I decided to post this to help out any newbies that are wondering if it can be done and to help out myself by posting questions while doing the swap instead of opening more threads. First off I decided to go with this setup, yes I am using stock internals but I am running only 5 psi.

13g Turbo/Mani./o2housing/sensor
oil lines and water lines
turbo intake pipe
uicp and licp
1st gen SMIC
air to fuel gauge
boost gauge
390cc injectors
BOV and hardpipe
extra wastegate actuator
turbo downpipe
turbo oilpan
SAFC 1
EGT
Datalogger

I am getting all of these parts in a trade, that's the main reason why I decided not to sell my car and get a turbo one, look at my profile, there's not too many lasers that look that good, the engine and tranny only have 45k miles. Now, my plans are to put in 5 psi of boost into my 1st gen 4g63 engine, the 13g turbo I am using is smaller than the 14b just to be on the safe side, now my goals aren't very big, I just want noticeable boost and I fugue that will give me about 30 to 45 HP, that's just a guess so don't hate just yet. This is much less expensive than looking for parts for my naturally aspirated laser, and has a significant power gain. Some of you are wondering how I'm going to run only 5 psi when the stock actuator cant go under 7 psi, well I am going to either lengthen the actuator rod or replace the spring with a 5 psi one. so far I have about 10 out of the 12 things I need, but I will get them soon, I plan on doing this in steps, first put on the intercooler and pipes, and cut the hole for the LICP, then bolt on the 13g and downpipe and cover the intake/outlet with something but unhook the wastage actuator so the turbo doesn't spool that much. I then plan on installing an safc 1 and a EGT gauge and probe. I already have the datalogger setup so I know whats going on in the engine, well mostly, I still don't know knock but I figure I won't have to worry with 5 psi. I don't have the safc 1 yet and I was actually thinking on putting in a turbo one, might be more beneficial. I will keep this post updated regularly, Moderators feel free to move this to a different category.

hahahaha turbo oil pan? i dont know 1gs to well but theres a dif between 1gs and 2gs and turbo and non turbo. I could have sworn a 6 bolt motor and a 7 bolt motor have the same oil pan besides the dent in the 7. As far as the oil pan goes itself.....i dont think added pressure would be forced on the oil pan thanks to a turbo. Check further into that man you might have baught somthing very un-needed. But like i said i know 2gs.

Jokes on you ha ha ha, the turbo oil pan has a hole for oil return line the non turbo doesn't added pressure from the turbo? can you inform me on how the turbo pressurizes the oil? Don't post unless you understand, I have a 1g so I don't see why you knowing alot about 2g's has anything to do with my post.

Now then, I just got the turbo setup but I'm still missing a few things, I still need injectors, a t fitting for the boost gauge, EGT Gauge and probe, safc 1 or a turbo ECU. I think I'm going to use the extra wastegate actuator I have later, and replace the spring in my current one with a 4 or 5psi one, that way I can see how the engine will react and tune it, then I can put on the new wastegate actuator and run 7 psi and tune it some more. If any one has any ideas on making the actuator open the wastegate at 5 psi let me know, I'm willing to fab something up to make it work .

eldiabloz13 said:

hahahaha turbo oil pan? i dont know 1gs to well but theres a dif between 1gs and 2gs and turbo and non turbo. I could have sworn a 6 bolt motor and a 7 bolt motor have the same oil pan besides the dent in the 7. As far as the oil pan goes itself.....i dont think added pressure would be forced on the oil pan thanks to a turbo. Check further into that man you might have baught somthing very un-needed. But like i said i know 2gs.

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WAY off base. The turbo oil pan does have the oil return hole as the N/T does not. The 7 bolt pan curves down below the crank where as the 6 bolt is flat. That was simply the most unnecessary misifno you could give to a post trying to help newbies learn something.
Mike
research 1g's and 6 bolts before you post about one

jwahl425. . . I see your car is a 93 like mine. Meaning you have a 7bolt. Your absolutely right that the only difference with the n/t and turbo oil pans is the return hole for the oil. The difference between a 6bolt and 7bolt oil pan is the little lip at the end under the crank pulley(7 bolt)

I would highly recommend getting a turbo ECU only b/c it will make things easier for you to tune. Also you really should look into installing a knock sensor and your stock MAFS really isnt designed to see larger amounts of air coming into the engine. . .might possible see a CEL code when u start to boost. Gonna need a new downpipe also look for a FWD turbo downpipe. . .if u do get a AWD one like i did you'll have to cut it and use clamps or weld it to your existing exhaust.

My conversion was very sucessful. i purchased a 93 M/T AWD ECU, installed a 2g MAFS, RC 550cc injectors, knock sensor and resistor pack for the injectors(Def need a resistor pack for the larger injectors) Car fired right up. the only thing is i needed a SAFC to richen my car out. The 2g MAFS allows much more air to come in and was making me run lean. If u need any help or ne questions let me know. i've kept in touch with a bunch of people on these forums who did the conversion


Matt

Thank you Matt.
Well, I figured if I got a safc and used the stock maf then I would already be running richer and wouldn't need to tune that much, but I see what you are saying, it's probably safer to run the turbo ecu with knock sensor, safc, and a 1g/2g turbo maf. Also, I didn't think I would run into knock problems at 5 psi, but again it's probably safer. would the Turbo ECU provide the advance/pull timing function in a n/t car? just curious.

OK, so an update to my list I now have added:
Knock sensor
2G maf
turbo ecu
injector resistor pack (have)

So I still NEED:
450cc injectors (decided to upgrade)
Knock sensor and plug
2g maf (or 1g for now)
turbo ECU
Safc 1 or 2
turbo oilpan
and EGT or UEGO

If anyone has these things and would like to sell them or trade here is a link to my ad of for sale stuff, If you are interested just PM me so we don't turn this in a "want to buy" ad

http://www.dsmtuners.com/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=34049

why are you going 13g? if your getting an afc i would recomend at least a 14b or maybe even a 16g you should be fine with 7psi ecspecially if you are tuning with a pocket logger and afc , as long as u prevent detonation, i dont see why you couldnt run 10 psi

Basically if you switch from the N/T ECU to the Turbo one all you have to do is add in "2" wires to your harness. every other wire matches up regardless it being n/t or turbo.
Here is a link to the layout and difference between the n/t and turbo ECU:
http://www.ecanfix.com/~mdhamilton/1991tntecu.html

Here is the link to the forum about installing the resistor pack:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141107
(if you still don't understand i have a picture somewhere or i can whip up something for ya)

The two wires that you would be adding to your harness is the 7th wire for the MAFS, and the knock sensor wire. The knock sensor has two wires(ground and signal) The ground you can ground to the chasis of the car, and the signal you can feed through your firewall and add to your harness.

As far as the question about if the Turbo ECU will advance the timing on a n/t turbo motor. . .the answer is yes. As long as you have the Turbo ECU it will be able to advance/retard the timing. I know it doesn becausewhen i first got the car back on the road i had horrible lifter tick that caused the car to knock. I could literally feel the cars timing being pulled back.

From what i've heard you can run up to 10psi on N/T internals. Depending on the mileage of your motor i dont know if id recommend going up that high. But as long as you have a good fuel system and your watching youur trims with a logger and tuning it correctly you should be fine.

The most i've done on my car so far was like 19psi. But i rebuilt the motor and put 2g turbo pistons in and a metal head gasket, i have all the supporting mods. unfortuantely im only running 9psi now(lowest setting on a stock 14b) b/c my car was broken into and lost my SAFC and gauges. my car is running lean and i gotta be careful now

I correct myself when i say everything matches up on a N/t and Turbo ECU. If you decided to go with the Turbo ECU make sure to get a 91-94 ECU. The 1990 ECU is alittle different and some of the pins on the harness are different. Not hard to fix but its a less hastle if you just get a 91-94 ecu

Well, the reason I got a 13g is because they are cheaper, spool faster (it's ported), and are smaller than the 14b so they push LESS air, My n/t is my daily driver so I want to be careful, I already know that this could damage the engine but I am willing to take a chance. I'm going to try to tune the SAFC to where I can switch it from 5 psi on the street to 7-9 psi for racing, can this be done? have two setting that you can toggle back and forth?. I think I'll get the turbo ECU, hook up the knock sensor and SAFC, then I should be good, looks like I'll be spending more money than I thought I would but oh well, it will be worth it. I will probably dyno this car later and take it to the track if all goes well, let you guys know what a n/t can do with a turbo, please don't break please don't break please don't break

Now, for the newbes reading these posts keep this one thing in mind, there are to many variables to consider when selecting the correct PSI you should induct into the engine, don't go 13 psi just because joe shmoe SAID he did, start out small and work your way up to what you believe is safe, if you are unsure then it's best to keep it under 6 psi, I myself am not going over 9 psi until I either put in lower compression pistons or put on a multi layer steel headgasket.

here's an update on the things I have and the things I still need:

Have:

13g/Manifold/ported o2 w-sensor/Wastegate actuator set at 5 psi
Turbo downpipe
3 in. turbo intake
intercooler and piping/bov/return
cobalt boost gauge
cobalt air to fuel gauge
datalogger
extra wastegate actuator
injector resistor pack
vacuum lines
no money JK

Still looking for:

SAFC 1 or 2
390cc or 450cc injectors
turbo ecu
1g/2g turbo maf
EGT probe and gauge
knock sensor
turbo oil pan
water lines

got a part on my list? email me or PM me
[email protected]

well, I came across another n/a Eclipse today, raced him and I kicked his a** but anyway we pulled over and talked and he said he had an AWD that he was trying to fix, It starts and runs but the engine is crap, not sure what yet but I could really use the engine for injectors/turbo/etc. so, I might get the engine, use the parts I need, sell the rest and get a rebuild kit with low compression pistons, It's all sketchy now but I hope that everything falls into place, I'm selling his shell for him in the classified, $500 and $150 for the tranny, I get the engine lower compression seems to be the safest way right now, and the rebuild kit would help with the blow-by that I'm getting from my piston rings, dipstick was out 3" and oil was everywhere yesterday but that's just another reason to put something bigger and better in

is the other engine a 6 or 7bolt? If its a 7bolt you should rebuild the engine and just pop it into your car and bolt it up to your tranny with ## flywheel. i wouldn't just pull parts off of it inless its a 6bolt and it wont bolt up to your tranny.

I mean think about it. if you have another engine on the side to rebuild. . .just drive your car in the meantime, rebuild the other engine for the goals that you want and when its done drop that engine into your car. less downtime on your part atleast.

I wish you lived closer to me. id ###### invest in that shell. eventually i'll wanna play around with a AWD. For now tho my goal is to quicken up my FWD

this may just be for my own info...but what about a fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump? Is the N/T pump the same as a turbo? is the FPR also able to raise fuel pressure 1:1? Just curious

yeah, I would also like to know this^^, everytime I read a thread I always see different answers, can someone give us a for sure answer, is the turbo fuel pump different then the N/T one and how much different are the Fuel Pressure Regulators?

yes the n/t fuel pump is different then the turbo fuel pump. The n/t fuel pump will work but it wont last long. I know it doesn't last b/c there was another kid that i knew locally who did the conversion and his pump ending up dieing on him so he upgraded to the walbro 190. i've also heard from tons of other people on these forums that the n/t fuel pump doesnt have a place when you turbo the car. There are plenty of posts from TimG and Mavisky that will say it should be replaced. I ran my car for about 2 months and then upgraded to the Walbro 255HP, like $99 something off of ebay. works great. i also purchased the rewire kit a few weeks.

I dont think the turbo or n/t fuel pressure regulator actually raise 1:1 if you upgrade the fuel pump. you'll need like a aeromotive fpr to adjust the pressure. B&M only allows you to raise fuel pressure so alot of people have said its useless to use. the Aerormotive ones allow you to set it to what you want.

On another note though. . .if you are converting using the turbo 450cc injectors and the the turbo maf it would be better to keep the n/t fuel pressure regulator b/c the spring inside is allready set to a higher pressure which would richen the car out more. i only thought about this b/c Gary from Mitsubish Graveyard(Excellent DSM auto shop in New York) told me that i would have been better off using the n/t fpr when i decided to use the 2g maf. car was running lean and the higher pressure might have helped out allittle.

Just remember fuel is KEY in a turbo car

rowlex said:

this may just be for my own info...but what about a fuel pressure regulator and fuel pump? Is the N/T pump the same as a turbo? is the FPR also able to raise fuel pressure 1:1? Just curious

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The n/t pump is much smaller then the stock turbo pump and doesn't flow the same amount of fuel.

The n/t FPR rises in a 1:1 ratio and allows rail pressure to be higher. This is based on a vacuum or boost signal in the intake manifold. The fuel pump doesn't matter. I suggest everyone uses the n/t FPR in the conversion to allow for more fuel to get into the motor.

OK, looks like I will put in a stock turbo fuel pump and rewire it, and use my non turbo FPR, sounds good, now I can hopefully get those injectors, MAF, knock sensor, Turbo ECU, cams, radiator, (wider core on the turbo model) and oil cooler, the engine I mght get is a 90, all 90's have oil cooler or just some? what other parts do you guys think I should take off? by the way, it's a 6 bolt, I think I'll take just about everything but the block/tranny and transfer case I'll have a lot of extra parts on the side that way, anyone know where I can get a set of new low compression pistons and rings? maybe even a low price rebuild kit? (I think my rings are going bad, dipstick comes out 4" after 3k RPM's)

The oil cooler is def a good grab
Technically you dont need the turbo radiator. i kept the n/t one and i never have a problem with heat, its always perfect. just make sure you get a new thermostate.

i would most defenitely recommend a full gasket kit with your rebuild. Topline i know comes complete with every gasket. (including oil pump gasket)Front and Rear Seal. at the time i ordered the gold engine kit (everything, pistons and oil pump). you def ###### wanna replace the oil pump b/c u want to make sure your gonna be able to supply the engine with enough oil and your turbo.
http://importperformanceparts.net/

Thats the link to where i bought my whole engine rebuild kit. They have all different packages to fit your needs.

good choice in pistons are the 2g pistons (8.5:1) if your not gonna go with forged. You have a 93(7 bolt) so the 2g pistons will bolt right up to the rods you have. our stock compression is 9:1

You can pick up the whole set of pistons and rings from PartsDinosaur on ebay for like $159 shipped.

your dipstick is coming out b/c of the oil pressure and due to the rubber on the dipstick is getting worn out. if its popping out now. . .oh god it will def be popping out once you convert over

92DSMErdrick said:

good choice in pistons are the 2g pistons (8.5:1) if your not gonna go with forged. You have a 93(7 bolt) so the 2g pistons will bolt right up to the rods you have. our stock compression is 9:1

You can pick up the whole set of pistons and rings from PartsDinosaur on ebay for like $159 shipped.

your dipstick is coming out b/c of the oil pressure and due to the rubber on the dipstick is getting worn out. if its popping out now. . .oh god it will def be popping out once you convert over

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Well, I like that kit, I had my eyes set on this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=8016373169&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT
but it's for a 6 bolt I hink.

I've heard some bad things about topline though, but I really would like a rebuild kit, you said you got the gold set and 8.5:1 compression pistons? I want the timing belt kit too, if I'm putting all this money in rebuilding the engine, will the 93 - 94 turbo engine kit fit my 93 laser non-turbo? will the bearings seat properly? and what else should I do when I'm rebuilding the engine?
I finally got the intercooler on, had to drill a new hole because the intercooler was hitting on the bodykit support rod, but the ic and uicp with the BOV is on, I can take pics if you guys want them.

Alright, I bought the AWD, took out the cams, turbo, ic piping, intake, ECU, injectors, battery and FPR. Then I sold the car for more than I paid for it and also got a 13g turbo for free with no shaft play, spins free, the 13g I have doesn't spin that free and the guy said it was rebuilt? oh well, any how here are the pictures of the stuff I've acquired and a couple of the ic and BOV on my RS, what's the next step you guys think I should take?
Pic 1---> rebuilt 13g and downpipe
Pic 2---> ic piping and intake
Pic 3---> 90 non eprom ECU
Pic 4---> BOV installed
Pic 5---> blown 14b
Pic 6---> rebuilt 13 again (I poished it with some sandpaper )
Pic 7---> ugly intercooler resized (holds PSI though)
Pic 8---> 13g (spins better then the rebuilt, why?)
Pic 9---> other parts I have some for the conversion
Pic 10---> engine bay before turbo bling bling

jwahl425 said:

Well, I like that kit, I had my eyes set on this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=8016373169&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT
but it's for a 6 bolt I hink.

I've heard some bad things about topline though, but I really would like a rebuild kit, you said you got the gold set and 8.5:1 compression pistons? I want the timing belt kit too, if I'm putting all this money in rebuilding the engine, will the 93 - 94 turbo engine kit fit my 93 laser non-turbo? will the bearings seat properly? and what else should I do when I'm rebuilding the engine?
I finally got the intercooler on, had to drill a new hole because the intercooler was hitting on the bodykit support rod, but the ic and uicp with the BOV is on, I can take pics if you guys want them.

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Yea that link is for a 6bolt (90-92) so it wouldnt do too much for you
I would beleive that the kit for the 93-94 turbo should fit the n/t motor. you technically could put the pistons that come in the kit onto your rods 7.8:1 compression. all the seals and gaskets should be the same.

Yea i bought the rebuild kit for 93-94 N/T. i sold the n/t pistons for like $50 on ebay and used the 2g pistons instead. the reuild kit comes with the timing belts. i also purchased all new idler pulleys for the timing belt sepreately for like $50 something off of ebay brand new. the only think i didnt replace which i should have was the the actual tensioner. im gonna replace that next spring when i do cams

what support rod were u talking about that you cut?? the sidemount bolted right up in my car with no problems at all, all holes and stuff were there too.

I did the conversion on my 90 eclipse. Everything went very smooth until i got to the oil pan. I bought a used turbo oil pan, but when i went to blot it up, i found that the hole in the baffle inside the turbo pan was much smaller than the screen at the end of the oil pick up tube.

Here i had 2 options.

1: cut the hole larger so the oil pickup would fit thru, or
2: since i wasn't using the piece of crap stock drain tube (had 2 billet oil dran flanges to make my own drain), i could just drill 3 holes (2 for the bolts and one for the drain) in the NT pan and call it a day.

I chose #2 and sold the turbo pan for a profit

Since i chose #2, i just mounted the drain flange to the pan before installing it on the car and used lock nuts and lock tite (didn't want the nuts vibrating off) to keep the flange on.

Haven't heard of anyone else having this issue, but just thought i would throw this out there since it is always a possibility.

92DSMErdrick said:

what support rod were u talking about that you cut?? the sidemount bolted right up in my car with no problems at all, all holes and stuff were there too.

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my car has a dragon z bodykit, I made two supports for the front bumper to hold it in place better, the IC was hitting it so I tilted it a bit and drilled another hole

so what do you guys think about the turbo? how hard is it to change the turbo seals on the one that burns oil? I really can't wait to get thing boosting, my friend just bought a 91 AWD and I drove it today, once you get the feel of boost you never stop craving more!
I deided to use the half oil drain tube I got (broke when i took out the turbo) and hook a line from it to a threaded bolt that I would screw into the oilpan with a lttle lock-tite. I then will probably use the throttle body coolant lnes for the turbo, just hook in a longer hose for feed, and a longer hoe for return.

Alright, I'm back into buissiness turboing my 93 laser 2.0 DOHC, opened the thread in the newbie section to get more exposure, here's the link:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=208112

James.