CrackedDSM said:

You bought a new harness just to cut it up again? I'd have at least tested it all out to make sure it all worked before messing with it at all.

Click to expand...

i did, it worked, but i can get it to work now and everything works as it should i just have to ground pin 38, and when looking into it they say the ecu brings 38 to ground and the wire continuity checked out fine, but ive been dealing with shorts for awhile thats why i bought a new harness.

verified hick said:

i did, it worked, but i can get it to work now and everything works as it should i just have to ground pin 38, and when looking into it they say the ecu brings 38 to ground and the wire continuity checked out fine, but ive been dealing with shorts for awhile thats why i bought a new harness.

Click to expand...

wait so it worked before, now that you cut it up again it doesn't work again?

What roll cage do you have in there? Just a loop or do you have a 4 point roll cage?

This was not the rabbit hole I was expecting. Crazy big work you just did, and good for you going all in.

Justin DuBois said:

This was not the rabbit hole I was expecting. Crazy big work you just did, and good for you going all in.

Click to expand...

i appreciate it man, heres how i looked at it,
new “tucked” harness from ohm-racing is over $1000 id love one of these but i dont have my final set of injectors and so if i order it with plugs for my denso injectors they might not match when i order my final set of injectors
also i dont have a map sensor yet i thought i had a ohmi 4 bar laying around but cant find it
just a few things i still need before i can get my hands on a nice harness like that. unless mine does the job.
also i wanted to do the hands on of “making/customizing” a harness
i thought it would be easier to just used the stock harness since it was already “together” all i had to do was take away connectors and reroute them,

Racersedge said:

What roll cage do you have in there? Just a loop or do you have a 4 point roll cage?

Click to expand...

this roll cage was a previous owner problem, id never let that stay in here, they couldnt weld the tops of any of the bars because they did it in the car and to close to ceiling the welds were shit, i ended up cutting it out, there was a middle bar too behind the seats but looks like previous owner also cut that out, i also see you asked what fuze box to use and you have to use the 99 gst one

(Shaking my head) Welds in a cage, to no specification, with no fabrication process. oh the horror

I’ve helped do it right, on an SCCA EVO. We lowered the ends of the hoops with an initial assembly through the floor, weld, lift and weld new floor plates. Glass out, roof stays right where it is. The acid etch and two part paint went on after.

Justin DuBois said:

(Shaking my head) Welds in a cage, to no specification, with no fabrication process. oh the horror

I’ve helped do it right, on an SCCA EVO. We lowered the ends of the hoops with an initial assembly through the floor, weld, lift and weld new floor plates. Glass out, roof stays right where it is. The acid etch and two part paint went on after.

Click to expand...

oh man that sounds like a hell alot of work, im going to make a new one with all the right specs to pass and shit.

verified hick said:

oh man that sounds like a hell alot of work, im going to make a new one with all the right specs to pass and shit.

Click to expand...

Make it to save a life - Our guy slid off the last turn at big willow at about 120mph, on fat Hoosiers, Hooked up just long enough to launch himself into the infield, went end over end 3 times. That car never drove again, but he did.

Justin DuBois said:

Make it to save a life - Our guy slid off the last turn at big willow at about 120mph, on fat Hoosiers, Hooked up just long enough to launch himself into the infield, went end over end 3 times. That car never drove again, but he did.

Click to expand...

damn man least hes okay!

finally got around to adding rubber grommets for the wires i added, looks nice
under side looks so nice with no rust
that purple on purple combo tho
got to get my harness back in
figure out why my driver side fan isnt working
then see if we can drive her down the road pal

found where my short is, its the famous room fuze under the hood, havnt figured out whats causing it yet tho, it isnt my engine harness i made, its in the fuze box harness that i haven’t touched yet, leading me to be another f***ed wire somewhere ill have to search endlessly for again, i have unplugged everything and door chimes to dome light ac switches the whole 9, ecu blah blah, still hot.
anyone know exactly whats on that fuze and where it leads to first? i cant seem to find a diagram for the fuze box itself showing where the 2 wires go. or if they split off in the harness and go to other things yata yata. ya get the jist f*** this thing

okay lots going on hopefully i can figure this shit out, lets start off with the harness that i have been f***ing with, heres a list of the things that dont work anymore,
passanger side window yes i checked the button on the driver side nothing,
driver side works tho,
no interior lights
my wideband is still stuck on “sens” have checked all connections everythings good gotta be the gauge or sensor. i bought the gauge second hand so i think im just going to get a new one any suggestions that isnt aem?
i was searching high and low as to why the one wire still had a 35 amp draw on it thats connected to the “room” fuze seems like its normal?
pretty sure thats all of it,

next i got it running i had to see if the wire harness i made was going to work and shit look at that it did everything reads in ecmlink as normal my temp works my o2 was cycling everything was working i finally got it to go into closed loop by itself now the idle comes down to 900-1000 heres the only problem i have with that, to get it to start or the check engine light to come on in acc i have to jump the red wire on the mpi relay, the red wire tested only for 0.74 volts weird.

next f*** DSM WHO EVER TOLD ME TO BUY THIS SHIT f*** YOU. rant over im good IM GOING TO ABSOLUTELY DRIVE THE f*** OUTTA THIS CAR,
ill post a next reply with the video evidence of this f***ery i got going on i swear this car is possessed

just alittle oil coming out the downpipe yk totally normal, i was just thinking i needed to change my blinker fluid as well f***.
okay i think im having crank case pressure problems?
have had this problem with 2 tuurbos now
first one was 28g oil feed from ofh with oem turbo drain blew oil thru the seals
new turbo chinese 20g oil feed from ofh new aftermarket AN drain same issue as before
now i do think i might have done this to myself i had a catch set up 2 10an fittings going to catch can well one of the fittings wouldnt seal so i just took the catch can off and blocked the holes with a small bolt and some tape was that bad idea? it didnt leak for over 30 mins of idle and a little drive,
dont have a pvc valve either.

I run this one: https://zeitronix.com/Products/Zt-3/Zt-3.shtml

I had his 1st product - ZT-1, built for the DSM community in SoCal California and sold through Road//Race engineering and then it took off! He re-built the controller for linear 0-5v output with the ZT-2 for mass production, and now so many years later he has the ZT-3 with CAN bus technology for compatibility.

verified hick said:

next f*** DSM WHO EVER TOLD ME TO BUY THIS SHIT f*** YOU. rant over im good IM GOING TO ABSOLUTELY DRIVE THE f*** OUTTA THIS CAR,
ill post a next reply with the video evidence of this f***ery i got going on i swear this car is possessed

Click to expand...

Being an original owner of my 95 - I don't know the pain of dealing with someone elses f***ery, but the stuff that would come through the shop - oh yeah. Sometimes the best choice is the job you chose not to do.

Justin DuBois said:

Being an original owner of my 95 - I don't know the pain of dealing with someone elses f***ery, but the stuff that would come through the shop - oh yeah. Sometimes the best choice is the job you chose not to do.

Click to expand...

i appreciate you, do the readings match from gauge to what ecmlink is showing? ah and it looks like i can get that to work with this said here aem gauge i have?
btw did you see all the oil coming out of my downpipe what a joke right? you got any info on that?

verified hick said:

i appreciate you, do the readings match from gauge to what ecmlink is showing? ah and it looks like i can get that to work with this said here aem gauge i have?
btw did you see all the oil coming out of my downpipe what a joke right? you got any info on that?

Click to expand...

Yes - if you setup ECM Link correctly for the sensor, the gauge and the data in the logs should match. You should be able to do the same for the AEM.

Oil from downpipe flange...
Got to trace backwards to the source. Might be turbo - might be valve seals, might be head gasket. might be valve cover gasket - pressure is pushing it out of somewhere. MHI TD05 cartridges have a pressure limiting oil input, so you can run full pressure from the OFH. Make sure the turbo oil drain isn't clogged. I don't know much about non mitsu turbo's, so maybe share some details after you trace back where that oil is comming from .

well boys i did it! i drove her today she stopped, she went 45, she turned, she boosted when i had gotten into the very few times that i did, the gauge said 12psi, she turned on and off, no dying, thru out the day. im pretty happy with it actually im pretty positive the oil was being pushed out by to much crank case pressure, i got to the shop cleaned up evrything that had leaked and ran the car again, but before i did i took out the bolt and tape i used to cover the holes that were for the catch can and what do you know no more leaks ran all day. again i dont have a pvc valve nor was my catch can vented to pre turbo it doesnt have any vacuum on it so maybe i need to add those. heres my log anyone want to look thru it and tell me what i need to adjust to get it to run better?

is the oil gauge supposed to drop to zero when i put it in gear and dont hit the gas? or is that weird? i didnt see no other issues with the gauge all day. read just fine

my brake lights no longer work
neither do the running lights
throttle cable is sticky
she needs an alignment bad
something in the back end is squeaky
one of the pulleys is squeaky
otherwise she drove like a dream and honestly stunned it even drives it’s beautiful

well another good day of driving around this time it was alittle more annoying i think i popped off the same intercooler pipe probably 5-6 times trying to get into actual boost and holding it, i have yet to buy a nice set of pipes, and clamps so its what i get. im still dripping a few drops of something off the back of the motor and coolant off the cross over pipe.

well gentlemen, it wouldnt be a dsm if i wasnt about to tell you this right ? pretty
positive my trans is .t.o.a.s.t. lost all gears while driving. no leaks, no line kinks, wont shift out of first gear if it does grab gear 20mph at 6k rpm barley nudging along. tranns temp never seen above 118 on the gauge, trans fluid was checked, smells burnt pray for me.

on a good note my tail lights work again, imagine there not even being a brake light switch in there never checked it til i noticed it wasn’t there
cant get my passenger window up. interior lights work by the feet, not the dome light, not the sunroof, key ring light works, key reminder works. hmm

Maybe the clutch won't disengage and the gears are fine. Can you "yank" it into neutral while rolling? (or 4 wheels off on stands)

Justin DuBois said:

Maybe the clutch won't disengage and the gears are fine. Can you "yank" it into neutral while rolling? (or 4 wheels off on stands)

Click to expand...

without hitting the brake? member its an auto car not manual

verified hick said:

without hitting the brake? member its an auto car not manual

Click to expand...

Oh, never mind that idea then. I don’t know the problems of two kids (one was enough) - I mean I don’t know the problem of an auto trans.