Ok i've been to 3 different dealerships and none of them have the crush washers for the oil return line. I would have to wait a week before any could be in. I need to put on my new line tonight so I can drive my car out of town this weekend. I can't find them at a O'Reilys, Napa, or Advanced...

Ok, i cant seem to find the right wire for a remote wire for my amp....i have the stock harness/radio and ive been stumped trying to find the right color of wire.....can anyone tell me which color wire i need for the remote wire?TIA JAmes

you could just get all new struts for about $165 on ebay for all four. they are the KYB GR-2. Sure they arent the AGX but if you dont mind a little stiffer ride...they are great for the job. cheap too. Also i believe they are the OEM replacements.

quick question...sorry for stealing...but if i were to use exhaust piping (steel piping)would this be ok? also what would help to stop it from heat soaking...like a wrap of some sort or even a metalizing job on the piping? have access to either/or so help me out.

i believe it si somewhere around 16(might be too low) 18-22 ish.

i thought they only fit the 1g T/E/L with the VR4 calipers.

Which is why the FD is so sweet because they can spin those rotors all the way up to 12k without a problem(well as long as they have the 3mm apex seals and other supporting mods) plus i believe the rotor is only spinning 1/3 of its rpm is saying...only if our dsms could go up that high...

hmm im guessing no one knows...darn, well i guess ill just have them do the front bearings and me do the rear bearings.

WTF hit you? or what did you hit...thats not even a blazer anymore.

Ok got my cv halfshaft done...after 7 different ones. I have a 93 TSi but the only halfshaft that fit was from a 95 T/E...i got 3 phone calls telling me about what parts are broke and what not. They said i need all new wheel bearings. 100 per bearing for rear and from. $366 for rear...

Ok so I have to make something in shop class :rollseyes: so i decided to make a catch can...i just need to know is there a vent or hole of some sort on top of the can to make a relief for the system? I have a box with a bolt on the bottom bent down to make a bowl like shape to the bolt. i just...

Why would he need to upgrade his tranny? I thought our trannys were strong enough for atleast 300 hp...or unless your talking about his stock nt tranny...if so...my bad ;)

Umm...check your fusible links under the hood. Some might have blown when you were doing the relocation. Also what about a clutch safety switch? is it connected or how did you bypass that?

well thanks for the replys but this is the way i had to end of doing it. I went to my local ace hardware and bought 4 copper flat washers. drilled the center out just barely a hair so they would go over the bolt. snug and not loose over the bolt. so then i just coated the 'mother' with copper...

Ok i've been to 3 different dealerships and none of them have the crush washers for the oil return line. I would have to wait a week before any could be in. I need to put on my new line tonight so I can drive my car out of town this weekend. I can't find them at a O'Reilys, Napa, or Advanced...

Be sure to have your deck resurfaced before you put the head back on. That way it'll be even somewhat(assuming your bottom end is still plane) ...have them replace any springs that seem bad and have them redo the gaps. mine only costed me $200 :( to get it all done and my dad is a machinist.

also do i need the egr block off plate to pull any of the lines off...they seem like they are all tied into one...asin the egr into the TVV into the throttle body...the the TVV lines still need connected witht the egr intact?what od i want to use for plugs...heat/shrink wrap? or what?

ok i dont know if i am getting the whole picture. do i pull all the hoses out that i dont need? im guessing the lines that are labled "R" or "B" or the colored indicated. im looking at the pics. and is this what i want to do: take out the evap emissions canister, remove the lines form the...

awesome thanks guys. parting out is what ill do then. thanks once again

ok i have a friend that just basically totaled his car. The engine looks untouched. the engine has around 130k with new timing belt and WP about 2000 miles ago and a new clutch with less than 5k. the head has been overhauled before it was bought. the front end of the car(driver side) is what...

that sucks...did u have the head planed when u did the rebuild? im assuming new headgasket and new headbolts and all the goodies...y would it do that? did u have the timing marks lined up right?

well this is how i cleaned mine....dumped it in some orange cleaner(machine shop stuff) and then used the steamer to clean it off (used at the machine shop) and then i used aluminum engine paint color to make it real nice and shining...it looks pretty good..

Ok i got the oem cd player from a 94 GS turbo and put it into my 93 TSI. i changed it from my equalizer one to the cd player becuz the rear speakers wouldnt work anymore and now they do but it seems like every bump i hit the speakers cut out. Lose wires in the back? plug ins? also the cd...

tell him that the car shouldnt be idling like that and talk him down a couple hundred bucks(saying that it will cost some more money to fix) and go buy a recirculated BOV

dude that sucks...it must be our nebraskan weather....but anyways, double plat spark plugs...i thought plat. sucked for spark plugs...u should be running the NGK BP7es or whatever they are called....(well this is for my turbo...dont know if its the same on N/T)

aluminized is way different then anodized and others...aluminized is a type of metalizing which makes the material harder than steel. i can't remember what type of aluminum we used but 8 months still no cracks....pushing 16 psi...

its the same thing....DOT3 brake fluidedit: mine was leaking also...just old age maybe...but it was leaking on the inside of the car. so i replaced it and no longer leaks... inpect from the inside and also around it on the outside of the cylinder. look for loose hose

ok here whats i have..pacesetter header(aluminized ...no longer need to worry about cracking) small 16g port and polish intake, head, exhaust manifolds valves been reseated and what not(rebuild head with less tahn 5K) stock injectors but i have another set of 450 waiting to be sent out...

check for fluid in your clutch resevior. if its not full...fill it up and bleed the system...mine did this right after i installed my slave cylinder and master cylinder...got all the air out now and no longer grinds into gears

yea so i went to go start my car for the morning before i leave for school, and i come back out to scrape the windows and i go by the exhaust and the snow behind it is covered in carbon. it was only at idle(well considering that the idle goes from 300-1500 every few seconds) i can't figure...

167 hp? thats sounds kinda bad...i know stock they have like 205 hp...at less psi. is your BOV recirculated or vented in atmosphere?

hey thanks a lot...its dark now but its will be a priority right after school

is it still effect me if i just have an oem clutch? and also i just got done bleeding again...before my clutch would engage right as soon as i let off...like no play at all...now there is like 1-1.5 inches before it grabs...this a good sign of all the air out or mostly out...now i think i can...

hmm ill have to check that....also would i have good numbers like that if my timing was off? and my engines bounces alot...so maybe the balance shaft or just cuz it wants to die every 2 seconds...kinda like the starting itself bounce....thx for the help so far...keep them coming

please people i need my car back. i couldnt drive my car in any other gears besides 2nd. it would do nothing but grind in going into first....also could it just be an air bubble or the slave rod being to short?

Ok today we installed a new master and slave cylinder...now heres the problem...we got them in...and we bled them(so we think) first time we treid to start the car in 1st...it moves while cranking..so i twisted the clutch thing from the master cylinder outward(towards teh firewall...so less...

leak down test....do i have put the engine (cams) lined up and then do the leak down?

ok here is what is going on. MY car at idle is around 8-10 depending on what it really wants to be at. when driving and letting off teh gas and letting the gear slow down...the vacuum is at 20 - 22 ? i did a compression test and here it goes #4= 170 #3=174 #2=174 #1 = 175. can it still be my...

the head is really easy to remove as soon as u get everything disconnected...as in throttle body lines, fuel injectors, plugs/wires, thermostat, turbo line(if u have it) and every thing basically...then remove valve cover...u might want to have a big cheater bar with a non impact wrench...i did...

well mine is kinda the same way...i am replacing the master and slave cylinder (clutch) and then im gonna do new fluid hoping to help this...my 3rd grinds after being warmed up...its when im racing but its not reallya grind...just a hesistaion.....idk ill post tomorrow and tell u if it helped..

just in case...u might want to replace that....looks kind of bad :)

is that from turbo back or catback?

isnt it true that they have more CFM (16g) compared to the 14b? so cant u get the same about of cfm at less psi? i dont really know...so any help will help out..

same thing here....the stupid annoying click from the seatbelt...my neg connection off the terminal plug came loose...

sorry for this but i just found this really funny...just the way u said it... :laugh: it made my day

the charge wire has and I-screw(i think that might be wrong of what its called) but u bolt it on the stud poking out...and then the plastic cap goes in the hole...just be sure not to ground urself out when tightening the alt. back on good...i blew my fusible link when i accidently did it.... :(...

how did you hook up your gauge? did you go through the ECU or did u just tap in to the o2 housing part? as in the wire from the sensor? do you have a good ground? mine kept on cutting out do it was #1 grounding itself out from the power line and also a bad ground

ok mine is at 10 also...how long should this be fixed....like should i have done it within a week or so...or could i go say...7 months? :rolleyes: i just hope there is no long term damage...any help will help

hey my friends VR4 cant hold that in first either....in first it hits 15...then about 4000-4500K it goes down to 10....his turbos arent big enough to hold that about of CFM(?) in his first gear....all the other it boost to 17 all day...on track at 98 degrees... its just his 1st gear...(speaking...

this happened to me also...same way too...chiltons...started it up...started all right...then now ...6 months later...still lumpy...so im gonna redo it with new hg and every thing...and make sure i do it right...i also think i might have it off a tooth or two..and also the balance shaft...(it...