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1G Timing / biss adjustment

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ROOKIE1

ROOKIE1

15+ Year Contributor
2,820
3
Aug 25, 2003
Walton, Kentucky
Ok , so profile is up to date . I have everything reassembled . All timing marks ( cams and crank ) line up . Car starts idles wildly dies . If I give it gas it will run , although at high rpms and rough . How do I check these things with a car that will not stay running . Is a 90 Talon . New on car are arps, e316g , Stage 2 sbr head , oil pump , water pump , no bs , tensioner , tensioner pulleys , evo mani , new plugs range 6 or 7 , 20 over bore w/ wiseco 8.5-1 in block .
 
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if your idle problem is from a miss-aligned biss then just screw the biss all the way in and start the car and back it out till idle is where you want it.
 
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Tried that already . Also biss screw and or ring are new . Does anyone think maybe with the stageII SBR head , it is just overrun with airflow . So not enough fuel ? Do I need to install my safc before I can fix this ?
 
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95-talontsi said:
if your idle problem is from a miss-aligned biss then just screw the biss all the way in and start the car and back it out till idle is where you want it.
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NO!! That is not how you adjust BISS, the isc needs to be relieved of its duties before the BISS can be adjusted.

1G BISS adjustment.

Ignition timing adjustment.

ROOKIE1, are you sure the wires are in correct order?
 
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ROOKIE1 said:
Tried that already . Also biss screw and or ring are new . Does anyone think maybe with new hew , it is just overrun with airflow . So not enough fuel ? Do I need to install my safc before I can fix this ?
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Just read your profile, are you running the 550's without tuning?
 
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oops:( Thats how I adjusted mine when I put a new biss in. I didn't mean to give incorrect information :cry:

I better go adjust mine the proper way now.:coy:
 
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ROOKIE1 said:
Wires are correct . I have those links from vfaq . How can I adjust those with car not staying started ?
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Forget those for now, how about answering my second question about the 550's?
 
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oldman said:
Just read your profile, are you running the 550's without tuning?
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Yes . I have had the 550s for about 18 months . Fuel pump is still stock also . I have a 180 walbro , just not installed yet .That was next but wanted to get it running first . That way I did'nt have so many new things to troubleshoot if problems came up . So the only things that have not been rebuilt or replaced are the AC condenser , power steering pump , throttle body , and intake .
 
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First thing first, either 550s need to come out and replaced by 450s or the safc and logger need to go in so you can compensate for the 550s. I think you already know this.
 
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I do know this . :) But I did not know or do not know about settings for the safc . I assume the upgrades performed are keeping it from running ? Not enough fuel , to much air kind of thing .
 
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Is it to much fuel from the amount of air intake ? Or because of 550's ? Or more metered air being read so dumping in to much fuel , because the ecu thinks it is suppling 450's and not the 550's I actually have in there ? But it always started before with 550's . The rebuilt bottom and head are the new factors . That is why I asked about air . I do not want it to seem like I am questioning you , I just want to understand better . :thumb:
 
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I'm not saying it's your only problem but it's definitely a problem, put the 450s in there already. New head and block will not have effect on air/fuel ratio, did you check timing marks? compression test?
 
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Timing marks are dead on . No comp test . Don't have 450's to swap . I read the tech on tuning , so I need to install my safc . Have directions from vfaq . This may take me a few days so when I am done I will update . I know it is only an hour job , but with work and small children , time is not something I have alot of .
 
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It is in and hooked up . I set it just like they show here , http://roadraceengineering.com/newafcsetting.htm. What do I check first ? It starts then stalls right away . I can not even get out to manually give it throttle after I start it . No cels . I have a logger with mmcd . What do I need to look at ? It may be time for a rag in the tank .:sosad:
 
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Fuel trim low ? What about m & h ? Also is the info on road race ok . It has all lo throttle settings positive . If the oldman is right I should not have them set like rre shows for 550's with honeycombs out . Positive does mean more fuel correct ?
 
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Auto RS T said:
You need to look at the FTRL when the car is idling to see if you are running rich.

Re-verify the initial AFC settings are correct.
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Initial settings are correct , karmen , 4cyl , arrow up ... I started car , got a code for mafs . I unplug that it stays running , like shit but running . My ftrls read 103% . Good or bad , does not matter I can not change them :mad: . WTF . Also with maf unplugged I get 3 other codes , baro , ? , coolant temp sensor . What now ?
 
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Did you remove both honeycombs? Or just the lower?

All the codes that came up in addition to the MAF code are wired into the maf so if you removed the plug I can see why it would throw these extra codes.

On a 1G trims around 100 are good. You can change the trims with the AFC. How long did you let it run? The trims take a while to change.

I said the low trim only because at idle the car will be in the low trim range.
 
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Auto RS T said:
Did you remove both honeycombs? Or just the lower?

All the codes that came up in addition to the MAF code are wired into the maf so if you removed the plug I can see why it would throw these extra codes.

On a 1G trims around 100 are good. You can change the trims with the AFC. How long did you let it run? The trims take a while to change.

I said the low trim only because at idle the car will be in the low trim range.
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Followed free mods over a year ago for honeycombs , do not remember . I did unplug maf . It ran around 10-15 minutes maybe longer , after it reach operating temps ( full warm up ) . How long to get them to change 1-2-3 minutes ? Next is what ? Replace maf ? :sneaky: Upgrade to gm maf and translator .:cry: :confused:
 
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