so ive desided to step it up (again). originally I was thinking about an evoIII or some close equivilant, and now ive finally started on a general area to pick from. when I buy a new turbo, i will have the following mods done to my car, dejon tools smim, intake, upper and lower intercooler piping with gm maf on the upper intercooler pipe, johnny racecar fmic, Dejon 3 inch downpipe and cat back exhaust, slow boy racing evoiii style cast manifold, some o2 housing (haven't picked), dsmlink, aeromotive a1000 fuel pump, 10 an- fuel line from the tank to the pump, and from the pump to the aeromotive 10 an- fuel pressure regulator, fuel injector clinic's 10 an- fuel rail, 850cc(or 880cc, somewhere in that area depending on price) and a 10an- return line with 10 an- fuel filter. I might also get an act 2600 and fidanza flywheel before i get the turbocharger, but i might not, who knows. what I want is the biggest turbocharger this set up can handle, while still being streetable. what ive been looking at is the pte dual ball bearing turbochargers. specifically the 57 trim, the 60-1's, and their g35r with the Vtrim exhaust housing (i think thats what its called). any advice on which turbo i should get, or avoid with this set up will be greatly appreciated. should I go with the 57 trim? or the g35r compressor housing on a Vtrim exhaust housing? there are mentions of a built head being recomended on sbr's site (the vendor i will most likely be buying from), so take into consideration that my redline will be at 7200, and i will have no headwork done, yet.

if you use a 16g on that setup, youre support will be overkill. that setup sounds great for anything 50-60trim. plus youre going to run dsmlink, which will make worlds of difference in your ability to use that support to its fullest. id definately say get something that can use that setup to its abilities, a 16g would be a waste on that setup IMO.

i WAS planning on going to run a 255lph pump/Aero FPR/ 880's/dsmlink setup,and i was going to get a RS60T and run around 25psi with some ARP head studs and a HKS head gasket, before i decided all that on a fwd was worthless.

if you read carefully (i know my english isnt that good, which is sad since ive lived in america my whole life...) i said i ditched my plans to use a 16g long ago, but i need something to hold me over until i get to the point where i can put on something like a g42r, something i can use daily, (even though i dont plan on driving the car daily, i want something that could, if i needed it to, be driven daily) so basically im asking, at what point have i gone from bigger is better, to this is too big for a desiel out of a semi. i dont have any headwork, will this limit my choices? should i stay away from the dual ball bearing 60-1, will the 57 trim be enough? ive been using this site as a guideline for the progression of bigger turbos in the area im looking at. http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.p...80&PHPSESSID=e5cf6e98650da2e92cdffccf301d306f

race gas or pump gas?

Well how much power are you looking for, I am making 402whp with a 50 trim at 24psi. I will be adding meth injection and upping the boost and hoping for 450-475whp(honestly this is more than you would ever really need ont he street, however I just like nearly everyone else on this forum want more power so I too will be upgrading turbos. From the different setups I have seen and my experience with different turbos I would look at something like the 60-1, or maybe a gt30r or fp3065. All of these turbo I would recomend also utilizing a methonal injection system to help cool the charge and add octane to your fuel. Think of it as running race gas all the time at a fraction of the cost.

How important is spool to you and what will you be using the car for? And just like I asked above what are your power goals. Orinda isn't very far from me we should meet up some time.

With all the rave out for ball bearing, I would get a ball bearing turbo; especially since you don't have to worry about any traction problems since your AWD. If I was you I would get one of the FP30's(either 3052 or 3065) or gt35r.

Or you can pick any of the turbos you mentionedl; tuned the beast and you can have a monster ride with the mods you plan to have.

Stay boostin

well currently i have only done the intake mods and i have the money for the exhaust mods, so im somewhat far from actually buying a turbo, but my main goal is to have this car turned into a fully track prepped car one day. the turbo that i will be buying is just something that ill have on the car during college, then once i get out of college i can turn the car to a track car, (which is why im going overkill with everything now, so that i wont waste any money in the future) ive considered the fp3052, fp3062, and fp3575 (are those the right numbers?) but i thought those might be too big for what im doing, although im not sure. I guess im looking for something (pump gas btw) that can go as low as about 18 psi, but when i take it to the track, i can pump it up to 26 or something, (with race gas and proper tuning, of corse). this thread is really to just give me an idea of how people like/use different turbos in this size range. i would be greatly pleased with 450ish whp for daily driving, but honestly am expecting more of the 380-400whp range. I mainly want something that can function at that low of a level, but once i start doing other mods, (built bottom end, built head) can take it up to the 500 whp range. maybe there is no such thing, but thats why im here, to find out what there is out there.

w/ the EVO III @27psi i did 12.2
w/ the green @27psi i did 11.8
w/ the 35R @ 27psi i did 10.3

1/4 miles times of course. if your gonna redline at 7200 like you say, you might want to look into the green. but you should be fine redlining at 8000 w/ standalone.

v2ner said:

w/ the EVO III @27psi i did 12.2
w/ the green @27psi i did 11.8
w/ the 35R @ 27psi i did 10.3

1/4 miles times of course. if your gonna redline at 7200 like you say, you might want to look into the green. but you should be fine redlining at 8000 w/ standalone.

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100% agreeance. But since you have definate plans for bigger than what you're looking at now, I'd get a cheaper turbo. The green is great but a "regular" 50 trim is cheaper. The green has a 50 trim wheel mated to a td06h hot side. Cheap is not the best route, but you're going to upgrade anyway. That's my take.

Anyway, i think a 50 trim wheel is better than a 57 trim wheel anyday. I think the efficiency of the 50 trim wheel is more than worth the relatively small increase in flow potential of a 57 trim wheel.

tstkl said:

should i stay away from the dual ball bearing 60-1.

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That turbo would be fun, fun. Everywhere i heard that guys are getting full spool w/ 2.0L at 4100 rpms w/ a 60-1. So a Ball Bearing 60-1 would be great. And no nagging doublt about a 270 degree thrust bearing or whether or not your oil pump has enough pep to feed a 360 degree thrust bearing.

im not sure that im confident in taking the stock head @ high psi with a high cfm turbo to 8000 rpms.... i thought that 7200 is safe for the stock head, but not much higher. maybe im just scared, but i havent heard of anyone taking the stock head to 8000 rpms, im sure that after i get the turbo and a built bottom end, the head will come next. ive been looking at the heads from machv. they sell heads outright with upgraded valves, springs, the works. then a set of fp3s or fp3xs to go in there, with some adjustable cam wheels and a kevlar timing belt. (i know the oem timing belt is "the best", but adjustable cam gears have curved teeth, and so do kevlar timing belts. ill still change them just as regularly.)

the 60-1 is sounding good right about now, specifically this one:
http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.p...dd&PHPSESSID=9adb173f993ecc67d91b3a24897b31dd

for price, and it wouldnt require a new licp and intake pipe. (ones i have right now are 3 inches, and 2.25, since at the time that was the biggest jpipe i could buy, so the licp had to match.)

i'm pretty sure the head can take an 8K redline. as a matter of fact...the whole engine can w/ proper tuning. so far...i've done it on two daily drivers w/ no problems. they both ran that way for about a year. one was w/ a green set @27psi while the other was a 20G set @27psi also. i do agree w/ dsm-onster about a regular 50 trim...it is cheaper and is pretty much the same. i just ran the green b/c it was a hand-me-down turbo. 60-1 is a great choice too. BTW, an intake pipe isn't required on any car runnin a VPC or standalone set-up. it's not the turbo that decides if you'll need the pipe or not...and technically speaking, it's the MAS/MAF that is needed. good luck.

v2ner said:

i'm pretty sure the head can take an 8K redline. as a matter of fact...the whole engine can w/ proper tuning. so far...i've done it on two daily drivers w/ no problems. they both ran that way for about a year. one was w/ a green set @27psi while the other was a 20G set @27psi also. i do agree w/ dsm-onster about a regular 50 trim...it is cheaper and is pretty much the same. i just ran the green b/c it was a hand-me-down turbo. 60-1 is a great choice too. BTW, an intake pipe isn't required on any car runnin a VPC or standalone set-up. it's not the turbo that decides if you'll need the pipe or not...and technically speaking, it's the MAS/MAF that is needed. good luck.

Click to expand...

Go ahead and run your car w/o a filter. Me, I preffer to keep rocks, dust, and debris out of my turbo, thanks.

v2ner said:

i'm pretty sure the head can take an 8K redline. as a matter of fact...the whole engine can w/ proper tuning. so far...i've done it on two daily drivers w/ no problems. they both ran that way for about a year. one was w/ a green set @27psi while the other was a 20G set @27psi also. i do agree w/ dsm-onster about a regular 50 trim...it is cheaper and is pretty much the same. i just ran the green b/c it was a hand-me-down turbo. 60-1 is a great choice too. BTW, an intake pipe isn't required on any car runnin a VPC or standalone set-up. it's not the turbo that decides if you'll need the pipe or not...and technically speaking, it's the MAS/MAF that is needed. good luck.

Click to expand...

i like having the pipe because im going to make a cold air box, with ducting for cold air to go to the filter. and i do have my 3 inch gm maf on my uicp, so i have a straight pipe with no holes for anything. i just dont know how much the t04s compressor housing would help over the t04e, and since the t04e is easier for me, and 30 bucks less, ill just stick with that. anyone have the compressor maps or lb/min on these turbos anyways?

your intercooler is your cold air box

i have yet to have met a person that said, i dropped my intake temps by doing xyz, it hurt my performance significantly. most people say something along the lines of, "throttle response was greatly improved." and since im going to cut out a huge hole underneath the filter where the stock smic was and put a scoop (a peice of sheetmetal curved towards the air filter with screen over to prevent leaves and stuff from getting in) i dont think that any turbo will be starved of air by this set up. ill take pics once i finally get around to it, but for now i have to finish cutting my bumper, which takes forever with an angle grinder (i need to find the idiot that suggested that one and kill them....) anyone have any other suggestions besides a sawzall since i cant find anyone with one of those...

anyways, if i do go with the 60-1, which compressor housing and turbine wheel should i go with? is the stage V worth it? is the T40s worth it?

tstkl said:

i have yet to have met a person that said, i dropped my intake temps by doing xyz, it hurt my performance significantly. most people say something along the lines of, "throttle response was greatly improved."

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Yea i noticed a difference it throttle response (spool and torque). A turbo contributes the same amount of heat energy to the air it ingests. If the air is at a lower state of energy (cold), then the heat that the turbo adds to it through compression adds to that summing a lower number than if the air was originally at a higher energy state (hot air). To assume that the turbo adds MORE energy to the cold air than the hot air to make a cold air intake negledgable would mean thet the Law of the Conservation of Energy is false.

tstkl said:

anyways, if i do go with the 60-1, which compressor housing and turbine wheel should i go with? is the stage V worth it? is the T40s worth it?

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The stage V would let you reach the potential of the compresor wheel, rated at 650 whp or something insane like that. But you will suffer with spool. It is reported that a stage 3 T3 wheel on the 60-1 spools to 20 by 4100 rpms. The stage 3 should be good for over 500 whp, as has been proven by guys around here.

it looks like ill be getting the 60-1 then, anyone on this board have the pte dual ball bearing 60-1 with a stage 3 turbine wheel and mitsu turbine housing yet? (with the t40e compressor housing of course) any dyno sheets i can look at? want to learn up on this turbo before diving in, since that seems to be the best route to take for me so far.

tstkl said:

it looks like ill be getting the 60-1 then, anyone on this board have the pte dual ball bearing 60-1 with a stage 3 turbine wheel and mitsu turbine housing yet? (with the t40e compressor housing of course) any dyno sheets i can look at? want to learn up on this turbo before diving in, since that seems to be the best route to take for me so far.

Click to expand...

I just bought one. but it is still in the mail...

tstkl said:

i have yet to have met a person that said, i dropped my intake temps by doing xyz, it hurt my performance significantly. most people say something along the lines of, "throttle response was greatly improved." and since im going to cut out a huge hole underneath the filter where the stock smic was and put a scoop (a peice of sheetmetal curved towards the air filter with screen over to prevent leaves and stuff from getting in) i dont think that any turbo will be starved of air by this set up. ill take pics once i finally get around to it, but for now i have to finish cutting my bumper, which takes forever with an angle grinder (i need to find the idiot that suggested that one and kill them....) anyone have any other suggestions besides a sawzall since i cant find anyone with one of those...

anyways, if i do go with the 60-1, which compressor housing and turbine wheel should i go with? is the stage V worth it? is the T40s worth it?

Click to expand...

On the bumper cutting: Don't use a sawzall it will grab at some point and leave a nasty gouge. I would'nt use an angle die grinder (not enough power or rpms). I drew a line with a marker where I needed to cut. Then I used a straight die grinder with a cut off wheel, (you need a decent air compressor for this.) I stayed off of the marker line about 1/16" , then I used my angle die grinder with a red 2" scotch brite pad to smooth and finish up to the marker line. This came out great, but I would suggest doing it oustside as the smoke from that plastic will gag you.

If your talking about the steel bumper support, sawzall all the way. Straight die grinder with cut off wheel works good too just slower.

kanderson111 said:

On the bumper cutting: Don't use a sawzall it will grab at some point and leave a nasty gouge. I would'nt use an angle die grinder (not enough power or rpms). I drew a line with a marker where I needed to cut. Then I used a straight die grinder with a cut off wheel, (you need a decent air compressor for this.) I stayed off of the marker line about 1/16" , then I used my angle die grinder with a red 2" scotch brite pad to smooth and finish up to the marker line. This came out great, but I would suggest doing it oustside as the smoke from that plastic will gag you.

If your talking about the steel bumper support, sawzall all the way. Straight die grinder with cut off wheel works good too just slower.

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yep, talking about the metal support bumper, took a hack saw to it today for about two hours... almost half way done with one side. i got the bumper far enough back that i only need to take off the top 2 cms of it (when laying face down) and i already cut the support beams where they would hit the intercooler. it looks like im just going to angle grinder/hack saw it since i dont have a sawzall or straight die grinder. pic of the intercooler just cuz... before support beams were cut/put on, with them on you can really see how little i have to cut. its about 6 inches wide and 6 inches tall, on both sides, then i have to grind down that lip at the bottom...

dsm-onster said:

I just bought one. but it is still in the mail...

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does the rs60t have the same compressor housing and turbine wheel as the pte 60-1? i know agp or whatever the company is loves slapping on a shinny compressor housing for looks, but is it a completely different housing all together, or just a polished t40e? anyone else got this turbo, a dyno with this turbo, the flow maps of this turbo, or any knowlege on this turbo?

I just recently upgraded from an rs49 to an rs60t. I bought the rs60t just to use for about a month because my rs49 was making funny noises. I tuned my car to 31psi on stock engine on race gas and revved to about 7800 on the stock head with 272's. The 60-1 is crap on pump but on race gas and high boost it was unbelieveable. Full boost came on about 4200-4400 which isn't bad at all. I kept it a to4e cover and I was very impresssed. I only used it for about 100 miles, got it dialed in but was never able to make a full pass at the drag strip. I like the turbo, but now I'm selling it to go bigger.

BrokenTsi said:

The 60-1 is crap on pump but on race gas and high boost it was unbelieveable.

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What horsepower have you pulled out with the RS60T? Are you sure you've out grown it? Just wondering. . .

Try water injection with premium pump gas. It is known that water injection raises premium pump gas ocane levels to over 110. A water tank is easy to refill . Just a suggestion...

No, I dont think I've out grown it. But with my new setup, I can take better advantage of a different turbo. I was considereing water injection, but it looks like a pain and race gas does the same thing anyways and is a bit safer I think, maybe Im wrong.

On a stock unported head and stock intake manifold, using the 60-1 is pretty much pointless IMO, but it definiately made more hp than the 50 trim.