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2nd gear wheel hop

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DSMcamaro

15+ Year Contributor
1,049
25
Feb 25, 2005
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Well I dont know if adding a blow-thru MAFT setup is cause fast enough spool up time to give me mad wheep hop, but I never had a problem with wheel hop in second gear before I add the MAFT and prothane motor mounts. I start to get a little wheel hop in first and then once I hit 5000-5500 RPM's in second, it bounces like crazy. Now since I only added the prothanes and did nothing else to prevent wheel hop, could they just actually make my wheel hop worse? I'm still running my stock suspension so obviously upgrading that would help, but I dont know when I'll be able to upgrade and would like to get in some decent races before then. I have bascially brand new tires. Altough since i was playing around on the street, they have 40psi in them. Could dropping them down to 25Psi help a lot? And as far as when I go to the track, will they hopefully hook up their with 20psi or so in the tires on a better traction surface?
 
I do believe that I have heard that prothane motor mounts would contribute to wheel hop more than stock mounts would, Ill see if I can find where I read that, someone correct me if Im wrong, but I would definately lower your tires to like 30 psi, that would do, and upgrading the stock suspension will definately aid in preventing wheel hop. As far as the track psi, I cant help you there, sorry, never been to the track.


EDIT: Sorry, upgrading the motor mounts to prothane are supposed to help with wheel hop, or reduce it at least, sorry about that.
 
I guess I'm looking for anyone that might of had the same problem and can pin point what will help the most. I also want to make sure i'm not missing anything. ( I know LSD would help, but that wont come anytime soon)
 
We had a problem when we drop a motor into my friends mazdaspeed. We didn't tighten the mounts all the way or they came loose so we put some lock-tight on the bolts. No more wheel hop, just way tooo much power.
 
Yea, I thought of that too and I've re-checked all my motor mounts and they are all tight.
 
urathane mounts help but if your running 40psi on the track nothings gonna help. Drop that air pressure stat! I dont reccomend that much on the street. I know it has to ride hard. Too much air will have you riding on the very center of the tire and not the whole tire. Too little air will have you rididng on the edges, the idea of course is to try and ride evenly on the tire. I say about 35 psi on the street "for long tread life" and its trial and error at the track Id start @ 35 and work my way down. Too low and your mph will drop. Good luck, go out and try it and let us know!
 
Well my tires call for 44 max psi so i figure 40 is a pretty good number for everyday driving. And i am also well aware of the effects of underinlfated and overinflated tires. I always drop the pressure when I'm at the track and have an air tank near by.
 
Thats the MAX inflation thats on the side of the tire, that doesnt mean thats how much you need to run in em. Try what I was telling you and report back. And what kind of tires and what size are they?
 
skinnykenny84 said:
urathane mounts help but if your running 40psi on the track nothings gonna help. Drop that air pressure stat! I dont reccomend that much on the street. I know it has to ride hard. Too much air will have you riding on the very center of the tire and not the whole tire. Too little air will have you rididng on the edges, the idea of course is to try and ride evenly on the tire. I say about 35 psi on the street "for long tread life" and its trial and error at the track Id start @ 35 and work my way down. Too low and your mph will drop. Good luck, go out and try it and let us know!

40 PSI is definately high. My tires on my old Celica required 40 as well, I ran 30 PSI and had no problems.
 
They are Copper Zeon ZPT 225/45/17. keep in mind im talking about tire pressure on the street right now. running 30psi in a tire that calls for 44 max would probably end up wearing the edges a little fast.

-skinny, I'll probably try 35psi though.
 
If you're going to the track, by all means lower your tire pressure to dial in the response you need for a hard launch. But daily driving 10 psi lower than the sidewall rating is simply dangerous. I think it was Car and Driver a couple years ago that ran an article where they tested cars with different tire pressures in emergency maneuvers and just 5 psi under the rated pressure affected handling DRASTICALLY. I think it's safe to say that the engineers who determined the reccomended tire pressure knew a hell of a lot more than we do about what that specific tire needs. I don't mean to come off as preachy, but you're not the only one on the road. So not only for your safety but the safety of others ALWAYS run the reccomended pressure.
 
deathtomoney said:
If you're going to the track, by all means lower your tire pressure to dial in the response you need for a hard launch. But daily driving 10 psi lower than the sidewall rating is simply dangerous. I think it was Car and Driver a couple years ago that ran an article where they tested cars with different tire pressures in emergency maneuvers and just 5 psi under the rated pressure affected handling DRASTICALLY. I think it's safe to say that the engineers who determined the reccomended tire pressure knew a hell of a lot more than we do about what that specific tire needs. I don't mean to come off as preachy, but you're not the only one on the road. So not only for your safety but the safety of others ALWAYS run the reccomended pressure.
good thing I'll only be 9psi lower:D Just kidding. I understand what your saying and I've bascially always been running 3-4 psi under the MAX inflation rate on the street for the best combo for wear, traction, and safety.
 
You should be running a few psi over the factory recommended pressure for you car. I run about 34-36 psi at the most depending on conditions. If you really run 40 psi, try measuring the pressure on a hot day after a long drive, especially after some spirted driving. A little to high...wasnt it? :| Remember, you always check pressure when completely cold, when the car has been sitting in a garage or in cool area for several hours. That pressure will raise a lot once the tires heat up, and also if you go up in altitude. If you run a few psi below the maximum safe pressure, you're really pushing it if you do some hard driving and/or go up in altitude. Road racers have to be careful to keep the pressure under the max in track conditions, as hard driving raises the pressure enough to be dangerous unless you keep the hot pressure under the maximum.
 
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