Broken shift fork.

so how am i to be absolutly sure what the problem is sense there seems to be alot to check and ive never worked on a cable drivin trans only rod. Besides that it wasent just shifting perfect then bam all 3 went out it gradually got a little worse where now like i said i have to hold the shifter back for it to pop in. Also ever sense the new trans has been in i have never slammed a gear or anything like that just nice easy driving.

well heres what i found when i took a look today... Under the hood there was a bolt that held the holder of the cables to the tranny that was loose. So i tightened it up and it moved the front to back cable a little bit. I got in the car and it felt much better, i drove around the block and by the time i shifted 1-2-3-2-1-*2* tried to go into 2nd the 3rd time it started doing it again and grinding in and also same in 4th and reverse. So how exacly am i supposed to adjust it now? what am i looking for to be correct?

well i adusted it and lastnight and all day today it felt great and shifted perfect into every gear no grinds or anything. Today i put in a greddy type S bov and took it around the block to test it and all was well. I go to come back up the drivway after the testdrive and what happens? it locked itself into 2nd gear, so i yanked it out and it took all my strength as i was stuck at the base of my parents drivway. Got it into 1st gear and into the garage only to find out all the bottom gears (2,4,R) all feel VERY rubbery and wont go in at all. So i attempted to adjust the cable for front to back movment again but no luck now its stuck in the garage because i cant back it out. I called the person that did the cables when he put the rebuilt trans in and he said he adjust the cables at the transmission and never did it in the car like i did how the heck can u adjust them at the tranny? all he said was that he took the cotterpin out of the holder on the trans piece and watched how it lined up with the nub that it sits on. Doesnt remember how he adjusted it or anything which sucks because im sure he ###### screwed somthing up by doing it like that. Any input at this point would be awsome as im about to just take the damn thing to a tranny shop or somone who can get this shifting correctly again.

well guys im supposed to go to my fiances family xmas tomorrow thats a 3 hour car ride and not being able to shift into 2nd 4th or reverse really doesnt ease my mind. I have til about midnight to take care of my problem, somone please let me know somthing i can do if anything besides adjusting the front/rear cable by the shifter sense its already maxed out as is.

Well i posted over in the tranny forum but no one seems to care as ive only gotten one response in two days. To fill yall in i have a freshly rebuilt motor and transmission just under 5K old. Everything was fine up until lastweek it started popping out of 4th gear at random and felt like i couldnt get it into the gear all the way compared to others. The problem also at the time felt like 2nd gear was rubbery and reverse also was getting harder and harder to get into. Well yesterday i opened up the dash and adjusted the shift linkage in there. I added the most slack that i could on the front to rear cable and left the other one alone sense it was fine. Well it looked like i still needed more even though the cable was maxed out so i just said w/e and tightened everything up and took it for a test drive. All was well, it went into reverse easy 1st try and 2nd and 4th were also fine. Well i did some driving lastnight and today and wound up with 35 miles on the clock. I then decided sense that was fine that i was going to install my greddy type s bov on the 1G flange. So i drilled it out and all that and it fit perfect ect and went on fine. One problem i had after that was sense i took my 3" intake off and put it back on now the linkage would hit the intake pipe. So i adjusted the cone to slide in under the headlight piece and it no longer hit. Took it out and reverse seemed a little harder to get into this time hmmm, i took it around the block and got back to the drivway. When i stopped at the driveway to put it into 1st gear from 2nd it was VERY hard to get out of second and i had to really battle it. Eventually got it out and back into 1st. Checked again and had my dad in the car going through every gear while i watched the levers on the trans and everything cleared just fine. So i went to leave again to see what was up with that wierd stuck 2nd gear thing. Now it happens... It wouldnt go into reverse!!! no matter how hard i tried and tried going from 1st to reverse and all the usual tricks but still nothing. The shifter would go over like it was in but i couldnt hear or feel it go in then id let the clutch out a little bit and it would just grind and not be in gear . I checked under the hood again and the levers seemed to be a little rusty so i sprayed some WD-40 on them to lube em up to hopfully move better. Well it made the shifter feel better but still no luck with reverse. I started the car and tried 2nd and 4th, also no luck both grinded. So i had my dad move the shifter again thinking maybe the cable got binded up and broke or somthing but it turned out to be doing its job fine. So i called the guy that installed the rebuilt trans sense it was the previous owner and he says he installed new linkage aswell and that when he did his adjustments that he did them under the hood at the trans, and not at the shifter I dont understand how thats possable without actually like twisting the cable or somthing? It seems to feel to me like i just need some more slack in the front to back cable so it can get it all the way into gear. Now the previous 5K miles before this there were absolutly no problems. WTF is going on and how can i adjust the cable at the tranny side if that is an option? one other thing to note is that my adjust ment was made at the loop end part that hooks to the shift arm and that one locking nut i didnt loosen the other one or move the long center section because i couldnt get that and the other nut apart without what felt like breaking it or stripping it. So as it is now i only have 1st,3rd and 5th and im scheduled for a 300 mile trip tomorrow to go see my fiances family and have there christmas and id really like to fix this somehow early tomorrow morning or somthing so i can get this shifting right for fear that on the way there or back the shifter might lock up again or somthing. Somone PLEASE HELP ME OUT WITH THIS!!!

So the actual shifter cable bracket that is located on the trans itself is tight? maybe loosen it and get it a little more forward or back and retighten. (I think thats what the other guy did for adjustment) What is the condition of the cables? I had mine start to come apart at the base of the rubber boot and wont let it engage. Obviously its not the tranny, since you get the top 3 and not the bottom 3 it has to be in the adjustments. And lastly is this the original tranny to the vehicle? Because there is a difference in shifter base brackets ( under shift knob) betwwen 1ga and 1gb (cant remember the details. But in my 90 when adding a 92 tranny I had to buy a 92 shifter base. Some guys get them to work w/o swapping base brackets but I have had no such luck. Had to do it in about 4 different cars. But check it out and let us know!

I am really thinking its got to be the cables! Even if there is a slight crack or tear it will cause the cable to bind just a hair causing it to grind and if it got stuck in a gear possibly broke all the way! Inspect the cables real good and get back to us!

I know that when I redid my intercooler piping to short route I must have made it to tight in there because 2nd 4th and reverse were terrible and sometimes didn't go in at all. Further inspection led me to see that the piping was actually in the way of the cables keeping them from moving their full distance to get into gear. so have some one shift in there for you, and watch the cables under the hood.

yep did that and fixed the problem sense it was hitting a hose clamp on my 3" intake. I forgot to post an update on here which is:
well i figured out the problem today by pulling the rubber boot piece back. This is what i found:

needless to say i need a new set of shift cables, Bought some yest with overnight shipping so ill be recieving them tomorrow by 3:30

I didn't see this post earlier. This just happened to me about a week in a half ago too. I had to put my '90 shifter and cables in until I received the proper cable. (I'm running a '92 tranny in a '90 car.) Ended up drilling a hole in the shifter arm on the tranny to get it to work. I may utilize it in the future for a short shifter solution at another time. I'm still trying to get the selector cable adjusted properly. (Isn't always shifting smoothly.) Bare in mind that the new cable, if brand new, will only have one adjustment cable on the selector, as the other cable doesn't really require adjustment. Look around. I did some searching and found that out before I got mine, so, I wasn't surprised. Fun job though. Nice tight spaces. I took my time and it took me about 2 hours to change mine out the other day.

Mike

thanks for the info but i bought a set of cables used off a 92 gsx. I actually just got home, it took me about an hour 15 min to get the cables out although i had a little trouble with the clips on the tranny brace piece, and took a couple water breaks. Everything is removed now and waiting for the new cables to be put in tomorrow hopfully they come in the morning sometime and i really hope they are in at least good enough condition to get me through winter. I cant wait to get these bad boys in and finally get back on the road, ive been lost without it for the past week

Defiant said:

Broken shift fork.

Click to expand...

1st and 2nd is one shift fork,3rd and 4th is another, 5th and reverse would make three shift forks.Your shift forks are fine.You will probably have to reset your inside adjustments back to where they were once you get your new cables.Good luck,Merry Christmas

And Happy New Year

Hello members of dsmtuners.

I have to ask, Where did you get the new cables from? I have spent 6 hours today on the phone and searching the deadless thing called the web. Every page was full of everything but the cables. This is my kids car and telling her she cant drive it damn near kills me. "all her yelling, screaming, bitching, Fine I am taking your car, I feel like i should be locked a way in a padded room with no sharp things to look at" .... Any help would be great..

This is the best info site on the web for DSM help

Her car is a 1990 Eagle talon non turbo, 5 speed fwd

Thanks

Tyke

Here's a few places online:

http://www.machv.com/1gdsmshca.html

http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/drivelineparts.shtml

The part numbers should be:
<6/90 - MB484624
6/90-94 - MB659866

You probably need the first part number, as both of my '90s have the same shifter and cable. I have to use the second one because I am running a '92 tranny. Your local Mitsubishi or even Chrysler dealer should be able to order for you too.

This may help too:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93739&highlight=Shifter+different

Mike

mwreed said:

Here's a few places online:

http://www.machv.com/1gdsmshca.html

http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/drivelineparts.shtml

The part numbers should be:
<6/90 - MB484624
6/90-94 - MB659866

You probably need the first part number, as both of my '90s have the same shifter and cable. I have to use the second one because I am running a '92 tranny. Your local Mitsubishi or even Chrysler dealer should be able to order for you too.

This may help too:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93739&highlight=Shifter+different

Mike

Click to expand...

Thanks for posting back so fast mwreed.
Dumb question here is there any diffenerce from a turbo to a non turbo car shift cable?
Same car other then turbo and a few eng mods right? Same year on both. $$ was good to from diamondstarmotorsport.com. I will order 1 monday, Damn the parts dealer here wanted $250.00 Canadian and would take a week to get it here.

Thanks again for posting

Tyke

mwreed said:

Here's a few places online:

http://www.machv.com/1gdsmshca.html

http://www.diamondstarmotorsport.com/drivelineparts.shtml

The part numbers should be:
<6/90 - MB484624
6/90-94 - MB659866

You probably need the first part number, as both of my '90s have the same shifter and cable. I have to use the second one because I am running a '92 tranny. Your local Mitsubishi or even Chrysler dealer should be able to order for you too.

This may help too:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93739&highlight=Shifter+different

Mike

Click to expand...

Thanks again for your Mike, I installed the new cables on the weekend and the problem is now gone.
The guys over at diamondstarmotorsport.com were great to deal with I even bought shocks, motor mounts, and other stuff from them..

Thanks again for the info..

Tyke

Hello,

I have a 97 GST and am having the some problems after a stage 3 TRE rebuild. I got the trans in today, and everything hooked up.

Shifting was very notchy to say the least, and I could not get the trans into any gear. The shifter in the car moves towards a gear, then just stops dead.

After some maneuvering I got the trans in to each gear, with the car off.

When the car is running, you cannot get it into any gear.

If I turn the car off, put it into a gear, start the car, and let the clutch out...the shifter will pop out of whatever gear I'm in.


I checked my shifter cables, the bracket on the trans. My clutch is engaging / disengaging properly. Once again this is a 2g, so the shifter cables don't have an adjustment (to my knowledge)

Is there some kind of trick for a freshly rebuilt TRE tranny?

After talking to a few friends with TRE rebuilds, I was able to obtain an answer.

Because the trans is a race rebuild, and is made to shift at higher rpm's, it is more notchy at lower rpm shifts. Especially when a fresh rebuild, shifting into gear is assisted by revving the motor, in my case upwards of 4500 rpm. Then once in gear, I can let the revs settle and take off normally.

Jon @ TRE returned my call and confirmed that there was nothing wrong with the trans or my setup, and this behavior was completely normal. He said to expect things to be pretty smooth after 500 miles, buttery smooth after 1000, and fully bedded in after 3500. So far its an A+ review for my stage 3 TRE rebuild.

not tryin to thread jack but..... i have a 90 talon awd and im not getting 1 3 or 5... 2 4 and R are all good.... it seems the it just isnt giving me enough throw to actually engage 1 3 or 5.... it will grind but wont actually get all the way in... just bought the car not too long ago and i believe he had the trany ran through not long before he sold it.... i seen a lot about guys that arent getting 5 and r.... anyone got any ideas on my situation? thanks alot

It sounds like your shifter cables are out of alignment. Go here and run the alignment. I'm guessing that will fix your problem pretty easisly.

Shifter Adjustment

Thanks MWREED but i think i tracked down the problem... i bought the car while i was on my last deployment and the guy said the trans was rebuilt and only has been ran 1500 miles... so i did some searching and ran the numbers on the trans and found that its off a 91-94... my talon is a 90 by the way... so im assuming this ass didnt swap out the cables or shifter assumbly and decided to leave that out of the ad when he made the sale to my buddy who was buying for me as i was overseas... thanks for the help though

If you are having trouble getting the cables/shifter, as a patch, you can look back at my previous posts in this thread. Get the information on the diffirences in the transmission shifter arms. I had a set of cables break on me. While waiting, I had 2 sets of 90 cables and shifters. What you can do is drill a hole in a bit from the existing pin on the shifter of the transmission. You have to make sure that you leave enough space between the pin and the hole for the cable bushings. After that, I put a bolt up from the bottom to become the new pin. You'll have to use about 3 nuts. One to tight the bolt to the shifter and the other 2 to lock the cable in place. You can't tighten the top one because you need to allow the cable end to pivot. Also, you will need washer on either sid of the cable end. If I snapped a picture of my shifter linkage, you would still see the hole is still there. Technically, it could be used to make it a short shifter, but I would have to modify the shifter in the car to shorten the stops. Otherwise, you could break the shifter forks trying to shift too hard. This will work, as I have done it. It's been years as you can see in the post and I have had no problems with the shifter... even while shifting hard for rallyX.

Mike

i have a 1992 plymouth laser rs 2.0turbo awd 5 speed and i have tried adjusting my cables and can not figure it it out i have to stiff are my shifter to get 1st and as soon as i start leting out the clutch grinding not good but i can take off in second just fine no problems with any other gear just first andone know what may be the cause thanks john

I know this is an old post but its such a stupid problem . Its where the cable gets connected to the hold down before the levers. on the passenger side cable the metal tube is a guide and when i changed my transmission i had that cable put to the side and afetr i assembled it and had the second fourth and reverse problem i looked at the cables and i noticed that the metal tube that keeps the cable in line while shifting was not connected anymore to the u clip area due to the rubber ripping on the tube. so what happens is when i shift the car to second the cable flexes to the side instead fo pushing the lever straight. This is for anyone with the same problem as the origional post on this topic. 'Nough said.