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Act 2600 engaging problem

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stanginDSM

Probationary Member
16
0
Sep 16, 2005
lexington, Kentucky
Ok the mitsu guy got my tranny back in with new act 2600 clutch on my 92gsx and im haveing a broblem getting it to engage. wouldnt engage at all at first and he adjusted the cylinder all the way out and it got better, but the clutch is grabbing very low to the floor and is hard to get in gear when engine is running. sometimes i have to hit the clutch 2 or 3 times to get it in gear and hard to get it there. how can i get it to push farther forward or has anyone else had this problem and any suggestions.
 
try simple fixes like flushing and refilling your clutch fluid system, also, some new BG syncromesh is never a bad thing:thumb:
 
i will try those things, but i dont think it will work. feels like its not engaging, like if i could push the pedal down more it would work. and its grabbing right off the floor.
 
okay this subject has been covered many times but here is some solutions

first did you make sure you resurfaced your flywheel and make the step hieght to around .610"?

did you bleed your lines very very very well?
did you check to make sure if there is free play with the clutch pedal?(move the pedal with your hand and look up at the spring part behind the gas pedal, if the pedal moves before the rod)
is your flex line bubbling up when you press the clutch?
check to make sure your fork isnt bent or broken
do you have the right release bearing?


okay now here are some solutions

bleed that line like there aint no tomorrow.

adjust the master cylinder rod out or in (12mm to loosen the nut the channel lock pliers to turn the rod)

if you have play in the pedal just go to the dealer and get a new one, i got the assembly and all the bearings needed for something like $89

check if your master cylinder is leaking in the car or by the resevrior if it is change it

change the flex line with a stainless steel line. can be found at slowboyracing

check if the slave cylinder leaks ( push the rod in with your hand and see if fluid comes out) if it is replace

and if all that is okay and you still have the problem then do these

shim the pivot ball assembly to make sure the fork pushes at a 90* angle

buy a extended slave rod from slowboyracing

buy an already resurfaced flywheel from roadraceengineering.

and if that doesnt do it then im guessing the pressure plate is bad.

hope this helps you if you need help just let me know trust me ive done this on both a 93 awd and a 90 fwd
 
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/c...ywheeltech.htm
That article is really good.
I hope you either installed a new flywheel with the correct step height, or your stocker should've been resurfaced and then restepped.

First things first, climb under your steering column and look at the clutch pedal assembly.
Use your hand on the pedal and look around and see if you can see the slop in the assembly.
2600's are notorious for creating this problem because they have so much pedal pressure.

You may need to adjust your clutch pedal push rod.
There is a rod that goes thru the firewall and attaches to your clutch pedal.
There is a 12mm nut on that rod backed up against a bracket that attaches to your clutch pedal.
I used a flare nut wrench, or a line wrench.
That nut feels really soft, and a regular wrench will round the nut off.
Lossen that nut and turn the rod using a 1/4" wrench, there are two little flats on that rod.
If I remember correctly, turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise to raise the pedal.
If I were you, I'd call the mechanic and ask him if he'd be willing to adjust it for you, and to check out the clutch pedal assembly.
Good luck and tell us how it goes.
 
97_eclipse_gst said:
http://www.roadraceengineering.com/c...ywheeltech.htm
That article is really good.
I hope you either installed a new flywheel with the correct step height, or your stocker should've been resurfaced and then restepped.

First things first, climb under your steering column and look at the clutch pedal assembly.
Use your hand on the pedal and look around and see if you can see the slop in the assembly.
2600's are notorious for creating this problem because they have so much pedal pressure.

You may need to adjust your clutch pedal push rod.
There is a rod that goes thru the firewall and attaches to your clutch pedal.
There is a 12mm nut on that rod backed up against a bracket that attaches to your clutch pedal.
I used a flare nut wrench, or a line wrench.
That nut feels really soft, and a regular wrench will round the nut off.
Lossen that nut and turn the rod using a 1/4" wrench, there are two little flats on that rod.
If I remember correctly, turn the adjusting screw counter clockwise to raise the pedal.
If I were you, I'd call the mechanic and ask him if he'd be willing to adjust it for you, and to check out the clutch pedal assembly.
Good luck and tell us how it goes.

looks like im going to have to take tranny back out. i never had heard of stepping a flywheel, had it resurfaced. i didnt shim the pivot ball either or replace the fork, so i will do that while im in there.
 
h3o said:
buy a extended slave rod from slowboyracing


Good advice with the exception of this ^^

The extended slave rod will do nothing. It doesn't add extra output at the slave. The clutch hydraulics is defined by ratios of the pedal, MC diameter, clutch line diameter, and slave diameter. For a given pedal input (ie degrees of swing) the MC will push X amount of fluid. The reaction is the slave, which reacts to the amount of fluid being displaced by the MC. The output can only change if you change the ratios of the hydraulics or the pedal.

And again, the rest of your advice was great.
 
Morphius said:
Good advice with the exception of this ^^

The extended slave rod will do nothing. It doesn't add extra output at the slave. The clutch hydraulics is defined by ratios of the pedal, MC diameter, clutch line diameter, and slave diameter. For a given pedal input (ie degrees of swing) the MC will push X amount of fluid. The reaction is the slave, which reacts to the amount of fluid being displaced by the MC. The output can only change if you change the ratios of the hydraulics or the pedal.

And again, the rest of your advice was great.


thanks but dont wanna start anything, the extended slave does work. How do i know? because this was our last effort in fixing the engagement problem. The master cylinder rod was at its last threads so we decided to try this. After we put the extended slave rod in we had a lot more play with the MC rod.

Also to add to this, The extended slave rod is a last ditch effort thing, fix it right do the steps above.
 
9 times out of 10 the flywheel was machined wrong. Had it done to me twice and to numerous friends as well.
 
h3o said:
thanks but dont wanna start anything, the extended slave does work. How do i know? because this was our last effort in fixing the engagement problem. The master cylinder rod was at its last threads so we decided to try this. After we put the extended slave rod in we had a lot more play with the MC rod.

Also to add to this, The extended slave rod is a last ditch effort thing, fix it right do the steps above.

Misadjustment is why it worked for you. If the master was on it's last threads, I know it was misadjusted. Your hydraulic system was in cut-off. The key is if you can push the slave rod back into the body of the slave. If you can't it's misadjusted.

Plain and simple, the extened slave rod can't work unless one has misadjusted the hydraulics, which can lead to other issues (premature failure of the TOB, slipping clutch as clutch wears in, damaged pp fingers, pump up of the hydraulics which can damage the pp)

No intent to badger you, simply out to point out the facts.
 
Morphius said:
Misadjustment is why it worked for you. If the master was on it's last threads, I know it was misadjusted. Your hydraulic system was in cut-off. The key is if you can push the slave rod back into the body of the slave. If you can't it's misadjusted.

Plain and simple, the extened slave rod can't work unless one has misadjusted the hydraulics, which can lead to other issues (premature failure of the TOB, slipping clutch as clutch wears in, damaged pp fingers, pump up of the hydraulics which can damage the pp)

No intent to badger you, simply out to point out the facts.

not to be smart or anything, but i would rather not argue about things and just find a solution.
 
sounds to me like ## clutch fork is bent, im having the same problem with my car wit the ACT2100. a Helpful friend from NJdsm pointed out to me something. were the slave cylinder pushes the clutch fork should be centered in that little sqaure opening the fork comes out of, if its all the way to the left side ## fork is bent causing a hard time to get into gear.

Note: when upgrading to a heavier clutch ## fork will most likely go due to the fact the stock clutch forks are very weak. They do make steel clutch forks that go for about 65-70 bucks
 
Try adjusting your clutch pedal for starters, that could be your whole problem right there, also, make sure that your clutch is bled properly, another thing to consider would be to upgrade your stock clutch line to a ss line, and it can withstand the greater pressure. Oh, and for the record, you should not need nor use an extended slave rod, if you need an extended slave rod, your clutch is not working properly.
 
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