Has somebody measured it or know what the exact thickness of the Kiggly main girdle is?

Thickness never heard of someone measuring it . Just install it without nothing special to do for it.

Just some block grinding is what the instructions call for. And head studs only.

*edit* as @chrisman287, main studs. I had a senior moment.

curt-s said:

Just some block grinding is what the instructions call for. And head studs only.

Click to expand...

Main studs**

But if your adding a girdle I imagine you’re doing head work too so might as well do the head studs.

OP are you attempting to make your own girdle? They’re maybe 10mm thick. I too just had them installed without measuring.

The thickness is 1/4" (approxi 6.3mm).

i will cut my own `couse i am at estern europe and it is difficult to order from usa and will get double the price

DSMPT said:

The thickness is 1/4" (approxi 6.3mm).

Click to expand...

thanks did you measure it or ,there is info at kiggly webside that i didn`t sow ?

lanselotpower said:

thanks did you measure it or ,there is info at kiggly webside that i didn`t sow ?

Click to expand...

I measured it by a caliper. I have a damaged girdle from a blown engine lying around in the garage.

i am ready with the file (nice that we have near me waterjet to cut it) , just have to test it to some of my 16v blocks ( before i sent the file) ,couse i have only 8v block today

Looks like a good duplicate for you . On 6 bolt blocks, on the inside, at the back of the block (right inside of where the rear main seal is), there are 2 bumps that you will need to grind down so that the girdle will lay flat. Also, if you will ever use an automatic behind that engine, you should grind the "ears" down on the rear main seal housing to clear future converter bolts that can possibly come into contact with it. I think you can find it on Kigglys website but I think I did that mod on the current engine that I have on the stand. I will look and if so, post a picture of that.

They say that immitation is the sincerest form of flattery but it still feels weird to be giving pointers to someone looking to copy the product of a major supporting staple in the DSM community.
Just don't produce them in quantity for sale.. it would be terrible if yours had a failure due to poor material or design fault and people started associating it with Kiggly's product. Even if copyright isn't enforceable across the world, it would still be a dick punch.

Will Kiggly even ship oversea's I wonder? Some will, some won't.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

Looks like a good duplicate for you . On 6 bolt blocks, on the inside, at the back of the block (right inside of where the rear main seal is), there are 2 bumps that you will need to grind down so that the girdle will lay flat. Also, if you will ever use an automatic behind that engine, you should grind the "ears" down on the rear main seal housing to clear future converter bolts that can possibly come into contact with it. I think you can find it on Kigglys website but I think I did that mod on the current engine that I have on the stand. I will look and if so, post a picture of that.

Click to expand...

yes i sow that i have to grind the bumps but, too late my block is cleaned ...and i have to cleaned again after the grind... (

curt-s said:

They say that immitation is the sincerest form of flattery but it still feels weird to be giving pointers to someone looking to copy the product of a major supporting staple in the DSM community.
Just don't produce them in quantity for sale.. it would be terrible if yours had a failure due to poor material or design fault and people started associating it with Kiggly's product. Even if copyright isn't enforceable across the world, it would still be a dick punch.

Click to expand...

i wont sell or made other ones couse i am not intersted in that , and the price that waterjet will cost me with the material is like tha kigly original price, i would love to buy it from them ,but i have to pay shiping overseas , import taxes couse we are in EU , and have to wait it few months or weeks...
And if i want to make a profit i have more valouble things that i made and will sell better but dont need that .... , like my gearbox adapter plate that i design and made for 6bolt 4g63 to bmw ZF trans note that is a dummy engine only for makup

Sorry to get off topic but very interesting setup with the 4g/BMW trans combo. What are the plans there?

Also curious. Considering how much of the car's operation is tied into electronics and the various computers including the main ecu, the swap is definitely interesting. My brother has a E46 with m54 & 6 speed zf..

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

Sorry to get off topic but very interesting setup with the 4g/BMW trans combo. What are the plans there?

Click to expand...

street car e36with AC , it was before with the orginal bmw engine for 3 years M42b18 turbo GTW34 with 500whp (i have drag slips and dragy times and dynosheet and i sold my whole engine bay set up ,couse that was the limit of that engine .(heads of the bmw are pretty weak points). Now it s going to be fully forget 6 bolt 4g63 ,wiseco 1400hd BC rods with 625+, build head and more...new harness ( my old after market ecu i kept taht i didn sel it my friend is a tuner he tuned all my stuff for 10 years and will help me with that, and i am going to use all bmw sesnors

curt-s said:

Also curious. Considering how much of the car's operation is tied into electronics and the various computers including the main ecu, the swap is definitely interesting. My brother has a E46 with m54 & 6 speed zf..

Click to expand...

6speed zf is okish... but m54 not... only for NA, it has alym block , but head is ok it is strogner than m50 m52 head ... but m54 block is alum and weak m52 in usa is ok , couse have cast iron block , but in europe is with alym blok , i have friend with m54b30 turbo street car but he will get back to his orginal m50....
just put a 2jz in it fits perf in that car e46, i can`t do 6 cyl 2jz .... it is very bad for legal reasons here... 4g63 is 4 cilinder like me org engine

The upgraded rod bolts are a waste of money in a forced induction setup. We ran 7’s with arp 2000’s and never had a bottom end failure during the whole program. We went from 10’s to 7’s with hundreds of passes over 3 years.

In forced induction there is exhaust back pressure pushing down on the piston at tdc of the exhaust stroke. This takes a lot of load off the rod bolts.

donniekak said:

The upgraded rod bolts are a waste of money in a forced induction setup. We ran 7’s with arp 2000’s and never had a bottom end failure during the whole program. We went from 10’s to 7’s with hundreds of passes over 3 years.

In forced induction there is exhaust back pressure pushing down on the piston at tdc of the exhaust stroke. This takes a lot of load off the rod bolts.

Click to expand...

Another thread?

But good info nonetheless.

curt-s said:

Another thread?

But good info nonetheless.

Click to expand...

Replying to the comments above mine.


“Now it s going to be fully forget 6 bolt 4g63 ,wiseco 1400hd BC rods with 625+”

donniekak said:

Replying to the comments above mine.


“Now it s going to be fully forget 6 bolt 4g63 ,wiseco 1400hd BC rods with 625+”

Click to expand...

Ah I see it now
Thx Donnie

curt-s said:

Ah I see it now
Thx Donnie

Click to expand...

I thought it was quoted as a reply, but I guess not.

Either a forum bug with close together posts from the same person, or I forgot.

donniekak said:

The upgraded rod bolts are a waste of money in a forced induction setup. We ran 7’s with arp 2000’s and never had a bottom end failure during the whole program. We went from 10’s to 7’s with hundreds of passes over 3 years.

In forced induction there is exhaust back pressure pushing down on the piston at tdc of the exhaust stroke. This takes a lot of load off the rod bolts.

Click to expand...

they are not so exppensive so i thouhg why not, and when i am with manual gearbox and if i get wrong shift and get rev to the moon may be will helped or saved me , so i see you have experience with the platform , i read a lot of comments for the balance shaft delete, some of them use stub shaft oem for the oil pump other use for example gsc race shaft (long one) and others grind the oem balanc shaft(remove the balance part at mashine shop) appionions ?

We used oem stub shafts without issue. This is with a fuel pump driven off the belt as well.

Stub shafts here. No issues.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

Stub shafts here. No issues.

Click to expand...

donniekak said:

We used oem stub shafts without issue. This is with a fuel pump driven off the belt as well.

Click to expand...

i already bouht one oem , and straight cut gears(some very old logo it was hard to find ), but just wondering that long shaft will have more support........, but i think will put the stubby oem one like you
something interesting info if somebody wants to do 240mm clutch flywheel for 6 bolt there is oem flywheel for the pajero ofroad car (old one) has nice fly wheel for donor ( and it fits) my old set up with bmw engine ,i was made dual cluch set up with two 240 mm organic disk and diesl 240mm pressure plate, , it works like oem cluch i will do that kind of one for the 4g63.but i think it will not fit oem mitsubishi transmition bellhousing .. only for rwd set up with non mitsu transmition...