ok well 1 last question, if im going through all this trouble should i just get new rods also? as the ones i have are stock shot peened, and im guna have my friend who has a engine machine shop to reasemble it all as im scared to get grit in the cranks and im guna have hot tank it as well

so i might as well just get a full set of Ross pistons then? and hone all 4 cylinders? what about the bearings

ok well i need to replace the piston in cylinder #1 as i dropped a valve, when i unhook the rod, do i have to put new rod bearings or just leave the original in? and what if the bearing moves, will that affect anything when i put it back together, im ordering just 1 Ross 8.3:1 piston as the rest...

well if anything i might just buy a used complete block and run that, should hold the 475hp i was making with ease i believe.

so all i have to do is re-hone it if there is no dents in the cylinder? the wall feels smooth to me. so if i buy the same pistons i can still re-use the rods i have correct?

ok so to start i had a valve drop and lodge itself into 1 of my Ross pistons, it put a hole in the piston but did not go all the way through, i was wondering if i could just have it tig welded and be fine, but in the likely event i have to get new pistons, i was told the block was .020 over but...

Yes its at 0% idle and i slowly watched it go up till i hit full throttle 100%

I swapped it with my friends and same thing

Ive swapped all the injectors, even borrowed my buddies 1050s, no change, they are all firing, they are low impedance, ive changed the power transistor with a known working one, and also bought a brand new coil pack.I dont know how to check the base or mechanical timing thats why i had RRE do...

New Thread made.http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/break-up-and-idle-issues.510409/

1). Any boost, vac, or exhaust leaks? Tested up to 35psi with no leaks2). Verified mechanical timing? Yes 3). Verified base timing? Yes 4). Ignition system COP or Stock Coil: Stock Brand New Wire brand and Age: NGK 3 months old Spark Plug brand, type and Gap: BR8ES Gapped at .0225). Motor...

Where is this sub forum you speak of?

ok im confused, stumped, bamboozled, beat. i changed the coil pack and power transistor with no change. im pulling the intercooler off right now to see if maybe a rag or something got stuck in it. its idled like this since the engine was swapped in but ran great. so idle runs on cyl 1-4 and once...

Want to make me a list and ill start from there?thats why im waiting for the new coilpack. Hopefull that fixes it. But while im waiting i might just pull the coilpack off my known running gst and see if it makes a difference. These coil packs are a bi*** to remove. Still trying to figure out...

Must be the video cause it is not loud at all. And i dont know how to fix the fuel trims but im waiting for the new coil pack and im going to go from there. 1 thing at a time so im not wasting money.

But i want to have fun with my car not blow a rod out the side or blow a hole in the piston with NOS lol

Its V3 Full with the newest firmware to support the flex fuel sensor

I have the tune saved in my email and when it started running bad i downloaded it and put all those settings in from the dyno day with no change. So ive reverted back to the tune RRE did for me. And i dont have a Maf to put back on. I have no stock parts for this car at all as i bought it on...

Nope still was having problems with 2 and 3 when i swapped injectors. So i just have to wait for the new coil packs i ordered to come and see if that fixes the problem.What sucks is I have 2 non running dsms lol just traded my buddy my civic for his 90 gst but that one has a 20g turbo with...

Ok well heres "another" video of how the injector/spark plug test went and also another round the block log, but the o2 sensor is finally cycling, im going to try and find some one with some at least 1200cc injectors as when the car was tuned they said i was at about 90% duty cycle on the Fic...

I will try that and if its the same thing i guess ill buy new injectors

Ok i might have found the problem. I pulled the wires while it was idling but cylinder 2 and 3 wites pulled it idled the same. So it seems as if its running on 2 cylinders only. So i pulled those wires and put an old spark plug in the wire and at idle it was still ignighting on cylinders 2 and...

Thats the first thing i did was retrace. As all ive touched was the turbo, injectors, and spark plugs. I have a new coil pack on the way and im going to swap the power transitor from my gst to see if it could be that

No smoke when driving. At least non i see and non my friend folowing me could see

How would i go about fixing the airflowperrev? I would take the car back to RRE but every one has got there tax money and RRE is over a month booked..

Fpr is connected as is the brake booster and boost gauge. I should have specified all vaccum to the evap system has been deleted. Im not ignoring anything. You guys are saying to do things ive checked already. There is some stuff i havnt check that you guys have told me and i will get on that...

I will check plugs tomorrow, but my main concern is driving it. I dont mind a 1k - 1.2k idle i just want it to drive correctly. So ill buy a coil tomorrow. And any ome in here have at least 1200cc injectors they will trade for a Vbox Sport?

turbo is the same, the injectors are the same just clean and with new seals, the tune is saved on my computer and i have not change the settings on the actual tune, this car was idling wierd when it was tuned but stayed idling and it ran great..heres a vid of how the car sounded when it was...

i dont have a vacuum pump and all my vacuum lines have been deleted, also the egr valve was deleted also with a block off plate from extremepsi, im going to check for misfire first but i live in a state that gets no rain and all of a sudden were flooded in and its raining every day so once it...

I killed the fp green that was in it and sent it in to fp to rebuild it so the same turbo

Nope misfire is still there. Shocked the shit outa myself. Coil seems good. Ive t ried lowering target idle speed to 900 with no change. Litterally nothing has vhanged since the car was tuned at road race besides a turbo going boom. I drove the car back to the shop after the tirbo blew i was...

I will try that but the plugs are new and so are the ngk wireset. And i found out after i made the video that the reason it wouldnt idle is because it was reading an Omni 4 bar Map when i should be reading and Omni 3 bar. So it idles now at 1300 rpm but still cant get it lower without it dieing

With water duhhhh, nah i bought a injector pulser and a fuel injector cleaning rig and shot some berrymans injector clean through while they pulsed but first i let them sit in a small bath of the berrymans but only the bottom half, then i back flushed them...My car was tuned by Sam at Road...

I cleaned the intercooler. And compression was 150psi across the board. I put new spark plugs gapped to .018. Cleaned the injectors and put new o rings and seals

Its on speed density. 1050cc injectors with Crower 272s. I did a smoke test with my smoke machine and no leaks at the manifold

Car was already tuned at road race engineering so the e85 is fine. I went for1 pass and it ran awesome and then the turbo died. I finally got the new turbo and put it on and now it wont go past 3500-4000 without breaking upHeres a log just driving around the block

I dont know were to start. I had the car dynoed at RRE and then went for a nice pull. Well as i was reaching my boost max the compressor housing came off and killed the compressor blade. I towed it home and finally got the turbo back on, but cant for the life of me get it to idle or even drive...

nvm killed the tranny last night, grinds in all gears, power shifting ftw...

once this engine blows it will be tuned on e85 but till then i want to make as much power as i can on this engine without knock on 110

I finally ran my car at the drag strip and it was a good run of 12.5 seconds, i noticed i was getting alittle bit of knock throut the run but didnt feel it break up at all. on a 91 tune shouldnt 110 octane kill off all knock? if not can some one point me in the right direction of how to change...

Ok well i did a 1st thru 3rd pull up to about 95mph, for some odd reason im getting hella knock. my car was tuned for 30 psi of boost on 91 octane so i can see why im getting some knock. But on this pull i mixed it up alittle and added 7 gallons of 100 octane unleaded and the rest 91, wouldnt...

i changed the old latch out and now its closing and opening as it should.

wow, luckily i saved the settings after it was dynod, put those settings back in and it now runs perfectly fine..

I will do that, no clue why it reverted to maf settings, and im using a wideband from Glowshift, which is hooked to the ecu for logging

Ok so after probing the connector, im seeing 4.6v to the iat sensor and a ground, on the map sensor the first prong has 4.9v the middle has nothing, and the 3rd is grounded.What next?Heres a log and a few videos of what i did, and how the car is running.MAF Cable VidRunning Vid

i dont see how the timing would have jumped from just shutting it off, and ya plugs are probably gone, thankfully i bought 8 from rock auto lol

ill try but the car dosnt even want to stay running

Ok, heres what happend. i was at the races about 40 miles from my house, as im on the freeway doing about 90mph my hood flys open and smashes the windshield aand bends the hood, i drive it slowly to the gas station and wait for a tow truck, as the tow truck gets to me i tell him i can drive it...

I made another video and with that bolt they used as an extended rod it maxes out the travel of the shift fork to the trans.. Does this mean i have to pull it?

Well i checked most of that, nuts are tight on the trans and transfer case, they did add a longer slave rod and it was still having the problem, i switched the shift lever on the trans from my other trans and now i'm getting 5th and Rev, here is a video of the disengagement if it means anything...