I've done a far amount of research and understand both are china castings and then machined in the states.

The best poster I found on the eagles was Tim at TMZ, pushing them over 800whp and being completely fine, as for the Manleys there was little to no information on them other than supposably they have a better machined final product with no evidence.

Price Difference
Eagles - $425.62 USD
Manley - $518.00 USD

Weight Difference




I already have purchased both sets of rods and and can run either in my 2.4 build. Im going to keep it at around 700whp with an Eagle crank and Wiseco Pistons.



My question is which would you run between the two at this power level and why?

Please keep this informative, not "Manley because its amazing", "Eagle because its rated at 900"

Any good information is much appreciated, thanks guys

If I were a betting man, I would bet they are the same rod made at the same foundry with a different name laser engraved into them.

Both don't like high torque loads from what I've seen over the years and fail around the same power....rarely making their "rated" power.

My .02, pick whichever is cheaper or available and send it.

jdxnc said:

If I were a betting man, I would bet they are the same rod made at the same foundry with a different name laser engraved into them.

Both don't like high torque loads from what I've seen over the years and fail around the same power....rarely making their "rated" power.

My .02, pick whichever is cheaper or available and send it.

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That seems to be the consensus, I have both already. One came in a car I bought, the other in a 2.3 stroker kit I bought.

So that's the predicament

For what it's worth I've had the Eagles in my car for 8 years, no issue and making enough power to run mid 9's.

jdxnc said:

For what it's worth I've had the Eagles in my car for 8 years, no issue and making enough power to run mid 9's.

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I hear you, it's crazy the amount of feedback on the eagles vs the Manley.

I suppose it's saving the extra $100 that makes them the go to.

But I find it really surprising that there isn't much info or talk on the Manleys

You posted about my stuff already. That motor did great, but keep your revs at / below 8400 on a steel rod 2.4L to keep it alive. The rod bearings got peened up pretty good when I went to higher rpm and really high load, which is why I went to an aluminum rod 2.3L for my next motor. Also, regarding the Eagle rods, keep in mind mine were made in 2005, I cannot attest to the build quality of them since the set I used 18 years ago for my build.

twicks69 said:

Also, regarding the Eagle rods, keep in mind mine were made in 2005, I cannot attest to the build quality of them since the set I used 18 years ago for my build.

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This^ As with any mass manufactured part, things go through the costing department on the regular to see where they can save 6 cents of material.

I absolutley agree with both of you, thanks for your input.

Made 700whp+ with my Eagles close to 10 years ago (gosh, can't believe it has been that long already!) I removed them and got better rods. These are still sitting in my garage somewhere. I would have no qualms pushing them to 800whp. But as Tim said, I can't attest to their quality today either. My car has a 9000rpm rev limit and it was frequently revved there. 2.0L.

I just went to the dyno this weekend, made 731hp and 510tq on the Eagles up to 9500rpm.

Does anyone have anymore information on this?
Im kinda thinking the same... that theyre produced by the same company then shipped off to Eagle/Manley to be cleaned up and etched. I know alot of companies do this... For instance... i found out that the BLE Lifters/ GSC lifters/ TOPLINE lifters all come form the same company.. theyre just 3G lifters... bought in bulk, shipped, and packaged differently. I know this because of Rock Auto... i ordered the same lifters from separate companies and found them all to be the same with the only difference being the packaging

Anyway... i ordered a pair of Manley Rods from RTMRACING... theyre doing 50% all products now so i figured why not... MAN-14022-4 for $283.74?? when everyone else is selling them for $518+? thats one hell of a deal

DuhPanda said:

Does anyone have anymore information on this?
Im kinda thinking the same... that theyre produced by the same company then shipped off to Eagle/Manley to be cleaned up and etched. I know alot of companies do this... For instance... i found out that the BLE Lifters/ GSC lifters/ TOPLINE lifters all come form the same company.. theyre just 3G lifters... bought in bulk, shipped, and packaged differently. I know this because of Rock Auto... i ordered the same lifters from separate companies and found them all to be the same with the only difference being the packaging

Anyway... i ordered a pair of Manley Rods from RTMRACING... theyre doing 50% all products now so i figured why not... MAN-14022-4 for $283.74?? when everyone else is selling them for $518+? thats one hell of a deal

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I have both on hand, I'll take some photos of both to give a bit of a comparison for what it's worth.

I got my set of Eagle H beams from RTM late last year, curious how they'll measure out and stack up but I'm only pairing them with Manley 8.5:1 and a HTAv3 so I will be well under their rated power. I also don't rev out even to 7k.
I think I'm safe with my choice given my goals.

@VegasSmith snapped a Manley h beam in half, I’m not sure if he ever determined the root cause but hopefully he’ll see this thread and chime in. I personally went with Manley “turbo tuff” I beams for added strength. I know they’re heavier than h beams and are said to be harder on bearings, but which would you rather beat up? A $100 set of bearings or a $700 set of rods? The bearings can be replaced on a refreshed block, those I beams can be re used and won’t fatigue and weaken like aluminum rods. I know aluminum rods have their place in RACE engines, but even the Red Demon replaces them after so many runs due to stretch. Look up the HPAcadamy podcast with Devin Shultz and he explains the finite life of aluminum in high horsepower applications. All I’m getting at is a strong steel rod can be re used for a high power STREET car. I personally would lean towards a proven I beam/X beam for power and longevity

Again, not trying to step on any toes , @jdxnc has done more with his car than the majority on this forum including me, so take my opinion with a grain of salt. However the ONLY selling point of an H beam over an I beam for our motors is their lighter, not STRONGER.

i've got eagles in my 420a making 140HP (money is the problem) but from what i've read they both crap out near the same torque level but the manleys are much happier with high revs and would be my go to in a drag build

subscribed for updates.

This topic needs to be expanded on.

From what I've gathered over the numerous different conversations peppering the forums, I've come to believe either are good for the majority of builds (<=600hp) -- it's a matter of personal preference.
Above that, go I beam.

From the eagles and manleys I've had here the manleys have a thicker beam. The must have less meat around the big end then if they are 25 grams lighter. I went high 10's on my eagles back in the day. Made enough torque to break a wiseco wrist pin with them.

bastarddsm said:

From the eagles and manleys I've had here the manleys have a thicker beam. The must have less meat around the big end then if they are 25 grams lighter. I went high 10's on my eagles back in the day. Made enough torque to break a wiseco wrist pin with them.

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Well Manley does offer an H-Tuff option for the 7 bolt. Too bad its not offered for the 6 bolts.

FYI, we have another option. Eagle rods came out with an "Extreme Duty" variant of their rods


6 bolt 22 pin: https://www.eaglerod.com/item/5524253-mitsubishi-4g63-89-93-extreme-duty-rod-4?category=196777
6bolt 21 pin: https://www.eaglerod.com/item/5524250-mitsubisihi-4g63-89-92-extreme-duty-4?category=196777

7 bolt: https://www.eaglerod.com/item/5524251-mitsubishi-4g63-93-extreme-duty-rod-4?category=196783

They appear to be the same rods, with upgraded bolts. The weight is the same with both. If that’s so, theyre a waste of money for our application.

yeah, i suspected that when i noticed all the part numbers were the same except for the last 4 digits.

ViciousLord said:

yeah, i suspected that when i noticed all the part numbers were the same except for the last 4 digits.

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Look back through the interwebs and look for failed 4g rods. They’re all bent or broken in compression. They never pull the caps off.

Given that the rod cap is only being pulled by the crank during the intake stroke, you'd need to have some really heavy rod+piston combo and an extremely high rpm to out-do the bolts.
Do we even have any data that shows upgraded bolts beyond even standard ARPs have any actual benefit in any 4g63 application?