Hey guys. I'm from the RMDSM.org board, just wanted to see if anyone knew. I hear that some mid-90's Hyundai front cover has the place to mount the 2G crank angle sensor so you could put it on a 6-bolt without having to do all the wiring for the 1G CAS. Does anyone know of what particular year and engine it comes out of from a Hyundai?

I had heard that the G4CS is similar to the "Big Rod" 6-bolt 4G63 as being "the same" but I couldn't find out if the G4CS carried over to any later model than 93'. Perhaps it's out of another engine?

this topic was talked about on the 1gina2g yahoo group recently. the car that the front case comes from is a 1996 sonata with the 2.0 four cylinder. it had the 6 bolt 4g63 in it and was also obd2. if this front case can bolt up to 1g six bolt 4g63 then people with 2g cars can mount the crank sensor on the front case like on the factory 2g front case. that means that you won't have to use a 1g cas for a 6bolt swap in a 2g. last i heard someone was supposed to go to a hyundai dealer to see if they had one in stock. maybe by comparing it with a 1g and 2g front case it can be determined if it can work.

lupe

these are some quotes from the dsm1gina2g yahoo group on this subject.

After hearing that Hyundai might have still been using 6-bolt blocks in OBDII
cars, I did some searching through a Hyundai parts catalog.

Turns out that yes, Hyundai was still using the 6-bolt in 1996 in the Sonata,
AND it used a crank angle sensor mounted on the front case.

Part No. Part Description Part Usage Option Codes
21310-33340 CASE ASSY-FR 2.0L 9/23/1995 3/15/1997 1
21310-33352 CASE ASSY-FR 2.0L 9/23/1995 3/15/1997 1

I'm not sure if one or the other or both will work. Maybe one of them supercedes
the other.

You will probably also need the Hyundai trigger wheel that goes behind the crank
sprocket.

I haven't seen this part to verify that it does have the crank angle sensor
boss. I don't even know if the 2G crank angle sensor will bolt up to it.

But if it does, there is a great solution to the random misfire problem. Just
use that front case and a 2G crank and cam angle sensor and you should never get
a random misfire.

Josh

hmm, and I was looking at this last month.

so who's gonna buy the part? cause I can't see for sure that it is a 6 bolt,
all my books don't go into too much detail they only show a 6 bolt flex
plate

Marco

I need to see the shape of the pan seal, and the oil passages.

Justin

Marco, the picture of the engine block for that car on the Hyundai site does
clearly show that the 1&2 main bearing caps are connected, and the 4&5 caps are
connected, but the center cap is not connected. That says 6-bolt to me.

I've been too busy to call the local Hyundai dealers to see if any of them have
it in stock, though. That is the best bet to see one without having to pay for
it.

Josh

http://partscatalog.hyundaidealer.com/images/PartsGif/3x/S10200213B01.gif

The oil pan seal in that location is flat. 6-bolt.

Crank angle sensor is 39180:
http://partscatalog.hyundaidealer.com/images/PartsGif/3x/S20280039001.gif

Josh

So what location on the front case does the sensor bolt? and what part
number is the trigger plate and sensor?

Justin

Ok, 39180 on the sensor sorry..

What about the trigger plate?

Justin

Sorry, I got that wrong.

Crank angle sensor:
39310-35350 (key #39310)

I'll look up the trigger plate again. Can't believe I didn't copy that down.

There is a chance that the 2G crank angle sensor will work on the hyundai case.

Josh

As long as it fits with the trigger wheel and the boss spacing, using a 2G
sensor shouldn't be a problem.

I have a friend that works at a Hyundai dealership. I am going to try to get
him to scarf me a front case.

-Sean

To summarize:

Here is the trigger plate:
Key: Part Number: Description:
23141 23355-33340 BLADE-CRANKSHAFT
http://partscatalog.hyundaidealer.com/images/PartsGif/2x/S20200023301.gif

The crank angle sensor:
39310 39310-35350
http://partscatalog.hyundaidealer.com/images/PartsGif/3x/S20280039001.gif

Front case:
P/N
21310B 21310-33340 CASE ASSY-FR 2.0L 9/23/1995 3/15/1997 1
21301B 21310-33352 CASE ASSY-FR 2.0L 9/23/1995 3/15/1997 1

This is a different picture than before (which I got from someone else. This
one matches the parts I am referencing):
http://partscatalog.hyundaidealer.com/images/PartsGif/2x/S20200213B01.gif

Note that the one on the left has a flat oil pan seal, but the one on the right
has a curved oil pan seal.

I can't tell what is what.

If you guys want to see this for yourselves, go to:
http://dcs.hyundaidealer.com/customer/index.jsp

You have to create an account first. The car you want is a 1996 Sonata.

Josh

If someone can take pictures of these parts, front and back, It would be
helpful. The trigger plate does not look like it will fit on a flat bottom
front case, and the sensor mounting point does not appear self evident. On
the Curved bottom front case, there would be room for the trigger plate and
there are mounting points evident for the sensor.

If the oil passages and bolt holes on the on the back of the curved bottom
front case match up with a 6-bolt block, then we are in business. If the
curved bottom pump is a 2G-7bolt pump, there we are right back where we
started.

Justin

I never equated the need for the curved bottom with the trigger plate. Thanks
for clearing that one up.

I suspect that we want the curved bottom version in that case.

If the oil passages and the bolt holes line up with a 6-bolt, then the question
is whether or not a 2G oil pan will work with the Hyundai curved bottom. If
not, will a Hyundai oil pan work with a 2G transfer case (getting expensive)?

Josh

Oil pan is more likely to interfere with the down pipe, not the transfer
case. Is the pan some weirdo shape on the hundai or something?

Justin

I've never seen a Hyundai oil pan, so I have no idea!

Josh

Here, look at this:

http://www.roadraceengineering.com/2g6boltmotorinstall.htm

There are two distinct shapes to the oil passages between the two blocks.
2G 7 bolt style has lots of curves in it. 1G 6 Bolt style is mostly
straight.

I'm going to guess Hyundai does not make any of the 2.0L parts. They
probably buy them from Mitsu Motor corp. I can't imagine they would have the
magic 6-bolt to 7 bolt pump just waiting for us to find. I would still like
to see a picture of the back of that pump though.

Justin

Unfortunately, it looks like Hyundai's curve on the bottom of the pump is more
severe.
http://partscatalog.hyundaidealer.com/images/PartsGif/2x/S20200213B01.gif
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/eclipsetech/justin/allpartsdone.jpg

I spent several months staring at that page, Justin. Thanks. That pump is
still going.

Josh

First of all, I think that Hyundai did make their own 4G63s, and that they
weren't made by Mitsu.

Given the circumstances that Hyundai had on their hands with having a 6-bolt
engine block that needed a crank angle sensor to be OBDII compliant, a new oil
pump with a crank angle sensor boss was the logical change to make.

Whether or not those changes also make it incompatible with the 6-bolt and
7-bolt parts that Mitsu has made remains to be seen.

Josh

I was under the car today and realized you would be right about the transfer
case being close to the oil pan. Lets hope the Hundai oil pump can use a 2G
pan.

Justin

Oil pan have to be cuted and rewelded again in order o make it work in a GSX, curve in the front cases is more severere than 2G., this is the only issue in the conversion

what ever came of this? whats the verdict?

teh veredict is, that YES it can be done, BUT you have to modify the oil pan if you have an GSX if you are FWD you are fine

Has anyone actually done this? I have a 1g that I will be running rear wheel drive and the CAS is almost touching the firewall. If this works then I don't need the CAS.

j-jamrod said:

teh veredict is, that YES it can be done, BUT you have to modify the oil pan if you have an GSX if you are FWD you are fine

Click to expand...

That's interesting considering 6-bolt FWD turbo and AWD oil pans are the same and all 7-bolt turbo pans are interchangeable. Care to elaborate/clarify?

dsatchell said:

Has anyone actually done this? I have a 1g that I will be running rear wheel drive and the CAS is almost touching the firewall. If this works then I don't need the CAS.

Click to expand...

This is an option for 1G engines in 2G cars; it allows the engine to keep the same electronics found in the 2G without having to do any extraneous wiring. More plainly, it is for the crank sensor found on a 2G engine, not for a cam sensor which is what you are undoubtedly having trouble with on a 1G engine.