FWIW, my old HKS 272s didn't kill bottom end torque at all with my 16G/Cyclone setup. I was still able to stall it up on the stock tight AF 1G converter. Don't have experience with any other 272 on a 16G setup though.
Pulled the wheels and the axles. Drained the trans too. Now all that's left is pulling the t-case and dropping the trans for HOPEFULLY the last time.Although IDK if it's normal or not, but I swear my MT90 has a couple congealed spots. There's no metal in it, fluid is clear AF, but when...
Got the axles out. The key this time was having my wife hold the axle straight/parallel and turn it slowly while I did the “wrist flick” thing with a prybar and it came out with such little effort I actually asked aloud “did that just actually work?” To which my wife promptly answered “yes”...
Well, awhile back(like, months) I bought the missing north/south bar aka crossmember aka wtfeverelseitscalled that runs underneath the transmission(passenger side north/south bar). I did this because while removing the transmission and heli-coiling the trans under the car awhile back, I took...
I purchased an OEM passenger side crossmember/north-south bar/whatever the f*** its called(it attaches to the core support, runs under the transmission, and bolts to the body) awhile back and it's a rusty, greasy UNIT baby.Well, finally got a little freetime so I degreased it, washed it...
https://www.diyautotune.com/product/map-gm-3-bar-map-sensor/Maybe try that one? It talks about the cheap chinese made Delphi units coming apart on people, and that theirs apparently don't have that problem?What worries me is the Omnipower sticker on the stock-photo they used. If it's just...
I feel like I’ve officially joined the old man club. I actually just bought a pair of safety glasses because I’m sick to death of getting rust and dirt and god knows what else in my eye everytime I’m under this damn thing. Lol.But yeah. Feels surreal. No more safety squints.
Operation Slow-as-molasses is proceeding on schedule.Which means I removed the exhaust today. Transmission will be removed by a thousand paper cuts.From here only things left are axles removed, t-case dropped, then trans unbolted and dropped.
Finally got around to doing something I needed to do for like 6+ months. Properly hand wash and detail the Edge.So much better. Next time I do it, I'm gonna bring my polisher and do a compound/polish paint correction on it then properly ceramic coat it. But man am I happy compared to...
Hijacking this thread, anyone got a comparison of the OEM clutch master vs non-oem clutch master? Is there a quick and easy way to tell by looking at it externally?
Operation Slow and Steady is going swimmingly.Removed the battery, battery tray, intake, UICP, starter, and shift cables.Woot. Gonna chill for the rest of the day, take my time and pull the trans at my own pace. So far so good. Tomorrow I might do more, might not. We’ll see.While I...
I distinctly remember those plugs in the door, and they were plugged in. I’ll dig further.What’s weird is when I opened the passenger door for the first time with the battery installed, the auto seatbelt retracted/opened. So it sensed the door opening. It just has never sensed it closed...
Jacked the car up and promptly got distracted.First up was this.Just a quick blip of the throttle. No transmission noise, yay! There's still some gremlins, but eh. One step at a time.After I got it jacked up, I got sick of the mismatched door cards for the door panels. So I popped...
For some reason I legit never thought of this. Doing it piecemeal over a period of time…mind blown. Gonna actually do that.Sounds sarcastic but I mean it. 100% gonna do that.
How do you like that TruBoostX? I know it's a waste of money since my gauges all work fine, but I 100% want to swap my old AEM digital gauges, for all AEM X gauges. TruBoost X, X-series wideband, and etc.
Evo guys use the iridium’s a lot, but they’re used to throwing money at their platform.I’m with Curt and spleen though, just throw some coppers in there and change them as needed. They’re cheap AF enough and well proven. Use BR7ES
Just for giggles though, what’s the symptoms of a clutch fork adjusted too far to the drivers side/an over-engaging clutch system?Also: God I'm so lazy. I would totally pay someone to come pull my damn transmission for me, if there was someone local and willing. ROFL
...looks so much better than the corroded old half-eaten away polished one. But can I just say, getting that c-clip in there properly and tight is a B*TCH. Using a long, thiccc flat-blade screwdriver to press down on the back while you press on the front with c-clip pliers is how I got it in...
Looks like a KM transmission but I can’t tell. It looks like someone stamped a custom code over the actual spot where it would normally say “KM123” or FM522 or whatever.
That’s why I had it shipped to Tim Zimmer. He measured every single bit. It’s .608” everywhere.Like…as in how I clean the holes? Or literally video me impacting them off?
Woohoo. It’s so new and purdy.Not sure if I’m gonna install it this weekend or not. I hate dropping this f*cking transmission. Lol. But it’s nice I have it.
To answer your question yeah it’s fine to use a 2G TPS. 2G TPS just has the idle switch and TPS in one. You already have that plug and wiring so use that one.
Randomly reminds me I tried playing with two step/als in link and it wasn’t activating. Need to address that.But this is all good info. Keep it coming.
I'm hoping it doesn't come to that. Reaaaaally hoping it's either the flywheel's fault, or the master's fault. Don't wanna count my chickens before they hatch.
Hey guys, I’ve had these for a little while but wanted to see if they would in fact fix the PS leak that I had. These are the two o-rings that go on the upper power steering pump(where the line attaches) to seal the line to the pump. Very common place to leak. These completely fixed the leak at...
I'll measure mine just to do it at this point and post it up. Might see if I wanna post a thread and have others all measure theirs. Ridiculous you can't just give someone a straight answer. I'm sure if ACT or other clutch companies wanted to copy you they'd just do what everyone else does...
Make 250whp reliably first, then step up to a 16G and do low-mid 300’s reliably first. Tuning yourself the whole way. By the time you’re done with that it’ll have taught you the nature of how to keep a DSM running and reliable, and you’ll know intimately what you’ll need to 400HP and beyond.
He actually CC’ed two other people and I think he forgot he did that because at the bottom was his email to two other guys asking “are we actually gonna tell him what the thickness is?” Like it’s some trade secret. lol