o2 sensor out. Once its out decide if you want to replace it of if you can reuse the one you already have.
Pic of the wire that follows to the side, it runs over the upper head shield.
7. This step is actually pretty easy also, unbolt the bottom oil line that goes from the oil pan to the turbo itself and also unbolt the downpipe from the o2 housing. Unbolt the downpipe from the cat and then drop the downpipe out of the way. (Removing the oil line from the turbo and from the oil pan made my install a little easier because it then wasn't in the way at all)
Unbolt the downpipe from the o2 housing and the oil feed line from the bottom of the turbo
8. Time to remove the oil feed line from the oil filter housing and from the adapter midway through the pipe. BE GENTLE WITH THIS LINE! IT WILL BREAK!. Grab two open-ended wrenches with one to hold the adapter in place and one to move the smaller connector that screws into that adapter. (The adapter will not move!) Hold the adapter in place and now turn the small connector, it may put up a fight but remember that only one end will be turning. Once you fight this line and it finally gives in and comes undone. You will be removing the coolant lines from the turbo itself. Fun Fun Fun!
9. Look right by the intake port on the turbo and you should see two small rubber lines that connect into it. Grab your pliers and press on the clamps that hold the rubber tubes in place. Pull the clamps back and get ready to disconnect these small tubes from the turbo. I HOPE YOU GOT PAN TO CATCH SOME FLUID! Radiator fluid will pour out of these two pipes and you can take the radiator cap off to speed up the draining process actually.
10. Remember those 4 bolts that you sprayed with PB BLASTER earlier in the steps? Time to remove those. Look to the top of the exhaust manifold Top of the manifold pic. Get your breaker bar if you have one or something to put some extra torque into that ratchet and get those 3 bolts out! Once you got the 3 bolts out you now have one "nut" to remove. Find someone (or something) to suspend the turbo underneath and unscrew the final "nut" to lower the turbo down. Catch it and wiggle it out of the way. Unbolt the o2 housing from the turbo and you can now get ready to install your new exhaust.
11. If you're installing a turboback o2 eliminator exhaust (which is what this walkthrough is for) then connect the o2 eliminator downpipe to the turbo and put it back up into place. Get the stud lined up and put it back up into place (this may be a lot of work since you have the downpipe connected to the turbo now). Don't forget to put the gasket back between the manifold and the turbo itself (It's a metal gasket). o2 Eliminator Exhaust Installed
12. Put oil back into the car and then coolant also. Connect the middle piping to the downpipe and put it in the exhaust hangers. Now connect the rear section of the exhaust and get everything snug. If you want for extra security (sense of mind) install one exhaust clamp where the downpipe meets the mid-pipe and where the mid-pipe connects to the rear section of the exhaust.
13. Now you can check for leaks if you want. The way I checked for leaks was to spray water as my friend revved the car up to 3000 after the initial warm-up of the car. I sprayed the water near where all the connections were and waited to see if any of the water kind-of "flew away" from the seal then I knew I had a leak
.
Congratulations!
All you have to do is connect everything back and your set!
Now go get cleaned up asap so you can go cruising.
Thank you to......
Krystal Boone for writing this for me while I was doing the work.
Devin for helping me with the install.
Scott Wise (for helping me with a couple things I was having problems with)
John (l2rtsiawd) for answering my questions when I called him... and for laughing at me when I figured out I had to drop the turbo to get to the back o2 housing bolts.
What are you doing still reading? GO DRIVE AND ENJOY YOUR NEW EXHAUST!
1. Pliers
2. 2 10-16mm sockets+wrench and also the same in wrenches if you have them.
3. 22mm Open-ended socket wrench (or an o2 sensor socket)
4. Breaker Bar (can use other wrenches also)
5. P.B Blaster (or another type of rust removal spray)
6. A way to suspend the front end of the car somehow (I used ramps)
7. A very big vocabulary and the ability to curse uncontrollably.
8. Two 3" exhaust clamps.
Parts Needed: (I replaced mine)
1. o2 Housing to turbo gasket
2. Manifold to turbo gasket
3. New o2 sensor (If you feel it needs to be replaced)
Prepwork:
1. Drain the Oil and Coolant, also remove your MBC if you have one already.
Steps:
1. Get the car suspended in the air however you choose to (jacks/ramps) and get the oil and coolant drained out of it.
2. Unplug the mas plug from the mas. Then unscrew the dump-tube from the intake and disconnect the intake from the turbo's inlet. Now remove the other lines that are connected to the intake
Pic Engine Shot Before Removal of Intake and lines.
3. Removal of the upper and lower heat shields is next.
Pic of the heat shields.. These weren't that hard to remove at all. Once you get them removed spray your PB BLASTER (or whichever rust penetrating fluid you chose) on the four manifold to turbo bolts on the top of the manifold, let it sit and continue to the next step.
4. Disconnect the lower intercooler piping from the sidemount and from the turbo itself and remove.
5. Disconnect the electronic plug to the drivers' side radiator fan and then remove the 4-10mm bolts that hold it into place and lift the fan UP and out of the way. It was easier for me to move around by unbolting BOTH fans. So you may would rather get rid of both rather than just one of them also.
6. Follow the wire that is coming out of the o2 housing and disconnect the plug from the side of the engine. Once that plug is disconnected follow it back to the o2 housing and grab your o2 sensor socket or 22mm wrench, PB BLAST the o2 sensor in that socket and then attempt to get that o2 sensor out. Once its out decide if you want to replace it of if you can reuse the one you already have.
Pic of the wire that follows to the side, it runs over the upper head shield.
7. This step is actually pretty easy also, unbolt the bottom oil line that goes from the oil pan to the turbo itself and also unbolt the downpipe from the o2 housing. Unbolt the downpipe from the cat and then drop the downpipe out of the way. (Removing the oil line from the turbo and from the oil pan made my install a little easier because it then wasn't in the way at all)
Unbolt the downpipe from the o2 housing and the oil feed line from the bottom of the turbo
8. Time to remove the oil feed line from the oil filter housing and from the adapter midway through the pipe. BE GENTLE WITH THIS LINE! IT WILL BREAK!. Grab two open-ended wrenches with one to hold the adapter in place and one to move the smaller connector that screws into that adapter. (The adapter will not move!) Hold the adapter in place and now turn the small connector, it may put up a fight but remember that only one end will be turning. Once you fight this line and it finally gives in and comes undone. You will be removing the coolant lines from the turbo itself. Fun Fun Fun!
9. Look right by the intake port on the turbo and you should see two small rubber lines that connect into it. Grab your pliers and press on the clamps that hold the rubber tubes in place. Pull the clamps back and get ready to disconnect these small tubes from the turbo. I HOPE YOU GOT PAN TO CATCH SOME FLUID! Radiator fluid will pour out of these two pipes and you can take the radiator cap off to speed up the draining process actually.
10. Remember those 4 bolts that you sprayed with PB BLASTER earlier in the steps? Time to remove those. Look to the top of the exhaust manifold Top of the manifold pic. Get your breaker bar if you have one or something to put some extra torque into that ratchet and get those 3 bolts out! Once you got the 3 bolts out you now have one "nut" to remove. Find someone (or something) to suspend the turbo underneath and unscrew the final "nut" to lower the turbo down. Catch it and wiggle it out of the way. Unbolt the o2 housing from the turbo and you can now get ready to install your new exhaust.
11. If you're installing a turboback o2 eliminator exhaust (which is what this walkthrough is for) then connect the o2 eliminator downpipe to the turbo and put it back up into place. Get the stud lined up and put it back up into place (this may be a lot of work since you have the downpipe connected to the turbo now). Don't forget to put the gasket back between the manifold and the turbo itself (It's a metal gasket). o2 Eliminator Exhaust Installed
12. Put oil back into the car and then coolant also. Connect the middle piping to the downpipe and put it in the exhaust hangers. Now connect the rear section of the exhaust and get everything snug. If you want for extra security (sense of mind) install one exhaust clamp where the downpipe meets the mid-pipe and where the mid-pipe connects to the rear section of the exhaust.
13. Now you can check for leaks if you want. The way I checked for leaks was to spray water as my friend revved the car up to 3000 after the initial warm-up of the car. I sprayed the water near where all the connections were and waited to see if any of the water kind-of "flew away" from the seal then I knew I had a leak
. Congratulations!
All you have to do is connect everything back and your set!
Now go get cleaned up asap so you can go cruising.
Thank you to......
Krystal Boone for writing this for me while I was doing the work.
Devin for helping me with the install.
Scott Wise (for helping me with a couple things I was having problems with)
John (l2rtsiawd) for answering my questions when I called him... and for laughing at me when I figured out I had to drop the turbo to get to the back o2 housing bolts.
What are you doing still reading? GO DRIVE AND ENJOY YOUR NEW EXHAUST!
