This procedure will show you how to remove/install a 2g GST gas tank. The gas tank on my Eclipse had a very good size dent on the bottom, I was able to find a donor one for fairly cheap so I decided to swap them out. This procedure was performed by myself with minimal tools. I assume no responsibility for any damage to property, vehicle or person who may attempt to perform this procedure, do so at your own risk.
Tools needed:
1. Metric sockets and wrenches specifically 10,12,14,17,19mm.
2. Floor jack
3. Adjustable jack stands
4. Air impact gun (not required, but definately a nice thing to have)
5. PB Blaster (works great on rusted on nuts/bolts)
6. Needle nose pliers
7.14mm flare wrench (a must to use on fuel line)
8. Drain pan (for any excess gas that may leak out)
9. Fire extinguisher (remember you're dealing with fuel so every precaution should be taken)
10. Sawz-all sytle tool (I found I needed this when it came time to remove the exhaust pipe/muffler, if you've already replaced the OEM exhaust you most likely won't need this)
11. Good degreaser and rags to clean everything up
12. 1/4 drive socket wrench with 10mm socket
13. Flathead screwdriver
Step 1: Disconnecting fuel to engine
1. Start off by removing the back seat to expose fuel pump cover and fuel pump connector. As seen in the picture this process is pretty much self explanatory. There are two tabs located underneath the rear seat cushion, one underneath both the driver and passenger sides. Pull the tabs out one at a time towards the front of the car while lifting up on the cushion. Once the seat is disconnected from the tabs remove the seat from vehicle. See picture one.
2. Once the seat cushion is removed you will be able to see the fuel pump plate located underneath the passenger side seat. At this point remove five (5) phillips head screws to access the fuel pump assembly. Four are located on the plate itself and one is to hold down the wiring harness leading to the pump. See picture two.
3. Once you have the fuel pump cover plate off disconnect the two harness' leading to the top of the fuel pump. One is white in color and the other is black, both should come off fairly easy. See picture three. Once both harness' are disconnected start the car and let it run until it dies. Once the engine has died disconnect the two black lines running to the fuel pump. Use a set of needle nose pliers to disconnect them. *Please note the orientation of these lines as you will need this information upon installation*. This means that the fuel pump has stopped delivering fuel to the engine and now you can proceed with removing the gas tank. Before going any further disconnect the negative cable to the battery to avoid any sparks or damage to the vehicle/person.
Step 2: Supporting vehicle and removal of exhaust
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. While doing this you will want to make sure you're on a flat surface. Also before raising the rear of vehicle place two 2x2 pieces of wood behind the front tires to avoid the vehicle rolling back. Once the vehicle is supported on jack stands examine the bolts and hangars for the exhaust and muffler. To remove the exhaust hangars you can usually use a flathead screwdriver to push the rubber off. Now if you have a stock/rusted exhaust (as I did) this is where you will most likely need a sawz-all tool. Right above the drivers side rear axle is where there is an exhaust flange. This will most likely be rusted together. See picture 4. At this point I decided to just cut away the muffler from the rest of the exhaust. You should have enough room to cut the pipe right behind the rear axle. If you do it this way you will most likely need a new exhaust so make sure you are prepared. Once this piece is cut off remove the muffler. Now you can either remove the rest of the exhaust from the cat-back or from the downpipe back, it's up to you. Once the exhaust system is off and out of the way you can begin removal on the gas tank.
Step 3: Removal of gas tank
1. Start off by disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel pump. This is where you will NEED the 14mm flare wrench. You may want to put a drain pan under the line just in case there is any excess fuel still in the fuel line. This is usually on there pretty tight so just take your time and don't strip the flare nut. See picture 6.
2. Now that you have everything out of the way you can start the removal process of the gas tank. There should be six bolts connecting the gas tank to the car, the bolts will have a red tip on them to identify them easily. At this point I sprayed PB Blaster on each bolt to avoid any problems with removal. There are also a few bolts connected to the gas tank itself that need to be disconnected before removal can take place. See picture 7&8. There are also two fuel lines attached to the rear of the tank. See picture 9. They are connected to the tank using an adjustable clamp. You should be able to fit a 1/4 drive ratchet with a 10mm socket up top to disconnect the two lines from the tank. It takes some effort but they will come off.
3. Once all connections are removed and everything is out of the way you will want to place a jack with a 2x2 piece of wood underneath the gas tank to support the weight. Once the gas tank is supported unbolt the gas tank from the body and remove it from underneath the car. While the gas tank is off it may be a good idea to get any debri, rocks, etc. out from underneath the body. I just took some degreaser and a rag to clean everything up before reassembly. I also purchased so rubberized coating for the replacement gas tank at a local auto parts store.
Step 4: Installation of gas tank
1. Once everything has been cleaned up and is ready to go installation will be just the opposite of removal. Heres is a view of the finished product.
Tools needed:
1. Metric sockets and wrenches specifically 10,12,14,17,19mm.
2. Floor jack
3. Adjustable jack stands
4. Air impact gun (not required, but definately a nice thing to have)
5. PB Blaster (works great on rusted on nuts/bolts)
6. Needle nose pliers
7.14mm flare wrench (a must to use on fuel line)
8. Drain pan (for any excess gas that may leak out)
9. Fire extinguisher (remember you're dealing with fuel so every precaution should be taken)
10. Sawz-all sytle tool (I found I needed this when it came time to remove the exhaust pipe/muffler, if you've already replaced the OEM exhaust you most likely won't need this)
11. Good degreaser and rags to clean everything up
12. 1/4 drive socket wrench with 10mm socket
13. Flathead screwdriver
Step 1: Disconnecting fuel to engine
1. Start off by removing the back seat to expose fuel pump cover and fuel pump connector. As seen in the picture this process is pretty much self explanatory. There are two tabs located underneath the rear seat cushion, one underneath both the driver and passenger sides. Pull the tabs out one at a time towards the front of the car while lifting up on the cushion. Once the seat is disconnected from the tabs remove the seat from vehicle. See picture one.
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2. Once the seat cushion is removed you will be able to see the fuel pump plate located underneath the passenger side seat. At this point remove five (5) phillips head screws to access the fuel pump assembly. Four are located on the plate itself and one is to hold down the wiring harness leading to the pump. See picture two.
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3. Once you have the fuel pump cover plate off disconnect the two harness' leading to the top of the fuel pump. One is white in color and the other is black, both should come off fairly easy. See picture three. Once both harness' are disconnected start the car and let it run until it dies. Once the engine has died disconnect the two black lines running to the fuel pump. Use a set of needle nose pliers to disconnect them. *Please note the orientation of these lines as you will need this information upon installation*. This means that the fuel pump has stopped delivering fuel to the engine and now you can proceed with removing the gas tank. Before going any further disconnect the negative cable to the battery to avoid any sparks or damage to the vehicle/person.
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Step 2: Supporting vehicle and removal of exhaust
1. Raise the rear of the vehicle with a floor jack and support it on jack stands. While doing this you will want to make sure you're on a flat surface. Also before raising the rear of vehicle place two 2x2 pieces of wood behind the front tires to avoid the vehicle rolling back. Once the vehicle is supported on jack stands examine the bolts and hangars for the exhaust and muffler. To remove the exhaust hangars you can usually use a flathead screwdriver to push the rubber off. Now if you have a stock/rusted exhaust (as I did) this is where you will most likely need a sawz-all tool. Right above the drivers side rear axle is where there is an exhaust flange. This will most likely be rusted together. See picture 4. At this point I decided to just cut away the muffler from the rest of the exhaust. You should have enough room to cut the pipe right behind the rear axle. If you do it this way you will most likely need a new exhaust so make sure you are prepared. Once this piece is cut off remove the muffler. Now you can either remove the rest of the exhaust from the cat-back or from the downpipe back, it's up to you. Once the exhaust system is off and out of the way you can begin removal on the gas tank.
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Step 3: Removal of gas tank
1. Start off by disconnecting the fuel line from the fuel pump. This is where you will NEED the 14mm flare wrench. You may want to put a drain pan under the line just in case there is any excess fuel still in the fuel line. This is usually on there pretty tight so just take your time and don't strip the flare nut. See picture 6.
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2. Now that you have everything out of the way you can start the removal process of the gas tank. There should be six bolts connecting the gas tank to the car, the bolts will have a red tip on them to identify them easily. At this point I sprayed PB Blaster on each bolt to avoid any problems with removal. There are also a few bolts connected to the gas tank itself that need to be disconnected before removal can take place. See picture 7&8. There are also two fuel lines attached to the rear of the tank. See picture 9. They are connected to the tank using an adjustable clamp. You should be able to fit a 1/4 drive ratchet with a 10mm socket up top to disconnect the two lines from the tank. It takes some effort but they will come off.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
3. Once all connections are removed and everything is out of the way you will want to place a jack with a 2x2 piece of wood underneath the gas tank to support the weight. Once the gas tank is supported unbolt the gas tank from the body and remove it from underneath the car. While the gas tank is off it may be a good idea to get any debri, rocks, etc. out from underneath the body. I just took some degreaser and a rag to clean everything up before reassembly. I also purchased so rubberized coating for the replacement gas tank at a local auto parts store.
Step 4: Installation of gas tank
1. Once everything has been cleaned up and is ready to go installation will be just the opposite of removal. Heres is a view of the finished product.
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You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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