Altered Mental Status(1G AWD 5spd)

[dwb]

Yes a sensor. You will see a float in the bottom if it's really low.

 

[92Turbski]

Boost leak test!!!

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

If the brake fluid is right up there and the e brake handle is all the way down, that’s when you remove the cluster and pop out the bulb for the “BRAKE!” light

 

[CrackedDSM]

Super annoying. This week(monday-sunday) is my "short week" so I have like 5 days off out of the 7. Was gonna spend that time driving the car and ironing stuff out, but now forecast is calling for rain on every single day I have off, except Sunday. I hate living in a tropical climate. Give me cold but sunny anyday. Or even cold and cloudy. This whole rain for 80% of the year is for the (snow)birds, man.

But aside from the rant, I'll just take this time to wire up the wideband and try to find the leak. Basically address more of the wiring and stuff. If I find and fix the leak, I can drive it in the rain!! Woo!

Also, question for you guys...anyone know how I can wire my A/C fan to come on when the main cooling fan does? I don't wanna have to flip a switch or whatever so if I can just do some trick wiring, I will.


Edit: Figured I'd add a little to-do list for future me to reference/cross off here, and for anyone else curious.

To-Do

• Wire wideband to ECU/Calibrate
• Fix Seatbelts not working
• Find/Fix headliner/interior firewall leak
• Fix rough idle/misfire on cold starts
• Fix knock sensor not showing connected to ECU(ECMlink keeps giving fault code for no knock sensor detected)
• Fix stock gauges not working(mainly fuel level gauge, but for giggles wanna fix water temp and oil pressure, for OEM hawtness)
• Find replacement or Fix current side mirrors doing the flippity floppity(the mirror inserts themselves sag down and won't stay where you put them)
• Fix headlights that don't pop up(P.O. says missing relay, start from scratch though)
• Fix Driver's Side headlight not working(aftermarket units w/ ballast...might scrap and go to old fashioned sealed bulbs/halogen)
• Clean up ECU wiring/make passenger side clean and OEM looking(ECU on floorboard out in open right now)
• F*CKING REMOVE THE NIGHTSHADE ON THE TAILS(either replacing them or doing the sand them clean and buff them shiny trick) (it's been tinted so g*d d*mned dark that you can hardly see when I'm on the brakes. Idiocy.)

There's more that will pop up from there I'm sure(like I wanna put sound deadening mat in the trunk area to cover holes from the fuel cell and make it overall quieter, and sealing up the rear spoiler bolt holes that leak water behind the trim in the hatch). However, those are super low priority and don't affect driving experience. Just niggling stuff at that point. If I find anything or think of anything else, I'll add it to the list. Even on this current to-do list there are some that are kinda low priority and some that are absolute necessities to drive(IMO), but yeah. Rambling over!

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Give me cold but sunny anyday. Or even cold and cloudy.

The Florida heat came by here last week talkin' all kinds of shit about how he's "gonna get you"...

 

[CrackedDSM]

The Florida heat came by here last week talkin' all kinds of shit about how he's "gonna get you"...

I ain’t scared of that bi***. I got window units and water for days.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Drove to the gas station from my house in the dsm with absolutely zero issues aside from one small one. It’s about 10-15 minutes and I spent the whole trip getting it up to roughly 4000RPM and letting it engine brake down to idle then doing it again to seat the rings. Also on the way back, I actually gave it some boost. Wastegate pressure on the green is 10-11lbs. Very happy with that. Spool is awesome too, VERY happy with the spool up.

So far so good. It regulates temperature perfectly, it revs and goes through the rpm smooth AF, ride quality SUCKS with the Coilovers but honestly isn’t as bad as I expected. Definitely can live with it.

The ONE ISSUE I’m having is if I throw it into neutral it will die. I have to feather the throttle which is super hard to do sometimes. Lol. I’m perfectly sure it’s something in the tune because there’s no issues anywhere else. When you start it up and feather the gas a bit it’ll idle fine from there. Just that one little area.


So awesome though. Feeling boost for the first time in this thing is incredible even if it’s slow and untuned. Gonna wire in the wideband this weekend among other things and start posting some logs.

So much fun y’all.

 

[Stapl3]

Post a log. Also be sure the throttle plate is resting cracked open at 15/16 of a full turn from completely closed.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Post a log. Also be sure the throttle plate is resting cracked open at 15/16 of a full turn from completely closed.

I remember you saying that before so I can say with authority it is. It helped before for sure because it would never idle before.

I’ll post a log when I get home. Want me to log when it dies or just a general idle log?

 

[steve]

Both.

 

[Stapl3]

I'm amazed you took it out on a maiden voyage without data logging.

I datalog every time I drive a dsm.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I like to live dangerously, what can I say.


Alright, I did it right this time and logged the entire journey. Startup, idle, cruise, some part and WOT, and where it died and I restarted it. It's a very long log, apologies for that. The very end of the log though is where it dies pulling into the driveway and what I have to do to restart it/keep it alive then it'll idle on its own again.


I have adjusted absolutely nothing except global and injector sizes. So if a setting is off or weird, point it out as it's not me. Lol. Also, I'm gonna fix the no knock sensor detected this weekend, and will have a wideband wired in. It's super duper rich AF under WOT(sub 10:1) so I'll have to address that once the wideband is wired in. Also: I forgot to install/screw in the speed cable. Lol. Sorry.


Edit: Timestamps

Drive starts at 173.8 ish in the log

Dies with clutch pushed in at 351ish in the log

Restart it w/ feathering of throttle at 367.5ish

Pull into the driveway and it dies at 552.8 ish

Restart it w/ feathering again at 557.7 ish.

 

[1cleangsx]

This.

Dude I’m so happy for you

Wish I could look at the log I’m on my phone out of town, but @steve @Stapl3 are way smarter and I’m sure they won’t let you down

 

[CrackedDSM]

This.

Dude I’m so happy for you

Wish I could look at the log I’m on my phone out of town, but @steve @Stapl3 are way smarter and I’m sure they won’t let you down

Appreciate you brotha. I'm pretty stoked too, just gotta iron all the issues. I appreciate the hell out of everyone, especially Steve, Stapl3 and everyone helping me/giving me the kick in the butt I need sometimes.

 

[Dericsh]

Congrats man!! Awesome!

 

[Stapl3]

Longer the log and more things captured the better. The only thing not to do is make an adjustment like global or deadtime in the middle of the log, because the log doesn't say that was done. Anytime during a datalog that I make a change, I end the log and immediately start a new one.

I'll dig through it when I get home tonight.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Longer the log and more things captured the better. The only thing not to do is make an adjustment like global or deadtime in the middle of the log, because the log doesn't say that was done. Anytime during a datalog that I make a change, I end the log and immediately start a new one.

I'll dig through it when I get home tonight.

I can say with certainty, nothing was adjusted or changed at all. I didn't touch anythin'.


Edit: Can I just say...this is f*cking awesome. For a little while there I legit thought I was never going to get to this point. This thing actually runs and drives. Damn it man. Crazy.

 

[steve]

Looks like the IPS is working so no need to simulate it.

The ECU isn't seeing VSS pulses so it doesn't know it's moving. That will cause problems.

You have the injectors sized as 976cc @ 37psi with a 335usec global deadtime adder and and additional 200+usec in the InjBatteryAdj direct map. The trims are trying to pull 10% fuel out and that's partly due to all the deadtime and incorrect injector sizing. Are you running 37psi or have you turned it up? Pump Gas or E85?

At idle your ISC position is about 80 rather than the 30 DSMLink recommends. Where is your BISS set?
When the ECU sees the throttle close and your RPMs are above your idle it starts closing the ISC down and hits 0. Same for your injector pulse while it's coasting down. It doesn't look like the ISC can open up fast/soon enough to keep the engine from stalling.

I'd start off getting it to idle well and fuel trims set floating around 0 with your ISC at 30. Then see if you can do the same at some basic cruising speeds with steady throttle.

Fix the VSS and check your MAP sensor I'm not sure if you have to give it a new display name or if your is just reading atmospheric right now.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Looks like the IPS is working so no need to simulate it.

The ECU isn't seeing VSS pulses so it doesn't know it's moving. That will cause problems.

You have the injectors sized as 976cc @ 37psi with a 335usec global deadtime adder and and additional 200+usec in the InjBatteryAdj direct map. The trims are trying to pull 10% fuel out and that's partly due to all the deadtime and incorrect injector sizing. Are you running 37psi or have you turned it up? Pump Gas or E85?

At idle your ISC position is about 80 rather than the 30 DSMLink recommends. Where is your BISS set?
When the ECU sees the throttle close and your RPMs are above your idle it starts closing the ISC down and hits 0. Same for your injector pulse while it's coasting down. It doesn't look like the ISC can open up fast/soon enough to keep the engine from stalling.

I'd start off getting it to idle well and fuel trims set floating around 0 with your ISC at 30. Then see if you can do the same at some basic cruising speeds with steady throttle.

Fix the VSS and check your MAP sensor I'm not sure if you have to give it a new display name or if your is just reading atmospheric right now.

I don't have a MAP sensor, this ECMLink came used from Rix Racing and was initially a SD tune. I've tried to reset the things I've found but apparently missed a few things. Oof.

BISS screw is set at 2.5 turns. I thought I read somewhere that was the appropriate amount. Fully close it, then 2.5 turns out. Pump Gas, no E85 near me(sadly). Injectors are FIC 1050's, if that matters. I can't honestly remember what my AFPR was set to, so I'll double check it this weekend and adjust it accordingly.

Is there an ISC setting or something that's out of whack or is it a symptom from other causes? Same question for the IPW.


So, wire in the wideband and get the injector sizing more apt, then focus on idle? Any advice there on how to accomplish that?

 

[Stapl3]

Everything above. And on the MAFcomp tab change the global scalar from 2.3 to zero.

The ISC being at 30 is the goal but do not get hung up on it. The ISC has a working range from 0-120. We strive to have it settle at 30 because it's usually adding instead of subtracting. This gives it a 75% window to add with some [25% of course] to subtract. Do not pull your hair out trying to get the value at 30, just around there is fine. This value is to be set with the radio off, ac off, headlights off, etc etc. At idle with the headlights on and ac blasting and the radio bumping expect it to be much higher than 30 and that is OK as it's limit is 120. Just understand the function of the ISC is to move air around the throttle plate, aka it's basically acting as your right foot in a very small %, and understand it's working range and where you'd like to T it off from, which again is accepted at 30. The BISS screw is 2 full turns from bottom "spec" so at 2.5 you're in the wheelhouse. But it doesn't mean shit. Just use the BISS as a slave to get the ISC value where you want as that's the entire game there.

But. My dude. All of this effort and you don't have a datalogged wideband, map, iat. Tisk, tisk. Make this happen. The wideband is arguably the most accurate sensor in the car, paired with a computer, and you're ignoring that. Just buy it and do it. Then you can go SD too if desired.

Your shit is gonna run better than stock but you just have to go a little bit further than you are now. You're super close man. Between your effort and us helping with the tuning, the car has no choice but to be excellent.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Everything above and on the MAFcomp tab change the global scalar from 2.3 to zero.

The ISC being at 30 is the goal but do not get hung up on it. The ISC has a working range from 0-120. We strive to have it settle at 30 because it's usually adding instead of subtracting. This gives it a 75% window to add with some [25% of course] to subtract. Do not pull your hair out trying to get the value at 30, just around there is fine. This value is to be set with the radio off, ac off, headlights off, etc etc. At idle with the headlights on and ac blasting and the radio bumping expect it to be much higher than 30 and that is OK as it's limit is 120. Just understand the function of the ISC is to move air around the throttle plate, aka it's basically acting as your right foot in a very small %, and understand it's working range and where you'd like to T it off from, which again is accepted at 30. The BISS screw is 2 full turns from bottom so at 2.5 you're in the wheelhouse. But it doesn't mean shit. Just use the BISS as a slave to get the ISC value where you want as that's the entire game there.

But. My dude. All of this effort and you don't have a datalogged wideband, map, iat. Tisk, tisk. Make this happen. The wideband is arguably the most accurate sensor in the car, paired with a computer, and you're ignoring that. Just buy it and do it. Then you can go SD too if desired.

Your shit is gonna run better than stock but you just have to go a little bit further than you are now. You're super close man.

To be clear I have a wideband, I just have to run the one wire to the ECU to log it. I also have an IAT sensor, actually currently installed in the piping. Lol. Just don't have a working MAP sensor. If I got one, are there any specific inputs that each would like best and still run MAF?

I'll probably order a stainless AEM 3.5bar here soon. Or an authentic GM 3 bar map. If only just to log.

But the advice on the BISS is much appreciated. I'll do that. I also had no idea that the MAFcomp was at 2.3 either.

Learning a lot fellas. Very much appreciated! And don't worry, I'll wire the wideband in ASAP.

 

[Stapl3]

Get a stainless AEM map. Datalogging the WB is everything. It's down to the millisecond and paired with the log. I go insane trying to get it to match afratioest which is the entire f***ing game more or less. Datalogging instead of gauges is the whole thing. I don't have one gauge in any of my cars; they are useless to me.

If I got one, are there any specific inputs that each would like best and still run MAF?

Nah, and you'll go SD right away anyways. Ignoring the physical aspect of the MAF setup, on the tuning side, there is _way_ more resolution and control.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Get a stainless AEM map. Datalogging the WB is everything. It's down to the millisecond and paired with the log. I go insane trying to get it to match afratioest. Datalogging instead of gauges is the whole thing. I don't have one gauge in any of my cars; they are useless to me.


Nah, and you'll go SD right away anyways. Ignoring the physical aspect of the MAF setup, on the tuning side, there is _way_ more resolution and control.

Alright then, I'm convinced. It'll clean the engine bay up too.

 

[curt-s]

The 1g ecu is limited for inputs. To run IAT and something on the baro, you have to run a non mitsu mass air sensor anyway.
Map and mass air won't really work together due to lack of available 5v inputs and EGR being finicky with certain sensors, including AEM

So just go SD.

 

[Stapl3]

I've avoided AEM stuff for over a decade as it just doesn't seem to jive with our ECU. The stainless MAP sensor I'll concede on based on how the alternatives are 'performing' for others.