Altered Mental Status(1G AWD 5spd)

[1cleangsx]

God I really don’t want to pull half the dash to remove the pedal. Really really hope I don’t have to do that. Lol.

Oh wait I see what y’all mean. That’s awesome. I can get that little bit welded by my guy who did my intercooler pipes.

It’s a blast your gonna love it

 

[pauleyman]

I did this exact mod long ago with an act 2600. It worked. You're right you have to be careful to get the threads to line up.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So I’m hearing that I should have this done before I even bother installing the new CMC. Kinda hopeless without those extra threads?

 

[pauleyman]

So I’m hearing that I should have this done before I even bother installing the new CMC. Kinda hopeless without those extra threads?

No. And if you need it you can always add it. Just pull the clevis bracket. Easy. Actually the new MC will come with a new bracket if you want to mod it before install. I usually don't use the new bracket as it's a little easier to just use the old but still not a big deal.

 

[CrackedDSM]

No. And if you need it you can always add it. Just pull the clevis bracket. Easy. Actually the new MC will come with a new bracket if you want to mod it before install. I usually don't use the new bracket as it's a little easier to just use the old but still not a big deal.

10-4. Makes sense to me.

I'm gonna use the new bracket for sure because the old one is rusty AF and questionable. Tempted to go ahead and get it welded since it'll be out anyway. Once it's here I'll take it down to the local place and ask how much to tac a nut on it for me.




Unrelated but need to vent: I really need to dig into this damn wiring issue for this car. I've been so focused on getting it shifting(which is important) that I keep coming back and remembering issues it has like 1) seatbelts don't work(the big one) 2) popups won't go down due to missing some kind of relay or something 3) None of the gauges except Tach and MPH work in the cluster.

These things combined with the ECU not seeing a knock sensor signal even though it's plugged in tight and brand new OEM(I verified it) unit, has me seeing little question marks over my head. I hate wiring, and you just can't find harnesses or etc anymore for these. I just wonder if all of my issues are related to a failed attempt to combine a 90 interior harness with a 91+ engine harness.(wire colors on the ECU connectors all point to a 90 harness, but connectors and wire colors for engine bay all point to 91+. Haven't dug further than that.)

I am exceedingly tempted to just buy known working 91 interior, chassis, and engine bay harnesses....but finding them is the issue.

Anyway, rant over. If someone knows ANYONE near me that has a parts 91, please send them my way. Even if it's a rusty, destroyed basket case...as long as I can rob the harnesses or etc off of it, it's worth it.


Honestly I'm probably just gonna have to invest in a sh*t ton of wire, and just rewire everything that doesn't work until it does. UGH. Lol.

 

[19Eclipse90]

While we're at it, can anyone tell me how to find the part numbers for these bolts?

View attachment 730885

I have Mitsu ASA and the FSM which is where I got the picture from. Is there another resource I don't have?


Edit - I searched and searched and found the list of ASA numbers on the STMTuned website, but that was pure luck. There is another resource that I'm missing that shows an exploded parts view like above but has the little ASA number right beside it. If anyone knows what that is, hit me up!

Also: for posterity, I'm gonna list what those bolts are and the size/pitch/etc for anyone searching in the future.

Left, FR Axle crossmember is what the bar is officially called

In order from left to right in the picture is

MB176900 - M12x1.25 x 28
MU240024 - M10x1.25 x 45
MU240025 - M10x1.25 x 75
MU240023 - M10x1.25 x 25

The picture above has it wrong as far as bolts go. It shows the back two bolts of the crossmember being the same. They aren't. Including another picture of the actual parts list of the bolts that was ripped from STMTuned website.

View attachment 730895

That was ridiculous the effort it took me to find that. Can't wait for a DSM guru to come in here though and link me to the page where it has a complete list and makes me look dumb. Lol.

Suspension Bolts

 

[CrackedDSM]

Suspension Bolts

G*d damn it Brian.



Thank you. I knew that would happen.

But...what program are yall using that shows the exploded view with part numbers?

 

[19Eclipse90]

The diagrams in that thread are from Mitsubishi ASA.

But there’s also this PDF:
1G Plymouth Laser and Eagle Talon Factory Parts Catalog 1990-1994

Wherein this diagram is found:

 

[bastarddsm]

The information is out there. There is lots of ways to skin the cat. Straight up if the clutch doesn't release at idle way before halfway down, it will never work at RPM. It needs 2x as much travel at RPM. I know this isn't a 10k setup, but it's a problem by 6500.

Like I've said 100 times, take a large bolt and a old TOB, open up a stock clutch, then open up anything aftermarket. If you can't see the problem, sell the car. The stock hydraulics barely work for a stock clutch. Not even close for aftermarket.

Ditch the long braided line. Short ones only, as much hardline as possible.

Weld one of these to the clevis https://www.mcmaster.com/products/nuts/socket-nuts~/ then figure out how to get the pedal up high.

 

[CrackedDSM]

The diagrams in that thread are from Mitsubishi ASA.
But there’s also this PDF:
1G Plymouth Laser and Eagle Talon Factory Parts Catalog 1990-1994

Wherein this diagram is found:
View attachment 730921

Thank you, truly.


Edit: Been doing a deep dive on clutch pedal adjustment and everything. Man there's so much info out there.

Can I get a for sure yes, or solid no, that bench bleeding the CMC is required? If so, HOW do you do it? I can't really get a solid how-to on how to bench bleed it. For my slave I bench bled it via Jafro's method and it worked great. For the clutch line, I did it the old fashioned way.

But yeah, a solid word either way would help me out a lot.

 

[CrackedDSM]

So who all has a running, driving, shifting DSM?

ADD ME TO THE F*CKING LIST!!!



She shifts, and she drives like a champ. I 100% need to get a nut welded on the end of the clevis because it's at the very end of the adjustment/no more threads and honestly could use a hair more adjustment out, but it runs and drives and disengages this way!


REWIND TO BEGINNING OF THE DAY


So, this bad boy finally came in today. Came here SUPER fast, and as soon as I got it I can 100% tell the other CMC in the car isn't OEM. The reservoir is WAY bigger on the OEM part.

Just look at that beautiful thing.

The old one put up one hell of a fight on the way out, I'm sad to say. The pin that holds the clevis end on was installed backwards, so the cotter pin was a NIGHTMARE to get to and pull out. It was also too big so I struggled for a solid hour trying to get a good purchase on it before I finally just gave in and asked my neighbor for a small pair of vice grips. Got it on there, and had to yank hard enough I thought I bent the rod before the cotter pin finally came out. But out she came, and out the pin came, and in a moment...she was out. Here's a comparison of parts store brand vs OEM clutch master cylinder if anyone is curious.

The rod is just a hair...like a MM or two...longer. And the big difference is this. Look at the size difference of the hole.

parts store brand

OEM Mitsu

Hopefully you can see the difference. It's HUGE by comparison. You can also see the reservoir differences between the two.

Here she is all bolted in, clevis pin installed the PROPER direction.

Upon first start up and bleed(I bench bled the clutch master cylinder. Super easy. Just fill the reservoir, poke a hole in that little rubber seal that covers the hole, and press the rod in and out until the bubbles stop. Took 15 seconds) was satisfying. It didn't need to be bled hardly at all because I was conscientious of air getting into the system and pre-bleeding the CMC.

So I fired her up, pressed the clutch and noticed it was spongy. And it trying to put it into gear? Grind city. I was disappointed, but not super angry yet as I knew I didn't adjust the rod. So I adjusted the rod until the rod was flush with the clevis, tried again....still grinds. At this point I'm gut punched. How much more of a difference can a few threads make? Something is wrong. Time to give up and call it.

But wait...honestly what have I got to lose. I contorted my way down there and adjusted the rod until it popped out of the clevis, then backed it up a tiny bit until it was in there nice and solid.

Start it up...clutch pedal is firm. Nice and firm. Push it in, press the shifter down expecting to hear that familiar grind....wait. Did that just go in? Pull it back out and try it again. IT F*CKING WENT IN! ARE YOU KIDDING ME?!

Rev the shit out of it with the clutch in, and no wheels move. Goes right into gear. Holy f**king s**t. It works!!

Immediately rush to pull it off jack stands, flat tire and all, and try to move it. Moves like a champ. Fully disengages like 2-2.5" off the floor, plenty of room to feather/slip the clutch. Not an on/off switch at all.



CONCLUSION


Honestly, this is surreal. I legitimately was beginning to think this moment would never come. On that first start up and after the first adjustment and it still ground, I was at the point of selling the car. I was not about to pull the trans AGAIN, and wasn't gonna fight it anymore. But I rallied, and it was worth it.

I'm gonna end up pulling the clevis and getting a nut welded on the back of it, because I do think it needs just a hair more travel on the back of it to make it perfect. If I clutch in and IMMEDIATELY try to put it into first, it'll grind the tiniest bit before it goes in. If I push clutch in and wait like half a second to a full second, there's zero grinding whatsoever. Plus it'll be a nice piece of mind to know I've got plenty more threads/it wont shear off.

But seriously. I don't know how to feel. It's been a very long day, and a very long project to get it to this point...but here we are.


BONUS INFO

As a huge bonus, I discovered the OEM fans work and regulate on their own. Temps hit 197*ish on my AEM gauge, and then they kicked on. Temps dropped into the very low 190-188 range, and were stable AF. No overheating, no issues. Honestly just a day of victories. Cross that off my list too, because I had no idea if the fans worked.

Sincerely thank everyone for their advice, encouragement, and kick in the pants that I needed along the way. It's not over, but this is a huge milestone. Thank yall so much.

 

[curt-s]

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

Spleenrodamus’ prediction on the master cylinder was quite right I see…

On a serious note though so glad to see this, now you’re at that point it starts to get real fun unlocking all the potential and making it run better and better, I know it’s a damn good feeling.

 

[Stapl3]

You did it! Post some logs let's tune this sucker.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Spleenrodamus’ prediction on the master cylinder was quite right I see…

On a serious note though so glad to see this, now you’re at that point it starts to get real fun unlocking all the potential and making it run better and better, I know it’s a damn good feeling.

Yep! Although the previous slave cylinder would've been just as much of a problem. It was physically shorter than the OEM replacement I got for it. So both needed to be replaced with OEM. I'm also glad I did end up changing the flywheel though, just because now I can say I know every piece of the clutch/shifting assembly is brand new OEM, or better, and I know the specs of it.

You did it! Post some logs let's tune this sucker.

Yes sir! Now I can actually seat the rings like it needs! Gonna air up the tires and drive the sh*t out of it tomorrow. Might even ride dirty all the way to the gas station. Lol. So surreal feeling.

 

[Stapl3]

If you got the balls to do a log at WOT at about 5500rpm, we can cut a ton of bullshit and calibrate the car rather quickly. I'd love to tune it for you dude.

 

[1cleangsx]

Man this just made my week! Super happy for man! It’ll only get better from here

 

[CrackedDSM]

If you got the balls to do a log at WOT at about 5500rpm, we can cut a ton of bullshit and calibrate the car rather quickly. I'd love to tune it for you dude.

No promises, but we'll see what happens on the drive tomorrow. I'm kinda resolved to drive it from my house to the gas station and back. Might as well log the whole journey, and we'll see what kinda boost I can get into. My main concern is the clutch. It's not broken in yet. It IS however a ceramic disk so maybe it'll be okay. But we'll see.

So stoked that I can focus on all the driveability/finer stuff now.

 

[Stapl3]

Even if you just run wastegate pressure boost and floor it from 4500 to 6000, then on top of that go in Link and put the timing sliders down quite a bit during those RPM, that would be IMO safe and put you incredibly far ahead as far as tuning here forward. The information of WOT at 5500 is the biggest key ever. You can absolutely safety guard the car to be dog slow for this.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Even if you just run wastegate pressure boost and floor it from 4500 to 6000, then on top of that go in Link and put the timing sliders down quite a bit during those RPM, that would be IMO safe and put you incredibly far ahead as far as tuning here forward. The information of WOT at 5500 is the biggest key ever. You can absolutely safety guard the car to be dog slow for this.

I’m convinced. Let’s do it!


Edit: shit. I need to wire the wideband to the ecu so I can log it. Lol.

 

[Stapl3]

Talk to the hand until you have a wideband properly calibrated and datalogging.

 

[CrackedDSM]

It's an AEM UEGO from a billion years ago. Lol. Might end up having to just buy a modern, faster/better wideband to replace it but we'll see what magic I can work.

'Til tomorrow gents.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I chickened out on the trip to the gas station. The idle needs work and I'm pretty sure some of the hoses have dried out and cracked on me aka it's got boost leaks. So having to keep the car from dying on me and the combo of it not having working seatbelts in it pushed it too far into "too risky" status for me to do it, considering the car doesn't have registration/license plate.


Need to fix the belts ASAP, and once that is fixed I can go get the car registered/tagged.

I did however drive it down my street and onto the next street. For some reason the "brake" light is on, on my cluster even though the e-brake is down?

Either way though, the fact I can start it up and move it wherever I want is intoxicating. Even if the tune is still rough AF. This coming week I'll do a ton of work on it since it's my "short week". Wire the wideband in to the ECU, calibrate it so it logs properly, fix the seatbelts, and then post up some logs so we can fix the idle/get it idling and not dying out randomly. Think I'm gonna change the plugs too because they're old and unknown.

 

[dwb]

Check your brake fluid level.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Check your brake fluid level.

Gotcha. The clutch fluid is kinda low, I thought I refilled the brake fluid but I might not have. Is there a sensor for the fluid reservoir too? That may be unplugged or jacked up like the rest of the wiring.