Changed to links, pics are way over the size limit.

L2RTSiAWD said:

Changed to links, pics are way over the size limit.

Click to expand...

Cool with me Next time i'll just put the links.

By the way in case anyone doesn't know this is a 90 Talon TSi AWD. The car turns over but will not spark and I have new plugs wires and plugs and I have tried two different coil packs and I am not getting spark at any cylinder. I checked using the plug in cable and crank while near a ground test and no spark from any cable. DSMLink seems to be functioning so I don't think its the ECU but I could be wrong. I have pretty much narrowed it down to these connectors CAS and the transistor pack.

The wires in the first pic that go behind the shiny aluminum shield go to the injectors resistors pack. Don't know the 2nd pic. Did you check the ECU for leaking caps inside? DSMLink working just means that part of the ECU works.

To test the power transistors:
(Note: The pin numbers for the following are the ones on the power transistor side connector – not the ones on the harness side connector (for which I put the wire color in parenthesis for reference).

On a 90 turbo or NT:
Unplug the power transistor 6 pin connector.

To test the power transistor for cylinders 1 & 4:
Connect the negative side of a 1.5V battery to pin 3 (black wire) of the connector. Connect the negative side of a 12V battery also to pin 3. Connect the 12V battery positive to one side of a 12V light bulb. Connect the other side of the 12V light bulb to pin 1 (yellow/green). The light should not be on. Now connect the 1.5V battery positive to pin 2 (yellow). The light should go on.

To test the power transistor for cylinders 2 & 3:
Connect the negative side of a 1.5V battery to pin 3 (black wire) of the connector. Connect the negative side of a 12V battery also to pin 3. Connect the 12V battery positive to one side of a 12V light bulb. Connect the other side of the 12V light bulb to pin 6 (yellow/black). The light should not be on. Now connect the 1.5V battery positive to pin 5 (yellow/red). The light should go on.

Yep, injector resistor pack and alternator plug with the power steering pressure switch branching off in the second and third pictures.

So the question is where is the other end of the injector harness that the resistor pack plugs into?

Steve

Ok I hooked the alternator plug up DOAH! and that little wire on that same connector that goes to the nipple near the alternator and the ground type hook up that mounts behind the bolt. Did that and changed CAS's even made sure I hooked it up right with the crank at top dead center and slipped the CAS in and made sure not to wiggle or anything like that. STILL NO SPARK !

So now the car has a new CAS and the now the wiring has been checked. The other end of the resistor pack goes to that connector right below it which goes into the main harness. The one in the second picture in the middle of the harness is the diagnostic tester for the fuel pump go figure. I don't need that though cause DSMLink has a built in pump tester.

That test sounds good but to be honest it would easier and less time consuming just to change power transistor packs wouldn't it?

I think from what I have read that its' down to my transistor pack and the ECU . I really hope it isn't the ECU but it did have some board damage underneath it and it had one jumper but it seems that jumpers aren't uncommon. It cost me 300 bucs not including socketing cause it's the most rare ECU type.

Any fuses that you guys know of or simple stuff like that I may have ignored or overlooked? I still need to find out what this connector is by the clutch master cylinder?

http://i4.tinypic.com/15fkwt1.jpg

http://i4.tinypic.com/15flhxl.jpg

http://i4.tinypic.com/15flik2.jpg

Those are the new pics of the connectors I still don't know where to connect??????


http://i5.tinypic.com/15flj74.jpg

That's the alternator plug hooked up. Atleast I'm makin progress